Yotsuya 3-chome
Kaiji (Yotsuya 3-chome - Japanese regional). 3357-3789
Specialties from Yamanashi, including houtou noodles and raw horsemeat, in a tiny, mom-and-pop-run shop. No English spoken.
Aizumicho 3. (on a tiny side street; turn right one block west of the fire station) Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO). Closed weekends.
Kuidon (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakiniku). 3357-9553
Inexpensive yakiniku.
Yotsuya 3-11. (Located above KFC on Shinjuku-dori, just west of Yotsuya 3-chome station) Open 4:30-11pm (LO) daily.
Simple, down-home Vietnamese food prepared extremely well. Their deep-fried ichiba harumaki (market spring rolls) are crunchy and flavorful; other highlights are fried tofu stuffed with beef and an excellent pho noodle soup, listed on the menu as gyuniku udon. They serve 333 and Saigon beers, but don't miss trying a bottle of the eye-opening Chang beer from Thailand. The final bill comes in at a very modest Y2,000-Y2,500 per person.
Yotsuya 3-11. (on the north side of Shinjuku-dori, one block west of the Yotsuya 3-chome station, just past the
koban) Open 11am-3, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Shutoan (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). unlisted
Oysters and himono (grilled dried fish) are the specialty here, along with a huge selection of sake. The sake is served in small portions for Y300-400, so you can try a number of different types.
Yotsuya 3-11, Dai-ni Komyodo Bldg B1F. Open 5-9:30pm (LO; Sat 3-8pm). Closed Sundays.
The drinks list here focuses on sake from small breweries in Nagano Prefecture and around the country; many of them are rather obscure, but the staff will be happy to give you advice (in Japanese). Sharing is encouraged, so you can try several different types over the course of a meal and compare notes. The drinks list here focuses on sake from small breweries in Nagano Prefecture and around the country; many of them are rather obscure, but the staff will be happy to give you advice (in Japanese). Sharing is encouraged, so you can try several different types over the course of a meal and compare notes.
The food menu is tilted toward sake-friendly items, with six kinds of yaki-miso (we were especially taken by the grilled garlic miso) and various other delicacies. There's also a handful of grilled fish and sashimi items - the tasty grilled ray was sweeter and more tender than average, although it still had a pleasant crunch.
Seating is at small horikotatsu or at the small counter; there's also one window booth, where smoking is allowed. The elevator opens onto Tokyo's tiniest genkan, where you're meant to take off your shoes, so large groups might take awhile to enter and exit. Budget around Y2500-3500 for a few rounds of sake and snacks, more for a full evening. [Show more] [Show less] Yotsuya 3-9-11, Yotsuya Shinko Bldg 7F. Open 5:30pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Mubu (Yotsuya 3-chome - Wine bar). 5367-3361
A late-night tapas and wine bar; budget around Y4000 for food and drink (including Y420 cover charge).
Dasenka (Yotsuya 3-chome - Czech). 5269-6151
A tiny, bookshelf-lined cafe-bar serving Czech, Polish and other Eastern European fare. Menu items include excellent bramborak potato pancakes, goulash made with beer, Moravian-style roast pork and homemade cornbread. A tiny, bookshelf-lined cafe-bar serving Czech, Polish and other Eastern European fare. Menu items include excellent bramborak potato pancakes, goulash made with beer, Moravian-style roast pork and homemade cornbread.
Regularly scheduled beers are Edelpils on tap and Budvar and Urquell in bottles; they also offer a few guest beers and a selection of herbal liqueurs. [Show more] [Show less] Funamachi 7, Tajima Bldg 201. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Innovative cuisine, friendly service, and the feel of a comfortable neighborhood bistro. The food menu promises adventure, with tastes ranging from sea urchin and ikura with green tea noodles to Louisiana shrimp. Innovative Pacific Rim cuisine, convenient late-night hours, friendly service, and a large, well-chosen New World wine list. The atmosphere has the feel of a comfortable neighborhood bistro.
The food menu promises adventure, with tastes ranging from sea urchin and ikura with green tea noodles to Louisiana shrimp. The richly flavored grilled venison makes a dramatic starter, and the garlicky Caesar salad with aged mimolette is well above average. The cod in red almond curry is also very impressive, with a Thai-style curry sauce that nicely balances the other flavors and ingredients without overwhelming them. The wine list has several good selections in the under-Y6000 category, plus several varieties by the glass. Budget around Y5000-7500 for dinner and drinks. [Show more] [Show less] Gabisan (Yotsuya 3-chome - Chinese). 3359-2669
Well-prepared Chinese standards and some Szechuan-style noodle dishes, with a mostly neighborhood crowd.
Funamachi 8. (above Fairfax Grill) Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Dodo (Yotsuya 3-chome - Yakitori). 3356-8403
Memorable charcoal-grilled yakitori for Y4,000 to Y8,000 per person (with drinks). They've got an interesting sake list, including multiple variations from Kubota and other small brewers.
Funamachi 12. (on Gaien-Higashi-dori) Open 6pm-5am (Sat. to 11pm). Closed Sundays.
Asama (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 3355-2977
The sign outside this old-school sake pub entices with the promise of jizake - local sake - and makes good on that offer. On Friday nights, the crowd consists mainly of beer-drinking salarymen, but Asama is a great place for those who love sake. The sign outside this old-school sake pub entices with the promise of jizake - local sake - and makes good on that offer. On Friday nights, the crowd consists mainly of beer-drinking salarymen, but Asama is a great place for those who love sake.
A good starting point for novices is the Y500 sake list, which features a selection of brews from producers such as Kudoki Jozu and Kariho. More seasoned drinkers will find several varieties of limited-edition sake and premium brands like Juyondai and Azuma-ichi. If you need help navigating the three-page sake menu, proprietor Tomohisa Hatakeyama will make recommendations for you based on your preferences.
The food menu features tasty izakaya standards such as grilled tebasaki chicken wings and crispy vegetable tempura, all prepared in the impossibly tiny kitchen at the back. [Show more] [Show less] Yotsuya 3-7. Open 5-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Dipmahal (Yotsuya 3-chome - Indian). 3341-9465
Above-average curries and tandoori dishes, at good prices.
Yotsuya 3-3, Stream Yotsuya 2F. (from Yotsuya 3-chome walk towards Yotsuya sta, take the second left; the shop is on the right a few doors in) Open 11am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Excellent Spanish cooking, including a good variety of tapas dishes; the spicy lamb kebabs are especially recommended. Service is friendly, and the decor is casual and cheerful, with bright yellow tablecloths, bullfighting posters and Spanish music adding to the atmosphere.
Yotsuya 3-3, Stream Yotsuya B1F. (from Yotsuya 3-chome walk towards Yotsuya sta, take the second left; the shop is on the right a few doors in) Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Marumugi (Yotsuya 3-chome - Beer bar). 6380-4745
A tiny (14-seat) second-floor bar specializing in craft beers from around Japan. The atmosphere is laid-back (there's a muted TV set along with loungey background music), and the crowd is very local. The selection of beers seems to change by the week, and often the five taps will feature several different beers from the same brewery. All beers are Y1000 a pint, and there's a limited menu of bar snacks (sausages, cheese) to go along.
Arakicho 1, Ichibankan Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Carino (Yotsuya 3-chome - Spanish). 3225-6226
"Jamon y vino" is the simple yet enticing concept at this small tapas bar, with Spanish wines starting at around Y3800 per bottle. Typical dishes include Iberico chorizo sausages, Catalan-style pizzas, and grilled meats and seafood on skewers. The food is great, but the pace of delivery can be somewhat leisurely. Budget around Y4000 for food and drink.
Arakicho 1, Nakabayashi Bldg 1F. Open 6pm-1:30am (LO). Closed Sundays.
Im Aroi (Yotsuya 3-chome - Thai). 3353-5223
Good, authentic cooking from a native Thai chef in this hole-in-the-wall neigbhorhood shop. The Chang Mai-style sausages are quite interesting, and the spicy salads pack a punch.
Arakicho 7-1, Nozaki Bldg 2F. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Suzunari (Yotsuya 3-chome - Kaiseki). 3350-1178
This tiny, Michelin-starred kaiseki restaurant offers good value for money, with prix-fixe menus starting around Y5000. Counter seats are the best; other areas can get smoky.
Arakicho 7. Open 6-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Nearly thirty well-chosen craft sake from relatively obscure small breweries are on offer at this cozy neighborhood drinking spot. There are also sake-friendly nibbles like grilled dried fish and cured meats - the smoked cheese, fish and meat platter is especialy recommended. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink.
Arakicho 9-22, 2F. Open 6pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
Regional dishes from Aomori Prefecture are the draw here, including pork shabu-shabu, grilled chicken and seasonal vegetables. You can also try some local craft sake - some twenty types served either in ichi-go flasks or small 60cc tasting sizes if you want to try a bigger variety. Budget around Y4000 at dinnertime, Y1000 for lunch.
Arakicho 11-24, Arakicho AC Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-1, 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Suzushin (Yotsuya 3-chome - Tonkatsu). 3341-0768
Good, reliable tonkatsu from this long-running neighborhood shop.
Arakicho 10-28. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5-9pm. Closed Sundays.
This tiny second-floor bar has a Buddhist theme - the name in Japanese is "bouzu", or Buddhist priest - with a little shrine in one corner and bartenders dressed in appropriate priestly garb. Drinks include several variations on shochu and plum wine, and there's a small food menu to go with your drinks.
Arakicho 6-42, AG Bldg 2F. Open 7pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Ramukana (Yotsuya 3-chome - Swiss). 6457-4942
Beautiful heirloom vegetables, sourced from small farms all over Japan, are the pride of the kitchen at Ramukana. The menu's centerpiece is a hearty cheese fondue, served with raw vegetables, bread, and optional "toppings" such as the excellent smoked bacon chunks. A couple of nice Swiss house wines are available by the bottle, carafe or glass (Y5000 / Y2600 / Y900), along with reasonably priced French wines starting at Y3500. Beautiful heirloom vegetables, sourced from small farms all over Japan, are the pride of the kitchen at Ramukana. The menu's centerpiece is a hearty cheese fondue, served with raw vegetables, bread, and optional "toppings" such as the excellent smoked bacon chunks. A couple of nice Swiss house wines are available by the bottle, carafe or glass (Y5000 / Y2600 / Y900), along with reasonably priced French wines starting at Y3500.
Among the impressive array of starters and side dishes, the bagna cauda is a standout, with nine or ten different vegetables (described in loving detail by our waiter) paired with a well-balanced anchovy sauce and a dish of artisanal salt. The homemade pork sausage is also excellent, and the shrimp, salmon and avocado salad was so good we were tempted to order a second portion.
The atmosphere is very relaxed and casual, with a classic sixties-jazz soundtrack and homey, Alpine-village-in-Tokyo decor. Budget around Y5000 for ample food and drink. [Show more] [Show less] Arakicho 3-10, Dai-3 Halcyon 2F. Open 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Himonoya (Yotsuya 3-chome - Izakaya). 3359-8088
There's a good selection of sake to go with your grilled himono (dried fish) and other izakaya fare, all at quite reasonable prices. Lunch is served until 4pm.
Yotsuya 3-2-2, TR Bldg B1F. Open 11am-1am (LO; Sat, Sun -12) daily.
Saboruna (Yotsuya 3-chome - Italian). 6313-4105
Reasonably priced Mediterranean/Italian food and wine, including grilled meats, pastas and pizzas. Wines start at Y2700 per bottle. Budget around Y3500 for dinner and drinks; lunches start at Y780. No lunch on weekends.
Yotsuya 3-6, Asunaro Bldg 3F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-11pm (LO). Closed Saturdays.
A pleasant cafe with an Italian-influenced food menu and Y500 cocktails. There's also a selection of board games - backgammon, chess, go, shogi and many more - available at Y1000/person for 100 minutes.
Yotsuya 2-11-6. Open 11am-11pm. Closed Saturdays.
First-rate French cuisine and very reasonably priced wines. The setting is rather minimal - old-fashioned coffee-shop decor in a well-used basement space, with just a counter and a few tables. Budget around Y6000-8000 for food and drinks.
Yotsuya 3-1, Suga Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
The main draw at La Boqueria is the "wine buffet," an open bar with over a dozen different wines, not top-end but still very drinkable, priced at Y1980 for two hours. The dining room is attractively furnished with unexpectedly large tables and comfortable seating, apparently left over from the upscale Italian restaurant that used to occupy this space. The food is rather hit-or-miss - it's best to stick to very simple dishes like the assorted meat and cheese plates and the quesadillas.
Yotsuya 2-11, Assist Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
Excellent traditional French cooking in a comfortable, smoke-free dining space reminiscent of a provincial French inn. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Wakaba 2-7, Video Focus Bldg 1F. Open noon-2, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Akebonobashi/ Ushigome-Yanagicho
Faith (Akebonobashi - Sandwiches/burgers). 6661-3353
Charcoal-grilled gourmet burgers and sandwiches can be ordered for delivery within most of Shinjuku and Chiyoda wards. Sandwiches are priced Y980-1500, with a line-up of Cajun Smoked Chicken; Reuben; Pastrami; Shrimp Avocado and ten more varieties. Charcoal-grilled gourmet burgers and sandwiches can be ordered for delivery within most of Shinjuku and Chiyoda wards. Sandwiches are priced Y980-1500, with a line-up of Cajun Smoked Chicken; Reuben; Pastrami; Shrimp Avocado and ten more varieties.
Burgers are Y1270-1920 with fries and onion rings included. The shop itself is pleasant and unpretentious, playing a lively heavy-metal soundtrack to go with your burger. Sundays are deliveries only. [Show more] [Show less] Arakicho 16, Espero Bldg 101. Open 11:30am-3, 5-8pm. Closed Sundays, Tuesdays.
Ebiden (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 3353-2990
Good tempura at reasonable prices at this unpretentious neighborhood shop. The tempura teishoku is Y1890, full-course dinners are Y2940, and fancy kaiseki menus start at Y5250. Lunch starts at Y680, with a deluxe tempura teishoku going for Y1260.
Sakamachi 15. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Yuzen (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3359-8182
This friendly neighborhood drinking spot serves up creative izakaya fare prepared from fresh, very seasonal ingredients. In fact the staff will often bring out a platter showing off produce from the market and the catch of the day, to help you decide on your order. Some highlights here have included highly seasonal fare such as their excellent charcoal-grilled bamboo shoots and tempura-fried garlic shoots and mountain vegetables. This friendly neighborhood drinking spot serves up creative izakaya fare prepared from fresh, very seasonal ingredients. In fact the staff will often bring out a platter showing off produce from the market and the catch of the day, to help you decide on your order. Some highlights here have included highly seasonal fare such as their excellent charcoal-grilled bamboo shoots and tempura-fried garlic shoots and mountain vegetables.
Yuzen's tempura dishes are prepared with a light touch, and the chicken and other charcoal-grilled dishes are reliably good. You can also sample some two dozen craft sakes from around the country, although unfortunately the sake servings are on the small side. Budget around Y3500 for dinner and drinks. [Show more] [Show less] Arakicho 16, Berwood Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Good budget Indian curries at this modest neighborhood shop, with take-out bentos from Y550 at lunchtime.
Katamachi 1-2, Dai-Asia Bldg 1F. Open 11am-3:30, 5-10pm daily.
Yoshiura (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3357-6680
Still going strong after seventy years, Yoshiura exudes a classic old-school izakaya charm that's hard to match. They draw a loyal neighborhood crowd with their reasonably priced sake (mostly well-known premium brands like Kubota and Denshu) and good sashimi and other izakaya fare. Budget around Y4000 for food and drink. (No English menus or service.)
Katamachi 5. Open 5-11:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Kamiya (Akebonobashi - Japanese). 3351-4357
Fugu is the wintertime specialty here, with fugu-centric prix-fixe dinners starting at Y10,000, with sake or wine to drink. Soba lunches with tempura and/or sashimi are priced Y1260-3150.
Sumiyoshicho 7-1, Fukumatsu Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Akiyama (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 5269-6093
Udon noodles, craft sake and miscellaneous izakaya fare are served until late at night at this neighbhorhood drinking spot. Open until 11pm Saturdays, 2am weeknights (LO).
Arakicho 23-15. Open 5pm-2am (LO). Closed Sundays.
Shoji (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 5379-3557
One of the specialties of the house at this first-rate tempura counter is anago, served with a tasty golden-brown coating that's thicker than average and satisfyingly crunchy. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5,000, Y7,000 and Y10,000, with reasonably priced sake and wines to accompany your meal. Voluminous deluxe donburi lunches are a bargain at Y1700-2000.
Sumiyoshicho 2-18, Win Yotsuya 2F. Open 11:30am-1, 6-8:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Siddique (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3358-8100
Reliable curries to take out or eat in at this branch of the popular budget Indian chain. Lunch service until 5pm.
Sumiyoshicho 2-9. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Spice (Akebonobashi - Indian). 3356-3626
Good, reasonably priced Indian curries and other dishes in a pleasant setting. Dinnertime set meals (with rice or nan) start at around Y1100.
Aizumicho 19-13. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
First-rate, creative Italian cooking in a small and unpretentious dining room. The menu is ever-changing, but some favorite dishes have included cauliflower panna cotta topped with sea urchin; crayfish terrine with caviar; souffle-style lobster and leek in a lobster bisque; foie gras and quail stuffed with porcini mushrooms; and pasta with wild-boar ragu. Budget around Y7000 for dinner; wines start at Y3000.
Tomihisacho 8-27. Open noon-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
This cozy basement "Asian dining" spot mainly features Indian and Nepalese curries, although they also offer a few Thai dishes for variety. Lunch is served until 5pm. Lunch sets start at Y750, and dinner sets (curry plus rice/nan plus drink) start at Y1150.
Sumiyoshicho 5-9, Refresh Sumiyoshi B-Wing B1F. Open 11am-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Kurachan (Akebonobashi - Izakaya). 3357-6407
A quiet, extremely unpretentious neighborhood drinking spot, Kurachan sports a classic old-school izakaya decor and serves an interesting selection of craft sake along with excellent grilled chicken. We've found it most advantageous to discuss our sake preferences with the staff and follow their suggestions, although there is chalkboard menu listing their regular offerings (all in Japanese). Some food highlights include their unusual natto karaage and some excellent ume-shiso tebasaki. Budget around Y5000.
Sumiyoshicho 10-11. Open 6-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Budget-friendly Nepalese and Indian curries at this casual neighborhood restaurant; dinner runs around Y2000 per person with drinks.
Katamachi 6-10, Mansion VIP Yotsuya 1F. Open 11am-3, 5-10:30pm daily.
Comida (Akebonobashi - Wine bar). 3356-6543
This neighborhood bar attracts a crowd of regulars with their inexpensive wines (from Y300 per glass) and good selection of tapas-style dishes.
Sumiyoshicho 8-10, Lion's Mansion Ichigaya 1F. Open 11:30am-3, 5-11pm daily.
Garni (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Japanese). 6457-4145
Yakiton (charcoal-grilled pork on skewers) is the main dish here, but instead of a smoky izakaya the atmosphere is closer to a stylish wine bar, with a selection of wines by the glass (Y680-1000) to go with your skewers - a great combination. Yakiton (charcoal-grilled pork on skewers) is the main dish here, but instead of a smoky izakaya the atmosphere is closer to a stylish wine bar, with a selection of wines by the glass (Y680-1000) to go with your skewers - a great combination.
Pork cuts include pleasantly fatty pork belly and assorted organ meats, and are Y160 per skewer, while vegetables like zucchini, turnips and shiitake are Y180. There are also starters, salads and pastas to round out your meal. The voluminous coriander salad is especially recommended, as is the very cheesy macaroni au gratin.
Most seating is at the counter, although there's one table and a small tatami area. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink. [Show more] [Show less] Elegant, high-end Spanish food in rather grand surroundings - the former residence of Count Ogasawara. Lunch from Y7000, full-course dinners from Y9000, not including wine.
Kawadacho 10-10. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9pm (LO) daily.
Momo (Ushigome-Yanigicho - Curry). 3269-8893
Located in the middle of a residential area, Cafe de MoMo feels like a neighborhood hangout with its brightly colored, comfortable furnishings, its hip musical soundtrack (lots of dub reggae) and its homestyle cooking. The menu features original curries like their "milk curry," made with chicken, paprika, zucchini and other vegetables, as well as keema, spicy beef, mixed-vegetable, and a few other variations. Located in the middle of a residential area, Cafe de MoMo feels like a neighborhood hangout with its brightly colored, comfortable furnishings, its hip musical soundtrack (lots of dub reggae) and its homestyle cooking. The menu features original curries like their "milk curry," made with chicken, paprika, zucchini and other vegetables, as well as keema, spicy beef, mixed-vegetable, and a few other variations.
Curries are priced Y800, Y1000 and Y1200 depending on size, and two-curry combination plates are available. Drinks are an extra Y100 and everything is ready for take-out. [Show more] [Show less] Ichigaya Kagacho 2-2-9, Casa Rosse 1F. Open 11:30am-3:30, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
An artsy little neighborhood cafe serving espresso beverages, drip coffee of the day, and matcha. Lunches run Y500-1000, and they also roast their own beans, on sale from Y450/100g.
The food here is a mix of Italian and French influences, with a lot of grilled meats and fish. Most wines are in the Y4000-6000 range, and they also carry a nice selection of Belgian beers (Rochefort 8 and Orval are each Y1150 per bottle). Lunch is served Wednesdays though Sundays, and is priced from Y900 (for the curry plate) to Y2580. Budget around Y6000-8000 for dinner.
Ichigaya Yanagicho 41-2, S Play 2F. Open noon-2, 6pm-midnight daily.
Tsuzuku (Ushigome-Yanigicho - Izakaya). 3268-6467
A very casual drinking spot serving excellent sashimi, good grilled fish and other izakaya fare to a neighborhood crowd.
Ichigaya Yanagicho 8. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Le Dessin (Ushigome-Yanigicho - French). 3353-2223
The chef here trained in a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the south of France, and prices are very reasonable for the quality level. The dining room is small and intimate (only sixteen seats), and is decorated with the chef's own artwork. The chef here trained in a three-Michelin-starred restaurant in the south of France, and prices are very reasonable for the quality level; budget around Y3000 at lunch, Y6500 at dinner. The foie gras creme brulee starter was pure genius.
The dining room is small and intimate (only sixteen seats), and is decorated with the chef's own artwork. Reserve well in advance, especially at lunchtime; cash only. [Show more] [Show less] Haramachi 2-6-7. Open noon-1:30, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wed, 3rd Tue.
L'Habitude (Ushigome-Yanigicho - French). 3260-8784
A classic French neighborhood restaurant, with good, meaty fare and casual bistro-style seating at small tables. Three-course prix-fixe menus are Y2940, or Y1050 at lunchtime for two courses. Wines, mainly from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Languedoc-Roussillon, are quite reasonable, with a good number of bottles in the Y3000-5000 range and 500ml decanters available for many of them.
Minami-Yamabushi-cho 3-5. (on Okubo-dori) Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Yotsuya
Shinobu (Yotsuya - Japanese). 3355-6338
Beef tongue is the specialty here, grilled or stewed.
Saneicho 16. Open 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
The sake selection at this Michelin-starred izakaya is pretty impressive, and the food is above average, but not quite good enough to justify the prices. Prix-fixe menus are the only option, and they start at Y5000. Seating is cramped, but service is friendly and the non-smoking policy improves things a bit. The sake selection at this Michelin-starred izakaya is pretty impressive, and the food is above average, but not quite good enough to justify the prices. Prix-fixe menus are the only option, and they start at Y5000. Seating is cramped, but service is friendly and the non-smoking policy improves things a bit.
The shop is located underneath a tansu shop, and can be hard to find. [Show more] [Show less] Yotsuya 2-10, Matsumotokan B1F. Open 6-10:15pm (LO). Closed Sundays, Mondays.
Bankashien's menu covers everything from budget noodle dishes to Szechuan and Shanghai-style standards, with quality ranging from pretty good to pretty fantastic. The hits here really stand out, so it's well worth exploring the menu over the course of repeat visits. Some of our memorable discoveries have included the meaty and garlicky gyoza dumplings and the tasty and beautifully textured spring rolls. The mabo dofu is another prize-winner - far spicier than average, with a pleasantly gloopy consistency that works quite well. Bankashien's menu covers everything from budget noodle dishes to Szechuan and Shanghai-style standards, with quality ranging from pretty good to pretty fantastic. The hits here really stand out, so it's well worth exploring the menu over the course of repeat visits. Some of our memorable discoveries have included the meaty and garlicky gyoza dumplings and the tasty and beautifully textured spring rolls. The mabo dofu is another prize-winner - far spicier than average, with a pleasantly gloopy consistency that works quite well.
We were less excited by the rest of the dumpling menu - the har gow and the xiao long bao (shoronpo) were somewhat doughy for our tastes, as was the otherwise good fried chicken. The crabmeat-egg stir-fry was tasty but a bit vinegary. The fresh-tasting stir-fried greens were another highlight though, providing nice textural and flavor balance. The various noodle dishes also tend to be good, and good value.
As is true in many Chinese restaurants, the bigger the group you go with, the more fun you'll have trying out lots of different dishes. Bankashien's interior is ornate in the extreme; somebody here pulled out all the stops when it came to decorating the place, and it really adds to the experience. Budget around Y1500-3500 at dinnertime; cash only. [Show more] [Show less] Yotsuya 2-3-6, Palm Yotsuya B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holidays.
Half wine shop, half European-import grocery store, Euroseed stocks an eclectic range of jams and preserves, candies and coffee beans, olives and salsa, and lots more on its crowded shelves. Sale prices are often a few hundred yen lower than other import shops in town.
Yotsuya 2-9, APS Kinen Bldg 1F. Open 11am-9pm daily.
A tiny neighborhood place with well-prepared French food. There are only 4 or 5 tables, split between two levels, so be sure to call ahead.
Yotsuya 2-3-19. Open 11:45am-2, 5:45-9:15pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holidays.
El Saraya (Yotsuya - Middle Eastern). 3353-9394
Authentic Egyptian cuisine prepared by native chefs. Lunch starts at Y850, with a nice Y1800 lunch platter that includes a main dish plus chicken and kofta kebabs, salads, soup, dessert and beverage. Prix-fixe dinners from Y5000 or a la carte. Belly dancing on Friday and Saturday nights.
Saneicho 1, Horiuchi Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays and holidays.
Bottega (Yotsuya - Wine bar). 3358-9547
This casual bistro offers value-priced wines and meaty Mediterranean snacks late into the night. The spacious basement dining room has a warm feel to it - heavy on the wood and brick, with floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with wine bottles surrounding the tables. This casual bistro offers value-priced wines and meaty Mediterranean snacks late into the night. The spacious basement dining room has a warm feel to it - heavy on the wood and brick, with floor-to-ceiling shelves filled with wine bottles surrounding the tables.
Some fifty wines are available by the bottle, starting at just Y2500, with twelve poured by the glass. The food menu offers simple but satisfying fare like pork rillettes, assorted hams, country-style cassoulets, and tapas favorites like garlic-sauteed shrimp and mushrooms. [Show more] [Show less] Solid Tex-Mex food and friendly service.
Kaasan (Yotsuya - Izakaya). 3226-0551
Dozens of sake brands from around the country, along with mom's home cooking (assuming your mother runs an izakaya).
Yotsuya 1-3, B1F. (on Shinjuku-dori west of the Yotsuya station) Open 5-11:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Romina (Yotsuya - Peruvian). 3226-6608
Brilliant Peruvian food and drinks at relatively inexpensive prices. Try their vanilla flan for dessert, if you still have room. There's also a big lunch menu. (Avoid Sunday nights if you don't like big crowds.)
Yotsuya 1-7-27, Central Yotsuya Bldg. 2F. Open 5-11pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Kuraya (Yotsuya - Soba/Udon). 3356-7571
A sake and soba restaurant, Kuraya serves soba made from 90% buckwheat, supplemented by simple izakaya fare like grilled fish and chicken, and tofu and yuba dishes. The sake is from well-known regional breweries like Tengumai, Kubota and Ichinokura, and there are also a few sake-based fruit liqueurs. Budget around Y2800 at dinnertime.
Yotsuya 1-4-2. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:30pm (Sat, Sun -10:30) daily.
Seafood and heirloom-breed chicken dishes from Yamaguchi Prefecture are the specialties of the house here, along with locally produced sake including several labels from the excellent Dassai brand. Budget around Y3200 at dinnertime.
Yotsuya 1-9, Miyake Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:15pm (LO) daily.
Suzuden (Yotsuya - Liquor shop). 3351-1777
A well-stocked sake specialty store; don't miss the refrigerated rooms down in the basement. There's also a stand-up bar in back with around a dozen sake by the glass along with simple, inexpensive bar food (weeknights only).
Yotsuya 1-10. Open 9am-9pm. Closed Sundays.
A legendary old-school Tokyo French restaurant that's been here forever. Lunch from Y6,000, dinner from Y14,000.
Wakaba 1-18. Open noon-1:30, 6-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Paul (Yotsuya - Cafe). 5368-8823
Good pastries and plenty of outdoor seating.
Yotsuya 1-5-25, Atre Yotsuya 2F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
European-style bread, pastries, and a big assortment of sandwiches to go.
Yotsuya 1-5-25, Atre Yotsuya 2F. Open 7:30am-9:30pm daily.
Mar (Yotsuya - Italian). 3359-3147
Good cost-performance at this neighborhood Italian spot; budget around Y4500 for dinner with drinks, Y1000 for lunch.
Sakamachi 5. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
This second branch of Tokyo's Portuguese pioneer restaurant is far more upscale than the Shibuya original, with spacious, comfortable dining rooms (smoking and non) a bigger, more serious menu, and a sommelier. Recommendations include the rabbit stewed in red wine and the potato and dried cod croquettes. The wine list includes both "traditional" and "international" Portuguese wines, depending on your tastes (we prefer the latter). Budget Y5,000-8,000 for dinner, depending on your choice of drinks. There's live folk music some nights - call to check.
[Go to branch review] Rokubancho 11-7, B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
Kioicho/ Kojimachi/ Hanzomon
Excellent Szechuan-style cuisine - both spicy and non-spicy, in a spacious dining room. Prix-fixe dinners start at around Y6300, but lunch (from Y1260) is a real bargain.
Hirakawacho 2-5-5, Zenkoku Ryokan Kaikan 5/6F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9pm (LO) daily.
If you'd like some scenery with your beverage, the Garden Lounge of the Hotel New Otani in Chiyoda-ku offers a stunning, panoramic view of a 400-year-old, perfectly maintained Japanese garden. Let your senses be transported to a different era as you enjoy a varied selection of coffees, teas, and seasonal desserts. Prices tend to be high, but the garden is a must-see. Continental and American breakfasts are served from 7-10am.
Kioicho 4-1, Hotel New Otani 1F. Open 6am-midnight daily.
Kyubei (Kioicho - Sushi). 3221-4144
A branch of the long-established, highly regarded sushi shop in Ginza that invented gunkan-maki (sushi wrapped in nori strips, "battleship" style). There are two branches in the New Otani, one in the main building and one in the tower, both on the lobby level. Lunch is priced Y3150-Y15,750; dinner is Y6300-24,150. They also do take-out.
Kioicho 4-1, Hotel New Otani 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm daily.
Probably best known in Tokyo for their popular Y6,600 "Champagne Brunch" on Sundays, featuring all the sparkling wine you can drink. (The bar/restaurant area is open later than the main dining room; last order is at 12:30am.)
Kioicho 4-1, Hotel New Otani 4F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5pm-12:30am (LO) daily.
A bright and airy branch of this French-cafe landmark, located directly in front of the New Otani Hotel. There's a take-out bakery at the entrance, a big cafe area, a smaller dining room for proper French meals, and plenty of outdoor seating, heated in winter. Lunches in the dining room start at Y850; full-course dinners from Y3800. The cafe serves light snacks like quiche, omelettes, salade nicoise and steak frites.
Kioicho 4-1, Shin-Kioicho Bldg. 1F. Open 10am-11pm daily.
Modern Szechuan and Shanghai-style Chinese cuisine, with good fried gyoza dumplings and noodles. Budget around Y3500 at dinnertime.
Hirakawacho 1-5-2, Aoki Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
One might expect this sort of sprawling, relaxed cafe in a neighborhood like Koenji or Naka-Meguro, but it's a surprising find in a business district like Hanzomon. Weekend brunch is served Saturdays only, from noon-4:30pm, with choices like pancakes, Eggs Benedict made with good-quality prosciutto, plus more lunchy items like pasta and veggie burgers. Individual dishes are well prepared, but brunch as a whole lacks the extra touches - pastries, muffins, juice, coffee refills - that would make you want to linger.
Kojimachi 1-5-4. Open 11:30am-11pm (Sat. noon-4:30pm). Closed Sundays.
Elio (Kojimachi - Italian). 3239-6771
Popular with expats of a certain vintage, Elio serves simple, solid southern Italian cooking, and is a popular destination for special occasions and weekend splurges. The dining room is comfortably rustic, and service is professional but friendly. Budget around Y8,000-15,000 per person for dinner and drinks.
Kojimachi 2-5-2. Open 11:45am-2:15, 5:45-10:15pm(LO). Closed Sundays.
The "black rabbit" is a lively after-work pub serving tasty Okinawan food and drink (especially their stir-fry dishes). Prices run around Y500-700 for small dishes. Lunch ranges from Y680-Y1100 and includes unusual dishes like goya-champuru curry.
Kojimachi 4-8, B1F. Open 11am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Hanamasa (Kojimachi - Retail). 3511-3308
A good selection of meats and produce, and some imported products from the US.
Kojimachi 5-4. Open 24 hours a day.
Ajanta (Kojimachi - Indian). 3264-4255, 3264-6955
A huge menu, great food, a surprising variety of different breads, and extremely convenient hours.
This off-the-beaten-track shop on a Hanzomon side street serves some of Tokyo's better European-style Japanese curries. The mixed curry with chicken, pork and beef is especially recommended - the meats are tender and skillfully prepared, the sauce rich and spicy. Curries come with a good-size helping of boiled potatoes. The coffeeshop decor is nicer than average, although it can get smoky when crowded.
Ichibancho 8-13. Open 11:30am-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Ganges (Hanzomon - Indian). 3234-5220
Lunch Y920 (to 3pm), dinner from Y2,700. Take-out also available.
Kojimachi 2-14, 1/2F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Above-average Indian fare at reasonable prices from the Yotsuya-based mini-chain.
Kojimachi 1-3-7. Open 11am-4:30, 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Argo (Hanzomon - Greek). 3265-5504
This very stylish "restaurant and library cafe" serves Greek- and Mediterranean-influenced French food, with an emphasis on seafood. In the daytime there's a nice view out over the greenery of the Imperial Palace grounds. Prix-fixe dinners from Y6000, lunch from Y1640.
Kojimachi 1-4-2, One Four Two by Tojo 9F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Yamaya (Hanzomon - Liquor shop). 3511-2501
A discount wine shop with a good selection.
Kojimachi 1-6-2. (on Shinjuku-dori near Hanzomon station) Open 10am-10pm daily.
Sawadee (Hanzomon - Thai). 5215-6185
Decent Thai cooking from the Dipmahal Indian-restaurant chain.
Kojimachi 1-6-6. Open 11am-5, 5pm-midnight daily.
Yakiniku, bulgogi, yaki-udon and natto yukke are some of the Korean specialties served here. They also offer a number of different party plans that include an open bar. Budget around Y5000 at dinnertime. No lunch on weekends.
Sanbancho 1. (above Tony Roma's) Open 11am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO). Open every day.
An American chain specializing in ribs.
Sanbancho 1. Open 11:45am-3, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
