Organic grocer Daichi wo Mamoru Kai supplies this smart Japanese bistro with organic fish and meat, pesticide-free produce, and even organic alcohol.

Lunch (Y900 - ) is a great value here. A fillet of grilled mackerel himono - fish that's been gutted, salted and then dried overnight - is juicy and rich in umami, and comes with an assortment of small side dishes such as soy-simmered potatoes, savory pickled greens tossed with chirimen baby sardines and smoky dashi-steeped spinach. One of the highlights is the free-range short horn beef croquette, a golf-sized ball of tender but lean minced beef mixed with Japanese leeks and fried.