Now that Vietnamese spring rolls and pho are practically staples in chic Tokyo cafes, it wasn't too surprising to hear about this latest evidence of Indochina trendiness - a Vietnamese dining bar. "We", a tiny spot hidden away in the back streets of Ebisu, promises "Tokyo-style Modern Vietnamese cuisine", and the kitchen delivers on the promise with inventive cooking and craftsman-like presentation.

The food here occupies a middle ground between elaborate French-influenced Vietnamese grand cuisine and the down-to-earth noodle-shop fare that's so commonly found in Tokyo. The centerpiece of the appetizer menu is We's selection of original spring rolls - a showcase for fillings like marinated scallops with a tangy apple dressing and the highly recommended tamarind chicken with cumin sauce. Another appetizing starter is the water chestnut and tofu dumplings with yuzu - deep-fried balls filled with finely minced water chestnuts, mushroom and other ingredients, coated with crunchy little strips of fried yuba (tofu skin) and served with a garlicky, slightly citrus-infused sauce.

The attractive presentation of the dishes owes more to a kaiseki sensibility than to French tradition, with the servingware carefully selected to show off each dish. We were very impressed by the look of our assorted vegetables - ten different representatives of the vegetable kingdom variously toasted, boiled and sauteed, all artfully arrayed on an attractive platter and drizzled with a piquant sauce. Soup options include a coriander-seasoned broccoli potage and a lemon-ginger-flavored pumpkin cream soup. Main dishes are reasonably sized, with choices like prawns in "1973 sauce" (We's jokey translation of "sauce americaine"), and excellent roast free-range chicken, which comes with either a spicy coconut milk-based sauce or an orange-mango sauce with subtle hints of five-spice flavoring. An extra dollop of coriander leaves is available in many of the dishes for an extra Y50 surcharge, and it's worth the splurge.

The cozy setting is very much that of a "dining bar", with intimate spaces spread out over two levels. Drink orders are taken as soon as you arrive, and the wine list is reasonably priced, with a house wine (Australia's Rawson's Retreat - Y3300/bottle) well suited to the food. Alternatively, Tiger beer is Y700 a bottle. If you're in for a full meal, the six-course dinner is Y3300 (two appetizers, salad, main, noodles, dessert); otherwise, a budget of Y3000-4000 should provide a good amount of food and drink.

by Robb Satterwhite