Call it a wine izakaya if you like - you can choose from more than a dozen wines by the glass from France, Italy and Japan, along with an eclectic mix of original small dishes from those same countries. Many of the ingredients are imported fresh from Tohoku-area farms - we recently enjoyed two different cuts of well-grilled guinea fowl and flavorful late-summer green and yellow zucchini served with a dollop of miso. Daily specials can include such diverse dishes as mussels with Brussels sprouts; bamboo shoots with pig's feet; and pate de campagne.

The atmosphere is casual and friendly, and the shop's layout is narrow but quite deep, with most seating at a long, comfortable counter, plus two tiny tables at the very back. Fourteen wines by the glass are priced Y600-1000, while bottles start at around Y3500, with a number of organic selections. You can drop in for a late-night snack or a full meal, a quick glass or a full bottle. Budget around Y4000 with drinks for a dinner-size order.