American-style sushi comes to Tokyo at this Sangenjaya branch of the Brooklyn-based Taro Sushi. If you're wondering about this distinctively American cuisine, it's broadly based on Japanese sushi, but incorporates ingredients like soft-shell crab, Alaska salmon and avocado, often livened up by spicy sauces.

Uramaki-zushi, the so-called inside-out roll, is a popular serving style, with fun names like Dragon Roll and Rainbow Roll. Taro offers a choice of around twenty different rolls, plus a good selection of vegetable and seafood tempura - an unusual dish to find in a Tokyo sushi restaurant, but quite commonplace in America.

We tried the Spicy Tuna Roll, which is much spicier than you might expect, and the Spicy Alaska Roll, which is nicely balanced with crisp cucumber and soft, ripe avocado complementing the salmon. The salmon-cream cheese tempura is also an inspired combination, and not at all oily.

The cozy dining room is furnished with a handful of small tables and a couple of counter stools, with a soundtrack of seventies and eighties American pop music playing in the background. Drinks include plum wine - a US sushi bar standby - and Shichida sake (from Saga) as well as cocktails. Prices are very reasonable, with most rolls priced between Y450-800 and tempura starting at Y100 per piece.