Cochin - the free-range chicken that's the pride of Nagoya - is the bird of choice at this friendly yakitori shop, but there's plenty more here to attract the discerning diner. Explore the menu and you'll be rewarded with great little regional dishes from around the country. Oysters from Miyajima, kiritampo stew (made with mushrooms and grilled rice) from Akita, Berkshire pork from Kyushu, and some excellent oden, one of Tokyo's own specialties. There are nice udon noodles, kamameshi rice, and premium filet of beef grilled right at the table. Plus beautifully fresh and flavorful sashimi to start things off, and some well-chosen regional sake to wash it all down.

The menu really is surprisingly big and varied, making this a good destination for repeat visits. It's centered on chicken of course - grilled breast meat, thigh meat, wings, liver, gizzards - the usual selection - with a five-skewer assortment to simplify ordering. Wings are one of the hardest parts of the bird to prepare really well, but the tebasaki here is skillfully done, with perfectly crisp skin and moist meat. And the tsukune (chicken meatballs) are well above average, with bits of crunchy cartilage and a well-balanced tare sauce.

The vegetables are also impressive - charcoal-infused grilled asparagus with a good crunch, soft grilled garlic paired with a tangy miso paste, tender and woodsy-tasting gingko nuts. Also recommended is the turnip salad with mixed greens, paprika strips and slices of prosciutto, drizzled in vinegar dressing with a hint of cheese.

The stylish dining space is big and lively - table seating rather than counter, with some non-smoking tables and a couple of separate rooms facing the front windows. Budget around Y5000-7500 for ample food and drink, and don't forget to check out the set menus and free-drink plans. Our only (minor) complaint is the rather early closing time - last order is ten pm, and they officially kick you out at ten-thirty. Most of the menu is translated into English.

by Robb Satterwhite