Muy's dramatically lit bar is an impressive sight, stretching half a city block and offering a stunning nighttime view. It's a comfortable spot to drop in on for a full meal or just a round of drinks and snacks. The atmosphere is lively but not too noisy to impede conversation, and prices are quite reasonable.

The kitchen turns out a broad variety of casual tapas-style dishes, plus grilled meats, paella and fideua (Catalan paella made with pasta instead of rice). It's tempting to put together a meal just from the tapas menu - portions are big enough to share, and everthing we've tried has been top-notch.

Muy's ceviche is a citrus-marinated fish of the day served with tomatoes, onions and fresh greens, and it makes a light and refreshing starter. The Bikini toasted sandwich is another solid choice, stuffed with a mix of sobrasada (spreadable pork sausage) and mozzarella.

Among the numerous vegetable dishes on offer the Catalan-style sauteed spinach is a standout, with a generous helping of garlic complemented by fresh-tasting pine nuts and raisins. The Calamares Fritto is a bowl full of tender fried squid rings and peppers, livened up by a thick garlic and squid ink allioli sauce.

Madrid-style Callos is a deeply flavored, very meaty stew of chickpeas and soft, tender chunks of tripe. And of course this wouldn't be a Spanish bar without ham. Four different varieties of Iberico ham are served either individually or as part of a combo ham and sausage platter.

The wine list is fairly extensive, with a good selection of bottles in the Y5,000-12,000 range and several super-deluxe bottles priced at over Y100,000. There are seven or eight wines by the glass (starting at around Y1,000), five sherries by the glass, and various liqueurs and Spanish beers.

Counter seating is quite comfortable here, and since the counter is so massive the seats are well spaced. At the far end is a small dining room with tables for parties of three or more. Reservations are recommended.