Nandocho 22. [around the corner from Carmine, just off Chuo-dori] Open noon-1:30, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
: No smoking
A tiny neighborhood hideaway with well-prepared but very conservative and predictable French food. Dinner is Y3,900 or Y5,900, and the wine list starts at Y5,000, with some half-bottles available. Ask them for directions -- it's rather hard to find the first time.