The funky basement space and sixties-jazz soundtrack give this cozy little izakaya the relaxed atmosphere of a neighborhood drinking spot. The food menu offers good, solid fare - down-to-earth rather than fancy, and especially strong in daily fish specials, seasonal vegetables and grilled pork dishes.

The main reason to come here, though, is the impressive sake list - several dozen labels from small regional breweries, often including multiple varieties from the same brewery. Sake is served either in 1-go tokkuri or by the 100ml glass, so you can put together your own tasting flights and sample a good assortment of brews over the course of an evening.

In addition to the regular sake menu there's a page of seasonal, limited-edition specials, a small but respectable shochu list, and an intriguing display of colorful fruit liqueurs in glass jars. At lunchtime Zaian draws in the crowds with their famous spicy udon noodle dish, Shisen Tantanmen, which has been featured in numerous magazines. Budget around Y4000-5000 in the evening for ample food and drink; cash only.

The Egyptian fare at this tiny deli-style shop is tasty and impressively inexpensive. Well-seasoned mutton and chicken-spinach curries run Y500-600, and come with rice or pita bread. Chicken and lamb shawarma sandwiches (Y500) make a nice take-out snack along with simple but delectable side dishes like tabouli salad and fuul (mashed fava beans with peppers, olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic).

Keeping with Cairo tradition, the falafel here is also prepared with fava beans rather than chickpeas. The shop has four small tables, but many customers opt for take-out.

Run by a New Zealand meat company, Wakanui was set up to introduce Tokyo gourmets to premium beef, lamb and wines from New Zealand, and they succeed quite admirably at that mission. The dining room is attractive but not overly fussy, with an open kitchen and a glass-enclosed aging room at one end to literally showcase the beef. The off-the-beaten-track location was chosen for its proximity to Nissin, an international market where patrons can pick up the same meats and wines that are served here and bring them home.

The beef is all from pasture-raised Black Angus cattle and is dry-aged on the premises. Both beef and lamb are grilled over Binchotan charcoal, and the results are succulent and very flavorful. The one-kilogram Ocean Beef Bone-in Ribeye (Y8800) makes an imposing centerpiece for a table of three or four diners; other mains include a 350g ribeye cut (Y3800) and a half or full rack of Canterbury Lamb (Y2100/3900). Among the starters our favorite is probably the intensely smoky Hot Smoked New Zealand King Salmon (Y1600). Side vegetable dishes like sauteed mushrooms average around Y650.

The wine list offers forty labels, mostly from small boutique vineyards and priced from Y4500. The lunch menu starts at Y1280 and includes burgers, meatballs, grilled lamb and veal, with a Y2100 multi-course prix-fixe option.

This casual bistro offers value-priced wines and meaty Mediterranean snacks late into the night. The spacious basement dining room has a warm feel to it - heavy on the wood and brick, with floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with wine bottles surrounding the tables.

Some fifty wines are available by the bottle, starting at just Y2500, with twelve poured by the glass. The food menu offers simple but satisfying fare like pork rillettes, assorted hams, country-style cassoulets, and tapas favorites like garlic-sauteed shrimp and mushrooms.

Billing itself as a traditional Texas smokehouse, White Smoke offers a good selection of Texas barbecue-style dishes - beef brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, turkey breast, pork chops, chicken and burgers. Owner-pitmaster Craig White was born in Texas, and learned his craft at Louie Mueller's BBQ in Taylor, Texas. A former engineer, he designed for himself a serious, 1.8-ton upright smoker that was custom-built in the US and shipped to Tokyo.

The premium-quality meats used here are all sourced from the US, and are cooked in a traditional "low and slow" style for up to fifteen hours. The slow cooking approach results in very tender and juicy meats - the brisket in particular is a favorite. Meats are complemented by a smoky, tomato-based barbecue sauce that's mild enough not to overpower the individual meat flavors.

The menu's side dishes, while traditionally inspired, are much fancier than what you'd find in a Texas BBQ joint. The cole slaw features diced apples, poppy seeds and a hint of anise, while the flaky, lard-infused buttermilk biscuits are served with a delicious molasses butter. Other side options include five mushrooms sauteed with a five-peppercorn mix; roast shallots with watercress; and a very tasty version of that old standby, pork and beans.

The wine list offers several good choices in the Y4000-7000 range, plus some special bottles for celebratory occasions. There are ten wines by the glass, plus a couple of excellent US microbrews from legendary breweries like Bear Republic and Southern Tier. The upstairs main dining room is spacious and comfortable; next to it is a small private dining room, and downstairs is the open kitchen area, flanked by a twelve-seat counter. Budget around Y5000-6000 for dinner with a few drinks; lunches start in the Y1000 range.

A change of pace from the down-home Korean restaurants and boisterous makkoli bars surrounding it, Festina Lente has ambitions to be a proper cocktail bar. The barman operates his shaker with just the right degree of vigor, and he understands the importance of pre-icing your glass before the pour. On the downside, a very simple drink might take five minutes to arrive even when it's not busy.

Along with standard and exotic cocktails you'll find Belgian beers and some nice Japanese sake on the menu, along with a basic food menu. The atmosphere is quite chilled-out, and you can relax late into the night if you're so inclined, as they don't close until four or five. In keeping with neighborhood customs, the background music is K-pop shown on a big-screen TV.