Many Tokyo cafes have succeeded in creating a laid-back, Bohemian-style atmosphere, but none quite so literally as this charming Old World-inspired Czech cafe. Hanging from the walls are antique clocks, carved wooden marionettes, posters for local theater events and a well-used bulletin board. An old piano stands in one corner; above it a chalkboard lists upcoming musical events held here. Each of the solid, well-scuffed wooden tables is supplied with a deck of cards - there's no need to bring your own.

If the weather is nice you can sit by one of the big open windows looking onto the street and enjoy a Czech beer. Choose from any of eight varieties from Staropramen, Bernard, Budvar and Urquel breweries, or a fresh-tasting draft microbrew pilsner made by a Czech brewmaster in Ishikawa (Y750). Wines are from vineyards in Czech and neighboring Slovakia. There's also an impressive selection of fourteen herbal teas - ten single-flavor infusions like sage and lemongrass, and four custom blends.

In the evenings, Cafe Ano turns into Tokyo's foremost and only Czech restaurant, serving down-home fare like roast pork, pork cutlets and Czech-style risotto. Don't miss their delicious bramborak - thick, garlicky potato pancakes served with ingredients like sausage and sauerkraut; spinach and hard-boiled egg; or smoked salmon. Sekana - a garlicky pate described on the chalkboard as Czech meatloaf - makes a good starter, and the goulash is rich and meaty.

Budget around Y3500-5000 for dinner and some drinks; prix-fixe menus run Y2700-4800. Lunch is Y950-1500 (for a three-dish special lunch menu), and is served until 3pm.

A small shop upstairs sells children's books, toys, wooden crafts and DVDs of Czech animation. Czech cooking classes (in Japanese) are held on Tuesdays, presided over by the cafe's two native Czech chefs.

[Update: Since this review was published, Cafe Ano has moved to newer, more modern quarters near Omotesando; they still serve the same excellent food and Czech beer.]

by Robb Satterwhite