Once housed inside a huge tent, this restaurant has reopened in a more modern setting but one with a similar atmosphere - customers perch on carpet-covered platforms around tiny tables, and enjoy semi-authentic Mongolian-style dishes like karahi, a spicy stew that goes well with their yogurt sauce and garlic rice. There's also a choice of kebabs and other items brought out on skewers.

Higashi-Nakano 2-25-6. Open 6pm-midnight (LO 10:45). Closed Mondays.

Marvel at the huge selection of authentic French terrines, quiches, tarts and cakes to take out. From the management of Brin de Muguet restaurant in Ogikubo.

Higashi-Nakano 3-1-17. Open 8am-midnight. Closed Mondays.

Thirty varieties of fantastic thin-crusted pizzas are ready to eat in or take out. The pizza makers trained in Naples, and they use a wood-burning pizza oven. Pizzas start at around Y1300.

Higashi-Nakano 3-8-3. Open 11:30am-3, 3-10pm (LO) daily.

This rather serious liquor store carries lots of limited-edition premium sakes from around the country, including a big selection of premium one-cup sake. They also handle shochu and awamori.

Kami-Takada 1-49-12. Open 10am-6:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.

A casual, inexpensive izakaya that also serves as an informal Ainu cultural center. (The name means "Wind House" in Ainu.) Ainu food is a lot like Hokkaido cooking (lots of salmon dishes, potato dumplings, etc.) but with more garlic and ginger. The soups are definitely worth a try.

Arai 1-37-12. Open 5-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.

This casual neighborhood izakaya has reasonably priced food.

Nakano 5-42-11. Open 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.

(Pronounced "Zanc") A friendly neighborhood bar with a good assortment of Belgian beers, an electronic dartboard, and simple Japanese/Korean snacks.

Arai 2-30-11. Open 5pm-5am daily.

A small wine bar with a limited food menu and late-night hours.

Nakano 5-36-3, Takaden Nakano Bldg B1F. Open 7pm-4am (LO) daily.

This is the kind of vegetarian Chinese that specializes in crafty "imitation meat" dishes alongside the more recognizable tofu and vegetable items. The results are quite tasty and varied in flavor - it's amazing just what you can do with mushrooms, wheat gluten, nuts, lotus root and other vegetables. It's just a tiny counter with nine stools, a TV set on the wall, a friendly mama-san, and shockingly cheap prices.

Nakano 5-52-15, Nakano Broadway 2F. Open 11:30am-3:30, 5-8pm. Closed Sundays.

It's not fancy, but with its reliable food and very reasonable prices, this small yakitori chain offers good value for money.

Nakano 5-54-3. Open 5-11pm daily.

The building may look like it's falling apart, but the bar itself is quite cozy and comfortable. It's run by a Buddhist monk, and he sometimes puts on CDs of Buddhist chanting as background music.

Nakano 5-55-6, 2F. Open 7:30pm-4am. Closed Sundays.

A cute cafe with a reasonably priced food menu. Open for lunch on weekends only.

Nakano 5-57-9. Open 6pm-1am (LO) daily.

Excellent grilled fish and meat cooked over an open hearth, robata-style. There's also sashimi and plenty of standard izakaya fare. The charmingly rustic two-story building is reminiscent of a country farmhouse.

Nakano 5-59-3. Open 11:30am-1, 4-9:20pm (LO) daily.

It's worth coming here for the music alone - a fantastically eclectic mix from all over Asia and the rest of the world. The drinks menu includes coffee, tea, chai, Balinese rice wine, Thai soy milk, exotic cocktails and organic fruit juices. Food includes a nice selection of home-made desserts (all day long) and dishes like Tibetan dumplings (highly recommended) and tofu salad. The tiny chairs and tables don't encourage too much lingering, but this is an essential stop on a Nakano tour.

Nakano 5-32-9. Open 7:30-11:30am, noon-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.

Despite the close quarters, Navel is a relaxing place to enjoy a couple of drinks and a bite to eat. Around ten wines are available by the glass (Y300-), and selections change daily. [See FULL REVIEW.]

Nakano 2-30-8, Tachikawa Bldg B1F. Open 5pm-4am daily.

A very casual local (non-standing) bar with reasonably priced wines. Most food items are priced at Y400 and come in tiny, bite-size portions.

Nakano 3-35-6. Open 5pm-3am daily.

Terrific Turkish, Tunisian, and Lebanese specialties, great music, and a very comfortable atmosphere. The wine list covers the Mediterranean from Spain to Algeria to Morocco, with some nice Spanish choices. The couscous and tajine dishes are especially good, as are the lamb kebabs and the mixed appetizer platters.

Nakano 3-34-3. Open 6-10pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

Mugs Cafe is the joint venture of three young designers, and the decor is a fusion of fifties cool and Asian lounge. The pan-Asian menu lists unusual items such as bahn mi Vietnamese sandwiches (Y800) and cold tofu topped with Chinese preserved eggs (Y500). Nestled in among a warren of residences and mom-and-pop stores, this Nakano chill zone offers a place to meditate over your mocha. A placid gold Buddha sits beside an old-fashioned globe in the center of the room, which is dominated by an autumnal color scheme.

Mugs Cafe is the joint venture of three young designers, and the decor is a fusion of fifties cool and Asian lounge. Sheep dangle from a mobile over Eames-style fiberglass chairs and black leather couches. On the walls hang paintings and photos by local artists.

The pan-Asian menu is written on the wall-cum-blackboard behind the kitchen area and lists unusual items such as bahn mi Vietnamese sandwiches (Y800) and cold tofu topped with Chinese preserved eggs (Y500). They also have a few Middle Eastern dishes like falafel (Y700) and Turkish rice pudding (Y450). Thumb through the stacks of design magazines while you sip on a cup of coffee, or tuck into a late lunch. Lunch specials change daily and are available until 4pm. [Show more] [Show less]

Chuo 5-48-5. Open noon-11pm. Closed Mondays.

A large, lively izakaya that occasionally hosts performances of Okinawan musicians. There's a long counter and big tatami mat area - both usually packed. The staff wear Okinawan costumes, there's non-stop Okinawan music in the air, and the counter is decorated with cans of Spam, taco sauce, and other Okinawan delicacies. The food is wonderful and fairly cheap - highlights include their goya champuru, goat soup, and the papaya pickled in miso. The drinks menu includes original awamori cocktails and Okinawan microbrew beer.

Koenji-Kita 3-2-13. (located along the shopping street on the north side of the station) Open 5pm-5am daily.

Make yourself comfortable at Koenji's Cafe Apartment, where you are given a pair of slippers at the door. The floor plan is that of a 1DK apartment, strikingly similar to the domiciles of many Tokyoites. Low tables and soft cushions line the walls; green plants inhabit the corners. Picture books and magazines await perusal, while crayons and white paper placemats are provided for more creative moments. Make yourself comfortable at Koenji's Cafe Apartment, where you are given a pair of slippers at the door. The floor plan is that of a 1DK apartment, strikingly similar to the domiciles of many Tokyoites. Low tables and soft cushions line the walls; green plants inhabit the corners. Picture books and magazines await perusal, while crayons and white paper placemats are provided for more creative moments.

Relax with a decadent Royal Mango Milk Tea or a cold bottle of Corona with lime. The food menu is limited to a few variations on omu-rice (Y980 each) and the croque monsieur (Y680), plus a few small dishes like sausage links and pickles.

Each season, the cafe showcases special desserts from around the world. Vietnam is the current destination on the "world sweets tour," with tapioca and sweet beans over crushed ice topped with coconut milk, banana chips, and nuts. Monthly Friday-Flyday nights feature live music for free or a small charge. [Show more] [Show less]

Koenji-Kita 3-2-15 2F. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.

A trendy bar/restaurant run by Mugendo, a cute ethnic trinket shop. The food is Vietnamese, Indian, Thai and Okinawan; the music and decor are similarly eclectic. Small dishes start at around Y500.

Koenji-Minami 4-22-5-B1F. Open 6pm-midnight (Sat, Sun 5pm-). Closed Wednesdays.

Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian dishes at cheap prices, with lunch and dinner "sets" starting at Y750. Lunch served to 4pm.

Koenji-Minami 3-58-25, 2F. (along the PAL shopping street, about 3 min. south of the JR station) Open 11am-11:30pm (LO) daily.

The entryway is plastered with sake labels (usually a good sign), and the sake selection is from all over Japan, with well-chosen seasonal brews that change every month. The yakitori is outstanding, served with a nice bowl of home-made chicken broth to start your meal. A 9-skewer yakitori assortment is Y2000.

Koenji-Minami 4-6-1, Asahi Bldg. B1F. (walk 3 or 4 minutes south along the PAL shopping street from the station; it's just off that street on the left) Open 5-11:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.

The interior of this cute and friendly cafe skillfully combines wood and metal, but marble is strangely absent. Chill out to wispy indie folk pop with a cup of tea and some spiced yogurt (Y500) or choose one of their special desserts. Menu changes daily.

Koenji-Minami 2-14-2. (about 10 min. down the main street leading south from the JR station, on the left) Open noon-midnight. Closed Mondays.

A neighborhood izakaya with a focus on regional premium sakes. There's a hand-written list of limited-edition sake that changes every month.

Asagaya-Kita 2-15-4. Open 6-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.

A small neighborhood joint (it would be hard to find if you didn't stumble across it) with about a dozen seats and authentic Thai food. They serve good curries and some unusual regional Thai dishes; they also offer Thai cooking classes.

Asagaya-Kita 2-9-5. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.

It's not fancy, but with its reliable food and very reasonable prices, this small yakitori chain offers good value for money.

Kami-Ogi 1-10-9. (from the JR west exit go out the north side and turn left; it's a block past the bowling alley) Open 5-11:30pm (Sundays 10). Closed Mondays.

Post-shopping sushi at affordable prices; set meals range from Y1500-3800, and lunch starts at Y1000.

Kami-Ogi 1-7-1, Lumine 5F. Open 11am-10pm daily.

Above-average budget Chinese in a spiffed-up dining room; the specialties are dim sum (including soup-filled shoronpo dumplings), Chinese desserts (featuring their home-made sweet tofu), and noodles, plus a dozen varieties of Chinese tea. Almost the entire menu is available for take-out.

Kami-Ogi 1-7-1, Lumine 5F. Open 11am-10pm daily.

Fresh, not-too-expensive tempura in a pleasant department-store setting from this Shinjuku-based chain.

Kami-Ogi 1-7-1, Lumine 5F. Open 11am-10pm daily.

Traditional French cuisine at friendly prices, although they have some upmarket wines if you're in the mood to splurge.

Ogikubo 5-14-4. (down near the end of the Suzuran-dori shopping street) Open 11:30am-2 (LO), 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.

This small neighborhood yoshoku-ya serves "European stews and English curries." The flavor of the curry is rather unique and very appealing - similar to other European-style Japanese curries but with an intriguing hint of medicinal herbs. This small neighborhood yoshoku-ya serves "European stews and English curries." Curry sauces are built on a fond de veau base and incorporate some 36 different spices, all on display on the shop's counter. The flavor of the curry is rather unique and very appealing - similar to other European-style Japanese curries but with an intriguing hint of medicinal herbs.

We enjoyed a mild, "creamy" Hokkaido veal curry, and we highly recommend the seasonal vegetable option (Y300 extra), which features around ten different vegetables such as asparagus, okra and lotus root. There's also a popular beef-tongue curry, which might be an even better match for the rather assertive sauce. Y2000 for veal curry with extra vegetables and dessert. [Show more] [Show less]

Ogikubo 5-20-7. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.

Various Japanese-style vegetarian and health-food-oriented dishes. There's a fairly large organic fruit and vegetable shop downstairs. No smoking.

Ogikubo 5-27-5. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-9:30pm. Closed Sundays.

Standard izakaya fare, but prepared very well.

Ogikubo 5-30-8. Open 11:30am-1:45, 5:30pm-midnight (LO) daily.

Hidden among the quiet streets north of Nishi Ogikubo station lies Copo do Dia, a tiny cafe that also functions as an informal Brazilian cultural center. The space, with its heavy wooden tables and simple white walls, is largely unadorned, the vibe calm and friendly. [See FULL REVIEW.]

Nishi-Ogi-Kita 4-26-10-103. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wed, 1st+3rd Tue.

A comfortable smoke-free cafe that serves good Singapore-style chicken rice, although unfortunately they only serve it with fragrant jasmine rice on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month; you get regular rice the rest of the time. Other dishes include very good Malaysian curries with excellent fried roti (bread), and other Malaysian/Singaporean specialties. There's a tiny art gallery located right next door.

Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-21-2. Open 11am-9:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.

A bohemian-style cafe with music and food from Southeast Asia and the rest of the world. The menu at lunchtime is mostly Vietnamese, but there's a wider selection in the evening, including pastas.

Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-31-5, 1F. Open 11:30am-2am (4am Fri,Sat) daily.