New York chef Ivan Orkin, a veteran of the kitchens of Mesa Grill and Lutece, is striving to create the perfect bowl of noodles in his tiny ten-seat shop in suburban Setagaya-ku. His pork-free broth is made from chicken, kombu and sardines, and the noodles are home-made.

Soup choices include shoyu, shio, and slow-roasted garlic - an intensely garlicky broth that's served with noodles made from a mix of udon and bread flours rather than standard ramen flour. One recommended side dish is the pulled pork and roast tomato donburi; there's also home-made ice cream. Be prepared to wait in line.