Higashi-Nakano
A neighborhood hangout with very good, authenic Spanish food and drink at inexpensive prices.
Higashi-Nakano 1-22-18. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Excellent miso ramen.
Higashi-Nakano 1-31-8. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Pao (Middle Eastern). 3371-3750
We love it when restaurants improve with age, and the food at Pao has gotten noticeably better over time. It was always a fun destination - you sit on thick carpets at tiny tables while listening to great music from Afghanistan and environs - and it attracts a young and hip crowd. The menu focuses on the cuisines of northern Pakistan and Afghanistan - the area around Peshawar to be exact - and native chefs prepare excellent kebabs, lamb dishes, and a variety of spicy stews (called karahi). The grilled haloumi, garlicky stir-fried lettuce and grilled tomatoes make nice starters.
Higashi-Nakano 2-25-6. Open 6pm-midnight (LO 10:45). Closed Mondays.
Marvel at the huge selection of authentic French terrines, quiches, tarts and cakes to take out. From the management of Brin de Muguet restaurant in Ogikubo.
Higashi-Nakano 3-1-17. Open 8am-midnight. Closed Mondays.
The pizza makers here trained in Naples, and they use a wood-burning pizza oven. Some thirty varieties of fantastic thin-crusted pizzas are ready to eat in or take out.
The extensive sake collection here includes a good range of Juyondai, including some rare bottles. The master is quite exacting in his recommendations, so be prepared to be quizzed about your tastes in sake; the reward will be an introduction to some unusual brews. The food is also top-notch, with good grilled fish and chicken. Budget around Y4,000-7,000.
Higashi-Nakano 4-2-25. Open 5pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
The very artsy cafe includes a gallery space in back where you can catch the latest exhibit while enjoying coffee or cocktails; there's also window seating up front, a few outdoor tables, and a movie theater in the basement. Drinks include Chinese teas, hot cocktails (rum and apple, coffee and cointreau), and eight Belgian beers by the bottle. The food menu is limited to curry rice and a smattering of small deli items.
This rather serious liquor store carries lots of limited-edition premium sakes from around the country, including a big selection of premium one-cup sake. They also handle shochu and awamori.
Kami-Takada 1-49-12. Open 10am-6:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Nakano
This casual neighborhood izakaya has reasonably priced food.
Nakano 5-42-11. Open 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Very good, authentic south Indian cuisine - the nan and tandoori items are especially good. Lunch starts at around Y800, with a curry-and-tandoori thali platter for Y1150. Budget around Y2000 for dinner.
Arai 1-23-23. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Zinc (Belgian rest/beer bar). 5343-2164
(Pronounced "Zanc") A friendly neighborhood bar with a good assortment of Belgian beers, an electronic dartboard, and simple Japanese/Korean snacks.
Cakes, pies, cookies and muffins made by New York baker Kyle Sexton.
Arai 2-7-10. Open 10am-6pm. Closed Sundays.
Splendid cooking by a great Italian chef. Lunch Y1000-1800; dinner Y3500 and Y5000.
Nakano 4-7-2. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
A small wine bar with a limited food menu and late-night hours.
This is the kind of vegetarian Chinese that specializes in crafty "imitation meat" dishes alongside the more recognizable tofu and vegetable items. The results are quite tasty and varied in flavor - it's amazing just what you can do with mushrooms, wheat gluten, nuts, lotus root and other vegetables. It's just a tiny counter with nine stools, a TV set on the wall, a friendly mama-san, and shockingly cheap prices.
Nakano 5-52-15, Nakano Broadway 2F. Open 11:30am-3:30, 5-8pm. Closed Sundays.
It's not fancy, but with its reliable food and very reasonable prices, this small yakitori chain offers good value for money.
Nakano 5-54-3. Open 5-11pm daily.
The building may look like it's falling apart, but the bar itself is quite cozy and comfortable. It's run by a Buddhist monk, and he sometimes puts on CDs of Buddhist chanting as background music.
Nakano 5-55-6, 2F. Open 7:30pm-4am. Closed Sundays.
The ramen at this popular shop comes with big slabs of chashu that taste almost like ham.
Nakano 5-58-1. Open 10am-7pm. Closed Thursdays.
Excellent grilled fish and meat cooked over an open hearth, robata-style. There's also sashimi and plenty of standard izakaya fare. The charmingly rustic two-story building is reminiscent of a country farmhouse.
Nakano 5-59-3. Open 11:30am-1, 4-9:20pm (LO) daily.
First-rate Miyazaki chicken dishes, regional Kyushu fare and local shochu brands are the specialties at this reasonably priced, unpretentious Miyazaki-based izakaya chain. Budget around Y3000-4000 for dinner with drinks. Open until 2am (LO) Fridays and Saturdays.
[Go to branch review] Nakano 5-60-13, KM Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-midnight (LO) daily.
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
It's worth coming here for the music alone - a fantastically eclectic mix from all over Asia and the rest of the world. The drinks menu includes coffee, tea, chai, Balinese rice wine, Thai soy milk, exotic cocktails and organic fruit juices. Food includes a nice selection of home-made desserts (all day long) and dishes like Tibetan dumplings (highly recommended) and tofu salad. The tiny chairs and tables don't encourage too much lingering, but this is an essential stop on a Nakano tour.
Nakano 5-32-9. Open 7:30-11:30am, noon-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Navel (Wine bar). 5340-5808
Despite the close quarters, Navel is a relaxing place to enjoy a couple of drinks and a bite to eat. Around ten wines are available by the glass (Y300-), and selections change daily. This tiny wine bar occupies a sliver of space in the basement of an easily overlooked building, one minute away from Nakano station. It's a counter-only affair, and despite the close quarters, Navel is a relaxing place to enjoy a couple of drinks and a bite to eat. Around ten wines are available by the glass (Y300-), and selections change daily. There's no wine list, but the friendly and knowledgeable bartender will recommend one for you based on your preferences.
Like the bar itself, the food menu is small, but all of the dishes are reasonable (Y399-) and nicely done. Tasty snacks like homemade sausage patties, melted Camembert cheese, and grilled seafood are prepared on a diminutive iron griddle behind the counter.
In addition to wine, there is a large selection of distilled spirits - from single malts to unaged corn whiskey, and a range of eaux de vie. If you understand Japanese and you're curious about the difference between Cognac and Armagnac, tequila and mescal, or grappa and marc, this is a good place to ask. The bartender will be happy to expound on the topic. [Show more] [Show less] A very casual local (non-standing) bar with reasonably priced wines. Most food items are priced at Y400 and come in tiny, bite-size portions.
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
Terrific Turkish, Tunisian, and Lebanese specialties, great music, and a very comfortable atmosphere. The wine list covers the Mediterranean from Spain to Algeria to Morocco, with some nice Spanish choices. The couscous and tajine dishes are especially good, as are the lamb kebabs and the mixed appetizer platters.
Nakano 3-34-3. Open 6-10pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Authentic Italian fare prepared by an Italian-trained chef
Nakano-ku, Chuo 5-46-5. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Mugs Cafe is the joint venture of three young designers, and the decor is a fusion of fifties cool and Asian lounge. The pan-Asian menu lists unusual items such as bahn mi Vietnamese sandwiches (Y800) and cold tofu topped with Chinese preserved eggs (Y500). Nestled in among a warren of residences and mom-and-pop stores, this Nakano chill zone offers a place to meditate over your mocha. A placid gold Buddha sits beside an old-fashioned globe in the center of the room, which is dominated by an autumnal color scheme.
Mugs Cafe is the joint venture of three young designers, and the decor is a fusion of fifties cool and Asian lounge. Sheep dangle from a mobile over Eames-style fiberglass chairs and black leather couches. On the walls hang paintings and photos by local artists.
The pan-Asian menu is written on the wall-cum-blackboard behind the kitchen area and lists unusual items such as bahn mi Vietnamese sandwiches (Y800) and cold tofu topped with Chinese preserved eggs (Y500). They also have a few Middle Eastern dishes like falafel (Y700) and Turkish rice pudding (Y450). Thumb through the stacks of design magazines while you sip on a cup of coffee, or tuck into a late lunch. Lunch specials change daily and are available until 4pm. [Show more] [Show less] Nakano-ku, Chuo 5-48-5. Open noon-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Koenji
A large, lively izakaya that occasionally hosts performances of Okinawan musicians. There's a long counter and big tatami mat area - both usually packed. The staff wear Okinawan costumes, there's non-stop Okinawan music in the air, and the counter is decorated with cans of Spam, taco sauce, and other Okinawan delicacies. The food is wonderful and fairly cheap - highlights include their goya champuru, goat soup, and the papaya pickled in miso. The drinks menu includes original awamori cocktails and Okinawan microbrew beer.
Make yourself comfortable at Koenji's Cafe Apartment, where you are given a pair of slippers at the door. The floor plan is that of a 1DK apartment, strikingly similar to the domiciles of many Tokyoites. Low tables and soft cushions line the walls; green plants inhabit the corners. Picture books and magazines await perusal, while crayons and white paper placemats are provided for more creative moments. Make yourself comfortable at Koenji's Cafe Apartment, where you are given a pair of slippers at the door. The floor plan is that of a 1DK apartment, strikingly similar to the domiciles of many Tokyoites. Low tables and soft cushions line the walls; green plants inhabit the corners. Picture books and magazines await perusal, while crayons and white paper placemats are provided for more creative moments.
Relax with a decadent Royal Mango Milk Tea or a cold bottle of Corona with lime. The food menu is limited to a few variations on omu-rice (Y980 each) and the croque monsieur (Y680), plus a few small dishes like sausage links and pickles.
Each season, the cafe showcases special desserts from around the world. Vietnam is the current destination on the "world sweets tour," with tapioca and sweet beans over crushed ice topped with coconut milk, banana chips, and nuts. Monthly Friday-Flyday nights feature live music for free or a small charge. [Show more] [Show less] Koenji-Kita 3-2-15 2F. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Part of a popular izakaya chain, Himonoya specializes in himono (grilled dried fish), with a big menu of different varieties from around Japan. There's also plenty of good regional sake. Budget around Y2-3000 per person for food and drink.
Spicy (but not crazy-spicy) Chinese-style tantanmen noodles in a thick, pork-filled soup are the specialty at this small shop. They also serve good gyoza dumplings as a side dish.
Koenji-Kita 3-2-17. Open 11:30am-1am daily.
Good, solid American diner fare is the draw at Fatz's - tasty burgers, hearty sandwiches, tempting mozzarella sticks, milkshakes and banana splits. The menu lists eight burger variations with names like The Corleone (with zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers, mozzarella and meat sauce) and The Longhorn (topped with home-made chili, Cheddar and Havarti). Or you can create your own custom burger with over a dozen optional toppings such as mushrooms, grilled vegetables, jalapenos and various cheeses. Good, solid American diner fare is the draw at Fatz's - tasty burgers, hearty sandwiches, tempting mozzarella sticks, milkshakes and banana splits. The menu lists eight burger variations with names like The Corleone (with zucchini, eggplant, bell peppers, mozzarella and meat sauce) and The Longhorn (topped with great home-made chili, Cheddar and Havarti). Or you can create your own custom burger with over a dozen optional toppings such as mushrooms, grilled vegetables, jalapenos and various cheeses.
While you're waiting for your burger to be grilled, the nachos con carne (Y600) are a great side dish - tortilla chips covered with two types of melted cheese, fresh salsa, guacamole, and some kick-ass chili. Non-beefy menu options include Pacific salmon burgers, shrimp-avocado sandwiches, and a grilled chicken of the day sandwich, prepared with an ever-changing list of pre-grill marinades.
At lunchtime there's a smaller menu - just plain burger platters with cole slaw, fries and a beverage for Y850; optional cheese, bacon and avocado toppings are Y100 each. There's also a nice beer selection, with US microbrews from Brooklyn Brewery, Kona Brewing and Anchor. And for just Y500 a bottle, four very drinkable Kirkland-brand microbrews - amber ale, pale ale, IPA and Belgian white.
In addition to counter seating there's one picnic table out front in the courtyard. Everything on the menu is available to take out. [Show more] [Show less] Koenji-Kita 3-21-19, Lions Plaza Koenji E. Open noon-3, 6-10pm (Sun noon-6pm). Closed Mondays, 3rd Tuesday.
This neighborhood brewpub, located in a residential zone north of Koenji station, offers a limited but ever-changing selection of beers brewed on-premises, in styles like pale ale, weizen and red ale. (There's also Kirin on tap for when the home-made stuff runs out.) The small food menu includes fish and chips, grilled garlic chicken and a few salads. There's a small outdoor seating area for when tne weather permits.
Koenji-Kita 2-24-8. Open 4-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
A trendy bar/restaurant run by Mugendo, a cute ethnic trinket shop. The food is Vietnamese, Indian, Thai and Okinawan; the music and decor are similarly eclectic. Small dishes start at around Y500.
Koenji-Minami 4-22-5-B1F. Open 6pm-midnight (Sat, Sun 5pm-). Closed Wednesdays.
Khana (Nepalese). 5306-1626
Nepalese, Tibetan and Indian dishes at cheap prices, with lunch and dinner "sets" starting at Y750. Lunch served to 4pm.
Koenji-Minami 3-58-25, 2F. (along the PAL shopping street, about 3 min. south of the JR station) Open 11am-11:30pm (LO) daily.
With its overhead backlit menus and unpretentious furnishings, this late-night joint looks like a cross between a fast-food stand and a Chinese noodle shop. The unusual specialty of the house is Korean futomaki - fat sushi rolls filled with vegetables, bulgogi, cheese, kimchee, glutinous black rice - some ten variations in all, including a sampler set if you can't decide. With its overhead backlit menus and unpretentious furnishings, this late-night joint looks like a cross between a fast-food stand and a Chinese noodle shop. Posters and framed photos of Korean boy bands decorate the walls, and nonstop K-Pop plays in the background.
The unusual specialty of the house is Korean futomaki - fat sushi rolls filled with vegetables, bulgogi, cheese, kimchee, glutinous black rice - some ten variations in all, including a sampler set if you can't decide.
Rounding out the menu are plenty of Korean standards (and a few not-so-standards) - nice garlicky gyoza dumplings, chijimi pancakes, bibimba and other rice dishes, chige stews, a page of noodle dishes - with makkoli, soju and beer to drink. Prices are cheap, and everything on the menu is ready to take out. [Show more] [Show less] The entryway is plastered with sake labels (usually a good sign), and the sake selection is from all over Japan, with well-chosen seasonal brews that change every month. The yakitori is outstanding, served with a nice bowl of home-made chicken broth to start your meal. A 9-skewer yakitori assortment is Y2000.
Koenji-Minami 4-6-1, Asahi Bldg. B1F. (walk 3 or 4 minutes south along the PAL shopping street from the station; it's just off that street on the left) Open 5-11:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
The interior of this cute and friendly cafe skillfully combines wood and metal, but marble is strangely absent. Chill out to wispy indie folk pop with a cup of tea and some spiced yogurt (Y500) or choose one of their special desserts. Menu changes daily.
Koenji-Minami 2-14-2. (about 10 min. down the main street leading south from the JR station, on the left) Open noon-midnight. Closed Mondays.
Planet 3rd is a pocket of urban cool off the beaten track in Koenji. The spacious interior is well designed, the atmosphere open and friendly. Check your email at one of the free computer terminals and then sit back and enjoy your coffee. Dogs are also welcome!
Koenji-Minami 2-49-18. Open 11:30am-midnight daily.
Good, very reasonably priced Korean barbecued pork is the specialty at this casual neighborhood spot.
Koenji-Minami 3-36-17. Open 3pm-midnight daily.
Asagaya
A small neighborhood joint (it would be hard to find if you didn't stumble across it) with about a dozen seats and authentic Thai food. They serve good curries and some unusual regional Thai dishes; they also offer Thai cooking classes.
Asagaya-Kita 2-9-5. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
A small, budget French restaurant for the neighborhood; lunch is Y1500.
Asagaya-Kita 4-6-29. Open 5:30-9pm (LO). Closed Thursdays.
Ogikubo
It's not fancy, but with its reliable food and very reasonable prices, this small yakitori chain offers good value for money.
Kami-Ogi 1-10-9. (from the JR west exit go out the north side and turn left; it's a block past the bowling alley) Open 5-11:30pm (Sundays 10). Closed Mondays.
Above-average budget Chinese in a spiffed-up dining room; the specialties are dim sum (including soup-filled shoronpo dumplings), Chinese desserts (featuring their home-made sweet tofu), and noodles, plus a dozen varieties of Chinese tea. Almost the entire menu is available for take-out.
Kami-Ogi 1-7-1, Lumine 5F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Fresh, not-too-expensive tempura in a pleasant department-store setting from this Shinjuku-based chain.
Kami-Ogi 1-7-1, Lumine 5F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
This long-running shop (founded in Showa 24) serves classic Tokyo-style ramen in a shoyu soup that's made with dried sardines. The wonton-men is especially recommended.
Kami-Ogi 1-4-6. Open 11am-9:30pm daily.
First-class soba -- they also had a very popular branch in New York City's Soho neighborhood.
Traditional French cuisine at friendly prices, although they have some upmarket wines if you're in the mood to splurge.
Ogikubo 5-14-4. (down near the end of the Suzuran-dori shopping street) Open 11:30am-2 (LO), 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Sympa (Wine bar). 3220-2888
This wine-bar restaurant is run by the chef from the old Dominus wine bar (which used to occupy this space) along with a new sommelier.
Ogikubo 5-16-23, B1F. Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Wednesdays.
This small neighborhood yoshoku-ya serves "European stews and English curries." The flavor of the curry is rather unique and very appealing - similar to other European-style Japanese curries but with an intriguing hint of medicinal herbs. This small neighborhood yoshoku-ya serves "European stews and English curries." Curry sauces are built on a fond de veau base and incorporate some 36 different spices, all on display on the shop's counter. The flavor of the curry is rather unique and very appealing - similar to other European-style Japanese curries but with an intriguing hint of medicinal herbs.
We enjoyed a mild, "creamy" Hokkaido veal curry, and we highly recommend the seasonal vegetable option (Y300 extra), which features around ten different vegetables such as asparagus, okra and lotus root. There's also a popular beef-tongue curry, which might be an even better match for the rather assertive sauce. Y2000 for veal curry with extra vegetables and dessert. [Show more] [Show less] Ogikubo 5-20-7. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
Standard izakaya fare, but prepared very well.
Ogikubo 5-30-8. Open 11:30am-1:45, 5:30pm-midnight (LO) daily.
Excellent home-style Korean cooking. No lunch on weekends.
Ogikubo 4-20-15. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm. Closed Mondays.
Mr. Toko prepares excellent pizzas and other Italian fare, as well as surprising items like paella and guacamole. The smallish dining room has around four tables and a tiny counter.
Ogikubo 4-21-11. Open 5:30-10:30pm. Closed Sunday, Monday.
Nishi-Ogikubo
Hidden among the quiet streets north of Nishi Ogikubo station lies Copo do Dia, a tiny cafe that also functions as an informal Brazilian cultural center. The space, with its heavy wooden tables and simple white walls, is largely unadorned, the vibe calm and friendly. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Nishi-Ogi-Kita 4-26-10-103. Open 3-11:30pm (LO). Closed Wed, 1st+3rd Tue.
Good, reliable yakitori and Yebisu beer.
Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-19-12. Open 4pm-midnight daily.
A comfortable smoke-free cafe that serves good Singapore-style chicken rice, although unfortunately they only serve it with fragrant jasmine rice on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month; you get regular rice the rest of the time. Other dishes include very good Malaysian curries with excellent fried roti (bread), and other Malaysian/Singaporean specialties. There's a tiny art gallery located right next door.
Masa (Yakitori). 3395-9667
While you can find interesting and unusual sake choices at this old-school yakitori shop, the operation feels a bit disorganized - several of our choices were out of stock or almost finished, and it may be easier to simply check their refrigerated cabinet rather than their menu. (Do check the prices when you order though, as they stock some very premium brands.) Our yakitori assortment had a bit too much skin and offal for our taste, but the stuffed chicken wings (tebasaki gyoza) were outstanding. There's a big menu of non-chicken items as well, most of it fairly traditional izakaya fare.
Nishi-Ogi-Kita 3-31-10. Open 5:30pm-midnight. Closed some Mondays.
Good, reliable yakitori and Yebisu beer.
Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-11-6. Open 4-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Splendid food, with generous portions. The decor is on the casual side, featuring exotic musical instruments and burlap bags, and tables are spaced widely enough to provide a little privacy. There's a good selection of salsa on the stereo, a large drinks menu, and they're open late.
This lively neighborhood drinking spot is a branch of the long-established Fujintei izakaya a few blocks away, and the spacious, comfortable second floor is the place to be. The menu is disarmingly eclectic - Taiwanese sausage, charcoal-grilled prawns, shashlik kebabs made from premium Yamagata pork - and everything we've tried has been first-rate. The sake list is small but serviceable - this is the kind of place where you find a label you like and stick with it, rather than exploring different breweries.
Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-14-12. Open 4pm-12:30am (LO) daily.
An old-fashioned drinking spot with eclectic food and varied sake at reasonable prices.
Nishi-Ogi-Minami 3-8-8. (down a tiny alley on the left side, just off the main street leading south from the JR station) Open 5:30pm-midnight (LO) daily.
(Listings are continued in the
Kichijoji guide.)
