A lot of Korean restaurants focus on one particular dish, and here the specialty is called tahhanmari - a very tasty, delicately flavored chicken soup. One order of soup is Y3600 - large enough for 2-4 people, it includes a whole chicken along with leeks and other vegetables. Extra toppings are available and, as with Japanese nabemono, it's traditional to add udon noodles or rice at the end of the meal to soak up the fantastic chicken broth.

To make your meal more interesting there are some two dozen side dishes to choose from. Our favorites include the garlicky egg-and-vegetable custard (keranchimu) that's far more exciting than Japanese chawan-mushi; Korean gyoza dumplings; fantastic smoked ham, and deep-fried chicken-skin sembei. Unusual for a Korean restaurant, very few of the dishes here are spicy-hot, and the flavors are a good match for the drinks menu, which offers several varieties of makkoli, an earthy Korean-style milky sake. [data]

A spacious bar serving meaty German fare and great beer. Four German brews from Spaten and Franziskaner are on draft (starting at Y600/glass) with several more by the bottle. The Y3500 prix-fixe menu consists of assorted German hams, sausages, pork cutlets, spaetzel dumplings in cheese sauce, and a pretzel. Unusual for this neighborhood, they're open till 4am Thursday and Friday nights. [data]

Healthy seasonal cuisine with lots of vegetables is the attraction at Aen, and the spacious, plant-filled dining area is a pleasant place to enjoy it. The menu is mix of dishes from everywhere - gorgonzola-honey pizza; stir-fried vegetables in XO sauce; stewed Berkshire pork with tomatoes; natto salad. The Y1680 lunchtime buffet includes your choice of one main dish; dinner averages Y3000 before drinks. [data]

With its corrugated metal facade, utilitarian stools, colorful banners and constantly shouted greetings, Kaba strives for a down-home feel and is probably the most boisterous spot in the Hamasite Gourmet complex. The mainstay on the menu is seafood flown in fresh daily from the San-in region of Western Honshu - some thirty or forty varieties, both raw and grilled. Budget around Y4000 for ample food and drink. [data]

There's no need for an elaborate meal if you're not in the mood; here you can settle in with a simple pizza margherita, a sampling of their fifteen different hams and salamis, and a nice bottle or two of Italian wine. The cellar stocks around 300-400 different bottles, so it may take awhile to choose. Open late Thursday and Friday evenings; budget from Y4000 at dinnertime with drinks. [data]

This attractively appointed izakaya is a branch of a popular Osaka shop specializing in grilled and fried morsels of meat and vegetables on skewers. But not just any morsels on skewers - the 40-odd varieties range from simple salted prawns and chicken wings to green peppers stuffed with minced shrimp and salmon with porcini sauce. Try them all! An assortment of eight skewers is Y2650; budget around Y3000-6000 for dinner and drinks. [data]

An upscale yakitori chain featuring delectable free-range birds from Miyazaki Prefecture - charcoal-grilled, fried, stewed, and even raw. The interior is simple and pleasantly decorated, with a lively counter area at its heart. Budget around Y4500 for food and drink. [data]