One of the first things we noticed at L'Artemis was the surprising selection of eaux-de-vie - some twenty bottles of flavored spirits in a decorative counter-top line-up. And not just the usual pear and cherry brandies, either - there were asparagus and lavender and other unexpected flavors. The countertop bottles are purely for show, we learned - the actual serving bottles are stored well below zero in a big freezer, as is only proper. But even more impressive is L'Artemis's huge cellar of wines - hundreds of bottles from all regions of France, with a large, multi-page wine list to help guide you through the choices.

The list covers every price range, and you'll find good value for money at every level, whether your wine budget is Y4000 or Y20,000. You can be assured that even if you're splurging at a higher price level, the food here is more than a match for the drink. It's top-class modern French cooking, prepared by an enthusiastic young chef (Yusuke Nakada by name) who recently returned from years of apprenticeship in the kitchens of France. This is clearly some of the best French cooking in central Tokyo at this price range (three-course prix-fixe dinners are just Y4000).

We started a recent dinner with complimentary flutes of Champagne and miniature tartlets stuffed with an olive and mushroom tapenade - a nice welcoming touch while we perused the menu. The Y4000 menu includes a starter, main and dessert, and bumping up to Y5250 gets you an additional starter, although we found the portions of the 3-course dinner more than enough for all but the most ravenous appetite. And while all the food we've tried has been very good, the truly spectacular dishes have all been recommendations of the waiter, so we strongly recommend following his advice.

One of those stunning dishes was a crab and avocado cappucino, a warm and frothy concoction served elegantly in a glass cup. We also enjoyed a remarkable smoked salmon - top-quality Scottish salmon just lightly smoked, with a freshness of flavor that made all the other smoked salmon we've had in Tokyo seem insipid by comparison.

The main courses tend to be meat-centered, although there's always one fish dish of the day. Our sauteed rockfish filet was quite nicely done, moist and flavorful, and covered with crunchy baked wild rice. We also enjoyed the roast pork - small-farm-raised "kurobuta" ("black pork") from Kyushu - although some might find it a wee bit on the fatty side. The duck confit, on the other hand, was rather less oily than some versions around town - nicely textured with a very crisp skin and tender meat. All dishes came with perfectly crisp vegetables on the side.

The desserts live up to the same high standards as the rest of the menu, and we particularly enjoyed the lemon souffle (the souffle changes every day). Service is professional and quite competent. The dining room is relatively small, and the atmosphere is a tad more formal than in your typical bistrot, although not uncomfortably so. Big picture-glass windows look onto a quiet Jingumae side-street. And while most of the bars and restaurants nearby cater to a neighborhood fashion-industry crowd, L'Artemis is really a restaurant for the whole city - well worth travelling across town for. (If you do happen to be in the neighborhood though, the Y1500 lunch is worth a try.)

By the way, if you'd prefer an after-dinner alternative to eau-de-vie, the well-stocked Belgian beer bar called Binimaru is just downstairs, in the basement of the same building.