Flatiron occupies the former teppanyaki counter at modern steakhouse Decanter, and it's there that adventurous diners can enjoy an entertaining two-hour, eleven-course-plus tasting menu that's more experimental than what one would find in the main dining room. Flatiron's chef plays with different cooking methods and presentation styles, using contrasting textures and temperatures and ingredients, and adding elements like smoke and ice for a bit of drama on the serving plate.

One memorable course on the winter menu was called "Breakfast in America," which explored the theme of breakfast ingredients, juxtaposing foie gras, pancakes, blackberry compote and bacon. Another inspired combination was the swordfish, Japanese pear, pickled turnips and chili salt (served on a block of ice), while the deconstructed-tiramisu dessert added a new twist to a classic blend of flavors.

Some dishes incorporate amusing science-lab touches, like the grain-fed striploin and scampi, which comes with a syringe with which to inject black-truffle juice into your scampi. The "Black Snow" palate-cleanser (chardonnay juice with Hawaiian volcanic salt) is made with liquid nitrogen, and other dishes are prepared using ultra-thin fiber-optic glass sheets that can withstand extreme temperature changes.

A big part of our Flatiron experience was the enthusiastic running commentary throughout the meal, as our server explained the ingredients, preparation and inspiration of each dish as it was served. Dinner is by reservation only, and runs Y15,400 per person (with service charge). A wine-pairing course is an additional Y8,250, or you can order by the glass or bottle from Decanter's extraordinary and wide-ranging wine list.