When autumn comes to Japan and the days start getting cooler, a cherished seasonal sight is the return of oden stalls to city sidewalks.

Oden is a very simple stew made by simmering fish dumplings, fried tofu, eggs, and vegetables in a kelp-based stock for several hours. It's a popular and inexpensive cold-weather nourishment, and every night tiny sidewalk stands descend on train station plazas and entertainment districts to meet the demand. Sidewalk stalls usually feature a tiny counter with four or five stools and a portable stove for heat. Customers can choose their favorite fish cakes and other ingredients from a large serving pot, and wash them down with beer or sake while keeping warm around the stove. Outdoor oden stalls are extremely down-to-earth: One oden connoisseur interviewed claims that it's impossible to find a more informal setting short of actually sitting in the gutter.

If you want to try oden without roughing it, there are oden specialty shops, and oden can also be found at izakaya-style pubs, other restaurants and even convenience stores. You can either select your favorite items or order a standard assortment. A la carte items include daikon (white radish), potatoes, kelp, transparent cakes made from kon'nyaku (devil's tongue starch), and fukuro (fried tofu pouches stuffed with chopped mushrooms and noodles). There's also a selection of fish cakes such as chikuwa -- made by molding fish paste into a tubular shape, steaming it, and finally grilling it. The fish cakes are made from fish that aren't so popular on their own, such as shark, flying fish and pollack.

Oden is usually served with a dab of strong mustard. At first oden might seem bland, but it's something of an acquired taste. While the flavors are a bit subtle, oden fans appreciate the contrasting textures of the different ingredients as well as the flavor of the broth, which improves with time as it soaks up various flavors. Oden is usually served in the fall and winter, but it's sometimes available during warmer months as well.