As we consumed the amazingly beautiful food served in this Higashi-Chaya restaurant, we imagined our spoon as a wrecking ball. Digging into our second course, served in a highball glass, first we destroyed a colorful tower of salmon roe, rosebuds and root-vegetable ribbons, then plunged through a layer of cool, creamy salmon mousse before reaching shirako and sea vegetables enveloped in gelee.

While the presentation might appear fussy, the flavors are delicate, fresh and exciting, as local Japanese ingredients are given a modern European twist. The mix of textures and colors adds to the enjoyment of the meal, as does the lovely setting - a traditional old wooden teahouse. Prix-fixe lunches are priced Y4,500-8,400, and dinners are Y7,800-21,000.