The cooking at Old Thailand is a few levels up from your typical Tokyo Thai joint, and everything smells really good, even in the elevator on the way up from the street. In addition to the festively decorated dining room, there's a nice wrap-around outdoor terrace looking out over busy Ichigaya from the third floor. The soundtrack is a lively mix of upbeat Thai pop and mellow ballads.

The kitchen here isn't shy about robust flavors - our stir-fried water spinach was very, very garlicky, as were the plump prawns. Spicy papaya salad was very spicy, and sour soup was properly sour. Spring rolls were fresh-tasting, and our green curry was full of rich, ripe avocado balancing the tasty shrimp.

At lunchtime the menu offers around eight main dishes; these are accompanied by spring rolls and soup for a good balance of flavors. Drinks include fruity cocktails, fruit juices and exotic teas as well as the usual beer and wine. Budget around Y4000 for dinner with drinks, or Y1000-1200 at lunchtime.