Bankashien's menu covers everything from budget noodle dishes to Szechuan and Shanghai-style standards, with quality ranging from pretty good to pretty fantastic. The hits here really stand out, so it's well worth exploring the menu over the course of repeat visits. Some of our memorable discoveries have included the meaty and garlicky gyoza dumplings and the tasty and beautifully textured spring rolls. The mabo dofu is another prize-winner - far spicier than average, with a pleasantly gloopy consistency that works quite well.

We were less excited by the rest of the dumpling menu - the har gow and the xiao long bao (shoronpo) were somewhat doughy for our tastes, as was the otherwise good fried chicken. The crabmeat-egg stir-fry was tasty but a bit vinegary. The fresh-tasting stir-fried greens were another highlight though, providing nice textural and flavor balance. The various noodle dishes also tend to be good, and good value.

As is true in many Chinese restaurants, the bigger the group you go with, the more fun you'll have trying out lots of different dishes. Bankashien's interior is ornate in the extreme; somebody here pulled out all the stops when it came to decorating the place, and it really adds to the experience. Budget around Y1500-3500 at dinnertime; cash only.