The doors of this contemporary French restaurant open soundlessly onto a white dining space that gleams with polished surfaces. Music is notably absent, and the staff moves in cat-like silence. All of this is done, presumably, to focus the diner's attention on the food. But even if the walls were fuchsia and music was blaring, Chef Yoshihiro Narisawa's creations would be impossible to ignore.

Mr. Narisawa left for Europe at the age of seventeen, and his food takes in the influence of those early days. A dish of langoustines and morel mushrooms, bathed in a rich Marsala cream sauce, is indulgently nostalgic. Dewy slices of smoked salmon, draped over a bed of finely diced vegetables, are enshrouded in a puff of smoke under a glass dome. The presentation is dazzling, but the intense flavor of the salmon steals the show.

Mr. Narisawa deftly combines innovative techniques with a quiet Japanese sensibility. Delicately fried baby ayu sweetfish are served with sugar-dusted cherry blossom petals and arranged on the plate to look as though they're swimming. In a dish called Mountains and the Sea, the chef hides succulent abalone beneath a layer of mildly bitter sansai mountain vegetables, and covers the composition with a transparent gelee of Jamon Iberico. The effect is surprising - light and satisfyingly earthy at the same time.

The meat dishes, in particular, showcase the chef's talent. Rosy medallions of pork, painstakingly braised for hours using a technique called arroser, are perfectly tender and infused with flavor. The pork comes with puddles of sweet onion puree and dots of highly concentrated, anise-scented sauce, but the meat is delicious enough on its own to render these garnishes almost unnecessary.

No meal is complete without dessert, and at Les Creations de Narisawa you'll get at least three. Despite your protests, the server will leave a box of airy macarons on the table. And, despite your better judgment, you will eat every last one.

[Prix-fixe menus are Y7000 and Y21,000 at lunch, and Y21,000 at dinner, plus service charge. No a la carte at dinnertime.]