Shimo-Kitazawa/ Yoyogi-Uehara

Sangubashi

En Okonomiyaki (Okonomiyaki). 3376-3433
A little neighborhood shop serving okonomiyaki and Tokyo-style monjayaki, plus meats and seafood grilled teppanyaki-style. What sets them apart, though, is their menu of imported German beers - Edelweiss, Schneiderweise, Frankenheim and Krombacher to name a few - which are well-suited to the food.
lateSunmapYoyogi 4-50-6. Open 5pm-1am (LO) daily.
Violette (French). 5738-3295
A convenient place to eat before or after an afternoon in Yoyogi Park, this casual neighborhood brasserie offers outdoor seating and allows dogs. The Y1200 lunchtime deli platter is a good deal - it includes soup, salad, quiche, terrines and several other items along with coffee, espresso or tea. Budget around Y4000 at dinnertime.
SunmapYoyogi 5-63-10. Open 11:30am-3, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Tue, 1st + 3rd Wed.
Arms (Sandwiches/burgers). 3466-5970
You'll find excellent gourmet hamburgers at this pleasant little parkside cafe, including some interesting special toppings that change seasonally.
SunmapYoyogi 5-64-7. (across from the west entrance to Yoyogi Park, between Yoyogi-Koen and Sangubashi stations) Open 11am-11pm daily.

Yoyogi-Koen

Newzea Platform (Wine bar). 5790-9445
Occupying what must be one of Shibuya's thinnest buildings, this specialty bar serves around two dozen New Zealand wines, including several by the glass, as well as three different beers from Stoke, a New Zealand microbrewery. On the first floor is a relaxed, open-air bar; there's also seating on the fourth-floor terrace (until 11pm) and a full-service restaurant on the third floor. (Don't worry, there's an elevator.) Wines start at Y750/glass, and there's no cover charge.
mapKamiyamacho 42-3. Open 11:30am-2, 6pm-1am. Closed Sundays.
A spacious cafe with an Australian beach motif, Bondi serves international-style cafe fare, including pizzas from a wood-burning oven, along with reasonably priced wines (Y2200 for a 500ml carafe of house wine) and cocktails. There's a comfortable lounge area in back, plain old picnic tables in the main dining room, and outdoor group seating in front of the cafe, facing the not-at-all beachlike Yoyogi Park.
lateSunmapTomigaya 1-15-2. Open 9am-2am daily.
!Fuglen (Bar). 3481-0884
Japanese and Norwegian craft beers and artisanal cocktails are served at this very stylish Norwegian bar - the main branch is in Oslo. During the day they offer serious espresso beverages and tea, and attract a good-sized following thanks to the comfortable setting and the free wifi. [Show more]
SunmapTomigaya 1-16-11. Open 8am-midnight. Closed Mondays, Tuesdays.
Ahiru Store (Wine bar). 5454-2146
Good luck getting into this "secret wine bar" that everybody knows about; they don't take reservations after 6:30pm, so be prepared to line up. Wines from the rotating list - mostly French, mostly biodynamique - start at Y800 a glass, while the food tends toward simple but well-prepared bistro fare along with fresh-baked bread. Budget around Y6000-8000 for dinner and drinks.
mapTomigaya 1-19-4. Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Cristiano's (Portuguese). 5790-0909
One of Tokyo better Portuguese restaurants, with nice grilled dishes. Budget around Y4500 at dinnertime.
SunmapTomigaya 1-51-10. Open 6pm-midnight (LO). Closed Mondays.
Arms (Burgers). 3466-5974
Good burgers to go, including some interesting seasonal variations, at this take-out-only branch of the popular gourmet burger shop. They also offer delivery service to most of Shibuya-ku.
SunmapTomigaya 1-9-21. Open 11am-10pm. Closed Mondays.

Yoyogi-Uehara

!Fireking Cafe (Cafe). 3469-7911
With its spacious, lively dining room, convenient late-night hours, huge bar and wide-ranging food menu, Fireking has established itself as the hub of Uehara nightlife since its opening in 2000. It's busy until late at night with an eclectic and hip crowd.
lateSunmapUehara 1-30-8. Open 11:30am-2am daily.
Sasagin (Japanese). 5454-3715
Once known for their amazing sake selection, excellent food, and good prices, Sasagin still offers an amazing sake selection. There's some decent food too, but the menu is hit-and-miss, as is the service.
mapUehara 1-32-15. Open 5-11pm (to 10:30pm Sat.) (LO). Closed Sundays.
Gatemo Tabum (Bhutanese). 3466-9590
A tiny cafe with a limited menu of four Bhutanese stews with rice, including a fiery version of ema datshi, a cheese and chili stew that's Bhutan's national dish. The other stews (pork and daikon, chicken, potato-cheese) are milder, and you can opt for a two-stew combo plate for Y900. There are also a few salads, fried tofu, and a tasty "Indian snack mix" with chopped vegetables and Masala spice. The drinks menu offers Edelpils beer on tap, German and Chilean wines, and Bhutanese rum, whisky, and teas. Classical music plays in the background, and the cafe is entirely non-smoking, just like Bhutan itself.
no smokingSunmapUehara 1-22-5. Open noon-2, 6-11pm. Closed Mondays.
Dish (Wine bar). 5465-6455
In laid-back Yoyogi-Uehara, magazine-reading, designer sneaker-wearing hipsters gather at Dish, a cheerful cafe just a stone's throw from the station. The space has an open, casual feel, decorated with urban mod flourishes - colorful sofas, fiberglass bucket chairs, and sixties-era bric-a-brac - that recall San Francisco's Mission district or Williamsburg in Brooklyn. Bouncy ska and Cuban R&B keep the mood lively, and original art is exhibited along the right-hand wall. [See FULL REVIEW.]
lateSunmapUehara 1-33-16, Otsuka Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-3am daily.
En Boca (Italian). 5452-1699
First-rate pizzas, creative Italian-Japanese fusion cuisine and Belgian beers are served here in an elegant but comfortable dining room - a nice setting for a date or special celebration. The original branch is in Karuizawa. Budget around Y6000 per person for food and drink.
SunmapMoto-Yoyogi 16-16. Open 5:30-10pm. Closed Mon, Tue.
Ippudo (Ramen). 6407-5151
A branch of the famous Hakata ramen chain, featuring thin, slightly chewy noodles in a pork-based broth ("red" or "white"), with or without extra chashu. You can add your own freshly grated garlic.
SunmapNishihara 3-2-4, Frontier Yoyogi Uehara B1F. Open 11am-1am daily.
!Fuku (Yakitori). 3485-3234
The grilled chicken here is just about perfect - the wings and the "kashiwa" (chunks of chicken thigh) are especially recommended, and most of the side dishes and non-chicken grilled items are excellent as well. The setting is spare and stylish, with slightly cramped seating but a friendly and low-key atmosphere. Budget around Y3000 with drinks (which include a few good sake brands). [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunmapNishihara 3-23-4. Open 5:30-11:30pm. Closed Wednesdays.
West Park Cafe (International). 5478-6065
The menu includes California-style sandwiches, salads, rotisserie chicken and some 50 New World wines, including 20 wines by the glass. There's an excellent weekend brunch (served till 5pm Saturday and Sunday) featuring delicious homemade breads and cakes as well as H&H bagels imported from New York. (Weekday lunch is also served till 5pm.) The open-air seating is very pleasant during the warmer months.
SunmapMoto-yoyogi 23-11. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
Mi Choripan (Argentine). 5790-9300
Mi Choripan proudly serves up "Argentinian Soul Food" - aka overstuffed chorizo-sausage sandwiches seasoned with chimichurri sauce, which are sold from street stalls in Argentina and other parts of Latin America, and now in Tokyo. Sausages are grilled to order while you wait, and while they're quite good on their own, we'd recommend springing for an extra Y300 to liven up your sandwich with the shop's selection of optional toppings.
SunmapUehara 2-4-8. Open 11am-6pm. Closed Saturdays.

Higashi-Kitazawa

Gendai Heights Cafe (Cafe). 3469-1659
This multi-purpose art space/cafe-bar is way off the beaten track but it draws a crowd of loyal regulars, including personalities from the Tokyo art scene and local hipsters. During the day you'll find standard cafe lunches (pastas, curries) served till 6pm, plus gourmet coffees - they roast their own beans once a week. [Show more]
SunmapKitazawa 1-45-36. Open 1pm-midnight. Closed Wednesdays.
Enrique Maruesco (Middle Eastern). 3467-1106
Moroccan cuisine.
mapKitazawa 3-1-15, Coop Inage. Open 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Uchimura Egyptian Deli Shop (Middle Eastern). 3468-2715
The Egyptian fare at this tiny deli-style shop is tasty and impressively inexpensive. Well-seasoned mutton and chicken-spinach curries run Y500-600, and come with rice or pita bread. Chicken and lamb shawarma sandwiches (Y500) make a nice take-out snack along with simple but delectable side dishes like tabouli salad and fuul (mashed fava beans with peppers, olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic). [Show more]
mapKitazawa 3-2-11. Open 11am-8:30pm. Closed Sundays.

Shimo-Kitazawa

Daniela (Italian). 3487-6086
A more casual sister shop of the excellent Emilia restaurant in Harajuku, Bar Alimentari Daniela offers inexpensive snacks and drinks as well as Y2000-3600 prix-fixe dinners and a Y4500 three-pasta dinner.
SunmapDaizawa 5-16-23. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
440 (Bar). 3422-9449
This live music venue also serves lunch and keeps their bar open until 3am.
lateSunmapDaizawa 5-29-15. Open 11:30am-3:30 (LO), 5:30pm-3am daily.
Champrouse (Okinawan). 3413-6489
A three-story Okinawan restaurant - the first floor has a noodle-shop atmosphere, with inexpensive Okinawan soba. The second floor is more of a nomiya, with some 50 different types of awamori; while the third floor is more of a Western-style bar. The same food menu is available throughout, with nicely prepared Okinawan standards.
lateSunmapDaizawa 5-32-7. Open 6pm-1am. Closed Mondays.
Uoshin (Izakaya). 3419-5584
Sashimi is the specialty here, along with a nice sake selection.
SunmapKitazawa 2-1-1. Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
3rd Stone Cafe (Bar). 5481-3350
The decor here is all earth tones, raw concrete and slabs of wood, with a big tree sitting right in the middle of the floor. Music ranges from reggae to laid-back rock, and the atmosphere is totally chilled-out - people talk in hushed voices, which may be exactly what you need when you stumble in here at 3am. It's "cafe time" from 2-7pm, with coffee and cake. No table charge; no English.
lateSunmapKitazawa 2-14-1, OT Bldg 3F. Open 2pm-5am daily.
Torikizoku (Yakitori). 5787-6766
Cheap and cheerful are the bywords at this Osaka-based yakitori chain, with all dishes and drinks priced at Y294. Besides the usual yakitori (the wings are suprisingly good) there are entertaining items like Indian-inspired naan pizza, camembert croquettes (served with extra butter), and a good selection of fresh vegetables. The shop attracts a young crowd, and it fills up pretty quickly, so get there early or be prepared to wait on line.
lateSunmapKitazawa 2-19-17, Sawadaya Bldg 2F. Open 6pm-3am (LO) daily.
!Tenmamichi (Kushiage). 5486-0088
In addition to the typical selection of sashimi, grilled fish and other izakaya fare, Tenmamichi also offers a nice variety of kushiage (deep-fried skewers of seafood, vegetables and meats) and oden (stewed fishcakes in broth). But the real lure here is the sake list, where you can find unusual brews from small craft brewers around the country, often from small batches that never make it to retail liquor shops. [Show more]
SunmapKitazawa 2-20-2, City Hotel Lefa B1F. Open 6-11pm daily.
Tag Cafe (Cafe). 6450-7253
Tucked away in a back alley near Shimo-Kitazawa station, Tag is a pleasantly relaxing spot for an afternoon break. The musical soundtrack is on the mellow side, and tablet computers are supplied on every table for your browsing needs (along with free WiFi). [Show more]
SunmapKitazawa 2-12-10, Southside II 2B. Open noon-11:15pm (LO) daily.
La Verde (Italian). 3419-6615
High-quality budget Italian, nice-size portions and a good wine selection.
SunmapKitazawa 2-13-4, 2F. Open 11:30am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Excello (Oden). 3465-6154
This unusual merger of an oden shop and a soul music bar lets you listen to classic seventies soul in the background as you enjoy Shizuoka-style oden (it comes in a darker, beefier broth than the Tokyo version). Budget around Y2000-3000.
mapKitazawa 2-6-6, #202. (near Honda Theater front entrance) Open 6pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Marusan Foods (Cafe). 3485-3838
An extensive vinegar menu is one of Marusan's quirky features: they list several pages of oddly compelling vinegar-based cocktails and soft drinks, and even the food menu has a vinegar soup section (punnily listed as "su-pu"). The atmosphere is laid back, with comfortable sofas and jazz on the stereo. All the food we tried was top-notch; our champuru stir-fry filled with lots of fresh vegetables and our tender grilled chicken set off by an excellent spinach sauce.
lateSunmapKitazawa 2-8-5, AN Bldg 3F. Open noon-3am daily.
Eat a Peach (Bar). 3460-1468
This tiny, ramshackle hole-in-the-wall is a late-night Shimo-Kitazawa legend, going strong since 1974. The space behind the bar is filled with mountains of CDs and shelves of vinyl (many of them 70s UK glam rock and local Japanese bands), and the seating area is so small that you have to step outside to let other customers in and out. When you order a drink the bartender telephones the similarly dilapidated sister bar just upstairs (Trouble Peach) and they deliver. (Y400 cover charge.)
lateSunmapKitazawa 2-9-18. Open 8pm-8am daily.
Apollo (Bar). 090-2906-8082
This tiny basement bar hosts live performances from local jazz musicians a few evenings a week, and plays a wide assortment of jazz CDs and videos the rest of the time.
lateSunmapKitazawa 2-9-22, Eiko Shimo-Kitazawa Bldg B1F. Open 8pm-3am daily.
Alicia (Japanese/health food). 3485-3681
The atmosphere may seem somber, but the carefully constructed vegetarian dishes are first-rate.
SunmapKitazawa 2-9-23, Dai-ni Suzuki Building 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-7pm. Closed Mondays.
!Ushi-Tora (Beer bar). 3485-9090
Ushi-tora is a specialty beer bar that attracts Japanese connoisseurs from all over town with its collection of twenty beers on tap, most of them local microbrews. We recommend the Yona Yona Real Ale, one of three traditional cask-conditioned "real ales" that are hand-pumped. [Show more]
lateSunmapKitazawa 2-9-3, Miku Bldg 2F. Open 5pm-2am. Closed 1st and 4th Tuesdays.
Village Vanguard Diner (American). 3481-5620
Fashioned after an American roadside diner, Village Vanguard offers diner-style comfort food, including tasty apps like mozarella croquettes and entertaining burger variations such as garlic mushroom and pepper-cheddar (topped with a thick slab of ham). The world beer selection includes something for everyone; Budvar, Orval, and an intriguing banana beer caught our attention. The musical background veers towards '50s and '60s rock and roll.
SunmapDaita 6-3-1, Livable Shimo-Kitazawa B1F. Open 11:30am-midnight daily.
Sunday Brunch (Cafe). 5453-3366, 5453-1313
A spacious, high-ceilinged bakery-cafe in the midst of Shimo-Kitazawa's young-fashion shopping district. The menu includes casual dishes like shrimp and avocado salad with French toast and cream cheese risotto with chestnuts, plus some elaborate desserts.
SunmapKitazawa 2-29-2. Open 11am-8pm daily.
Robson Fries (Canadian). 6407-1485
Poutine - that peculiar Canadian version on french fries served with gravy and cheese - is the exotic specialty at this small take-out shop. They're served with toppings ranging from fried onions and garlic to meatballs and roast beef, and you can also opt for variations featuring chili and butter-chicken curry instead of just gravy. Chicken wings are available as a side dish - Buffalo, Cajun or BBQ style. [Show more]
SunmapKitazawa 2-31-5. Open noon-9pm. Closed Tuesdays.
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