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Fans of gyumotsu nikomi can choose three different varieties of stew at this popular specialty izakaya. The soy sauce-based version probably best shows off the individual flavors of the various organ meats, while the miso and extra-spicy miso versions will satisfy those who like a richer, deeper sauce.
The very tender braised beef tongue is also highly recommended, and it's definitely worthwhile to explore the selection of charcoal-grilled beef, beef parts and vegetables. There are two or three premium sake that nicely complement the rich nikomi and charcoaly flavors. Budget around Y2500 for dinner with drinks.
This after-work standing bar serves up excellent charcoal-grilled skewers of pork and chicken plus cheap drinks in an extremely casual setting. The ceiling is festooned with paper lanterns advertising beer and liquor brands.
Patrons - mostly Shimbashi office workers stopping in for a drink on the way home - can stand at upturned barrels, communal tables or a long counter in front of the grill. There's also some outdoor standing room, which may be somewhat less smoky depending on your luck.
As the shop name indicates, the main specialty here is yakiton - grilled pork on skewers, some fourteen varieties in all starting at around Y100. The Japanese menu has a neatly illustrated chart explaining where the various cuts of meat come from. Some favorites were the charcoal-infused tontoro (neck and shoulder meat) and harami (tender diaphram meat), plus very nice tebasaki (chicken wings) from the smaller yakitori side of the menu.
For starters, big crisp chunks of cucumber in salt will fill your vegetable quota for the day. The smooth and rich pork organ-meat stew (motsu-nikomi) has a miso base, but a subtle one - the overall flavor is more porky than miso-heavy. There are six different sake - three cold and three served at room temperature, although only the cold ones are listed on the English menu.
Budget around Y1200-2500 for food and drink, depending on how long you stay. There are several other branches scattered throughout Tokyo, but this main branch seems to have the best reputation for food.
Shibuya's Niku Yokocho (Meat Alley) is a collection of more than twenty tiny drinking spots, all of them featuring meat-centered cuisine, cheap alcohol, minimal decor and a very casual atmosphere. This is one of liveliest places in Tokyo for a carnivorous adventure, but perhaps the best starting point here is at the relatively placid Niku Ten no Kuni, which offers meat-based sushi and other creative dishes.
The first thing that attracted our attention was a dish called "uniku." It's a sushi-sized mound of rice wrapped in grilled beef and topped with fresh sea urchin, an odd mix of assertive flavors that work well together. The menu also offers assorted sushi platters featuring various meaty morsels served nigiri-zushi style. Sushi highlights include tender sasami chicken breast seasoned with a smoky plum sauce and excellent grilled pork belly (tontoro) with chives.
Tempura-fried meats are another specialty of the house, and our favorite of these was a Korean-style pork served with lettuce and a spicy dipping sauce. There's also a good assortment of drink-friendly small dishes such as ume-avocado, an appealing combination of ripe avocado with sour plum paste and toasted nori strips.
Libations include budget shochu-based cocktails, one or two good sake, and the usual draft beer. Budget around Y2500-3500 for ample food and drink.
There is a ramen shop in Japan called Jiro (not to be confused with the famous sushi shop of a similar name). Jiro features thick, wheaty noodles in a mega-porky soup. Add to that copious amounts of garlic, top with a mountain of bean sprouts, drizzle the whole thing with pork back fat, and you have the base of a bowl of Jiro ramen. There are other factors, but essentially this is a bowl that is tough to finish, and you'll smell like it for the next twelve hours.
Jiro has spawned many Jiro-style shops. One of the best is Senrigan. The soup is intense, but drinkable. The chashu is thick-cut, but tender. The toppings are plentiful, with raw garlic, back fat, spicy crisped rice, and the standard bean sprout pile all coming into play. Don't go for anything more than the normal ramen (Y730) here. Larger sizes of noodles or bowls with more pork are on the menu, but should only be attempted by a seasoned Jiro fan.
It should be noted that at any Jiro-style shop, you will be asked "Ninniku hairimasu ka?" Basically, "You want garlic in that?" This is code for you to tell them how much of each topping you want. Many shops will get upset if you don't have an answer, so just remember to say "futsu." This will get you regular amounts of all the toppings, the best choice for a first timer.
This popular take-out shop is run by Imahan, the century-old sukiyaki and shabu-shabu restaurant, and is located across the alleyway from their flagship restaurant. While a sukiyaki dinner at the restaurant might run you Y5000, here you can grab some take-out sukiyaki-filled croquettes for just Y173, and sukiyaki nikuman (Chinese pork buns) for Y626.
There's a whole range of deep-fried fare for your dining pleasure - chicken karaage, corn-cream croquettes, lotus root stuffed with ground pork, and deep-fried oysters, prawns, squid and mackerel. They also sell premium-brand roast pork and a variety of salad-type dishes. Party-ready hors d'oeuvre platters are Y3240 for a 3-4 person party.
Super-fresh seafood from the Noto Peninsula, north of Kanazawa, is the specialty at Notomi. To go with the seafood, there's a decent selection of a dozen or so well-known sake from around the country, plus three or four special labels from Ishikawa Prefecture. Everything from the down-home decor to the no-frills menu has the feel of a seaside izakaya that's been transported to the big city.
The focus of the kitchen is on the quality and freshness of the fish rather than fancy cooking techniques or creative recipes. Sashimi platters of three, five or seven types of seafood are a reliable starter, and tempura-fried oysters are worth a try when in season. Many individual fish and shellfish items are ready to grill on a gas burner at your table.
There are also plenty of nabe stews, braised nikomi items, fried dishes and even sushi, with lots of daily specials. Budget around Y4000-5000 for food and drink.
Singapore-style laksa spicy noodle soup starts at Y500 at this fast-food shop, with your choice of short or long noodles and four levels of hotness. The flavor is rich, shrimpy and quite spicy, even at the regular hotness setting.
Extra toppings, priced at Y100 each, include cheese, tomato and hard-boiled eggs, and there's also a set meal option which includes chicken with rice and a soft drink to go with your noodles. The setting is quite informal, with just four seats in the main part of the shop and a few benches in the semi-enclosed front section, which is furnished with space heaters and blankets.
Located just a minute or two from Ikebukuro station, this bustling izakaya is an easy stop for a quick bite and a drink on the way home, and the crowded ground-floor counter is full of solo diners as well as groups. Unlike most yakiton shops, they also have a take-out window in front where you can pick up skewers of grilled pork to go.
You'll be asked for your drink order as soon as you sit down; ask for oolong tea ('uroncha') if you don't feel like having a beer or a shochu cocktail. The grill menu (Japanese only) lists some eleven cuts of pork, five cuts of chicken, and four grilled vegetables, as well as plenty of side dishes. There's a chalkboard (also in Japanese only) with daily specials, including some fish and seafood.
The excellent pork karubi (short ribs) and kashira (pork cheeks) are both quite meaty, with subtle charcoal flavoring, while the liver is tender. The motsu nikomi here has a mild, almost creamy broth, allowing the individual organ-meat flavors to stand out. Note that there's a minimum order of two skewers for any particular grilled item.
Seating at the counter can be tight during busy times, but customers tend to come and go quickly. Budget around Y2000-3000 for ample food and drink. This is the first Tokyo branch of a small Saitama-based izakaya chain.
You'll find spicy ramen on many shop's menus. This usually means they take their normal bowl, throw in some chili peppers, and call it a day. Many of these bowls are just hot, with very little in terms of complexity. Only a few shops really focus on balancing spice with other flavors to create an amazing bowl of ramen. Kikanbo goes beyond the call of duty with their spicy miso ramen.
The bowl of karashibi ramen (Y800) comes with a choice: how much hot spice, and how much numbing spice. The shop's hot spice should be approached with caution. Made with a blend of spices from around the world, the regular level is probably the best to start with. Higher levels should only be attempted by true spice fans. Kikanbo is heavy on the sansho, Chinese numbing peppercorn. This second spice blend is bitter and numbing. For first timers, when asked about the spice intensity they prefer, a simple futsu futsu - regular for both - is a good idea.
All that spice sits atop a miso soup, blended with house-made sansho oil and a heavy soup. Fans of stewed pork might consider getting the extra pork topping (Y200) for a large slab of stewed pork belly that melts into the bowl.
There's an impressive selection of craft sake to try out at this stylish izakaya, and you can put together your own tasting flights quite easily and economically, as small 60ml glasses are priced at just Y380. Grilled meats and other sake-friendly fare are skillfully prepared; we enjoyed some excellent thick-cut bacon and good grilled asparagus and mushrooms during a recent visit. Budget around Y3000-4000 per person for ample food and drink, including the Y400 table charge.
The cuisine of Yamagata Prefecture is the specialty at this stylish upscale izakaya, along with a nice selection of local craft sake. A dozen or so special sakes of the day are featured on the blackboard, or you can ask the staff for suggestions.
The food menu features creative and original dishes that use local Yamagata ingredients, such as the excellent roast tandoori chicken marinated in sake lees (Y1050) and the konyaku sashimi with gorgonzola and walnuts. A laver and tomato salad with vinegared miso and mustard dressing is a good starter and goes well with sake.
Local Yonezawa beef is served in several variations, including A5-grade steaks with mashed potatoes (Y2700). In addition to sake, drinks include a selection of fruit liqueurs and non-alcoholic fruit juices. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime.
This charming neighborhood shop serves takoyaki, akashiyaki, octopus okonomiyaki pancakes, and kakigori shaved-ice desserts. The takoyaki iss a fairly orthodox version, studded with big, tasty chunks of octopus in a gooey filling. It's served on its own or in a snack called takosen, which is two takoyaki balls in a crunchy shrimp-cracker sandwich.
The egg-based akashiyaki dumplings come plain or in a version that incorporates fresh-tasting leek alongside the octopus. During the day, the plump kakigori shaved-ice balls seem to be the biggest draw. These come in interesting variations like avocado-milk and strawberry-pistachio, with an ever-changing roster of flavors.
Tokushima, a major city on Japan's smallest major island of Shikoku, is home to one of the most famous local styles of ramen. The signature points are a heavy, porky soup flavored with soy sauce and topped with a sliced pork stir fry and a raw egg. A few shops have made the 600km journey from Tokushima to Tokyo, and JAC is one of them.
JAC is actually more of a Tokushima-inspired bowl. Sure, the fried pork and raw egg are there, but the soup is a little more refined, blending chicken and pork to give a more mellow taste. Their deluxe bowl (JAC Soba Y900) is worth it; a bit more fried pork and an extra half-cooked egg make for a satisfying slurp.
A branch of the huge Kimijimaya liquor shop in Yokohama, this Ginza outpost offers a good selection of sake and runs an informal standing bar corner as well. Fourteen types of sake range from Y300-900 for a small tasting-size glass, or you can try your luck with the pre-selected three-part tasting flight.
If you're not in a sake mood, there are shochu, wine and beer options, and several tiny snacks like smoked duck (Y600) and takoyaki (Y500). This is one of several standing sake bars in the immediate neighborhood, and just a minute from the Kochi antenna shop's basement sake-tasting counter.
This tiny, nine-seat counter shop just may serve the best deep-fried beef cutlet in Tokyo. The meat is beautifully marbled, encased in a thin, softly crunchy coating and quite tasty with just a bit of grated rock salt. Do try the onion sauce though - this is also one of our favorites in town, assertively pungent with a bit of peppery kick to it.
The spicy pickles are also outstanding, although we wish there were more of them. We'd recommend the teishoku set with a double order of meat (260g; Y1900), although they also sell triple and quadruple meat options. Grated yam is an extra Y100 if you like that sort of thing. Menus are in English and Korean, and there's a detailed instruction sheet on how to eat.
Indulge yourself with a big tray of fresh uni or ikura to accompany your favorite sake at this cozy little izakaya. If you're not in the mood for a whole box of uni (Y2980) there are delicate small dishes like uni with fresh yuba, and ikura with sour cream and olive oil. Chewy charcoal-grilled ray fins and crunchy, toasted eel bones also make excellent sake snacks.
The sake selection includes eleven limited-edition seasonal labels from small breweries as well as a dozen or so well-known craft sake available year-round. The comfortable interior features a wide counter as well as table seating, with dried fish skeletons adorning the walls and sixties jazz playing in the background. Budget around Y3000-4500 for food and drink at dinnertime.
A pioneer of Tokyo's gourmet hamburger scene, this charmingly rustic little shop offers more than a dozen burgers to choose from, with variations like apple-mozzarella, mushroom-mozzarella and coriander-avocado-tomato guacamole. The hamburger meat is juicy, bacon (when you order it) is properly crisp, and relish and other condiments are restrained.
Burgers start at Y1069, and come with a side order of fries; other sides include deep-fried octopus, fried mozzarella and onion rings. They also offer seven sandwiches, including pastrami, tuna and tuna melt, all served on griddle-toasted wheat-germ walnut bread.
Ramen is often thought of as a manly food in Japan. Dirty shops with an air thick with oil fumes would have most pretty ladies heading to the local cafe for lunch instead. In recent years, a few chefs have designed not only their ramen, but their shops as well around the concept of accessibility and appeal for everyone. When Soranoiro opened it was immediately embraced by both men and women for its healthier options and its light, airy atmosphere.
The ticket machine is very easy to use; the upper row is four giant pictures. For traditionalists, go with the special chukasoba (Y990), a simple shoyu bowl that goes above and beyond with their choice of ingredients. Free-range local chicken from Kumamoto and small-batch soy sauce from Nagano are a couple of the premium bits that give this ramen a clean, refreshing taste.
But the one that really garnered attention was the special veggie soba (Y1000). The soup is a thick pottage of carrots, cabbage, onions, and other vegetables. The special version comes topped with even more veggies and a perfectly cooked egg. A very healthy-feeling bowl. It is not, however, a vegetarian bowl (some of the tare seasoning has animal products).
They also have an outlet at the Tokyo Ramen Street in Tokyo Station.
Located inside the Hiroshima Prefecture antenna shop, Sanshou serves Hiroshima's most famous foods, okonomiyaki and oysters, and offers a nice selection of local premium sake and shochu to wash it down. If you've got a good appetite, the Special Sansho Okonomiyaki (Y1660) is the way to go - it's packed with plenty of shrimp and squid, pork, vegetables and ramen noodles, and topped with two juicy fried oysters.
If you sit at the counter you can watch the rather complicated assembly process step by step - it's quite impressive. The finished product is nicely balanced in flavor and texture, from the thin layer of fried egg on top to the lightly charred bits of squid and the partially crunchy noodles.
You can fine-tune the experience with tangy sauce, spicy mayonnaise, red pepper, black pepper and garlic powder that are on the counter, or order toasted garlic chips as an optional topping.
As is typical for an okonomiyaki shop, there's also a selection of other items from the teppan grill - bacon-asparagus stir-fry, pork-kimchee, squid tentacles, moyashi (bean sprouts), steaks and several oyster dishes.
It's like a party in a chemistry lab every night at Science Bar Incubator. Drinks are served in beakers and erlenmeyer flasks, food is heated on wire-mesh stands over alcohol lamps, and customers can change into white lab coats for the duration of their visit. A tasting flight of red wine in a test-tube rack makes a cute photo op, as does the biology-lab microscope that's set up at one end of the bar.
Incubator's Y500 cover charge includes a snack (we were served several figs in a big test tube) and optional use of a lab coat. After that drinks are priced fairly normally - for example wine by the glass starts at Y750 and a 300ml Pyrex beaker of beer is Y900. The food menu features items like oysters, tofu and tomato salad with avocado oil, and cheese fondue heated over a lamp.
British-style meat pies and dessert pies are prepared by genuine English chefs at this cozy British deli and bakery. They also sell an appealing range of house-made relishes with flavors like peach-eggplant chutney, caramalised onion jam and sweetcorn relish.
The shop is only open Monday through Friday, but you can often find them at Farmers Markets around town on the weekend.
The all-pork Hamburg steak here is made from premium Iwanaka pork from Iwate prefecture, and it's remarkably tasty - a revelation in how good this simple dish can get. The ground meat is a mix of four different cuts - shoulder, skirt steak, belly and cheek - resulting in an ideal balance of flavors and fat content. The patties are quite thick and almost lozenge-shaped, cooked to a juicy medium-rare consistency with slight grill-charring on the surface.
Steaks are served with a choice of sauce - demi-glace, yuzu-kosho or creamy mustard - but the meat is so juicy and flavorful that the sauce seems superfluous. At lunchtime plain Hamburg steaks start at Y1000, while variations such as black pepper, mozzarella, pancetta and foie gras run a bit more. The mozzarella works quite well as a filling - the mild cheese enhances the flavor of the meat without competing with it.
Lunch comes with a nice cup of cabbage-tomato soup, and for an extra Y380 the set menu includes salad and coffee or tea. The salad dressing incorporates various fruit juices and the salad itself has bits of sausage hidden among the greens. Coffee comes with real cream. Other drink options include fruit juices, ginger-infused vinegar drink, and home-made fruit wines.
In general the gyoza dumplings at this small specialty shop are flavored with more Chinese-tasting mix of spices and ingredients than is typical for Tokyo gyoza. The namesake Pairon ("white dragon") gyoza here are small and lozenge-shaped, with a sweetish, slightly mushy filling and a hint of cinnamon in the chewy skin. The thin, rectangular shiso gyoza have a firmer, very savory pork filling and big shiso leaves.
There are several other gyoza variations, plus dim sum dishes like daikon mochi and shrimp with mayonnaise. The a la carte menu is more limited at lunchtime, but you can order lunch specials that include rice and soup and side dishes alongside your gyoza.
Charcoal-grilled skewers of pork and chicken are the main draw at this very informal after-work drinking spot, along with some decent sake and quite a bit of shochu. While there's some tatami seating upstairs, it's mainly a standing bar, well suited to dropping in for a quick drink and snack on your way home or to another bar.
Prices are very budget-friendly, with pork skewers starting at just Y100, and good value for money, although a few of the meat items may have been a bit more chewy than average. The kalbi (rib meat) and harami (tender diaphram meat) were our favorites from the skewered-pork list, and the grilled scallops and chicken tsukune (minced chicken meatball) were also quite satisfying and nicely infused with charcoal flavors from grilling.
Pork motsu nikomi (Y290) is an excellent way to start things off while you're waiting for your meat to grill. The various organ meats are all distinctively flavored, interspersed with tasty chunks of daikon radish that have soaked up the rich broth. Overall the flavors are softer and gentler than a typical nikomi, and a good match for most drinks. The sake list is small, and focused on reliable labels like Kubota Senshu (Y590 a glass).
There are standing bars both indoor the shop and out in front, and there's a second branch with an identical menu right next door in case there's no room here. Budget around Y2000 for food and drink.
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