Billing itself as a traditional Texas smokehouse, White Smoke offers a good selection of Texas barbecue-style dishes - beef brisket, beef ribs, pork ribs, turkey breast, pork chops, chicken and burgers. Owner-pitmaster Craig White was born in Texas, and learned his craft at Louie Mueller's BBQ in Taylor, Texas. A former engineer, he designed for himself a serious, 1.8-ton upright smoker that was custom-built in the US and shipped to Tokyo.

The premium-quality meats used here are all sourced from the US, and are cooked in a traditional "low and slow" style for up to fifteen hours. The slow cooking approach results in very tender and juicy meats - the brisket in particular is a favorite. Meats are complemented by a smoky, tomato-based barbecue sauce that's mild enough not to overpower the individual meat flavors.

The menu's side dishes, while traditionally inspired, are much fancier than what you'd find in a Texas BBQ joint. The cole slaw features diced apples, poppy seeds and a hint of anise, while the flaky, lard-infused buttermilk biscuits are served with a delicious molasses butter. Other side options include five mushrooms sauteed with a five-peppercorn mix; roast shallots with watercress; and a very tasty version of that old standby, pork and beans.

The wine list offers several good choices in the Y4000-7000 range, plus some special bottles for celebratory occasions. There are ten wines by the glass, plus a couple of excellent US microbrews from legendary breweries like Bear Republic and Southern Tier. The upstairs main dining room is spacious and comfortable; next to it is a small private dining room, and downstairs is the open kitchen area, flanked by a twelve-seat counter. Budget around Y5000-6000 for dinner with a few drinks; lunches start in the Y1000 range.