The stand-up bar at the front of Il Bacaro has a nice casual feel to it. You can drop in for a few minutes, have a quick glass of wine and a tiny snack, and be on your way. Or you can claim a seat at one of the three small tables and linger awhile, directing your attention to some of the dozen or so wines served by the glass. Cold appetizer trays line the counter, an espresso machine grinds away in the background, and dancehall reggae or pop music plays on the stereo. Waiters from the main dining room come and go with drink orders, and customers drift in and out. Snatches of Italian can be heard from time to time.

The appetizers on display are called "cichetti" - think of them as bite-size Venetian tapas - and you can choose from a couple dozen varieties to go with your wine. It's all simple stuff like roast eggplant, roast potatoes with rosemary, baked tomatoes, and thick asparagus spears, plus mussels, sardines and other seafood and some excellent prosciutto. The prices contribute to the casual vibe - most food items are Y50 to Y100 (for small portions, naturally), while wines run Y200-580 a glass.

Some of those wines are interesting discoveries, and you may find yourself springing for a full bottle next time you're dining here. You see, besides the lively counter area, Il Bacaro also offers a couple of spacious dining rooms and a full Italian menu. And although you can't order your asparagus by the spear in the restaurant section, you can start your meal with a nice cichetti platter that features the best of the day's selection. Alternatively, if you find yourself lingering at the front counter longer than expected, you can round off your appetizers with a pasta or a lamb chop from the regular menu before heading off into the night.