This is an upscale branch of one of Tokyo's more successful tempura restaurants; the first shop opened in 1924 and there are now more than 30 locations. And while even the average Tsunahachi branch serves high-quality tempura, Rin set themselves apart with their entertainingly elaborate presentation and their beautifully appointed interior.

Rin's lavish attention to detail starts with the condiments, of which there are many. The basic set includes the expected grated daikon and tsuyu dipping sauce, plus an additional mound of ume-flavored grated daikon that's eaten without sauce. Then there's a tiny serving dish with four different types of salt: greenish clumps of parsley-flavored salt, coarse rock salt, and two colorful powdered salts flavored with yuzu (a citrus fruit) and wakame seaweed.

During the meal each course comes with additional condiments, along with detailed instructions for their use. For example the raw vegetable plate (avocado, lotus root and tomato during a recent visit) comes with a tangy sesame dressing, a gourmet vinegar and oil, and yet another special salt, this one containing finely powdered shrimp shells. Needless to say, the artfully arranged vegetables themselves were picture perfect, ready to appear in the pages of a food magazine.

There are a few dinner menus to choose from, starting at Y3500 (for 9 pieces of tempura plus odds and ends). There's also a good-sized a la carte sampling of seasonal dishes - both fried and fresh. The prix-fixe meals are certainly the easier way to go, but we were glad that we supplemented ours with some of the more tempting seasonal items - the tempura-fried bamboo shoots, udo (a fragrant, fleshy mountain vegetable) and green asparagus were some of the high points of our meal. (Other highlights included tiny sweetfish balanced on little legs fashioned from tempura batter; very tender eel; and a fantastic kinako-flavored pudding.)

The drinks menu continues Rin's theme of studied perfectionism - besides the usual chilled sake there's an even wider choice of warm sake. "How warm?" you ask? Well, for each particular sake the menu specifies one of four different temperatures, calculated to best bring out its full flavors. We opted for simplicity (and more immediate gratification) with a cold serving of Uragasumi, which was poured from an old-fashioned iron pot. We thought the subtle flavors went well with the fish and seafood items, although some people might prefer the earthier textures of the Tsukasabotan (also served cold). Beer and wine are other options.

The counter is the best place to sit if possible - it's wider than average (so it's not at all cramped), and sitting there allows you to watch every step in the painstaking preparation of your meal. And of course your tempura will be piping hot when it arrives. Tsunahachi Rin is part of the architecturally adventurous Shunkan complex just above Shinjuku station (and just a few blocks from the rustic main branch), and the imaginative decor provides a stunning setting for their great food.