Yotsuya/ Ichigaya
Picks:
Western: Cucina Amano (Italian); Maison Cache-Cache (French)
Japanese: Dodo (yakitori)
Ethnic: Shisen Hanten (Szechuan); Romina (Peruvian); Dipmahal (Indian),
Brunch: Kojimachi Cafe
Budget: Petit Feu A La Campagne (curry); Thien Phuoc (Vietnamese); Banchan no Shubo (Szechuan)
Drinks: rum at Trader Vic's; sake at Sakaoto and Asama; wine at La Taperia and Da Salice
Outdoor: Aux Bacchanales (Kioicho)
Note: This guide covers the neighborhoods of Yotsuya 3-chome and Akebonobashi (and the popular strip along Gaien-Higashi-dori), Yotsuya station, and Kojimachi and Bancho up to Ichigaya station.
Yotsuya 3-chome/ Akebonobashi
Kaiji (Japanese regional). 3357-3789 Specialties from Yamanashi, including houtou noodles and raw horsemeat, in a tiny, mom-and-pop-run shop. No English spoken.  Aizumicho 3. (on a tiny side street; turn right one block west of the fire station) Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO). Closed weekends. Inexpensive yakiniku.  Yotsuya 3-11. (Located above KFC on Shinjuku-dori, just west of Yotsuya 3-chome station) Open 4:30-11pm (LO) daily. Simple, down-home Vietnamese food prepared extremely well. Their deep-fried ichiba harumaki (market spring rolls) are crunchy and flavorful; other highlights are fried tofu stuffed with beef and an excellent pho noodle soup, listed on the menu as gyuniku udon. They serve 333 and Saigon beers, but don't miss trying a bottle of the eye-opening Chang beer from Thailand. The final bill comes in at a very modest Y2,000-Y2,500 per person. Yotsuya 3-11. (on the north side of Shinjuku-dori, one block west of the Yotsuya 3-chome station, just past the koban) Open 11am-3, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays. Oysters and himono (grilled dried fish) are the specialty here, along with a huge selection of sake. The sake is served in small portions for Y300-400, so you can try a number of different types. Yotsuya 3-11, Dai-ni Komyodo Bldg B1F. Open 5-9:30pm (LO; Sat 3-8pm). Closed Sundays. | |
A tiny (14-seat) second-floor bar specializing in craft beers from around Japan. The atmosphere is laid-back (there's a muted TV set along with loungey background music), and the crowd is very local. The selection of beers seems to change by the week, and often the five taps will feature several different beers from the same brewery. All beers are Y1000 a pint, and there's a limited menu of bar snacks (sausages, cheese) to go along. Arakicho 1, Ichibankan Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Tuesdays. | |
"Jamon y vino" is the simple yet enticing concept at this small tapas bar, with Spanish wines starting at around Y3800 per bottle. Typical dishes include Iberico chorizo sausages, Catalan-style pizzas, and grilled meats and seafood on skewers. The food is great, but the pace of delivery can be somewhat leisurely. Budget around Y4000 for food and drink.  Arakicho 1, Nakabayashi Bldg 1F. Open 6pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
This small neighborhood counter-only bar offers over 200 French, Spanish and Italian wines by the bottle. There's also a good daily selection of wines by the glass, priced from Y600. The Italian-inspired food menu includes light antipasti, daily meat, fish and pasta dishes, and a special uni spaghetti; budget around Y2000-3500 for food at dinnertime. Weekday-only lunch is Y850. Arakicho 1-2. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
Above-average curries and tandoori dishes, at good prices. Yotsuya 3-3, Stream Yotsuya 2F. (from Yotsuya 3-chome walk towards Yotsuya sta, take the second left; the shop is on the right a few doors in) Open 11am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Excellent Spanish cooking, including a good variety of tapas dishes; the spicy lamb kebabs are especially recommended. Service is friendly, and the decor is casual and cheerful, with bright yellow tablecloths, bullfighting posters and Spanish music adding to the atmosphere. Yotsuya 3-3, Stream Yotsuya B1F. (from Yotsuya 3-chome walk towards Yotsuya sta, take the second left; the shop is on the right a few doors in) Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
Excellent traditional French cooking in a comfortable, smoke-free dining space reminiscent of a provincial French inn. [See FULL REVIEW.]  Wakaba 2-7, Video Focus Bldg 1F. Open noon-2, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
First-rate French cuisine and very reasonably priced wines. The setting is rather minimal - old-fashioned coffee-shop decor in a well-used basement space, with just a counter and a few tables. Budget around Y6000-8000 for food and drinks. Yotsuya 3-1, Suga Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
There's a good selection of sake to go with your grilled himono (dried fish) and other izakaya fare, all at quite reasonable prices. Lunch is served until 4pm. Yotsuya 3-2-2, TR Bldg B1F. Open 11am-1am (LO; Sat, Sun -12) daily. | |
A popular spot for local Yotsuya diners, Aubergine offers a good assortment of European-style Japanese curries, including two-ingredient combination platters. The shrimp and chicken combo (Y1580) had a sweetish, rich sauce; ample portions of well-prepared chicken; plump, flavorful shrimps; mushrooms and a tiny quail egg. Curries come with excellent homemade cole slaw. A popular spot for local Yotsuya diners, Aubergine offers a good assortment of European-style Japanese curries, including two-ingredient combination platters.
The shrimp and chicken combo (Y1580) had a sweetish, rich sauce; ample portions of well-prepared chicken; plump, flavorful shrimps; mushrooms and a tiny quail egg. Curries come with excellent homemade cole slaw.
There are two other branches (Mita and Tsukiji), and together they deliver through large swaths of Tokyo. Prices range from Y1260-1575, and take-out is available. [Show more] [Show less] Yotsuya 3-1, Fukushima Bldg 2F. Open 11am-3, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
This tiny second-floor bar has a Buddhist theme - the name in Japanese is "bouzu", or Buddhist priest - with a little shrine in one corner and bartenders dressed in appropriate priestly garb. Drinks include several variations on shochu and plum wine, and there's a small food menu to go with your drinks. Arakicho 6-42, AG Bldg 2F. Open 7pm-midnight. Closed Sundays. | |
Asama (Izakaya). 3355-2977 The sign outside this old-school sake pub entices with the promise of jizake - local sake - and makes good on that offer. On Friday nights, the crowd consists mainly of beer-drinking salarymen, but Asama is a great place for those who love sake. The sign outside this old-school sake pub entices with the promise of jizake - local sake - and makes good on that offer. On Friday nights, the crowd consists mainly of beer-drinking salarymen, but Asama is a great place for those who love sake.
A good starting point for novices is the Y500 sake list, which features a selection of brews from producers such as Kudoki Jozu and Kariho. More seasoned drinkers will find several varieties of limited-edition sake and premium brands like Juyondai and Azuma-ichi. If you need help navigating the three-page sake menu, proprietor Tomohisa Hatakeyama will make recommendations for you based on your preferences.
The food menu features tasty izakaya standards such as grilled tebasaki chicken wings and crispy vegetable tempura, all prepared in the impossibly tiny kitchen at the back. [Show more] [Show less] Yotsuya 3-7. Open 5-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
This small neighborhood izakaya has just eight counter seats, but they offer one of Tokyo's better selections of limited-edition sake. The list changes weekly, with fresh new arrivals direct from small breweries around the country. The three-part tasting set (Y1500) is a good place to start. They also serve Japanese microbrew beers, and a wide selection of excellent grilled fish. Budget around Y5000-7000 for food and drinks (including table charge); cash only. On Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday they offer a fresh pasta lunch for Y500. Arakicho 7-1-6, Ask Arakicho 2F. Open 11:30am-3, 6pm-1am. Closed Sundays. | |
 Dodo (Yakitori). 3356-8403 Memorable charcoal-grilled yakitori for Y4,000 to Y8,000 per person (with drinks). They've got an interesting sake list, including multiple variations from Kubota and other small brewers. Funamachi 12. (on Gaien-Higashi-dori) Open 6pm-5am (Sat. to 11pm). Closed Sundays. | |
This tiny bookshelf-lined cafe-bar offers Czech food and beer as well as Polish and other Eastern European fare. Menu items include bramborak potato pancakes, goulash made with beer, Moravian-style roast pork and homemade cornbread. Funamachi 7, Tajima Bldg 201. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays. | |
Innovative cuisine, friendly service, and the feel of a comfortable neighborhood bistro. The food menu promises adventure, with tastes ranging from sea urchin and ikura with green tea noodles to Louisiana shrimp. Innovative Pacific Rim cuisine, convenient late-night hours, friendly service, and a large, well-chosen New World wine list. The atmosphere has the feel of a comfortable neighborhood bistro.
The food menu promises adventure, with tastes ranging from sea urchin and ikura with green tea noodles to Louisiana shrimp. The richly flavored grilled venison makes a dramatic starter, and the garlicky Caesar salad with aged mimolette is well above average. The cod in red almond curry is also very impressive, with a Thai-style curry sauce that nicely balances the other flavors and ingredients without overwhelming them. The wine list has several good selections in the under-Y6000 category, plus several varieties by the glass. Budget around Y5000-7500 for dinner and drinks. [Show more] [Show less] | |
Well-prepared Chinese standards and some Szechuan-style noodle dishes, with a mostly neighborhood crowd. Funamachi 8. (above Fairfax Grill) Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily. First-rate, creative Italian cooking in a small and unpretentious dining room. The menu is ever-changing, but some favorite dishes have included cauliflower panna cotta topped with sea urchin; crayfish terrine with caviar; souffle-style lobster and leek in a lobster bisque; foie gras and quail stuffed with porcini mushrooms; and pasta with wild-boar ragu. Budget around Y7000 for dinner; wines start at Y3000. Tomihisacho 8-27. Open noon-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays. | |
Yotsuya
This second branch of Tokyo's Portuguese pioneer restaurant is far more upscale than the Shibuya original, with spacious, comfortable dining rooms (smoking and non) a bigger, more serious menu, and a sommelier. Recommendations include the rabbit stewed in red wine and the potato and dried cod croquettes. The wine list includes both "traditional" and "international" Portuguese wines, depending on your tastes (we prefer the latter). Budget Y5,000-8,000 for dinner, depending on your choice of drinks. There's live folk music some nights - call to check. [Go to branch review] Rokubancho 11-7, B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO) daily. | |
Good pastries and plenty of outdoor seating. Yotsuya 1-5-25, Atre Yotsuya 2F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
European-style bread, pastries, and a big assortment of sandwiches to go. Yotsuya 1-5-25, Atre Yotsuya 2F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm daily. | |
A legendary old-school Tokyo French restaurant that's been here forever. Lunch from Y6,000, dinner from Y14,000. Wakaba 1-18. Open noon-1:30, 6-9pm. Closed Sundays. A well-stocked sake specialty store; don't miss the refrigerated rooms down in the basement. There's also a stand-up bar in back with around a dozen sake by the glass along with simple, inexpensive bar food. Yotsuya 1-10. Open 9am-9pm. Closed Sundays. | |
Authentic Egyptian cuisine prepared by native chefs. Lunch starts at Y850, with a nice Y1800 lunch platter that includes a main dish plus chicken and kofta kebabs, salads, soup, dessert and beverage. Prix-fixe dinners from Y5000 or a la carte. Belly dancing on Friday and Saturday nights. Saneicho 1, Horiuchi Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holidays. | |
Beef tongue is the specialty here, grilled or stewed. Saneicho 16. Open 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
Dozens of sake brands from around the country, along with mom's home cooking (assuming your mother runs an izakaya). Yotsuya 1-3, B1F. (on Shinjuku-dori west of the Yotsuya station) Open 5-11:30pm. Closed Sundays. | |
Brilliant Peruvian food and drinks at relatively inexpensive prices. Try their vanilla flan for dessert, if you still have room. There's also a big lunch menu. (Avoid Sunday nights if you don't like big crowds.) Yotsuya 1-7-27, Central Yotsuya Bldg. 2F. Open 5-11pm. Closed Wednesdays. Solid Tex-Mex food and friendly service. | |
This casual bistro offers value-priced wines and meaty Mediterranean snacks late into the night. The spacious basement dining room has a warm feel to it - heavy on the wood and brick, with floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with wine bottles surrounding the tables. This casual bistro offers value-priced wines and meaty Mediterranean snacks late into the night. The spacious basement dining room has a warm feel to it - heavy on the wood and brick, with floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with wine bottles surrounding the tables.
Some fifty wines are available by the bottle, starting at just Y2500, with twelve poured by the glass. The food menu offers simple but satisfying fare like pork rillettes, assorted hams, country-style cassoulets, and tapas favorites like garlic-sauteed shrimp and mushrooms. [Show more] [Show less] | |
A tiny neighborhood place with well-prepared French food. There are only 4 or 5 tables, split between two levels, so be sure to call ahead. Yotsuya 2-3-19. Open 11:45am-2, 5:45-9:15pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holidays. | |
Good Chinese cooking, including spicy Szechuan stir-fries and Shanghai-style fried gyoza dumplings and noodles. Budget around Y3500 at dinnertime. Yotsuya 2-3-6, Palm Yotsuya B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holidays. | |
Kioicho/ Kojimachi/ Ichigaya
Excellent Szechuan-style cuisine - both spicy and non-spicy, in a spacious dining room. Prix-fixe dinners start at around Y6300, but lunch (from Y1260) is a real bargain. Hirakawacho 2-5-5, Zenkoku Ryokan Kaikan 5/6F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9pm (LO) daily. | |
If you'd like some scenery with your beverage, the Garden Lounge of the Hotel New Otani in Chiyoda-ku offers a stunning, panoramic view of a 400-year-old, perfectly maintained Japanese garden. Let your senses be transported to a different era as you enjoy a varied selection of coffees, teas, and seasonal desserts. Prices tend to be high, but the garden is a must-see. Kioicho 4-1, Hotel New Otani 1F. Open 6am-midnight daily. A branch of the long-established, highly regarded sushi shop in Ginza that invented gunkan-maki (sushi wrapped in nori strips, "battleship" style). There are two branches in the New Otani, one in the main building and one in the tower, both on the lobby level. Lunch is priced Y3150-Y15,750; dinner is Y6300-24,150. They also do take-out. Kioicho 4-1, Hotel New Otani 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm daily. Probably best known in Tokyo for their popular Y6,600 "Champagne Brunch" on Sundays, featuring all the sparkling wine you can drink. (The bar/restaurant area is open later than the main dining room; last order is at 12:30am.) Kioicho 4-1, Hotel New Otani 4F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5pm-12:30am (LO) daily. | |
A bright and airy branch of this French-cafe landmark, located directly in front of the New Otani Hotel. There's a take-out bakery at the entrance, a big cafe area, a smaller dining room for proper French meals, and plenty of outdoor seating, heated in winter. Lunches in the dining room start at Y850; full-course dinners from Y3800. The cafe serves light snacks like quiche, omelettes, salade nicoise and steak frites. Kioicho 4-1, Shin-Kioicho Bldg. 1F. Open 10am-11pm daily. | |
Modern Szechuan and Shanghai-style Chinese cuisine, with good fried gyoza dumplings and noodles. Budget around Y3500 at dinnertime. Hirakawacho 1-5-2, Aoki Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
One might expect this sort of sprawling, relaxed cafe in a neighborhood like Koenji or Naka-Meguro, but it's a surprising find in a business district like Hanzomon. Weekend brunch is served Saturdays only, from noon-4:30pm, with choices like pancakes, Eggs Benedict made with good-quality prosciutto, plus more lunchy items like pasta and veggie burgers. Individual dishes are well prepared, but brunch as a whole lacks the extra touches - pastries, muffins, juice, coffee refills - that would make you want to linger. Kojimachi 1-5-4. Open 11:30am-11pm (Sat. noon-4:30pm). Closed Sundays. | |
Elio (Italian). 3239-6771 Solid southern Italian cooking for special occasions or weekend splurges. The food is simple but flawless, the service is friendly and professional, and the room is comfortably rustic. Dinner Y8,000-15,000 per person. Kojimachi 2-5-2. Open 11:45am-2:15, 5:45-10:15pm(LO). Closed Sundays. | |
A deluxe-level izakaya with great food and a wide sake selection, including 17 types from the Juuyondai brewery alone. The dining room is very spacious, but it can still get smoky as the evening wears on. Kojimachi 3-4. (above exit 3, Kojimachi station) Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-10:45pm (LO food). Closed Saturdays, Sundays. | |
The "black rabbit" is a lively after-work pub serving tasty Okinawan food and drink (especially their stir-fry dishes). Prices run around Y500-700 for small dishes. They also have branches in Hamamatsucho (Yamanekoya) and Okinawa. [Go to branch review] Kojimachi 4-8, B1F. Open 11am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
A good selection of meats and produce, and some imported products from the US. Kojimachi 5-4. Open 24 hours a day. | |
Ajanta (Indian). 3264-4255, 3264-6955 A huge menu, great food, a surprising variety of different breads, and extremely convenient hours. | |
This off-the-beaten-track shop on a Hanzomon side street serves some of Tokyo's better European-style Japanese curries. The mixed curry with chicken, pork and beef is especially recommended - the meats are tender and skillfully prepared, the sauce rich and spicy. Curries come with a good-size helping of boiled potatoes. The coffeeshop decor is nicer than average, although it can get smoky when crowded. Ichibancho 8-13. Open 11:30am-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
Lunch Y920 (to 3pm), dinner from Y2,700. Take-out also available. Kojimachi 2-14, 1/2F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily. This very stylish "restaurant and library cafe" serves Greek- and Mediterranean-influenced French food, with an emphasis on seafood. In the daytime there's a nice view out over the greenery of the Imperial Palace grounds. Prix-fixe dinners from Y6000, lunch from Y1640.  Kojimachi 1-4-2, One Four Two by Tojo 9F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
Yamaya (Liquor shop). 3511-2501 A discount wine shop with a good selection. Kojimachi 1-6-2. (on Shinjuku-dori near Hanzomon station) Open 10am-10pm daily. Yakiniku, bulgogi, yaki-udon and natto yukke are some of the Korean specialties served here. They also offer a number of different party plans that include an open bar. Budget around Y5000 at dinnertime. No lunch on weekends. Sanbancho 1. (above Tony Roma's) Open 11am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO). Open every day. | |
An American chain specializing in ribs. Sanbancho 1. Open 11:45am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
Tasty, sometimes unusual pizzas and well-constructed pastas at this budget Italian cafe chain. Open all afternoon. Gobancho 2. Open 7am-11:30pm (Sat, Sun 11am-) daily. | |
A tasty assortment of healthy Japanese dishes and excellent Belgian beer. Rokubancho 4, Asahi Rokubancho Mansion 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 4:30-9pm. Closed Sundays. | |
Pauke (German). 3264-7890 Traditional, meaty German fare along with live music. Yonbancho 4-8, B1F. Open 5pm-2am (LO 1:30). Closed Sundays and holidays. Excellent-quality modern French cuisine at this elegant bistrot-restaurant. Chef Olivier was a veteran of La Tour d'Argent in Paris and the Cordon Bleu cooking school in Tokyo before opening his namesake restaurant. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5800 and Y8000 (or order a la carte), and the wine list offers some reasonably priced options under Y6000. Budget around Y10,000-12,000 with drinks. Lunches start at Y1575; no lunch on Saturday. Kudan-Minami 4-1-10. Open 11:30am-2, 6:30-10pm. Closed Sundays. | |
A branch of the excellent Miyarabi in Ikebukuro. Kudan-Minami 3-4-3. Open 5:30-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holiday.
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