Those with a fondness for cartoon-character dolls and action figures will find a kindred spirit in Yoshitomo Nara, whose paintings and sculptures of devilish children are as disconcerting as they are cute. A joint project with the Graf design firm, A to Z Cafe, with its original artwork, mismatched furniture, and liberal use of worn wood and corrugated iron, is a cool place to spend the afternoon. Nara's conceptual home on the range provides an interesting contrast to the fifth-floor view of the teeming metropolis outside.

The cafe offers daily lunch specials starting at Y800, in addition to the extensive menu of wafu-inflected dishes ranging in price from Y315-1000. Mentaiko nori toast makes an unusual salty snack; deep-fried baby squid and crispy rice cakes are almost too cute to eat.

Choose from a selection of coffee drinks or Chinese and Japanese teas to go with tempting desserts like kabocha and coconut cake. Cocktails, beer, shochu, and champagne are also available if you fancy something stronger. Drop in for one of the free artist lectures or just sit around and enjoy the atmosphere: the pretty people drift in and out as softly lilting ambient music floats in the air. [data]

Tucked into a leafy lane along the Meguro River, Combine feels rather like a hidden gem. Reminiscent of a converted loft, the industrial concrete and aluminum interior is tempered by velveteen chairs that encourage lounging and a marvelous bookcase that dominates the west wall.

Most of the books are art and design focused, and in Japanese, but customers are free to browse at their leisure. Large open windows lend the space an airy feel. The afternoon crowd is a mixed bag of bookworms, impeccably dressed older ladies, and the requisite table of fashion-industry hipsters.

Lunch sets, available from noon-3pm, change daily and cost about Y1000 each. The ethnic-inspired fare is surprisingly healthy and tasty. Seafood pho comes loaded with vegetables and spiked with fried garlic. Salads are generously sprinkled with cashews. Teatime runs until 6pm, after which Combine turns into a bar serving food and drinks until late. Check their website (www.combine.jp) for DJ and live music event info. [data]

Make yourself comfortable at Koenji's Cafe Apartment, where you are given a pair of slippers at the door. The floor plan is that of a 1DK apartment, strikingly similar to the domiciles of many Tokyoites. Low tables and soft cushions line the walls; green plants inhabit the corners. Picture books and magazines await perusal, while crayons and white paper placemats are provided for more creative moments.

Relax with a decadent Royal Mango Milk Tea or a cold bottle of Corona with lime. The food menu is limited to a few variations on omu-rice (Y980 each) and the croque monsieur (Y680), plus a few small dishes like sausage links and pickles.

Each season, the cafe showcases special desserts from around the world. Vietnam is the current destination on the "world sweets tour," with tapioca and sweet beans over crushed ice topped with coconut milk, banana chips, and nuts. Monthly Friday-Flyday nights feature live music for free or a small charge. [data]

The hostess at Kado greets customers with a polite, "Douzo, agate kudasai." As when visiting any Japanese home, guests are requested to leave their shoes in the genkan. Located in a Showa-era house built in 1950 near Kagurazaka's Akagi Shrine, this quaint cafe and restaurant offers a glimpse of what life was like in pre-high rise Tokyo.

The main dining area is a tatami room that opens onto a narrow veranda with just enough space to accommodate four very slim people. Table seating with sofas and chairs can be found in the small back room.

The food, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients, is simple but not without little surprises. Densely satisfying taro root croquettes open to reveal a single golden ginko nut nestled in the center. Wooden ear mushrooms peek out of the fluffy omu-rice. The lunch sets are available from 11:30-2:30 for about Y1000. Go for an early lunch to beat the crowds, or stop in during cafe time (from 2:30-5pm) for a coffee or a nice cup of Chinese or Japanese tea. Dinner is served from 5-11pm. [data]