This casual cafe-bar, run by a former music-business veteran and radio DJ, plays an eclectic mix of jazz, New Orleans funk, soul, Brazilian pop, and whatever else you might like to request. And unlike your typical hidden-away DJ bar, FM has big street-facing windows offering a panoramic view of the passing fashion scene in this lively north-Harajuku neighborhood.

In the daytime you can enjoy coffee, desserts and light snacks, and in the evenings there's a small but well-chosen wine list, with bottles starting at around Y4800 (for Smoking Loon Cabernet Sauvignon), plus a full cocktail menu. The kitchen serves up simple but reliable tapas dishes, pastas, curries, and sandwiches.