Before we discovered Ifuu, we had never heard of a Korean robatayaki. The idea has a definite appeal, though - the simplicity of charcoal-grilled skewers of meat combined with spicy Korean flavors sounds like a winning formula. And Ifuu carries out the concept very well - it's got far more flair than the usual Korean joint, and a lot more spice than your typical yakitoriya. Whether you drop in for drinks or for a full dinner, the atmosphere is casual and relaxed, and prices are quite reasonable.

One main portion of Ifuu's menu is straight from the grill - small delicacies perfect for nibbling on with drinks, some of them served on skewers and some not. Certain items - like the crunchy grilled prawns and smoky eringi mushrooms - might not seem so obviously Korean in execution, but the quality of the ingredients is first-rate, and they go very nicely with kimchee. Other dishes are noticeably different from their Japanese equivalents: brushed-on sauces and dips are made with distinctively Korean spices and herbs, hotter flavors, and much more garlic. Recommendations from the charcoal brazier include the grilled pork with miso topping, the garlicky grilled chicken (momo) and tsukune meatballs, and the unusual yomogi nama-fu, seasoned with a nice twist of yuzu on top of the ubiquitous garlic.

The rest of the menu covers spicy stews and nabe dishes, sashimi, salads, and a version of samgetang ginseng-chicken soup. There are a number of original side dishes, some of which work better than others. The cheese chijimi (seafood pancake), for example, is quite nice, but the fusion-y maguro yukke with kimchee natto is a bit of a stretch - the Japanese natto doesn't really add anything to the dish, and it probably would be better without it.

Both Korean and Japanese shochu are well represented on the drinks list, including seasonal specials. There are also two kinds of makkoli, the Korean equivalent of nigori-zake ("cloudy sake"), and the "nama" version in particular is quite nice and easy to drink. Budget around Y3500 for food and drink; party plans start at Y2800.

Ifuu is part of the Osaka-based Chanto group (Daidaiya, Ken's Dining), and judging from the difficulty in getting reservations, it looks like they have another success on their hands.