The room is an unpretentious little basement with a long counter and six tiny tables, but the food is simply superb - creative, light-hearted French cuisine prepared by a master.

The foie gras on daikon appetizer features large slabs of foie gras and lightly stewed daikon, perfectly balanced in flavor. There's also an outstanding foie gras and duck confit main course served in a bed of mashed potatoes and leeks, and rather amazing lamb chops in mustard sauce.

Some of the desserts, like the banana flambee, are a major theatrical production. The best deal is Y3500 for a three-course dinner that you'd expect to pay much more for. Wines start at Y2500 and reach very high levels. Lunches start at Y1000.