(Formerly called "Asli".) We were surprised to see the sign for a "slow food" restaurant in a Marunouchi office building basement, but then again we've seen a lot of interesting things in office buildings recently. For example, just down the corridor from the slow-food place is a tiny bistro serving galette crepes from Bretagne. Perhaps Marunouchi basements, rather than Nishi-Azabu back streets, are the real development laboratory for next year's food trends.

At any rate, this "Slow Dining" restaurant announces that they specialize in natural vegetables and Date Chicken. Indeed many vegetables are served here, most of them organic. Don't get the wrong idea though - this is "Chez Panisse organic" rather than health-food coop organic, sought more for its superior flavor than for its lack of pesticides. The drinks menu includes organic fruit and vegetable juices, organic wines, and some unusual organic varieties of sake and shochu. There's also a fair selection of champagnes - even a champagne lunch special. (Wines start in the Y4000 range, champagnes around Y8000.)

The chicken at the heart of the menu is quite good - free-range Date chicken from Fukushima, very flavorful and a bit firmer of flesh than ordinary chicken. Here it's grilled with a nice crispy skin, served with dabs of spicy yuzu pepper and ume paste, plus assorted organic vegetables. The many other chicken dishes include a hot hors d'oeuvre platter, chicken sausage, chicken cabbage rolls, and a nice simple chicken broth.

There's more than just chicken on the menu though - grilled lamb, veal and pork round out the meat section, which includes a nice mixed grill with several different meats (Y4200). And the kitchen puts together one of Tokyo's better Caesar salads, with hakusai as well as romaine lettuce and a good solid jolt of anchovy flavor, parmesan cheese, bacon and several slices of grilled chicken.

The interior space is very sleek (as so many Marunouchi basements are these days) - one walks past a stylish little bar area next to the entrance, then down a corridor lined with private booths - each equipped with a set of curtains for more privacy - finally emerging into a main dining room anchored by a large central counter space. This central space is a popular spot for after-work parties, so it's a good idea to call ahead to reserve. Service is friendly and efficient, and not as slow as we momentarily feared (given the restaurant's theme). Budget around Y2000 for a big lunch and Y3500-4000 for dinner (without drinks).

by Pam Castle