Kurobutaya is a friendly, upbeat izakaya with a stylish flair that sets it apart from run-of-the-mill drinking spots. Distinguishing them even further is their unique menu - they specialize in pork, specifically the "kurobuta" breed that's the most famous of Japan's name-brand pigs. Originally from England, the breed is also known as Berkshire pork, and it's prized for its distinctive flavor and its ample marbling, which gives it a juiciness not found in ordinary pork.

The food here covers the full range of Japanese pork cuisine, from stews and stir-fries to deep-fried tonkatsu and Chinese-influenced gyoza and shumai dumplings. But simple charcoal grilling may be the best way to appreciate the full flavors of the meat, and there are several excellent grilled options to choose from. Our favorites include the thinly sliced bara-niku and the incredible spare ribs. The latter come slathered in a tasty barbecue sauce that is on the sweet side and closer to Chinese barbecue than Texas style. (The recipe includes oyster sauce, star anise and pineapple juice.) Don't miss them.

There are usually one or two homemade sausages on the daily specials board, and these are also worth a try. Selections from the stew section include a version of kakuni (Kyushu-style stewed pork chunks) that's far leaner than might be expected, and a rich tofu and pork stew. The side dishes are also well thought out - a kinpira spiced up by with hair-thin slivers of red pepper, and fantastic sliced cucumbers flavored with sesame and breathtaking amounts of garlic.

The drinks menu includes a wide assortment of shochu, plus six different kinds of umeshu (plum wine), an unusually large selection. There are only two sake, both from Niigata, but they're well chosen to match the rich pork flavors. The two Spanish red wines available by the glass are also sturdy enough to stand up to the food.

Shochu is actually a major theme of the decor - a recessed shelf filled with shochu bottles runs the entire length of the shop, and more bottles line the back walls over the bar. Tables here have more elbow room than in a typical izakaya, and there's a stylish tall counter-style table with high stools to accommodate medium-sized groups. The overall atmosphere is casual and lively but also sophisticated - the customers here clearly appreciate the high quality of the food and drink on offer, while the staff are knowledgeable and helpful.