The imaginative setting at this tofu-centered izakaya is a big part of the fun - you'll find streams of running water and rock gardens; little footbridges and miniature doorways, and narrow pathways leading through warrens of private rooms. Semi-private rooms, actually - cozy little chambers that are screened off by bamboo blinds, so you can hear the people in the next chamber and sort of vaguely see them, but you can also tune them out pretty easily. Some restaurants are places to "see and be seen," but Tsuki no Shizuku is the opposite - a place to hide out amongst your fellow diners.

Once you've settled into your private cubbyhole you can relax with a drink and some interesting food selections. Drinks include the usual izakaya range - some good regional sakes, premium shochu, shochu cocktails, beer - all at reasonable prices. The food menu is agressively original, with menu sections devoted to homemade tofu and yuba (tofu skin) dishes, plus grilled items including "Yamato pork" and free-range chicken. Typical tofu dishes include deep-fried agedofu; yuba with Chinese-style steamed shrimp, gingko nuts and other vegetables; and a nice miso-pickled tofu with slivers of toasted onion.

Some of the meat dishes are quite basic (the tasty grilled chicken, for example), but most are more elaborate assemblages (like the Yamato pork wrapped around camembert cheese and okra). The duck salad with grapefruit, red pimentos and scallions is recommended, as is the lightly pickled summer eggplant. Other intriguing menu choices include a selection of foods grilled on giant leaves.

Tsuki no Shizuku is a good place for an entertaining round of drinks with friends, or perhaps a very discreet date. It can also make an interesting Tokyo field trip for visiting out-of-towners. Several other branches are scattered around town (Ueno Atre, Shinagawa Grand Passage, Ikebukuro), all with similarly ambitious interior schemes. Budget around 4000 yen per person for a couple of hours of drinks and snacks.

by Pam Castle