Ueno
Light, casual meals are served all day starting from 10am (an hour earlier than most other restaurants in the neighborhood). One of our favorites is the vegetable and chicken platter - an assortment of grilled and steamed seasonal vegetables served with grilled chicken, bread, and a pot of tea (Y1386). There's also a good selection of desserts suitable for a mid-afternoon break.


Ueno 7-1-1, Atre 1F. Open 10am-9pm daily.
If you're stuck in the station and in the mood for traditional French, dinners here start at Y3800. There's also a separate take-out pastry shop.


Ueno 7-1-1, Atre 1F. Open 11am-10:30pm daily.
Buri (Ueno - Bar). 5826-5807
You'll find regional sake from small brewers around the country, served in convenient one-cup sizes at this popular stand-bar. Tasty snacks are in the Y400-600 range, including yakitori, homemade satsuma-age (fishcakes), and soy-milk gratin. Some outdoor seating. Open to 4:30am Fridays and Saturdays.


Ueno 7-1-1, Atre 1F. Open 11am-11pm (4:30am Fri, Sat) daily.
Vinuls (Ueno - Spanish). 5826-5753
Spanish food and reasonably priced French and Spanish wines, with convenient late-night hours. Budget around Y3000 for food and drink at dinnertime. (From the same management as the Aux Amis des Vins chain of French wine bars.)
Coca (Ueno - Thai). 5826-5825
Thai sukiyaki (although for some reason it's known as Cantonese sukiyaki at Coca branches in Thailand), plus assorted dim sum dishes.


Ueno 7-1-1, Atre 2F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Konaya (Ueno - Soba/Udon). 5826-5863
Oddly compelling udon noodles in curry-flavored broth, served with shrimp tempura, bananas or mochi (rice cakes).


Ueno 7-1-1, Atre 2F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Oto Oto (Ueno - Japanese). 5807-2244
Nicely prepared seasonal izakaya fare, including a selection of local Kyoto "banzai-ryori." Part of the Bamboo Garden restaurant complex, the dining room is decorated to resemble a bamboo grove. Full-course dinners from Y5000, plus plenty of reasonably priced a la carte items. Lunch is served until 4:30pm.


Ueno Koen 1-52, Bamboo Garden 2F. Open 11am-11:30pm daily.
First-rate Miyazaki chicken dishes, regional Kyushu fare and local shochu brands are the specialties at this reasonably priced, unpretentious Miyazaki-based izakaya chain. Budget around Y3000-4000 for dinner with drinks.
[Go to branch review] 

Ueno 2-12-23, U-One Bldg 4F. Open 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Odako (Ueno - Oden). 3836-4906
Top-quality Kansai-style oden - not only does Ohdako have some of the most delicious oden in Tokyo, they have the good sense to serve with it some of the finest sakes available. [See
FULL REVIEW.]


Ueno 2-3-1. Open 5:30-11pm daily.
For the past 10 years the order of business at Kurofunetei has been yoshoku - elegant renditions of hearty Japanese-Western classics. Yoshoku's origins lie in the Meiji era, when Japanese chefs began creating their own versions of Western cuisine, producing now-classic dishes such as omuraisu (a fried-rice omelet - nowadays dressed with a generous dollop of ketchup, courtesy of the post-war inrush of American products). [See
FULL REVIEW.]


Ueno 2-13-13, Kikuya Bldg 4F. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
Raw ingredients and packaged goods from China, Korea and southeast Asia, including fresh vegetables from Thailand two or three times a week. They're in the basement of the Ameyoko Center Building, the large triangular building near the northern end of the Ameyoko arcade, under the train tracks south of Ueno station. Next to Murachin in the same basement are two other shops, Arai and Nozawaya, with similar items for sale.


Ueno 4-7-8, Ameyoko Center Building B1F. Open 10am-8pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Okinawan ingredients.


Ueno 4-9-2.
Zanmai (Ueno - Sushi). 5807-6543
This convenient 24-hour branch of the popular Tsukiji-based budget sushi chain offers good value for money.
The sprawling, mostly Japanese "natural foods" buffet here is Y2800 at dinnertime and Y1600 at lunch, with cheaper prices for kids. They also have an all-you-can-drink plan that includes draft beer, shochu sours and over 100 kinds of plum wine.


Ueno 1-20-11, Suzunoya Bldg 4F. Open 11am-4, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
A tofu and yuba specialty restaurant with branches throughout Japan. Full-course dinners range from Y3,600; lunch from Y1,900. Take-out bento are also available.
[Go to branch review] 

Ueno 1-20-11, Suzunoya Bldg 5F. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm (LO) daily.
Imahan (Ueno - Nabemono). 5688-0754
Sukiyaki and shabu-shabu made from Ohmi beef. Shabu-shabu from Y5500, kaiseki from Y12,000.


Ueno 1-20-11, Suzunoya Bldg 6F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Hokuhan (Ueno - Japanese regional). 3831-8759
Tohoku-style fish and other dishes. Prices tend to add up rather quickly, but the food is always top quality.

Ueno 6-7-10. Open 5-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Iwateya (Ueno - Japanese regional). 3836-9588
Reasonably priced food from Iwate Prefecture, along with local sake and shochu brands.

Yushima 3-38-8. Open 4-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Daiki (Ueno - Ramen). 3834-0348
The very popular ramen shop Daiki is known for their tasty chicken-based soup, available in both shio (salt) or shoyu (soy sauce) varieties. The "torisoba" option indicates a pure chicken-stock soup, although this option tends to sell out quickly.

Yushima 3-47-2. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Nearby
Hanamasa (Okachimachi - Retail). 5687-2987
Relatively inexpensive meats and produce, 24 hours a day.


Kojima 2-18-18. Open 24 hours a day.

Tamaya (Okachimachi - Bar). 5812-4345
Tamaya has all the makings of a great neighborhood wine bar: a lively but relaxed atmosphere, a well-chosen selection of reasonably priced wines; and tasty, tapas-sized dishes. The only problem is getting in. The bar, which can accommodate a mere 28, is so popular that it can be hard to get a seat without a reservation. Tamaya has all the makings of a great neighborhood wine bar: a lively but relaxed atmosphere, a well-chosen selection of reasonably priced wines; and tasty, tapas-sized dishes. The only problem is getting in. The bar, which can accommodate a mere 28, is so popular that it can be hard to get a seat without a reservation.
Seating on the non-smoking first floor is counter-only. In the brightly lit smoking section upstairs, a row of small tables is arranged in front of a long red banquette.
The weekly wine list spans the Old and New Worlds, but wines from France, Italy, and Spain tend to dominate. Most of the bottles are priced comfortably in the Y3000-4000 range, and many - if not all - can be seen on the tall shelves behind the bar seats, or in the fridge by the entrance. The list offers a number of easy-drinking, food-friendly wines such as Joseph Drouhin Bourgogne (Y3800) that go well with Tamaya's French- and Italian-inspired bar snacks.
Much of the food menu is comprised of sharable small plates (Y400-), and everything is nicely prepared. A scoop of chicken liver pate, whipped with a generous dose of cream, is light and fluffy, while the pork pate de campagne is satisfyingly dense. Twin skewers of grilled tsubugai, drizzled with garlic oil, have a hint of earthiness reminiscent of escargot. Slices of simply grilled aigamo duck are juicy and flavorful.
An intensely garlicky dish of sausage pasta, tossed with broccoli puree and olive oil may lack subtlety, but Tamaya is better suited to an evening out with friends than a romantic dinner a deux. Budget around Y4000 for ample food and drink. [Show more] [Show less] 
Ueno 1-10-10. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Ippudo (Okachimachi - Ramen). 5807-2772
A branch of the famous Hakata ramen chain, featuring thin, slightly chewy noodles in a pork-based broth ("red" or "white"), with or without extra chashu. You can add your own freshly grated garlic.
Ringer Hut (Okachimachi - Japanese regional). 5807-1045
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
Relatively inexpensive meats and produce, 24 hours a day.


Taito-ku, Negishi 4-17-12. Open 24 hours a day.
Relatively inexpensive meats and produce, 24 hours a day.


Taito-ku, Senzoku 3-10-2. Open 24 hours a day.
This venerable old tofu specialist (dating back to 1691) stands in a rather nondescript neighborhood about a 15-minute walk from the north end of Ueno Park. Multi-course meals feature tofu in all its variations, starting from around Y2000 for lunch and Y4200 for dinner, with some vegetarian options available.


Negishi 2-15-10. Open 11:30am-8pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Bon (Iriya - Shojin-ryori). 3872-0375
Beautifully prepared temple cuisine. Lunch/dinner ranges from 7,000 - 10,000 yen.
Asakusa
This casual cafe is run by Asahi Beer, on the grounds of their Philippe Starck-designed headquarters. Drinks include coffees, wine, and various Asahi and Asahi-imported beers, including three microbrews from the on-premises Sumidagawa Brewery. There's a fairly random cafe-style food menu - fried and grilled free-range chicken, Mexican pizza, chorizo sausages and keema curry. Dogs are welcome out on the wooden-deck terrace, where food and water are available.


Azumabashi 1-23-36, Annex Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-11pm daily.
Run by Asahi Beer and adjacent to their Philippe Starck-designed world headquarters building, this brewpub serves a couple of seasonal microbrews from their Sumidagawa Brewery, plus some unusual Asahi-branded beers. The food menu is typical German-influenced fare - eisbein (Y3500), sausages, roast chicken, cheese fondue and various snacks.


Azumabashi 1-23-36, Annex Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm daily.
Harmonic (Asakusa - Belgian rest/beer bar). 5608-3833
This Asahi Beer-run restaurant features several Asahi-imported Belgian beers (Hoegaarden, Leffe, Stella Artois) plus a few microbrews from the on-premises Sumidagawa Brewery. Food includes various sausages and pates, mussels, frites, and other typical Belgian bar fare. Budget around Y3000 for food and a few drinks.


Azumabashi 1-23-36, Annex Bldg 3F. Open 11:30am-2, 4-10:30pm daily.
Founded in 1880, this historic bar is best known as the originator of Denki Bran ("electric brandy"), a strangely compelling, rather sweet brandy-like liquor that's used in a variety of cocktails served here. Cheap prices and communal tables encourage a very interactive bar experience.


Asakusa 1-1-1. Open 11:30am-10pm. Closed Tuesdays.
The Ichibanya shop sells over a hundred varieties of sembei, with exotic flavors like garlic, wasabi, hot pepper, shiso, plum, seaweed and many more. You'll even find shrimp, bonito, cod roe and other seafood surprises. [
See photo feature.]


Asakusa 1-31-1. Open 9am-7pm daily.
Yumeya (Asakusa - Curry). 3841-1681
This rather unpretentious shop may not win any awards for their decor, but they serve up very good Indo-style Japanese curries and credible naans. A curry set with rice or naan (and Japanese curry-shop pickles) will run around Y1100; Y200 extra to super-size your curry portion.
Located at the top of the very cultural Amuse Museum, Bar Six offers a nice evening view of the illuminated pagoda and temple buildings of nearby Sensoji Temple. Weather permitting, the outdoor terrace seats offer the best view. Drinks include cocktails and a few Belgian beers, and the casual food menu includes tasty snacks like fried chicken.
Ringer Hut (Asakusa - Japanese regional). 5826-7362
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
This famous old shop specializes in dojo (a small eel-like fish), with full-course dinners from Y3800. They also offer a half-dozen variations of traditionally prepared whale meat. Seating is on tatami mats in a big central dining area.


Komagata 1-7-12. Open 11am-9pm daily.
Namiki (Asakusa - Soba/Udon). 3841-1340
Established in 1913, this well-known soba shop serves up noodles in a traditional setting, with cobblestoned floors and some tatami-mat seating, supplemented by big tables that are shared when it gets crowded. The tenzaru (Y1700) includes a tray of noodles and a hefty portion of plump, nicely fried shrimp tempura. When 5pm rolls around the restaurant starts to fill up with long-time local residents, plus the occasional tourist. English-language menus available.


Kaminarimon 2-11-9. Open 11:30am-7:30pm. Closed Thursdays.
The eel here is prepared the old-fashioned way, beginning once you've placed your order, and it's grilled quite thoroughly to complement the rich fattiness of the fish. The eel-liver clear soup (Y50 extra) is delectable - smoky but still delicately flavored. Budget around Y2300 for a basic lunch or dinner. (No lunch on Sundays.) This cozy little shop is piled high with decades worth of bric-a-brac, much of it sumo-themed. There's a small table for six built around a tiny central hearth, plus tight tatami seating for six more. A TV set plays in one corner.
The eel is prepared the old-fashioned way, beginning once you've placed your order, and it's grilled quite thoroughly to complement the rich fattiness of the fish. The eel-liver clear soup (Y50 extra) is delectable - smoky but still delicately flavored. Budget around Y2300 for a basic lunch or dinner. (No lunch on Sundays.) [Show more] [Show less] 

Kaminarimon 2-8-4. Open noon-2, 5-8pm daily.
Que Bom (Asakusa - Brazilian). 5826-1538
The Y3000 churrasco buffet at this lively music bar features fifteen different Brazilian delicacies - grilled beef, pork and chicken, linguica sausage, and feijoada black-bean stew among them. Wash it all down with caipirinha and other Brazilian cocktails and wines. Check the calendar of live music and art exhibitions on their website (que-bom.com).


Nishi-Asakusa 2-15-13 B1F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO). Closed Mondays.
Oiwake (Asakusa - Izakaya). 3844-6283
This izakaya has three shows per night of traditional shamisen performance, with a Y2000 music charge. The food and drink are standard izakaya fare.


Nishi-Asakusa 3-28-11. Open 5:30-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Oshiage (Skytree)
Five of the most popular Japanese curry shops in Tokyo's Kanda area have gotten together to create this casual shop where you can try their curries individually or in various combinations. A set of all five curries is priced at Y2600.
Big fat burgers and mahi-mahi sandwiches from the famous Hawaiian burger chain.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 1F East Yard 39. Open 10am-10pm daily.
The Skytree branch of one of Tokyo's better sake retailers.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 1F East Yard 47. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Great espresso and drip coffee from the oddly named Harajuku-based coffee shop Be A Good Neighbor. Wintertime drinks also include hot cocoa, hot lemonade and flavored teas, with pastries to go with.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 2F East Yard 81. Open 10am-9pm daily.
This gorgeous cafe, created by Tokyo design studio Wonderwall, has an open kitchen where you can watch chocolates being made. Hot chocolates are served in the cafe section, and the take-out counter serves up chocolate pastries to go.

Run by a 300-year-old trading and canned-foods company, this free mini-museum and showroom focuses on Japanese food-packaging design over the past 100 years, showing off design classics like Akebono-brand salmon's red-and-white striped can (1910), Morinaga milk caramels (1914), and S&B Curry (1954). Run by a 300-year-old trading and canned-foods company, this free mini-museum and showroom focuses on Japanese food-packaging design over the past 100 years, showing off design classics like Akebono-brand salmon's red-and-white striped can (1910), Morinaga milk caramels (1914), and S&B Curry (1954).
The "warehouse" section exhibits traditional food products from all over Japan - miso paste, soy sauce, sake, tsuyu and dashi sauces. There's also an exhibit of noteworthy eki-ben - bento boxes from train stations around the country. And the attached cafe serves up original-recipe gourmet dishes made from canned foods. [Show more] [Show less] 

Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 5F East Yard. Open 10am-9pm daily.
Amara (Oshiage - Indian). 5809-7161
If you're in the mood for Indian food at Skytree, this is the place. The Solamachi Set, with vegetable and shrimp curries, salad, kebab, nan and yogurt, is Y1580.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Bincho (Oshiage - Unagi). 5619-5757
Excellent Nagoya-style grilled unagi eel is served here, grilled over the finest binchotan charcoal and served with their own special low-salt tamari sauce. Hitsumabushi (a traditional Nagoya serving style) menus are Y3,150-9,700; regular eel donburi starts at Y2,380.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Rikyu (Oshiage - Japanese regional). 5610-2855
Good charcoal-grilled beef tongue from this Sendai-based chain. You'll also find beef-tongue curries, stews, sausages and other yoshoku-style dishes, along with regional sake from Miyagi Prefecture.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Toriton (Oshiage - Sushi). 5637-7716
Reliable, inexpensive conveyor-belt sushi.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 6F East Yard. Open 11am-11pm daily.
This very popular shop is known for their tsukemen, served with a thick, richly flavored dipping sauce made with pork, seafood and vegetables. Prepare to wait on line during busy times.
Maekawa (Oshiage - Unagi). 5610-3099
Tokyo-style grilled eel from a Komagata-based shop. Unagi donburi starts at Y4050 for lunch or dinner.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 7F East Yard. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Five beers from different parts of the world are served on tap here, supplemented by 150 more by the bottle. The tap selection includes beer from Pike Brewing Company in Seattle, a craft beer that's otherwise not available in Tokyo, as well as selections from the UK, Germany, Belgium and Czech. The "world food" menu also features dishes from those five countries. Five beers from different parts of the world are served on tap here, supplemented by 150 more by the bottle. The tap selection includes beer from Pike Brewing Company in Seattle, a craft beer that's otherwise not available in Tokyo, as well as selections from the UK, Germany, Belgium and Czech. The "world food" menu also features dishes from those five countries.
Budget around Y3500 for food and drink; you can also shop at the adjacent retail counter for beers to go. Reservations can be made on weekdays only. [Show more] [Show less] 

Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 7F East Yard 2. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
In addition to their flagship beer, this popular Asahi-run pub pours a rotating roster of draft beers like Leffe, Bass Pale Ale and Hoegaarden; they also serve several varieties of Leffe by the bottle. There's an inexpensive menu of pub food to accompany your drinks.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 30F East Yard. Open 11am-11pm daily.
A tourist-friendly outlet of the popular upscale French wine-bar chain. Prix-fixe lunches are priced Y2,800-Y9,800, dinners Y6,500-Y11,000.
Kunimi (Oshiage - Tofu). 5809-7100
Tofu-based kaiseki cuisine, accompanied by a close-up view of Tokyo Skytree. A lunchtime bento is Y2835, and kaiseki service is Y5250-12600.


Oshiage 1-1-2, Tokyo Solamachi 31F East Yard. Open 10am-10pm (LO) daily.
Located in the middle of the very impressive food hall inside Solamachi shopping mall, Kitano Ace carries some rather specialized products, including 400 different pouch curries from shops all over Japan. Located in the middle of the very impressive food hall inside Solamachi shopping mall, Kitano Ace carries some rather specialized products, including 400 different pouch curries from shops all over Japan.
Curries range in price from Y270 to over Y1000 per box, and include unusual variations such as inoshishi (wild boar), melon, strawberry, yuzu and natto. There's also an extensive selection of jams, shelves and shelves full of bottled sauces, and fresh ramen kits from famous ramen shops around the country. [Show more] [Show less] 

Oshiage 1-1-2, Solamachi West Yard 2F (Food Marche). Open 10am-9pm daily.
Rotisserie chicken is the highlight of the menu at this Spanish-Italian chain restaurant. Open until 4am, Rigoletto is one of the few late-night choices in the neighborhood. Budget around Y3000 at dinnertime.
The chef here is a veteran of a hotel restaurant in Kerala, in southern India, and the chef's menu (Y3500) includes three Indian curries along with European-style appetizers and three desserts. Wine starts at Y2000/bottle or Y450/glass, and there's also cider, Calvados, grappa and other unexpected drink choices. The set lunch is Y950. [See
FULL REVIEW.]


Sumida-ku, Bunka 1-6-10. Open 11:45am-2, 2-4, 6-10pm. Closed Mon, 3rd Tue.