Excellent grilled meats and flamboyantly expensive New World wines in the Grand Hyatt's flagship restaurant. Our steak dinner report is below:

Steak: US Certified Angus Tenderloin (285g; Y5800) - tender, flavorful, nicely prepared (red in the center, but beautifully charred on the outside, with a bit of black-pepper flavoring. It was spectacular by itself, but it came with four sauces on the side - green pepper, red-wine, mushroom and fresh horseradish. No vegetables. (There's also a 285g Angus sirloin at Y4800, New Zealand tenderloin, and several domestic-beef choices.)

Sides/starters: Decent roast mushrooms, "flash-fried" onion rings and spicy crab cakes (but with a somewhat bland sauce), and fantastic roast asparagus with tomato vinagrette.

Wines: You'll find plenty of impressive Australian and California choices at Y20,000 and up (reaching way up into the stratosphere). It your wine budget is under Y10,000 though, you'll be looking at a handful of bottles from Chile and South Africa. (We managed to find a drinkable Argentine syrah for Y5500 - one of the cheapest on the list.)

Ambience: Much nicer than average for a hotel dining room (it's in the Grand Hyatt), with a big open bar and wine cellar at one end and an open kitchen with wood-burning ovens stretched out across the back of the room. Slightly over-helpful service, and a hint of international-hotel anonymity.