Shimo-Kitazawa/ Yoyogi-Uehara
Picks:
Japanese: Fuku
Western: Leroux (French)
Exotica: Gatemo Tabum (Bhutanese)
Most original concept: Asa (hemp restaurant)
Budget: Y500 snacks at Big Chief
Sake: Tenmamichi; Sasagin
Beer: Ushi-Tora; Beer Rock
More drinks: vinegar-based cocktails at Marusan Foods
Late-night hangouts: Fireking Cafe; 3rd Stone; Gendai Heights Cafe; Enotria Diana
This guide covers the area along the Odakyu line from Sangubashi to Shimo-Kitazawa.
Sangubashi
Kri-Kri (Middle Eastern). 5388-9376 Cozy surroundings, unhurried service (unfortunately), and foods from all over, including the Mid-East and North Africa.   Yoyogi 3-38-12. Open 6-11pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays. | |
A little neighborhood shop serving okonomiyaki and Tokyo-style monjayaki, plus meats and seafood grilled teppanyaki-style. What sets them apart, though, is their menu of imported German beers - Edelweiss, Schneiderweise, Frankenheim and Krombacher to name a few - which are well-suited to the food. | |
A convenient place to eat before or after an afternoon in Yoyogi Park, this casual neighborhood brasserie offers outdoor seating and allows dogs. The Y1200 lunchtime deli platter is a good deal - it includes soup, salad, quiche, terrines and several other items along with coffee, espresso or tea. Budget around Y4000 at dinnertime. Yoyogi 5-63-10. Open 11:30am-3, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Tue, 1st + 3rd Wed. | |
ARMS (Sandwiches/burgers). 3466-5970 You'll find excellent gourmet hamburgers at this pleasant little parkside cafe, including some interesting special toppings that change seasonally. Yoyogi 5-64-7. (across from the west entrance to Yoyogi Park, between Yoyogi-Koen and Sangubashi stations) Open 11am-11pm daily. | |
Yoyogi-Koen
Former Danish Embassy chef Thilak Basnayaka prepares modern Scandinavian cuisine at this comfortable little cafe near Yoyogi Park. Dinner service is by reservation only. Tomigaya 1-16-11. Open 10am-6pm (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
Yoyogi-Uehara
Gaya (Izakaya). 3481-5255 A cozy, friendly neighborhood izakaya with good fish and oysters in season. This bustling basement restaurant offers expertly prepared, impressively authentic Szechuan cuisine. Steamed chicken and fried tofu in sesame sauce is perfectly spicy and smoky, a soup of Szechuan pickles and bean thread noodles light and piquant. Shrimp and wontons are drizzled with fiery la-yu and encircled with thin blades of suirensai, a green vegetable reminiscent of morning glory. Uehara 1-29-5. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays, 3rd Tues. | |
With its spacious, lively dining room, convenient late-night hours, huge bar and wide-ranging food menu, Fireking has established itself as the hub of Uehara nightlife since its opening in 2000. It's busy until late at night with an eclectic and hip crowd. | |
Once known for their amazing sake selection, excellent food, and good prices, Sasagin still offers an amazing sake selection. There's some decent food too, but the menu is hit-and-miss, as is the service. Uehara 1-32-15. Open 5-11pm (to 10:30pm Sat.) (LO). Closed Sundays. | |
Serving a menu of well-prepared tapas dishes and inexpensive wines, Biscotti makes a good refueling stop when you're in the neighborhood. The lentil-chorizo soup is a standout, and the chef isn't afraid to bring on the garlic in his sauteed shrimps and similar dishes. With its well-prepared tapas dishes and inexpensive wines, Biscotti makes a good refueling stop when you're in the neighborhood. The lentil-chorizo soup is a standout, and the chef isn't afraid to bring on the garlic in his sauteed shrimps and similar dishes.
The decor is casually modern without being sterile, with lots of rough wood textures and a big central table that encourages a convivial atmosphere. Large windows look out over the Yoyogi-Uehara station and the street. All dishes are Y600, and there's a choice of several economical wines priced at Y600 per tumbler. Lunch is served weekdays only. [Show more] [Show less] Uehara 1-32-18, Kobayashi Bldg 2F. Open noon-2, 5-11pm (LO; drinks -11:30pm) daily. | |
Savory and sweet buckwheat pancakes are the specialty at this cheery bistrot-style spot, with toppings like shrimp and avocado, smoked salmon and sour cream, and gorgonzola and honey. The pancakes are thicker than Bretagne-style galettes - more like American breakfast pancakes. You'll also find various starters, pastas, and excellent Roman-style thin-crust pizzas, all at reasonable prices. Uehara 1-36-14. Open 11:45am-2, 5:30-9:30pm (LO) daily. | |
A tiny cafe with a limited menu of four Bhutanese stews with rice, including a fiery version of ema datshi, a cheese and chili stew that's Bhutan's national dish. The other stews (pork and daikon, chicken, potato-cheese) are milder, and you can opt for a two-stew combo plate for Y900. There are also a few salads, fried tofu, and a tasty "Indian snack mix" with chopped vegetables and Masala spice. The drinks menu offers Edelpils beer on tap, German and Chilean wines, and Bhutanese rum, whisky, and teas. Classical music plays in the background, and the cafe is entirely non-smoking, just like Bhutan itself. | |
Dish (Wine bar). 5465-6455 In laid-back Yoyogi-Uehara, magazine-reading, designer sneaker-wearing hipsters gather at Dish, a cheerful cafe just a stone's throw from the station. The space has an open, casual feel, decorated with urban mod flourishes - colorful sofas, fiberglass bucket chairs, and sixties-era bric-a-brac - that recall San Francisco's Mission district or Williamsburg in Brooklyn. Bouncy ska and Cuban R&B keep the mood lively, and original art is exhibited along the right-hand wall. [See FULL REVIEW.] | |
First-rate pizzas, creative Italian-Japanese fusion cuisine and Belgian beers are served here in an elegant but comfortable dining room - a nice setting for a date or special celebration. The original branch is in Karuizawa. Budget around Y6000 per person for food and drink. Moto-Yoyogi 16-16. Open 5:30-10pm. Closed Mon, Tue.  Fuku (Yakitori). 3485-3234 The grilled chicken here is just about perfect - the wings and the "kashiwa" (chunks of chicken thigh) are especially recommended, and most of the side dishes and non-chicken grilled items are excellent as well. The setting is spare and stylish, with slightly cramped seating but a friendly and low-key atmosphere. Budget around Y3000 with drinks (which include a few good sake brands). [See FULL REVIEW.] Nishihara 3-23-4. Open 5:30-11:30pm. Closed Wednesdays. | |
The menu includes California-style sandwiches, salads, rotisserie chicken and some 50 New World wines, including 20 wines by the glass. There's an excellent weekend brunch (served till 5pm Saturday and Sunday) featuring delicious homemade breads and cakes as well as H&H bagels imported from New York. (Weekday lunch is also served till 5pm.) The open-air seating is very pleasant during the warmer months. Moto-yoyogi 23-11. (between Yoyogi-Koen and Uehara stations) Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
Higashi-Kitazawa
This multi-purpose art space/cafe-bar is way off the beaten track but it draws a crowd of loyal regulars, including personalities from the Tokyo art scene and local hipsters. During the day you'll find standard cafe lunches (pastas, curries) served till 6pm, plus gourmet coffees - they roast their own beans once a week. This multi-purpose art space/cafe-bar is way off the beaten track but it draws a crowd of loyal regulars, including personalities from the Tokyo art scene and local hipsters.
The incense-hazed CD shop up front is well-stocked in obscure avant-garde music from the past two decades; just past that is a retail corner selling videos, artsy toys, mens' hats and art magazines. In back is a gallery, and in between is a spacious cafe-bar area.
During the day you'll find standard cafe lunches (pastas, curries) served till 6pm, plus gourmet coffees - they roast their own beans once a week. At night there's a bigger cafe food menu plus wide-ranging cocktails (150 kinds of drinks in all); beers include the excellent Edelpils on tap for Y850/pint. The wall of vinyl records spans everything from contemporary classical to obscure folk music, but tends toward the mellow end of the spectrum in the evenings. [Show more] [Show less] Kitazawa 1-45-36. Open 1pm-midnight. Closed Wednesdays. | |
Moroccan cuisine. Kitazawa 3-1-15, Coop Inage. Open 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays. The Egyptian fare at this tiny deli-style shop is tasty and impressively inexpensive. Well-seasoned mutton and chicken-spinach curries run Y500-600, and come with rice or pita bread. Chicken and lamb shawarma sandwiches (Y500) make a nice take-out snack along with simple but delectable side dishes like tabouli salad and fuul (mashed fava beans with peppers, olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic). The Egyptian fare at this tiny deli-style shop is tasty and impressively inexpensive. Well-seasoned mutton and chicken-spinach curries run Y500-600, and come with rice or pita bread. Chicken and lamb shawarma sandwiches (Y500) make a nice take-out snack along with simple but delectable side dishes like tabouli salad and fuul (mashed fava beans with peppers, olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic).
Keeping with Cairo tradition, the falafel here is also prepared with fava beans rather than chickpeas. The shop has four small tables, but many customers opt for take-out. [Show more] [Show less] Kitazawa 3-2-11. Open 11am-8:30pm. Closed Sundays. | |
Shimo-Kitazawa
A more casual sister shop of the excellent Emilia restaurant in Harajuku, Bar Alimentari Daniela offers inexpensive snacks and drinks as well as Y2000-3600 prix-fixe dinners and a Y4500 three-pasta dinner. Daizawa 5-16-23. Open 8am-11:30pm (LO; from 10am weekends) daily. This live music venue also serves lunch and keeps their bar open until 3am. | |
A three-story Okinawan restaurant - the first floor has a noodle-shop atmosphere, with inexpensive Okinawan soba. The second floor is more of a nomiya, with some 50 different types of awamori; while the third floor is more of a Western-style bar. The same food menu is available throughout, with nicely prepared Okinawan standards. | |
Sashimi is the specialty here, along with a nice sake selection. Kitazawa 2-1-1. Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
The decor here is all earth tones, raw concrete and slabs of wood, with a big tree sitting right in the middle of the floor. Music ranges from reggae to laid-back rock, and the atmosphere is totally chilled-out - people talk in hushed voices, which may be exactly what you need when you stumble in here at 3am. It's "cafe time" from 2-7pm, with coffee and cake. No table charge; no English. | |
They've pulled out all the stops to recreate the feel of an open-air Italian caffe-bar here - barrel tables, chalkboard menus, old advertising posters, grafitti on the walls, hams hanging from the ceiling, with Italian radio providing the soundtrack. They've pulled out all the stops to recreate the feel of an open-air Italian caffe-bar here - barrel tables, chalkboard menus, old advertising posters, grafitti on the walls, hams hanging from the ceiling, with Italian radio providing the soundtrack.
The eight wines by the glass go well with the carpaccio of the day (served with tangy fresh rocket leaves) or the Y1000 cold-cut platter (generous portions of prosciutto, salami and speck). Other choices include grilled meats, antipasti and salads, with huge pints of Belgian Hoegaarden white beer a refreshing alternative to wine. [Lunch from 11:30am on weekends.] [Show more] [Show less] | |
Cheap and cheerful are the bywords at this Osaka-based yakitori chain, with all dishes and drinks priced at Y294. Besides the usual yakitori (the wings are suprisingly good) there are entertaining items like Indian-inspired naan pizza, camembert croquettes (served with extra butter), and a good selection of fresh vegetables. The shop attracts a young crowd, and it fills up pretty quickly, so get there early or be prepared to wait on line. | |
Open-air seating, late-night hours and a dog-friendly policy are some of the attractions of this back-street cafe. There's an eclectic food menu (tasty roast duck, avocado caprese, pizzas), assorted beers, cocktails, and wines. | |
An upscale Italian venture from the diverse Jackpot chain, with excellent food and more spacious seating arrangements than average. Kitazawa 2-19-13. Open noon-2, 5:30-10:30pm daily. | |
A popular, cozy little hideaway serving Vietnamese standards; around Y4000 for dinner with a few drinks. Kitazawa 2-19-17, Sawadaya Bldg. B1F. Open 5-11:30pm (from noon on weekends). Open every day. | |
In addition to the typical selection of sashimi, grilled fish and other izakaya fare, Tenmamichi also offers a nice variety of kushiage (deep-fried skewers of seafood, vegetables and meats) and oden (stewed fishcakes in broth). But the real lure here is the sake list, where you can find unusual brews from small craft brewers around the country, often from small batches that never make it to retail liquor shops. In addition to the typical selection of sashimi, grilled fish and other izakaya fare, Tenmamichi also offers a nice variety of kushiage (deep-fried skewers of seafood, vegetables and meats) and oden (stewed fishcakes in broth). But the real lure here is the sake list, where you can find unusual brews from small craft brewers around the country, often from small batches that never make it to retail liquor shops.
The large basement dining area is stylishly decorated, with a big counter, comfortable little nooks, and tatami seating for larger parties. Budget around Y3000-5000 for ample food and drink. [Show more] [Show less] Kitazawa 2-20-2, City Hotel Lefa B1F. Open 6-11pm daily. | |
Good, modern Vietnamese cuisine served in a stylish setting. Their Australian wines make a nice alternative to 333 Beer. Kitazawa 2-13-4. Open noon-10:30pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays. | |
High-quality budget Italian, nice-size portions and a good wine selection. Kitazawa 2-13-4, 2F. Open 11:30am-10:30pm (LO) daily. | |
This unusual merger of an oden shop and a soul music bar lets you listen to classic seventies soul in the background as you enjoy Shizuoka-style oden (it comes in a darker, beefier broth than the Tokyo version). Budget around Y2000-3000. Kitazawa 2-6-6, #202. (near Honda Theater front entrance) Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Sundays. | |
An extensive vinegar menu is one of Marusan's quirky features: they list several pages of oddly compelling vinegar-based cocktails and soft drinks, and even the food menu has a vinegar soup section (punnily listed as "su-pu"). The atmosphere is laid back, with comfortable sofas and jazz on the stereo. All the food we tried was top-notch; our champuru stir-fry filled with lots of fresh vegetables and our tender grilled chicken set off by an excellent spinach sauce. | |
This tiny, ramshackle hole-in-the-wall is a late-night Shimo-Kitazawa legend, going strong since 1974. The space behind the bar is filled with mountains of CDs and shelves of vinyl (many of them 70s UK glam rock and local Japanese bands), and the seating area is so small that you have to step outside to let other customers in and out. When you order a drink the bartender telephones the similarly dilapidated sister bar just upstairs (Trouble Peach) and they deliver. (Y400 cover charge.) | |
This tiny basement bar hosts live performances from local jazz musicians a few evenings a week, and plays a wide assortment of jazz CDs and videos the rest of the time. | |
Alicia (Japanese/health food). 3485-3681 The atmosphere may seem somber, but the carefully constructed vegetarian dishes are first-rate. Kitazawa 2-9-23, Dai-ni Suzuki Building 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-7pm. Closed Mondays. Ushi-tora is a specialty beer bar that attracts Japanese connoisseurs from all over town with its collection of twenty beers on tap, most of them local microbrews. We recommend the Yona Yona Real Ale, one of three traditional cask-conditioned "real ales" that are hand-pumped. Ushi-tora is a specialty beer bar that attracts Japanese connoisseurs from all over town with its collection of twenty beers on tap, most of them local microbrews. We recommend the Yona Yona Real Ale, one of three traditional cask-conditioned "real ales" that are hand-pumped.
The small food menu is good and inexpensive, with tasty beer-friendly dishes like deep-fried octopus, fish and chips, spicy fried chicken and shepherd's pie. The atmosphere is quiet and low-key, and service (in Japanese) is friendly and helpful. Beers rotate frequently, so every visit can be a new experience. [Show more] [Show less] | |
This quiet late-night bar serves a nice selection of cocktails and attracts an eclectic, grown-up clientele. The stylish lounge-type space is dimly lit, with a few comfortable seating areas and a decent sound system. Kitazawa 2-9-3 3F, Miku Bldg 3F. Open 7pm-4am daily. | |
Fashioned after an American roadside diner, Village Vanguard offers diner-style comfort food, including tasty apps like mozarella croquettes and entertaining burger variations such as garlic mushroom and pepper-cheddar (topped with a thick slab of ham). The world beer selection includes something for everyone; Budvar, Orval, and an intriguing banana beer caught our attention. The musical background veers towards '50s and '60s rock and roll. Daita 6-3-1, Livable Shimo-Kitazawa B1F. Open 11:30am-midnight daily. | |
One of Tokyo's many ethnic-style cafes, with Indian-style curries, tea and desserts, imported handicrafts and a charmingly laid-back atmosphere. Around Y1000 at lunch (weekends only); Y2500 at night. Kitazawa 2-26-13. Open 5-11pm (from noon weekends). Closed Tuesdays. | |
A spacious, high-ceilinged bakery-cafe in the midst of Shimo-Kitazawa's young-fashion shopping district. The menu includes casual dishes like shrimp and avocado salad with French toast and cream cheese risotto with chestnuts, plus some elaborate desserts. Kitazawa 2-29-2. Open 11am-8pm daily. | |
The Cajun dishes here (gumbo, catfish po-boys) are better than your typical late-night bar fare; the chicken stewed in beer is our favorite. Nearly everything on the menu is Y500, including cocktails. | |
This tiny bar serves inexpensive cocktails and offers a small food menu - chicken curry, taco rice, pizza. In the daytime it's called Curry Tarot Cafe on weekdays (with curries and tarot readings) and Cafe Here Scenes Friday through Sunday. | |
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: Open late
: Notable decor
