Somehow Yum Yum feels like it's the best restaurant in some small provincial town. Maybe it's the big parking lot, or the conservatively decorated multiple dining rooms, or the silly, non-focus-grouped name. Or maybe it's just the comfortable, completely unpretentious atmosphere. Whatever - if Yum Yum actually were in a small town it would have to be one with a great fish market. Seafood is the specialty here, and the quality is first-rate.

Yum Yum's cuisine is billed as southern French (Provencal to be specific), and dinner choices include not one but two different takes on bouillabaisse, along with a handful of other fish and meat dishes. On a recent visit we enjoyed an excellent grilled madai (sea bream) - perfectly done with crisp skin and moist, tender meat. It was nicely complemented by creamy scalloped potatoes and sweet red pimentos. Our pork steak with crushed pepper didn't skimp on the peppercorns, nor did the garlic bread skimp on the garlic.

The grilled scallops were also pleasantly garlicky, served on shells with bits of sauteed spinach. The duck liver pate was rich but not overwhelming, served with good warm bread and tangy rocket leaves. The service was professional but low-key. The wine list is quite limited - just a handful of bottles - and we strongly suggest that you bring your own. The management seems to encourage this by prominently listing the corkage fee on the wine menu (it's Y1500/bottle). You can think of this as an opportunity to enjoy your favorite wines at almost-retail-store prices, without the bother of cooking up a meal to go with them.

Yum Yum is in Shibaura, equidistant from JR Tamachi station and Takeshiba station on the Yurikamome line (about a 15-minute walk or a quick cab ride from either). It's also easy to get to by car, and free parking is usually available. Dinner runs around Y2500-4000 without drinks.