The camouflage net-covered, cast iron exterior of Seirinkan (formerly acclaimed pizzeria Savoy) strikes an imposing figure, but inside atmosphere is lively and fun. The Japanese menu is written in a style that resembles the square Cyrilic characters of Soviet propaganda posters, while Uncle Sam points at you from unexpected places.

Although they serve only two kinds of pizza here - marinara and margherita - taciturn owner Susumu Kakinuma bakes both to perfection in the wood-fired oven downstairs. The menu features other tempting items like fresh mozzarella salad, sauteed baby octopus, and giant prawns. Budget Y3500-4000 for dinner and a few drinks.