Ushi-tora is a specialty beer bar that attracts Japanese connoisseurs from all over town with its collection of twenty beers on tap, most of them local microbrews. We recommend the Yona Yona Real Ale, one of three traditional cask-conditioned "real ales" that are hand-pumped.

The small food menu is good and inexpensive, with tasty beer-friendly dishes like deep-fried octopus, fish and chips, spicy fried chicken and shepherd's pie. The atmosphere is quiet and low-key, and service (in Japanese) is friendly and helpful. Beers rotate frequently, so every visit can be a new experience.

by Robb Satterwhite