Whenever we want to illustrate how Tokyo has become a world-class city for dining, we can simply point to places like Cicada to make our case. The Mediterranean-cuisine kitchen is first-rate, with cooking that's innovative yet somehow familiar and comforting at the same time. The service is friendly and personal - a splash of Sicilian sunshine in the depths of trendy Tokyo. All in all, an evening at Cicada holds the promise of an exciting dining experience - both the menu and wine list are filled with pleasant surprises.

The organization of the menu is the first sign of an ambitious agenda - it starts with small tapas-sized dishes to nibble on, followed by salamis, hams, and an impressive selection of cheeses (of the goat, cow and sheep varieties). In addition to the usual salads you'll find a page of vegetable-centered (but not necessarily vegetarian) dishes. There are unfiltered olive oils from four different countries, with lovingly detailed tasting notes.

The food itself runs the gamut from Spanish and Portuguese to Moroccan, Greek and southern Italian. One thing many of the dishes share is a natural spiciness - something that's too often toned down in non-Asian restaurants here. For example, the cauliflower with ziti and mint delivers a nice punch of garlic and spices, as does the wonderful fava bean and artichoke combo. The Moroccan spicy crab cakes are some of the best we've ever had, moist and richly flavored with cilantro and other herbs and a very piquant sauce. Morocco is also represented by a trio of spicy tajine-style stews (lamb, chicken and fish), prepared variously with dates, preserved lemons, olives and mounds of cous cous.

The chef here (David Chiddo of TY Harbor Brewery fame) often uses ingredients in intriguing combinations, but in a way that seems natural rather than strained or show-offy. The dates wrapped in bacon on top of parmesan slabs are one such inspired coupling; the cake with crushed almonds and candied mandarin orange is another. The excellent grilled lamb chops are subtly enlivened by anchovy and rosemary.

Hearty, robust flavors call for equally assertive wines, and the list here doesn't disappoint. It's big - some 25 wines by the glass, over 100 by the bottle - and there are some great finds in the Y5000-and-under range. The selection is entirely Old World - knowledegable choices from Rioja and Langedoc-Roussillon, Sicily and Tuscany, plus over a dozen sherries (almost all available by the glass). The wine cellar itself is an architectural focal point, and the liberal by-the-glass policy means that you can take your time plumbing its depths.

The dining room feels warm and inviting, modern but not too design-heavy. Large floor-to-ceiling windows look out onto the street and add an element of interaction with the Nishi-Azabu neighborhood. There's a large separate bar area if you just want a glass of wine and some tapas, or if you like to smoke between courses (the rest of the restaurant is smoke-free). We prefer the fireplace in the main dining area though, and we're looking forward to sipping some sherry by the fire once the weather gets a bit cooler.

by Robb Satterwhite