Tula Mexican Restaurant

When it comes to finding a taste of home for Americans in Japan, the classic New York Deli serves as the culinary Holy Grail for those from the U.S. East Coast, while those from all over the Western half of the country search for decent Mexican food as the mother lode of dining experiences. In the past couple of years there have been a number of Mexican restaurants opening, resulting in a slow but steady increase in the quality of Mexican food in Tokyo. When I saw several ads for Tula in Shibuya, which opened last summer, I naturally had high hopes for a good Mexican dining experience.

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On arrival I couldn't avoid an initial let-down. Tula was smaller than expected, loud rock music was pumping through the room, and much of the menu was straight Japanese western-style pub food. The large wall sign for three kinds of spaghetti provoked sighs, although the scallop and mushroom in a sauce of white wine and butter (Y1,000) looked tempting, as did the small display of wines from Chile and Argentina.

Nonetheless, our group pressed on and ordered from the Mexican section of the menu. The Taco Platter (Y800) was generous, with three flour tortillas, three small bowls of fillings and three more small bowls of cheese, sour cream and salsa. Additional tortillas are Y100 each, and I recommend you order at least three more. The Chicken Burrito at Y800 represented a good value, as did the impressively large Quesadilla (Y900).

Even though these three dishes weren't objectionable, the problem we had with them was most apparent in the Chile Con Carne (Y550). This seemed to be made largely from canned goods; a mixture of chili beans from the U.S., Japanese meat sauce for spaghetti, and possibly industrial-grade canned salsa from Mexico. The flavors were hardly original, and lacking in fresh ingredients and spices. These exact same flavors permeated all four dishes, giving us the impression that a similar meal could be quickly cobbled together at home after a hard day at work.

To its credit, Tula is a good place for 20- and 30-somethings to knock back tequila shots and cold Mexican beer straight from the can or bottle, with a few Mexican dishes as snacks on the side. But for a better casual dining experience you'd be better off at Cantina La Fiesta (3-15-23 Roppongi, Minato-ku, Tokyo; 3475-4412) for its low prices and the fact you can actually get a decent Oaxacan mole there. If price is no object, then head to the largely authentic and fairly romantic Fonda De La Magrugada (Villa Blanca B1, 2-33-12 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku; 5410-6288).

Tula Mexican Restaurant, Shibuya-ku, Sakuragaokacho 15-4; phone 5458-2345.

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Copyright (c) 1998 Bryan Harrell

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