Exploring Naka-Meguro
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Exploring Naka-Meguro

These days, Naka-Meguro is bursting at the seams with cute cafes, cool restaurants, and cozy bars. If you haven't been to this hipster hangout for a while, it's time for another visit.

New Discoveries

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Fresh organic produce is the pride of this casual, stylish dining bar. The simple menu complements the nice selection of organic and biodynamic wines. Bruschetta, baby shrimp and tomatoes sauteed in garlic oil, and other tapas-style dishes are available on the first floor; more substantial fare can be ordered on the second (full course dinners from Y2800). The smoke-free environment is a plus. [data]
Red Book
This tiny cafe serves tasty curries and dirt-cheap beer all day long. Choose from chicken, keema, or one of their daily specials (from Y650). The sea green walls scream Bangkok, while the single chandelier and squat velour bar seats seem lifted from New Orleans' French Quarter. Together with the tattooed, fedora-wearing clientele, the atmosphere is pure Tokyo. [data]
Kochi
This busy shochu specialist, with room for only 25 (including the outdoor seating that spills out onto the sidewalk), features over 100 varieties, along with Kagoshima style cooking. Nibble on izakaya standards like grilled chicken and buta no kakuni, or more unusual items like chicken sashimi. Budget around Y4000. [data]
Aoya
Located in a Showa-era house, this charming lunch spot along the backstreets of trendy Aobadai serves up healthy Japanese home cooking and specialty teas. The Obanzai set for Y1200 changes daily and comes with three side dishes, miso soup, and your choice of gokoku-mai (a blend of white rice plus five grains) or brown rice from Kyoto. Lunch is until 3pm, and drinks and desserts like matcha cake are available until six. After that, the cafe is open to members only. [data]
Seirinkan
The camouflage net-covered, cast iron exterior of Seirinkan (formerly acclaimed pizzeria Savoy) strikes an imposing figure, but inside atmosphere is lively and fun. The Japanese menu is written in a style that resembles the square Cyrilic characters of Soviet propaganda posters, while Uncle Sam points at you from unexpected places.

Although they serve only two kinds of pizza here - marinara and margherita - taciturn owner Susumu Kakinuma bakes both to perfection in the wood-fired oven downstairs. The menu features other tempting items like fresh mozzarella salad, sauteed baby octopus, and giant prawns. Budget Y3500-4000 for dinner and a few drinks. [data]
Five Star Cafe
This laid-back restaurant, located in what feels like a cinderblock bunker, serves up tasty, reasonable Singaporean and Malaysian fare. Lunch (11:30-3) is a steal, with classics such as Hainan chicken rice and Malaysian black curry, flavored with shrimp paste and coconut milk, available for Y880. More unusual items, like paper-wrapped chicken appetizers, soft-shell crab in chili sauce, and claypot-steamed rice with chicken and Chinese sausages, can be found on the dinner menu. After 1pm dogs are also welcome. [data]
Spray
This stylish, modern izakaya offers an array of European and Japanese dishes - liver pate, fried oysters, braised beef cheeks - as well as the Napolitan-style pizza that has spread like wildfire across Naka-Meguro. The copper steins used to serve beer are a nice touch. Budget around Y5000 per person. [data]
Snobbish Babies
Take your doggy for a leisurely meal at Snobbish Babies, a high-end canine clothing store and cafe along the Meguro River. Choose crepes, beef stew, or the daily lunch plate for yourself, and pick something off the Dog Menu for your four-legged friend. Lunch until 5pm. [data]
Cerons
Inside this quiet little bar hidden under the train tracks, the sepia-toned atmosphere is relaxed and comfortable. Oil pastel portraits of Spike Lee and Peter Tosh in carved wooden frames decorate the walls, while soul and R&B plays in the background. The friendly, unpretentious staff will gladly recommend a wine for you. [data]
Shu
While gumbo, jazz, and soul music make likely partners in certain parts of the world - namely, New Orleans - the combination seems somewhat bizarre in Tokyo. Oddly enough, the bar's okra-thickened signature dish is not far off the mark. [data]
Bar Agrado
Tapas and grilled items, a good selection of sherry, plus around 5 wines by the glass are available at this pleasant bar, located on a small side street behind the Nakameguro GT building. The first floor, with its counter seating (and standing room at the front), has a cozy, chilled out feel. Table seating can be found on the second floor. (Open 4-11:30pm Sundays and holidays.) [data]

Old Standbys

Tetsugen
The Tetsugen chain (of three branches) is known for their top-quality meats, including fresh lamb, horsemeat and premium wagyu. This branch specializes in Korean-style grilled meats, fired up over a charcoal-burning hibachi at your table and accompanied by Korean side dishes and sauces. Drinks include Korean shochu and various types of makkoli (milky-white unpasteurized Korean sake). The decor is pleasantly modern, with glass bricks, an all-white counter area and drop-down blinds between tables providing a bit of privacy. Budget around Y4000 with drinks. [data]
Ceylon Inn
Excellent, authentic Sri Lankan cuisine prepared by native chefs at this friendly little neighborhood spot. The chef's special menu includes chicken live stew, fish curry and masala chicken. Budget around Y2500 for dinner, Y1000 for lunch. [data]
Aburiya Fudo
Excellent charcoal-grilled meats and vegetables are served here with Korean-style sauces and side dishes. The quality of the meats is first-rate, and there are lots of grilled and stewed organ meats. Drinks include flavored Korean makkoli (sweet, cloudy sake) plus sake and shochu. The spacious counter is warm and comfortable. [data]
Kinsai
A casual bar-restaurant from the folks who brought us the original gourmet stand-bar, Buchi, and its French cousin, Bongout Noh. Drinks include wine by the glass and plenty of premium sake brands, and the food menu covers seafood, charcoal-grilled meats, tofu and vegetables, with dishes like foie gras and daikon miso dengaku (Y1400). [data]
Kushiwakamaru
People start lining up early for the excellent yakitori at this legendary neighborhood joint, so we recommend that you get there very early. Same-day reservations can be made from 1-5pm (but make sure that you show up on time!). Budget around Y3000 for a filling meal with drinks. [data]
by Melinda Joe