Craft sake from small, often obscure, breweries in Nagano Prefecture and elsewhere is the focus at this popular sake specialty bar. Servings are in small-size glasses and sharing is encouraged, so you can try several different types over the course of a meal and compare notes. The staff will be happy to make recommendations (in Japanese), or you can order from the detailed list.

Food here tilted heavily toward sake-friendly items, such as the six kinds of yaki-miso (we were especially taken by the grilled garlic miso) and a very tasty miso-marinated griilled pork. There are also some very nice salads and a handful of grilled fish and sashimi items. Our grilled ray was sweeter and more tender than average, but still had a pleasant crunch.

Seating is at small horikotatsu or at the small counter; there's also one window booth, where smoking is allowed. The elevator opens onto Tokyo's tiniest genkan, where you're meant to take off your shoes, so large groups might take awhile to enter and exit. Budget around Y2500-3500 for a few rounds of sake and snacks, more for a full evening.