The Georgian chef at this tiny bar-restaurant turns out a good range of tasty dishes from his native land, with flavors that are quite exotic for Tokyo. The menu favors the meaty, well-spiced dishes of the Eastern half of Georgia, incorporating plenty of cilantro and other herbs, nuts and garlic. Georgia is also famous for its wines, and several varieties are available by the glass.

On a recent visit we started with a mixed salad platter - an appetizing assemblage of Badrijani (mashed eggplant with garlic and walnuts); Pkhali (spinach paste and walnuts); and kidney bean and walnut salad. Next was a thick, fragrant soup of the day made with rice and eggs, enlivened by a refreshing dash of wine vinegar. The beef stew had a complex tomato-based sauce and good-sized, tender chunks of beef - all good wintertime fare of course, but not unwelcome after a summer day spent in air-conditioned chill.

Lamb shashlik made a great finale - charcoal-grilled with a solid, smoky flavor; well-done but still tender, and well matched to our full-bodied Cabernet. Red, white and sparkling wines are all well represented, starting at Y700/glass or Y3900/bottle.

The tall, oddly shaped space - feeling more like a bar than a restaurant - is encased by double-height windows on two sides and features a big counter bar and a small balcony area upstairs. Geogian pop music videos play nonstop on the big-screen monitor. Dinner with drinks runs around Y3500, and the lunchtime buffet is Y1000.

by Robb Satterwhite