This bustling basement restaurant offers expertly prepared, impressively authentic Szechuan cuisine. Steamed chicken and fried tofu in sesame sauce is perfectly spicy and smoky, a soup of Szechuan pickles and bean thread noodles light and piquant. Shrimp and wontons are drizzled with fiery la-yu and encircled with thin blades of suirensai, a green vegetable reminiscent of morning glory.