This section covers the range from fancy cocktail bars to trendy DJ bars and comfortable neighborhood hangouts, with an emphasis on places where you can relax and unwind.
Stylish cocktail bars
At (Nishi-Shinjuku) 3342-1045
Very stylish, with a terrific view from the 49th floor of the Sumitomo Building, this modern izakaya serves an array of creative tapas, some (panko and Parmesan crusted chicken with a balsamic reduction) more successful than others (paella Valenciana flavored arancini). Tapas dishes start at Y300; budget around Y3000-4000 for a full meal with drinks.
Perched on the 52nd floor of the Park Hyatt hotel, the New York Bar makes good on its promise to offer the best view of Tokyo. The interior is a sleek haven of glass and dark wood enlivened by two vibrant Art Deco-inspired paintings on opposite walls. With its ebony chairs and walnut floors, the atmosphere is one of understated sophistication - there's nothing to detract from the stunning cityscape. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Enjoy chic cocktails in a bamboo grove high in the sky at the Park Hyatt's internationally famous bar and lounge. They also serve afternoon tea, desserts and light snacks. Cocktails start at around Y1600.
This elegant, very relaxed bar features gigantic fishtanks filled with exotic tropical fish from Okinawa and environs. The menu includes tasty original cocktails and light food items. There's a Y700 per person table charge.
Fancy fresh-fruit martinis are all the rage here, and owner Tomoyuki Kitazoe makes his own herbal and fruit syrups to use in them. The bar itself, located at the Nishi-Azabu end of Kotto-dori, is quite stylish and features an outdoor terrace area.


Minami-Aoyama 7-13-13, Aoyama Jin & IT Bldg 3F. Open 6pm-midnight daily.
Attached to the Two Rooms Grill, the bar and lounge area offers cocktails and a wide choice of wines from around the world in a lovely setting, with a big outdoor terrace looking out over Harajuku and points north. 10% service charge, but no table charge.
If the walls of Radio Bar could talk, they'd sing like Chet Baker and laugh like Marlene Dietrich. The indigo interior combines elements of traditional Japanese design with Art Deco ornamentation, and exudes an air of Hollywood in the fifties. The space is seductively dim, conducive to tete-a-tetes and true confessions.If the walls of Radio Bar could talk, they'd sing like Chet Baker and laugh like Marlene Dietrich. The indigo interior combines elements of traditional Japanese design with Art Deco ornamentation, and exudes an air of Hollywood in the fifties. The space is seductively dim, conducive to tete-a-tetes and true confessions.
Radio Bar serves some of the most elegant cocktails in town, expertly mixed by Koji Ozaki and his team of white-tuxedo-attired bartenders. The focus is on the classics, served in antique glassware. Ozaki's martini is crisp and succinct, with a note of vermouth hovering above the gin. The dry Manhattan is a grown-up affair - dark, smooth and not in the least bit cloying.
Original cocktails include the Dean Martin, an unlikely but delicious blend of Campari and Jack Daniels, and the Greta Garbo, a dry martini with a sherry kick. Prices range from Y1,300 to Y2,000, but note that there's a seating charge of Y1,000 per person. [Show more] [Show less] 
Minami-Aoyama 3-10-34. Open 6pm-1am. Closed Sundays, Mondays.
This very stylish Scandinavian-design lounge features immense Austin Powers-style chairs in which you can plot world domination while you sip on unusual aquavit-based cocktails. They also serve home-made aquavit (Scandinavian schnapps) in eye-opening flavors like coconut-espresso and mango-lime-chili. The small food menu includes Swedish nibbles like roast beets with goat cheese (Y1750); and duck confit with lamb ragout (Y2400).
This stylishly retro watering hole in Shibuya serves original cocktails crafted with precision and panache. Bartender Shinobu Ishigaki has a winning way with unusual flavor combinations and mixes fruits, vegetables, and herbs into his drinks.This stylishly retro watering hole in Shibuya serves original cocktails crafted with precision and panache. Bartender Shinobu Ishigaki has a winning way with unusual flavor combinations and mixes fruits, vegetables, and herbs into his drinks.
Ishigaki puts a fresh twist on the standard gin and tonic with the addition of cucumber slices, and he finishes his Cosmopolitans with rose petals. Martinis get a spicy lift from basil or gingerbread syrup. Although an evening at Ishinohana is not cheap - drinks cost Y1,500 on average - Ishigaki's flawless technique and gracious hospitality make the experience worth every yen. [Show more] [Show less] 
Shibuya 3-6-2, B1F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Upscale California dining in a fun, thirties-movie-palace setting, from the owners of the Zest-La Boheme chain. The mainly New World wine list is well assembled, and dinner with wine generally runs in the Y7,000-Y10,000 range.

Nestled in overstuffed chairs with pillows covered in candy-colored pastel silk, visitors can enjoy spectacular views while listening to live Bossa Nova from 2:30-midnight. Arrive on the early side if you want a window seat - they are usually taken by 6pm. An entertainment charge of Y2500 applies after 8pm. Perched high above the city on the 45th floor of Tokyo Midtown's Ritz Carlton Hotel, the Lobby Bar overlooks Tokyo Tower and the surrounding area. Nestled in overstuffed chairs with pillows covered in candy-colored pastel silk, visitors can enjoy spectacular views while listening to live Bossa Nova from 2:30-midnight. The interior, designed by Frank Nicholson, is modern but traditional, with impressively high ceilings and amber wood walls illuminated by giant inverted-gumdrop lamps.
The decor may be understated, but the menu brims with over-the-top luxury. Although nothing says indulgence quite like the Diamond Is Forever Martini, a Belvedere vodka martini poured over a one carat diamond for Y1,800,000; the Lobster Martini topped with caviar and creme fraiche (Y7800) and WOW Burger made with 100% black Kobe beef (Y13,450) appear to speak a similarly decadent language.
More practically minded patrons can choose from beer at Y1200, wines by the glass starting at Y1800, cocktails from Y2000, and light bites like mixed pork and chicken skewers.
Arrive on the early side if you want a window seat - they are usually taken by 6pm. An entertainment charge of Y2500 applies after 8pm. [Show more] [Show less]

Even if you're not having a meal here, the large bar in front of the restaurant is a nice place to stop for a cocktail or two, and they make excellent martinis.New York's Union Square Cafe has been a popular gourmet hot spot since the mid-1980s, and the Tokyo sister shop captures much of the energy and excitement of the original. The food is typical international cuisine with an emphasis on simplicity and good-quality seasonal ingredients. The dining room is beautiful and well laid out, with excellent lighting and a very comfortable feel.
The menu changes often, but highlights have included the foie gras appetizer - a hefty portion of pan-seared foie gras with orange slices and bamboo shoots; the always-reliable Iberico pork; and tuna filet mignon - big tuna chunks marinated in soy and mirin for a few hours before grilling, served with tasty wasabi mashed potatoes.
The wine list doesn't have all that much under Y8000, but there are a few (like a Penfolds Australian shiraz for Y4800); by contrast they have a lot of impressively expensive bottles for the big spenders in the house. Almost all wines are from Italy, France or California. The bar up front serves a full assortment of cocktails, including an excellent martini.
Lunches are priced from Y3000, dinners from around Y12,000. Although you can find equally good food in Tokyo for about half the price, Union Square is still a good choice for a business dinner or a special lunch. [Show more] [Show less]

Mixx is among the first bars in Tokyo to wholeheartedly embrace the trend of molecular mixology. Signature cocktails include the Caprese, spiced tomato juice and vodka topped with mozzarella foam and fried basil, and the Oeuf a la coque, a creamy whip of rum, coconut, mango juice, and vanilla ice cream (Y2500 each).Mixx Bar takes advantage of its location on the 36th floor of the ANA Intercontinental Hotel to offer cinematic views of the city. The black-and-white modern interior, with its boxy floating lanterns and shiny-topped tables, recalls the Gotham City of early Batman movies.
Mixx is among the first bars in Tokyo to wholeheartedly embrace the trend of molecular mixology. Signature cocktails include the Caprese, spiced tomato juice and vodka topped with mozzarella foam and fried basil, and the Oeuf a la coque, a creamy whip of rum, coconut, mango juice, and vanilla ice cream (Y2500 each).
The bar food ranges from small snacks like truffle popcorn (Y625) to more sophisticated plates such as the deep-fried escargot brochette, suspended over a fricassee of escargot and vegetables (Y2315). The salmon platter (Y3635) comes with a skewer of smoked salmon and blinis, a finely minced salmon tartar, and plump ikura roe, each served separately in dainty cups.
A table charge of Y1050 applies after 9pm. [Show more] [Show less]

Located in the lobby of the Conrad Hotel, TwentyEight is an oasis of muted monochromes with discrete edges. Dusk is arguably the best time to visit; calm settles over the space as the sunlight fades and votive candles flicker to life. The scene gets busier in the evenings, when the after-work crowd rolls in and the live band strikes up, but beware the Y1800 seating charge after 8pm.Located in the lobby of the Conrad Hotel, TwentyEight is an oasis of muted monochromes with discrete edges. The bar's sleek design displays a tight graphic crispness, while linen shades and leather upholstery in brown and cream tones impart a contrasting softness. When planning the interior for the Conrad, G.A. Design envisioned a garden of urban tranquility, and TwentyEight, with its soaring ceilings, angled skylights, and excellent views of Tokyo Bay, proves to be a relaxing spot in Shiodome.
Teatime is popular here, and the afternoon tea set (Y3500) arrives arranged on a frosted glass platter like an assortment of sweet and savory petit fours. A miniature scone with clotted cream and raspberry jam is light but satisfying, as is the grilled chicken canape with avocado cream.
Those in search of something stronger than tea can find signature cocktails from Y1700 like the Tei-en, an unusual combination of vodka mixed with cucumber, shiso, kiwi, and cardamom seed, and the French 28, a pleasant champagne-based number spiked with Tanqueray and lime leaf, in addition to Bombay Sapphire martinis (Y2000). Tapas like zuwaigani crab cakes and marinated beef shins with cucumber are available after 5:30 (Y2000 for a set of three).
Dusk is arguably the best time to visit TwentyEight; calm settles over the space as the sunlight fades and votive candles flicker to life. The scene gets busier in the evenings, when the after-work crowd rolls in and the live band strikes up, but beware the Y1800 seating charge after 8pm. [Show more] [Show less]

Patrons lounge on pod-shaped seats beneath polished chrome trees, while ambient electronic music mingles with the soft glow of lavender neon from behind the black marble bar. Friendly service and the absence of a cover charge are a plus, making Peter: The Bar a fun place for a drink and a great view of the city. The experience of walking into the bar at Peter, the Peninsula's much talked-about fusion restaurant, defies expectation. Design team Yabu Pushelberg has created a 21st-century fantasy of the '80s, a post-modern atmosphere filled with shiny surfaces and accents that seem lifted from the pages of a Bret Easton Ellis novel. Patrons lounge on pod-shaped seats beneath polished chrome trees, while ambient electronic music mingles with the soft glow of lavender neon from behind the black marble bar.
The drink menu lists beers from Y1100 - Ebisu draft and an organic pilsner from Hokkaido brewed exclusively for the hotel - and about twelve wines by the glass starting at Y1800. A range of malt whiskies (Y2600-) will please traditionalists, but those with a taste for fruity cocktails (Y1800-Y2200) will not be disappointed. The Yuri is a refreshing combination of sake and lychee-flavored Dita with a twist of green suidachi; this season's featured cocktail, the Tokyo Joe, is a mixture of Bombay Sapphire Gin, umeshu, Drambuie, and cranberry juice, named after the 1949 Humphrey Bogart flick. Nibbles can be ordered from the bar menu.
Friendly service and the absence of a cover charge are a plus, making Peter: The Bar a fun place for a drink and a great view of the city. [Show more] [Show less]
Artisanal cocktails made from fresh seasonal fruits are a specialty at this ambitious bar, and their pina coladas and Singapore slings are quite impressive, although perhaps a bit pricier than average. Owner-bartender Hidetsugu Ueno will also improvise cocktails based on your mood and choice of spirits.

Ginza 7-2-14, 26 Polestar Bldg 4F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Located in the Four Seasons Marunouchi Hotel, Ekki Bar and Grill serves contemporary international cuisine and a nice selection of New World wines in a sophisticated setting. Weekend brunch menus from 11:30am-2pm start at Y3900. Live music Wednesday to Saturday from 9-11pm.


Marunouchi 1-11-1, Pacific Century Place. Open 6:30-10:30am, 11:30-2:30, 5:30-10pm daily.

Sumptuous is the word for the Mandarin Bar at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Nihonbashi. The interior by Ryu Kosaka, with richly tactile accents by textile designer Reiko Sudo, is chic and inviting, dominated by seductive earth tones. A live jazz band performs nightly for the relaxed and casual crowd, a mix of locals and visitors. No cover charge. Sumptuous is the word for the Mandarin Bar at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Nihonbashi. The interior by Ryu Kosaka, with richly tactile accents by textile designer Reiko Sudo, is chic and inviting, dominated by seductive earth tones. The scale of everything here, from the bathtub-sized chairs with gargantuan cushions to the fireplace that stretches nearly two floors to the ceiling, feels playfully large. The bar itself is rather spacious, with two main seating areas on either side of the central bar.
The extensive drinks menu - the wine list is its own separate tome - features original, mostly fruity, cocktails from Y1800. The Ancient City, a blend of tequila, Cointreau, and passion fruit, lacked impact but was greatly improved by an additional shot of tequila. There are flavored martinis to suit everyone's fancy, but the classic and dirty martinis (Y2100) can't be beat.
Malt whiskey by the glass (Y1995 - Y4000) and bottles of sake like Okunomatsu 88 Tokubetsu Junmai-shu (Y5040) and Tatsuriki Junmai Ginjo (Y12,600) are also available. Snacks from adjacent restaurants Sense and Signature can be ordered until 11:00.
The Mandarin Bar fills up after 8pm, so you may have to wait for a table. A live jazz band performs nightly for the relaxed and casual crowd, a mix of locals and visitors. No cover charge. [Show more] [Show less]
Perched high above Tokyo Dome, the Artist's Bar offers great views of the Imperial Palace and northern Tokyo from the bar area. Drinks start at Y700, and there's live music every night (quiet jazz, acoustic bossa) at the adjacent Artist's Cafe.
Fuglen (Yoyogi-Koen) 3481-0884
Japanese and Norwegian craft beers and artisanal cocktails are served at this very stylish Norwegian bar - the main branch is in Oslo. During the day they serve coffee and tea (but no food). Japanese and Norwegian craft beers and artisanal cocktails are served at this very stylish Norwegian bar - the main branch is in Oslo. During the day they serve coffee and tea (but no food).
Cafe hours are 8am-7pm weekdays and 10am-7pm weekends. The bar is open until midnight Wednesdays and Sundays, 1am Thursdays, and 2am Fridays and Saturdays. [Show more] [Show less]
Comfortable hangouts
This simple but stylish Italian cafe-restaurant turns into a relaxed late-night neighborhood bar after 11pm (Tuesday through Saturday nights), with reasonably priced wines and cocktails.
A small, friendly little bar that offers lots of live music and art events, including belly dancing.

Shibuya 1-6-3. Open 11:30am-11pm. Closed Sundays.
For those who hate leaving work, this popular DJ bar is decorated like an office, with file cabinets, bookshelves, and copier machine. Different DJs nightly, a young crowd, a full food menu, and a good nighttime view down Aoyama-dori.
Sign (Gaienmae) 5474-5040
A convenient Gaienmae meeting spot, with music listening booths as well as a coffee and food menu.
Ai Ai (Jingumae 2-chome) 3403-5575
An entertaining cave-like space with tiny doors, miniature rooms and lots of nooks and crannies. The menu features tasty and reasonably priced Okinawan, Thai and other Asian dishes along with assorted cocktails.


Jingumae 2-31-8. Open noon-2, 6pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
Perched on top of a very tasteful store selling pottery and plants, this is a stylish cafe during the day and a casual bar at night, with simple but well-prepared food - salads, grilled fish, onigiri, etc.
This stylish two-story cafe-bar looks like a ski chalet that's been sliced along the diagonal, with big windows looking out over the picturesque (at least at night) Shibuya River. Stop in for a late-night drink (there's plenty of reasonably priced wine by the glass or bottle) or a full meal. No cover charge.This stylish two-story cafe-bar looks like a ski chalet that's been sliced along the diagonal, with big windows looking out over the picturesque (at least at night) Shibuya River. Stop in for a late-night drink - there's plenty of reasonably priced wine by the glass or bottle - or a full meal.
The menu is a mix of creative Mediterranean (brussels sprouts stuffed with seafood; pork-belly rilettes) and Thai classics (Isan sausage; green papaya salad). No cover charge; budget around Y3500 for dinner. [Show more] [Show less]
Zetton (Higashi-Ginza) 5148-3600
Late-night drinks and pan-Asian fun food from the Nagoya-based Zetton group.
The decor here is all earth tones, raw concrete and slabs of wood, with a big tree sitting right in the middle of the floor. Music ranges from reggae to laid-back rock, and the atmosphere is totally chilled-out - people talk in hushed voices, which may be exactly what you need when you stumble in here at 3am. It's "cafe time" from 2-7pm, with coffee and cake. No table charge; no English.
A casual bar/ cafe/ restaurant with a very varied but always appealing izakaya-style menu, with dishes like beef cheeks stewed in beer, Vietnamese spring rolls, and a lavishly constructed Salad Nicoise. The drinks list is similarly eclectic, with very reasonably priced wines.
Shu (Naka-Meguro) 3712-6661
While gumbo, jazz, and soul music make likely partners in certain parts of the world - namely, New Orleans - the combination seems somewhat bizarre in Tokyo. Oddly enough, the bar's okra-thickened signature dish is not far off the mark.


Kami-Meguro 4-9-2. Open 7pm-1am. Closed Tuesdays.
Unique Tokyo spots
Late-night cocktails, jazz, light meals, and garlic chips in a relaxed neighborhood bar. Some outdoor seating.

A change of pace from the down-home Korean restaurants and boisterous makkoli bars surrounding it, Festina Lente has ambitions to be a proper cocktail bar. The barman operates his shaker with just the right degree of vigor, and he understands the importance of pre-icing your glass before the pour. On the downside, a very simple drink might take five minutes to arrive even when it's not busy. A change of pace from the down-home Korean restaurants and boisterous makkoli bars surrounding it, Festina Lente has ambitions to be a proper cocktail bar. The barman operates his shaker with just the right degree of vigor, and he understands the importance of pre-icing your glass before the pour. On the downside, a very simple drink might take five minutes to arrive even when it's not busy.
Along with standard and exotic cocktails you'll find Belgian beers and some nice Japanese sake on the menu, along with a basic food menu. The atmosphere is quite chilled-out, and you can relax late into the night if you're so inclined, as they don't close until four or five. In keeping with neighborhood customs, the background music is K-pop shown on a big-screen TV.
[Y300 cover charge; cafe time 1-6pm; bar time 6pm-4am.] [Show more] [Show less]
At Tokyo's original Tiki lounge, wooden masks glower, faux torches blaze, and hula dancers shake it, shake it, baby. The kitsch is ubiquitous, self-aware, and executed with formidable slickness. If you're in the right mood, the bar at Tiki Tiki is a fun and convenient spot to meet for a drink with friends. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
This casually hip bar and sometime music performance space is often open many hours later than the official midnight closing time. No cover charge.

This unusual cafe-bar sits in the courtyard of a very bohemian art-gallery space called Tokyo Design Festa. There's a small indoor section where you stand around overturned barrel-tables, and an outdoor portion furnished with normal tables and chairs in the tree-filled garden courtyard. Both sections look onto the gallery's exhibition spaces, so you can enjoy some fresh art along with a bit of nature while you imbibe. This unusual cafe-bar sits in the courtyard of a very bohemian art-gallery space called Tokyo Design Festa. There's a small indoor section where you stand around overturned barrel-tables, and an outdoor portion furnished with normal tables and chairs in the tree-filled garden courtyard. Both sections look onto the gallery's exhibition spaces, so you can enjoy some fresh art along with a bit of nature while you imbibe.
Choose from a decent selection of beers from around the world at reasonable prices - just help yourself from the refrigerator and pay at the counter. You can also order cocktails or coffee, and there's an eclectic "world food" small-dish menu if you want something to nibble on. Dishes start at Y315, and beers at Y500. Lunch is served 11am-3pm. [Show more] [Show less] 

Jingumae 3-20-18. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Bonobo (Jingumae 2-chome) unlisted
This comfortable sofa-furnished lounge attracts a Japanese hipster crowd and features jazzy DJs and occasional live performances; there's also a tiny art gallery and chill space upstairs. The hidden entrance is at the back of another bar.

Jingumae 2-23-4. Open 8pm-1am. Closed Sundays.

If you're thirsty for a cachaca cocktail in the wee hours of the night, follow the circle-stamped road past Mark City to Blen Blen Blen. This bone fide Brazilian bar, tucked into a faded white seventies-style building in Dogenzaka 1-chome, seats a maximum of thirty and stays open til 4am.If you're thirsty for a cachaca cocktail in the wee hours of the night, follow the circle-stamped road past Mark City to Blen Blen Blen. This bone fide Brazilian bar, tucked into a faded white seventies-style building in Dogenzaka 1-chome, seats a maximum of thirty and stays open til 4am.
Despite its difficult-to-find location and somewhat forbidding exterior, the space is cute and relaxed, decorated with colorful posters and knick-knacks of all sorts. The Brazilian flag hangs proudly on one wall, while shelves stacked with vinyl records stand beside the bar.
Take a seat and have a chat with Blen Blen Blen's gregarious master, Jukukuchi-san, while you snack on cocinias (Brazilian style chicken croquettes) or grilled chicken and corazon (hearts) and sip on your drink.
The Caipirinhas here are refreshingly tart, and the musical mix of Brazilian, soul, hip-hop, and R&B is fun and funky. The bar hosts DJ and movie events on weekends. [Show more] [Show less]
Enjoy the mini-forest of bonsai trees while you relax with a cocktail or a New Zealand wine in this tiny, charmingly quirky early-evening bar.

Ebisu-Nishi 2-8-9, Daikanyama Takara Bldg III, 4F. Open 8pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
The atmosphere at this legendary hipster hangout is funky to the extreme, with raggedy old sofas barely visible in the dim light through a haze of incense. The music is great though - experimental jazz, contemporary electronic and everything in between, depending on the DJ and the night. No cover or table charge.


Ebisu-Nishi 2-9-9, 2F. Open 1pm-2am (-4am Fri/Sat). Closed Mondays.
A friendly, relaxed bar with late-night hours, Bizarres draws a neighborhood crowd - both local residents and people who work at nearby ad agencies and other offices. The front room has a spacious (although sometimes smoky) bar area, while in back there's a lounge space furnished with sofas, comfortable chairs and a good sound system. The playlist seems to cover everything from hiphop and bossa nova to vocal jazz and bebop.


Ginza 3-14-5. Open 7pm-4am (Sat -11pm). Closed Sundays.
This tiny second-floor bar has a Buddhist theme - the name in Japanese is "bouzu", or Buddhist priest - with a little shrine in one corner and bartenders dressed in appropriate priestly garb. Drinks include several variations on shochu and plum wine, and there's a small food menu to go with your drinks.

Arakicho 6-42, AG Bldg 2F. Open 7pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Probably best known in Tokyo for their popular Y6,600 "Champagne Brunch" on Sundays, featuring all the sparkling wine you can drink. (The bar/restaurant area is open later than the main dining room; last order is at 12:30am.)


Kioicho 4-1, Hotel New Otani 4F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5pm-12:30am (LO) daily.
Located at the top of the very cultural Amuse Museum, Bar Six offers a nice evening view of the illuminated pagoda and temple buildings of nearby Sensoji Temple. Weather permitting, the outdoor terrace seats offer the best view. Drinks include cocktails and a few Belgian beers, and the casual food menu includes tasty snacks like fried chicken.
Founded in 1880, this historic bar is best known as the originator of Denki Bran ("electric brandy"), a strangely compelling, rather sweet brandy-like liquor that's used in a variety of cocktails served here. Cheap prices and communal tables encourage a very interactive bar experience.


Asakusa 1-1-1. Open 11:30am-10pm. Closed Tuesdays.
The building may look like it's falling apart, but the bar itself is quite cozy and comfortable. It's run by a Buddhist monk, and he sometimes puts on CDs of Buddhist chanting as background music.

Nakano 5-55-6, 2F. Open 7:30pm-4am. Closed Sundays.
This tiny, ramshackle hole-in-the-wall is a late-night Shimo-Kitazawa legend, going strong since 1974. The space behind the bar is filled with mountains of CDs and shelves of vinyl (many of them 70s UK glam rock and local Japanese bands), and the seating area is so small that you have to step outside to let other customers in and out. When you order a drink the bartender telephones the similarly dilapidated sister bar just upstairs (Trouble Peach) and they deliver. (Y400 cover charge.)
Mu (Shimo-Kitazawa) 5454-1450
This quiet late-night bar serves a nice selection of cocktails and attracts an eclectic, grown-up clientele. The stylish lounge-type space is dimly lit, with a few comfortable seating areas and a decent sound system.
It's an early-sixties swinging bachelor pad, with charmingly kitsch decor and a nice collection of vinyl R and B spun on their old-fashioned record player. Drinks are reasonable, and there's a small food menu if you're in the mood for some grub, daddy-o.


Kami-Meguro 3-7-5-102. Open 7pm-4am. Closed Sun, 1st and 3rd Mon.
A friendly, casual little spot with some of the better Mexican fare available in town. The bar has a good assortment of tequilas and tequila-based cocktails. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Casual after-work drinks
Buchi (Shibuya) 5728-2085
This is the original gourmet stand bar that started the trend - they serve premium sake in attractive one-cup containers along with a huge menu of well-prepared food, all at reasonable prices. There's a sit-down restaurant down in the basement if you start to get wobbly.
[Go to branch review]
Located very near Meguro Station, this world-beer bar is most notable for its late-night hours (until 7am every day). The 100-odd beers on offer seem almost randomly chosen, but there are a few very nice Belgians, microbrews and British ales among them, along with bar snacks like fish and chips. The basement dining area is reasonably large, with a big-screen TV showing an odd mix of sporting events (football, billiards).
Do-zo (Akasaka) 5545-6873
This self-consciously casual drinking spot offers a wide food menu - everything from Okinawan pork stews and stir-fries to udon noodles carbonara and brown-sugar creme brulee.


Akasaka 5-3-1, Akasaka Biz Tower B1F. Open 11am-10:50pm (LO) daily.

Perhaps this isn't the narrowest bar in Tokyo, but it's certainly the narrowest bar offering such an impressive class of craft beers, both domestic and imported. Cleverly, the tiny space is fashioned to resemble a yacht, with porthole windows and nautical decor throughout. Three small tables fill the upper deck, while the lower deck is standing-room only, with space for maybe seven or eight along the port-side bar. Perhaps this isn't the narrowest bar in Tokyo, but it's certainly the narrowest bar offering such an impressive class of craft beers, both domestic and imported. Cleverly, the tiny space is fashioned to resemble a yacht, with porthole windows and nautical decor throughout. Three small tables fill the upper deck, while the lower deck is standing-room only, with space for maybe seven or eight along the port-side bar.
If you arrive when it's crowded (i.e. most of the time) you may be asked to stand on the companionway between decks, and if that space is taken you might be directed out the stern to one of the two dockside tables; these look out onto a very noisy road where unfortunately the nautical metaphor breaks down. The tight quarters are worth putting up with for the beers, which include some great US microbrews that you simply won't find anywhere else in town. [Show more] [Show less] 

Shimbashi 3-25-10. Open 5pm-12:30am. Closed Sundays.
A casual French-Italian bistrot-bar, with lots of original tapas-size dishes, wine by the glass and Belgian beers.


Marunouchi 1-5-1, Shin-Marunouchi Bldg B1F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.

You might not expect to find a bustling late-night drinking scene on the seventh floor of an office building, but Soba Kichi is just one small part of the very lively "Home" restaurant complex in the Shin-Maru Biru across from Tokyo Station. Budget prices are a big part of the appeal - you can enjoy a couple of drinks and snacks here for under Y2000. You might not expect to find a late-night drinking scene on the seventh floor of an office building, but we discovered a lively one in the "Home" restaurant complex in Marunouchi's Shin-Maru Biru. Soba Kichi occupies a small corner of Home, and they keep going until 4am every night but Sunday, packing in the crowds at least until the last train. Budget prices are a big part of the appeal - you can enjoy a couple of drinks and snacks here for under Y2000.
The setting is stylish, with the warm lighting and blond wood tones of the sleek central counter contrasting with the coolly lit terrace garden and the Marunouchi night sky just beyond the windows. The sake list (Y500-700 per glass) is very drinkable and tailored to match the food. You can also choose from beer, many different shochus, or several budget-level wines by the glass.
Fried foods dominate the menu, with deep-fried skewers of fish, vegetables and meats starting at just Y150 per skewer. If you want something heartier, there's a big pot of beef tendon stew bubbling away on the counter, served with garlic toast or by itself. Other snacks include grilled pork belly and kibinago (silver-stripe herring), and pork and chicken cutlets. As you might guess from the name, they offer several hot and cold soba dishes (Y650-1300). The specialty of the house is tempura-fried chicken served over a bowl of soba in a curry-flavored broth. [Show more] [Show less]
This funky little retro-themed snack bar serves tasty grilled Gunma-raised pork on skewers, beef tongue and motsu nikomi (organ-meat stews) along with beer and a selection of premium sake in one-cup sizes. You can stand around the oil-drum tables up front or sit at a handful of tables in back as you enjoy the old jazz and early Showa-era posters on the walls. Skewers are priced Y160-200.


Marunouchi 1-9-1, Kitchen Street (1F). Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Zero (Nihonbashi) 5203-0900
The atmosphere is relaxed and the staff are friendly at this small, well-hidden drinking spot. They specialize in shochu and appropriate snacks - Kyoto-style pickles, Korean chijimi pancakes and uni toast - and there's also a well-chosen selection of five premium sake brands. (No English.)

Yaesu 1-4-3. Open 7-11:30pm (LO). Closed weekends.
A funky, art-filled basement bar serving Japanese craft beers, single-malt whiskies and an inexpensive food menu. There are five regular beers on draft (including Shiga-Kogen pale ale) plus a couple of guest taps and several more by the bottle.


Uchi-Kanda 3-13-10, Green Bldg B1F. Open 6pm-1am (Fri -4am) daily.
Jazz bars/cafes
A neighborhood hangout with jazz on the sound system, dim sum, Chimay beer and cocktails.


Takadanobaba 1-23-9. Open 1pm-midnight daily.
Late-night cocktails and snacks, with jazz in the background. Terrace seating is available on the first and second-floor cafe areas.
Intro (Takadanobaba) 3200-4396
An old-fashioned "jazz kissa" where you can nurse your drink and nod your head to the music for hours on end.


Takadanobaba 2-14-8, NT Bldg. B1F. Open noon-midnight daily.

Thousands of maneki neko (good-luck cat statues) fill the interior of this spacious cafe-bar. There's a counter and several tables, making this a good venue for a small party. Service is friendly and the air isn't too smoky. The manager seems to be a big fan of Johnny Griffin, whose records are displayed prominently. Thousands of maneki neko (good-luck cat statues) fill the interior of this spacious cafe-bar. There's a counter and several tables, making this a good venue for a small party. Service is friendly and the air isn't too smoky. The manager seems to be a big fan of Johnny Griffin, whose records are displayed prominently.
Haiku-related events are held here regularly. The food and drink are reasonably priced - beers and whiskies start at Y680 - and the pastas, pizzas, fried noodles and other dishes are above average. There's a table charge of Y300 from 6-9pm and Y500 after 9pm. Just a few minutes walk from the south exit of Shinjuku station. [Show more] [Show less] 

Shinjuku 3-35-5, Tera Bldg 5F. Open 6pm-midnight (Sat. 3pm-mid) daily.

This popular cafe-bar was featured as a setting in Haruki Murakami's novel "Norwegian Wood." In the afternoons customers enjoy quiet jazz along with a cup of their relatively bitter coffee (Y420), while at nighttime the place is packed with lively groups talking and listening to energetic bebop. There's often a line of customers at the entrance waiting to get in. This popular cafe-bar was featured as a setting in Haruki Murakami's novel "Norwegian Wood." In the afternoons customers enjoy quiet jazz along with a cup of their relatively bitter coffee (Y420), while at nighttime the place is packed with lively groups talking and listening to energetic bebop. There's often a line of customers at the entrance waiting to get in.
The interior is relatively spacious, with brick walls that may remind you of a Belgian pub. Because of its basement location, though, it can get a bit smoky. Don't miss the portraits of jazz musicians such as Monk, Coltrane and Miles, photographed by the owner, Hozumi Nakadaira. The drinks menu includes European beers like Hoegaarden along with various cocktails, and the evening table charge is Y530. [Show more] [Show less] 

Shinjuku 3-15-12, B1F. Open noon-2am daily.

Narcis (Shinjuku Kabukicho) 3209-6900
The bustling Kabukicho neighborhood may seem like a strange place for a jazz kissa, but Narcis is a great spot for listening to quiet jazz, and their stylish interior design is reminiscent of old cafes in New York City's East Village. The tiny cafe-bar is filled with African-style furniture and beautiful flowers arranged by the mama-san. The bustling Kabukicho neighborhood may seem like a strange place for a jazz kissa, but Narcis is a great spot for listening to quiet jazz, and their stylish interior design is reminiscent of old cafes in New York City's East Village. The tiny cafe-bar is filled with African-style furniture and beautiful flowers arranged by the mama-san.
The music played here is mainly cutting-edge European avant-garde jazz and rare old vinyl. The friendly proprietress is happy to take requests from their big collection of vinyl and CDs. They serve good coffee (Y500), and Kirin beer comes in the small-size bottles that were popular in the 1960's and 70's (Y700). There's no table charge. [Show more] [Show less] 
Kabukicho 1-13-6, 2F. Open 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Artica is not just a water bar - it's a jazz water bar! There's live music most evenings, with a music charge of Y1000-2000, and a water list featuring more than forty choices. If you want something stronger you can try one of their featured whisky and water sets, or request your favorite cocktail. There's also a cafe menu with curries, pastas and pretty good miniature pizzas.

Yoyogi 1-41-3, 2F. Open 11am-2:30, 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
You'll hear all sorts of jazz here, with an emphasis on the lastest CDs from American and European musicians. Besides the great music you can also enjoy good food - they serve delicious soups and risotto at dinnertime, and five different pastas at lunch (Y1000 including coffee or tea). You'll hear all sorts of jazz here, with an emphasis on the lastest CDs from American and European musicians. Besides the great music you can also enjoy good food - they serve delicious soups and risotto at dinnertime, and five different pastas at lunch (Y1000 including coffee or tea).
The spacious room is furnished with stylish green sofas, and this is a pleasant place to dine while listening to jazz. There's a Y500 table charge at dinnertime. Three minutes walk from the south exit of Shibuya station. [Show more] [Show less] 

Sakuragaokacho 2-3, 2F. Open noon-11pm (Fri -midnight) daily.

With its bright yellow door and sunny, brasserie-like interior, Big Boy has an atmosphere that's the complete opposite of old-fashioned jazz kissas. The management plays jazz both new and old, and the sound system is optimized for piano music, so it's a special treat listening to music from piano trios here. With its bright yellow door and sunny, brasserie-like interior, Big Boy has an atmosphere that's the complete opposite of old-fashioned jazz kissas. The management plays jazz both new and old, and the sound system is optimized for piano music, so it's a special treat listening to music from piano trios here.
At lunchtime this is a popular spot for people working in the neighborhood to drop by for sandwiches and coffee (Y1100 including drink). Many jazz fans gather here during the day to trade jazz CDs and DVDs. When the clock turns to "bar time" (after 7pm) there's a Y1000 cover charge, and you can nibble on light snacks such as sausages and baked potatoes with blue cheese.
[No credit cards.] [Show more] [Show less] 
Kanda Jimbocho 1-11. Open 11am-5, 7-11pm. Closed Sun, 1st, 3rd Sat.

This cozy cafe bar is furnished with European and Japanese antiques and heavy-duty lights used for shooting movies; the ambience seems almost like that of a private detective's office in a Raymond Chandler novel. The cafe's resident cat grooms himself to the rhythms of Thelonious Monk. This cozy cafe bar is furnished with European and Japanese antiques and heavy-duty lights used for shooting movies; the ambience seems almost like that of a private detective's office in a Raymond Chandler novel. The cafe's manager is also a director who makes documentary films. A big Eric Dolphy fan, he uses the sleeve from Dolphy's "Last Date" album as his menu cover. The cafe's resident cat grooms himself to the rhythms of Thelonious Monk.
Eigakan's coffee (Y500), which is carefully prepared using a siphon system, is quite extraordinary. They also serve premium shochu and malt whiskies (Y600-), and you can enjoy original-recipe pastas and stir-fried vegetables. One minute walk from exit A3 of Hakusan station. [Show more] [Show less] 
Hakusan 5-33-19. Open 3-11:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Apollo (Shimo-Kitazawa) 090-2906-8082
This tiny basement bar hosts live performances from local jazz musicians a few evenings a week, and plays a wide assortment of jazz CDs and videos the rest of the time.