Gomaya, a venture of the Shimo-kitazawa-based Jackpot chain, serves up its own very original take on "neo-Japonesque" cuisine.

The menu starts off with izakaya-ready standards like oden, nira-manjuu gyouza, and daily sashimi specials, but moves on to more international influences - duck a l'orange, grilled garlic chicken, a beautifully executed spinach-and-seared-bluefin salad.

The decor is tasteful, minimalist Japanese (mud-colored walls, bamboo ceiling slats) with comfortable and well-spaced tables. Drinks include a small but well-chosen sake list plus a nice selection of New World wines.

Prices are very reasonable - roughly Y3,000-4,500 per person, depending on drinks. All in all, a very value-conscious choice for casual central-Shibuya dining.

Open till 4am weekends.

by Michael Ainge