Pizza Strada's hulking, riveted-metal pizza oven is a steampunk work of art. It sits just behind the main counter area, allowing the chef to chat with customers while preparing their pizzas. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, with efficient but friendly service.

Strada's pizzas are first-rate, and have won international recognition from overseas pizza critics who judge such things. More than two dozen varieties range from the traditional (four cheese) to original creations (minced wagyu beef with red cheddar, Pecorino, red onions, mushrooms and jalapenos). Crusts are satisfyingly chewy, and toppings are assembled from premium ingredients. You can also fine-tune your ingredients, and add chili oil and red-pepper flakes to spice things up.

Starters include meat and cheese platters, half a dozen salads, and cold dishes like Marinated Five Mushrooms and Prosciutto Mousse Bruschetta. Among desserts, the hand-made Almond & Pistachio Semifreddo is a real standout and is highly recommended.

If you're in the mood for a bottle of wine there are a couple dozen to choose from, plus seven wines poured by the glass. Wines are mainly Italian and French but with a few from Germany, California and Japan. Bottles start at around Y5,000 and glasses at under Y1,000. There's also a page of extra-special splurge wines, mostly in the Y30,000-50,000 range, for when you want an extra-special splurge.

In addition to the comfortable, lively main dining room there's also a big outdoor terrace, with slightly earlier hours. Lunch is served only on weekends and holidays, but the restaurant is open all afternoon on those days.