Solid, self-assured new American cuisine and an inspired selection of 40 California wines in an exuberantly urban setting. The culinary influences are more European than Asian, and memorable past dishes have included rack of lamb with dried fig sauce, enticing okra-shrimp spring rolls, and huge, succulent scallop appetizers.

The venue is small but plush, with terra-cotta-colored walls and distinctive wall murals, open-beam ceilings and a beautiful glass-fronted walk-in wine cellar. In the evening the prix-fixe dinner is Y5500, and wines start at Y3500, with even premium labels very nicely priced.