This comfortable basement spot calls itself a makkoli bar, and they stock a surprising eleven varieties of this traditional Korean beverage - a more down-home version of Japanese "cloudy" sake. But once you get over the novelty of the drinks list, you may come to think of Tejimaul more as an outstanding pork restaurant.

They showcase three types of heirloom pork from a small farm in Yamagata, and the intense flavor of these specialty porcine breeds, the marbled meat grilled slowly and served with Korean-style dips and garnishes, is simply amazing.

As in a typical yakiniku restaurant you can order different cuts of meat a la carte or as a "moriawase" selection; the meat is then prepared on a portable gas-stove contraption with a slanted grill that drain off excess fat as it cooks. The pork comes with garlic slices and a standard dipping sauce, and you can opt for add-ons like lettuce, herbs, scallions, cabbage and kimchi.

There's a wide selection of side dishes, including toppoki (cylinders of mochi-like rice in a spicy red sauce), cold noodles, and some excellent chapche, made with unusually soft cellophane noodles and an ample supply of sauteed vegetables. They also serve one of the best versions of kakuni (stewed pork) that we've ever had, with meat that falls off the bone and flavor that's richer and deeper than the typical Kyushu version that we're used to.

As for Tejimaul's "makkoli bar" menu, it's an unusual concept even in Korea, where a typical restaurant will serve one or two local brands as an alternative to beer or shochu. Served in a ceramic cup or a big bowl, makkoli is milky white in color, tangy in flavor and sometimes a bit fizzy, with an alcohol content just a bit higher than beer. Tejimaul has assembled brands from several different regions of the home country (plus one local Japanese brand), including several interesting flavor variations.

Our very favorite is the first on the menu, a black-bean makkoli with a sweet, nutty flavor, very evocative of hazelnuts. The okoge (toasted rice) and chestnut versions are also on the sweet side and quite drinkable, while the "dongdongju" from Pusan is much smoother and more refined. On the other hand we found the ginseng makkoli to be rather overpowering in flavor, although many people love it. You'll also find a pageful of original makkoli-based cocktails, mixed with gin, cassis or grapefruit juice. And of course there's the ever-popular Korean soju (shochu) and two kinds of draft beer (we prefer the more full-bodied Premium Malts over the native Korean Hite beer as a better match for the food here).

Tejimaul's dining room is simple but chic, with earth-toned walls, wood panelling and a big wooden counter. Lots of bottles are on display, and the glass-front makkoli refrigerator is prominent. Many customers are Korean, and the crowd ranges from after-work salarymen to hip young couples to informal groups of friends. The food menu is relatively large (and all in Japanese), but the osusume page with photos is a good place to start. Budget around Y3000-5000 for food and drinks.