Shibuya to Kotto-dori
The large menu features unusual meats like rabbit, boar, deer, horse and frog as well as more common ones. You'll find a nice sake selection and over fifty kinds of shochu. Budget around Y5500.
Shibuya 1-5-6. Open 6pm-1am (LO; 10pm Sun) daily.
Tasteful lighting highlights the sleek design at this sophisticated dining bar. Bizuri serves unusual drinks like shochu mixed with green tea and modern pan-Asian cuisine. Popular with the ladies.
Shibuya 1-6-10. Open 11:50am-11:50pm. Closed Sundays.
A small, friendly little bar that offers lots of live music and art events, including belly dancing.
Shibuya 1-6-3. Open 11:30am-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Moyan offers a huge variety of tasty Japanese-style curries and ethnic-style side dishes, along with inexpensive wines and cocktails.
[Go to branch review] Shibuya 1-7-5, Seven Heights 1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
The smart interior here is a very Tokyo-exotic mix of baked-mud walls, heavy wooden furniture, and organic-looking extra-terrestrial lighting fixtures like something from the set of "Alien". But you're really here for the wine - over 100 different varieties, from all regions of Australia and New Zealand. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Shibuya 2-9-11, Aoyama City Bldg. B1F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Beacon (Steak house). 6418-0077
This swank dining spot from chef David Chiddo (Cicada, TY Harbor) bills itself as an "urban chop house" - basically a steak house, but with more seafood choices. The kitchen uses only top-class ingredients - long-grain-fed Angus beef, wild Aussie jumbo prawns, organic Scottish salmon - and the menu offers good value for money (budget around Y8500 for dinner and drinks). The wine list focuses on smaller New World vineyards, with some twenty choices by the glass.
Shibuya 1-2-5. Open 11:30am-3, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
The front bar area of the popular Aoyama steak house is a worthwhile destination in its own right, with excellent original cocktails, a good wine list with many choices by the glass, a casual food menu and outdoor seating on the patio if you're so inclined.
Shibuya 1-2-5. Open 11:30am-3, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
This tomato-centric Italian restaurant/cafe offers full-course dinners from Y3500, plus a la carte tomato salads, pastas and grilled meats. More than twenty different tomato varieties are featured, and various tomato juices are sold by the bottle. Tomato-based desserts are available during teatime.
Shibuya 2-2-2, Aoyama Luka Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 2:30-5, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Charcoal-grilled meaty snacks and good-value wine by the glass are the draw at this casual late-night bar. There's a selection of around ten decently drinkable wines from France, Italy and the New World for just Y500 a glass, along with a big selection by the bottle. The chalkboard menus list plenty of daily specials, along with simple vegetable dishes and grilled lamb, chicken, pork and beef.
A casual cafe where you can drop in anytime for a drink, a sandwich, or a full-course meal. The menu is California-style French, with both European and Asian touches. There's also a well-thought-out selection of wines at good prices.
Jingumae 5-53-67. Open 11:30am-10pm (LO; 7pm Sundays) daily.
International cuisine and drinks at this sprawling, tourist-friendly restaurant and cafe-bar.
Jingumae 5-47-6. Open 11:30am-11pm daily.
Good Hungarian pastries at this Old World-style cafe; the main branch opened in Budapest in 1858.
Jingumae 5-51-6, Terra Asios Aoyama 1F. Open 11am-8pm daily.
Benoit (Mediterranean). 5468-0881
From French celeb chef Alain Ducasse, a Mediterranean restaurant covering the cuisines of Italy, Spain, North Africa and Greece. The dining room is comfortable and attractively laid out, with nice views of Aoyama-dori, Shibuya and Shinjuku. Service is professional without being stiff. The wine list has some nice choices for under Y9000, and wine by the glass is fairly reasonable. Prix-fixe dinners from Y8,000, lunches from Y4500.
Farm-fresh fruits and vegetables are on sale at the popular farmers market that pops up every weekend in front of UN University (across the street from Aoyama Gakuin). Besides the dozens of stalls there are also several food trucks selling coffee, curries, salads and other quick snacks. The hours are usually 10am-4pm, but they stay open until 8pm on the third Saturday of every month.
Jingumae 5-53-70. Open 10am-4pm (weekends only).
Darie (Romanian). 3797-7374
Authentic and homey Eastern European cooking from Tokyo's very first Romanian restaurant, which was located in Ginza for 32 years before moving to Aoyama. The brightly colored basement dining room is casual with an Old-World stylishness, and service is cordial and professional, with detailed explanations of the various dishes as they're being served. Authentic and homey Eastern European cooking from Tokyo's very first Romanian restaurant, which was located in Ginza for 32 years before moving to Aoyama. The brightly colored basement dining room is casual with an Old-World stylishness, and service is cordial and professional, with detailed explanations of the various dishes as they're being served.
Prix-fixe lunches range from Y1600-3500, with a smaller Y1200 option on weekdays only. The mid-priced "osusume lunch" (Y2600) starts with traditional fish and vegetable pastes served with bread. Ingredients vary seasonally - we had a smoky grilled eggplant paste and a salmon-egg paste, which made very appetizing starters. The main course included a few different dishes, the high point for us being the mititei, a sausage-like, charcoal-grilled patty of lamb, beef and various spices. There was also a credible cabbage roll stuffed with beef and pork; roast potatoes; and a portion of unseasoned polenta to which we were instructed to add salt and pepper to taste.
Lunch also included a green-bean soup with sour cream and dill, and papanasi, a memorable dessert of fluffy hot pastry with cottage cheese, cassis and sour cream. All these dishes and many more are served a la carte in the evening, or you can splurge on one of the prix-fixe menus, priced from Y3800-6000. Romanian and Hungarian wines mostly run from Y3500-6000/bottle, while the house wine is Y2800/bottle or Y500/glass. [Show more] [Show less] Kita-Aoyama 3-13-1, KIta-Aoyama Sekine Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
This tomato-centric Italian restaurant/cafe offers full-course dinners from Y4000-7000. The buffet lunch (Y2500; Y3000 on weekends) includes a three-juice tasting flight, a choice of pasta, dessert, beverage, and a mid-sized buffet full of vegetable-based dishes like stuffed cabbage, carrot salad and stewed eggplant. More than twenty different tomato varieties are featured, and various tomato juices are sold by the bottle.
Kita-Aoyama 3-15-5, Portofino B1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 2:30-5, 5-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Tasty, sometimes unusual pizzas and well-constructed pastas at this budget Italian cafe chain.
Minami-Aoyama 5-10-1. Open 11:30am-11pm daily.
If you're in the mood for a luxurious dessert, this gorgeously decorated basement cafe serves "haute couture parfaits" from fresh seasonal fruit (Y1400-) and fruit teas (Y950-). Upstairs is Comme Ca Cafe, the very artistic cake shop on the first floor. Open from noon on weekends.
Minami-Aoyama 5-10-19, Masahiro Aoyama Bldg B1F. Open 2-10pm (LO) daily.
Hawaiian-style burgers and deli sandwiches, plus Kona microbrew beers from Hawaii.
Minami-Aoyama 5-10-21. (on the corner of Kotto-dori and Aoyama-dori, across from Max Mara) Open 11:30am-10pm (LO) daily.
Gourmet burgers served with organic vegetables and fresh smoothies. Bacon cheeseburgers are Y590; other toppings include pureed edamame beans and avocado-wasabi.
Minami-Aoyama 5-11-2. Open 7am-11pm daily.
Inexpensive bakery and deli items and salads from the famous no-brand design store Mujirushi.
Chef Kenji Sugawara was one of Japan's pioneers in the art of California cuisine, and his "Tokyo international" style is unique and exciting. Menu descriptions include plenty of exotic Asian ingredients and spices, but they're handled delicately, adding subtle flavors that are skillfully balanced. The glassed-in open kitchen adds some energy and liveliness to the cozy dining room, which seats just 14. The wine list is small but diverse and reasonably priced; lunch is priced from Y1200, and the prix-fixe dinner menu is Y5800.
Minami-Aoyama 5-12-6, Dai-ni Wada Bldg B1F. Open noon-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
This elegant, very relaxed bar features gigantic fishtanks filled with exotic tropical fish from Okinawa and environs. The menu includes tasty original cocktails and light food items. There's a Y700 per person table charge.
L'As (French). 3406-0880
Modern French cuisine from Chef Daisuke Kaneko, a veteran of Alain Senderens in Paris and La Becasse in Osaka. The seven-course prix-fixe dinner or weekend lunch, the only menu choice, is just Y5250. Weekend lunch is served noon-1pm (last order).
Minami-Aoyama 5-16-5. Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO). Closed Tues, some Wed.
Good, modern French cuisine and excellent service. Prix-fixes lunches from Y1750, dinners from Y3800, and wines (mostly French) from Y2800 per bottle.
Minami-Aoyama 5-4-30, Casa Serena 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm (LO) daily.
The Nezu Museum's cafe looks out onto a beautiful wooded garden - a lovely, serene setting for a cup of coffee or an afternoon snack. The menu offers coffee, matcha latte and desserts as well as light meals - pastas, sandwiches, meat pies and salad Nicoise.
Lauburu is dedicated to the art of serious eating - specifically, the serious consumption of pork. Billed as a French/Basque country-style bistro, the food here is prepared simply - no rich, complicated sauces or sculptural statements on the plate, just good honest country cooking. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Minami-Aoyama 6-8-18. Open 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Fancy fresh-fruit martinis are all the rage here, and owner Tomoyuki Kitazoe makes his own herbal and fruit syrups to use in them. The bar itself, located at the Nishi-Azabu end of Kotto-dori, is quite stylish and features an outdoor terrace area.
Minami-Aoyama 7-13-13, Aoyama Jin & IT Bldg 3F. Open 6pm-midnight daily.
East of Kotto-dori
This lively basement restaurant offers a great selection of wines from around the world at close to wine-shop prices. In fact a small retail wine shop is set up at the entrance, stocking a lot of nice New World and European choices in the Y2000-3000 range. Just pick up a bottle that looks appealing and bring it back to your table; the corkage charge is only Y600. Staff are ready to offer advice if you ask. This lively basement restaurant offers a great selection of wines from around the world at close to wine-shop prices. In fact a small retail wine shop is set up at the entrance, stocking a lot of nice New World and European choices in the Y2000-3000 range. Just pick up a bottle that looks appealing and bring it back to your table; the corkage charge is only Y600. Staff are ready to offer advice if you ask.
The wine-friendly food menu - cheeses, small-plate tapas dishes, and grilled meats and vegetables - is also quite reasonable. We enjoyed some well-prepared charcoal-grilled lamb, zucchini and asparagus, and a tasty shrimp ajillo among other things, and while a couple of the meat dishes were on the chewy side, the flavors were consistently pleasing.
Some seating is at big group tables, which can get crowded, so it's worthwhile to reserve a few days in advance to get counter seating or a private table. Budget around Y3500-4500 for dinner, which will include a far better grade of wine than is usual at this price level. [Show more] [Show less] Kita-Aoyama 3-10-6, Aoyama Pax Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30pm-midnight (LO) daily.
The former chef from the New York Grill (Park Hyatt) has teamed up with veterans from the Oak Door (Grand Hyatt) to create a glitzy new dining destination in central Aoyama. This international-style grill offers excellent fish- and beef-centered prix-fixe dinners (Y6500 and Y8500 respectively), with full-course lunches ranging from Y1750 to Y2950 (+10%sc). The spacious dining room has an open kitchen and comfortable booths looking out over the Aoyama-dori fashion parade; there's also terrace seating in the bar area. The walk-in wine cellar has some 1800 bottles to choose from.
Attached to the Two Rooms Grill, the bar and lounge area offers cocktails and a wide choice of wines from around the world in a lovely setting, with a big outdoor terrace looking out over Harajuku and points north. 10% service charge, but no table charge.
Good, basic Vietnamese fare in the basement of an old office building. The lunch menu, served until 5pm, is pretty good for the price, with five lunch sets averaging around Y1000. Budget around Y4000 in the evening.
Minami-Aoyama 5-7-17, Ohara Kaikan B1F. Open 11am-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Critically acclaimed curries in a pleasant little shop located on the little street parallel to Kotto-dori. The food is authentic and good, and Ghungroo even caters events at the Indian Embassy.
Minami-Aoyama 5-9-6. Open 11:30am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
All kinds of sardine dishes, plus a number of beef-tongue items (perhaps for nutritional balance). Seating is a bit cramped, and customers are packed in like, um, fish in a can. (The main, more spacious, branch is in Higashi-Ginza near Tsukiji Fish Market.)
Minami-Aoyama 5-9-9. Open 5-11:30pm (LO) daily.
Organic coffee and cakes, sandwiches and soups; everything is vegetarian/vegan (so don't expect any latte in your cafe). From the owners of the popular Cafe 8 vegan hotspot.
Minami-Aoyama 5-5-21. Open 8:30am-10:30pm daily.
A lot of upscale Aoyama shops seem to have an obligatory cafe area tucked into a corner somewhere, but the combination works especially well at this Copenhagen-based designer flower shop. While the food and drink aren't so very different from a dozen other area cafes, the lovely, plant-filled setting and the lively atmosphere set it apart. A lot of upscale Aoyama shops seem to have an obligatory cafe area tucked into a corner somewhere, but the combination works especially well at this Copenhagen-based designer flower shop. While the food and drink aren't so very different from a dozen other area cafes, the lovely, plant-filled setting and the lively atmosphere set it apart.
Lunch is served from 10am-3pm, with choices of open-faced Danish smorrebrod and panini sandwiches, big organic salads and fresh fruit juices. A set lunch with a couple of sandwiches, soup, salad and coffee or tea runs around Y1500.
After 3pm is teatime, with a nice selection of freshly made muffins and pastries to accompany your beverage. Tucked away on a quiet side street behind Aoyama-dori, Nomu Cafe is a pleasant spot for an afternoon break when you're in the area. [Show more] [Show less] Minami-Aoyama 5-7-2. Open 10am-8pm daily.
The original Breadworks is in Tennoz Isle next to TY Harbor Brewery; this new branch is attached to TY's sister restaurant Cicada, and offers a similarly inspiring selection of pastries and savory breads and rolls.
Minami-Aoyama 5-7-28. Open 8am-9pm daily.
Cicada (Mediterranean). 6434-1255
First-rate Mediterranean cuisine from Chef David Chiddo and the TY Harbor group (Beacon, Ivy Place). Now located in the heart of Aoyama (after a decade in Hiroo), the spacious quarters are evocative of a luxury tropical resort, with comfortable terrace seating, pools of water and an appealing open-air bar. The complex also houses a branch of TY Harbor's excellent bakery, Breadworks, and a casual cafe space called Crisscross. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
A casual cafe attached to the popular Mediterranean restaurant Cicada; there's pleasant outdoor seating in the front courtyard when the weather permits.
Minami-Aoyama 5-7-28. Open 9am-10pm (LO) daily.
This cute and very spacious cafe has big front windows looking out onto the fashion-shopping alley next to Kotto-dori. The menu offers sandwiches, galettes and assorted pastries for mid-afternoon snacking, as well as a diverse cocktail selection for later in the day.
Minami-Aoyama 5-8-1. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Those with a fondness for cartoon-character dolls and action figures will find a kindred spirit in Yoshitomo Nara, whose paintings and sculptures of devilish children are as disconcerting as they are cute. A joint project with the Graf design firm, A to Z Cafe, with its original artwork, mismatched furniture, and liberal use of worn wood and corrugated iron, is a cool place to spend the afternoon. Those with a fondness for cartoon-character dolls and action figures will find a kindred spirit in Yoshitomo Nara, whose paintings and sculptures of devilish children are as disconcerting as they are cute.
A joint project with the Graf design firm, A to Z Cafe, with its original artwork, mismatched furniture, and liberal use of worn wood and corrugated iron, is a cool place to spend the afternoon. Nara's conceptual home on the range provides an interesting contrast to the fifth-floor view of the teeming metropolis outside.
The cafe offers daily lunch specials starting at Y800, in addition to the extensive menu of wafu-inflected dishes ranging in price from Y315-1000. Mentaiko nori toast makes an unusual salty snack; deep-fried baby squid and crispy rice cakes are almost too cute to eat.
Choose from a selection of coffee drinks or Chinese and Japanese teas to go with tempting desserts like kabocha and coconut cake. Cocktails, beer, shochu, and champagne are also available if you fancy something stronger. Drop in for one of the free artist lectures or just sit around and enjoy the atmosphere: the pretty people drift in and out as softly lilting ambient music floats in the air. [Show more] [Show less] A relaxing, quiet space inside a museum devoted to the whimsical works of sculptor Taro Okamoto.
Minami-Aoyama 6-1-19. Open 11am-7pm. Closed Tuesdays.
The excellent French kitchen attached to the Blue Note jazz club. Full-course dinners from Y5000 upstairs; tapas and lighter snacks down on the first floor. (If you're going to a show at the club, you can coordinate your dinner here with starting time for the performance.)
Minami-Aoyama 6-3-16. Open 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Minami-Aoyama 6-3-16. Open 5:30pm-1am daily.
This branch of the ubiquitous budget Thai chain has a larger-than-average menu, good food and take-out service. The decor is also a cut above the norm.
Minami-Aoyama 5-1-25, Kitamura Bldg B1F. (on Aoyama-dori a few doors down from Andersen) Open 11am-9pm (lunch to 2) daily.
Danish-style stews and other main courses in the restaurant area above the bread shop, and European-style breakfast in the morning. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Minami-Aoyama 5-1-26. Open 8am-9pm (LO) daily.
This particular branch is one of Tokyo's better bakeries, with many varieties of fresh bread and pastries, baked on the premises. They also sell premade sandwiches to go.
Minami-Aoyama 5-1-26. Open 7am-9pm daily.
Excellent made-to-order sandwiches and salads in the basement deli area underneath the bread store.
Minami-Aoyama 5-1-26. Open 9am-9pm daily.
Spectacular chicken wings and other chicken specialties, and a tasteful, traditional Japanese interior.
Late-night pastas at budget prices.
Rin (Japanese regional). 6418-7022
Located upstairs from an excellent Japanese crafts store, by day this shop is a casual cafe, while at night they specialize in Japanese regional cuisines, with a good selection of small-brewery sake. Budget around Y4500 at dinnertime including Y500 table charge.
Kita-Aoyama 3-6-26. Open 11am-11:30pm daily.
Kita-Aoyama 3-6-26, SI Bldg B1F. Open 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
The basement of Crayon House has an organic vegetable shop and two separate natural-food restaurants: "Hiroba", serving Japanese food, and "Home", with French cuisine. "Hiroba" offers an interesting buffet lunch for Y1,200.
The menu here features pastas, deli items, and a couple dozen wines by the glass. Free wi-fi access.
Kita-Aoyama 3-9-2, Aqua 1F. Open 11am-10pm daily.
East of Omotesando
If the walls of Radio Bar could talk, they'd sing like Chet Baker and laugh like Marlene Dietrich. The indigo interior combines elements of traditional Japanese design with Art Deco ornamentation, and exudes an air of Hollywood in the fifties. The space is seductively dim, conducive to tete-a-tetes and true confessions. If the walls of Radio Bar could talk, they'd sing like Chet Baker and laugh like Marlene Dietrich. The indigo interior combines elements of traditional Japanese design with Art Deco ornamentation, and exudes an air of Hollywood in the fifties. The space is seductively dim, conducive to tete-a-tetes and true confessions.
Radio Bar serves some of the most elegant cocktails in town, expertly mixed by Koji Ozaki and his team of white-tuxedo-attired bartenders. The focus is on the classics, served in antique glassware. Ozaki's martini is crisp and succinct, with a note of vermouth hovering above the gin. The dry Manhattan is a grown-up affair - dark, smooth and not in the least bit cloying.
Original cocktails include the Dean Martin, an unlikely but delicious blend of Campari and Jack Daniels, and the Greta Garbo, a dry martini with a sherry kick. Prices range from Y1,300 to Y2,000, but note that there's a seating charge of Y1,000 per person. [Show more] [Show less] Minami-Aoyama 3-10-34. Open 6pm-1am. Closed Sundays, Mondays.
Excellent charcoal-grilled yakitori and other chicken dishes are the specialty at this branch of the Aburiya Fudo group of restaurants.
Living up to its name, this really is a box - it looks like a shipping container, with rather minimalist decor and furnishings, and standing areas inside and outside. They serve four different craft beers fresh from Brimmer Brewery in Kanagawa Prefecture - golden ale, pale ale, porter and ESB the last time we dropped by - for Y500 a glass. There's no food, but you can find good take-out fried chicken at the shipping container next door. Open from noon on weekends.
Minami-Aoyama 3-8-34. Open 4-11pm daily.
A branch of the famous Hakata ramen chain, featuring thin, slightly chewy noodles in a pork-based broth ("red" or "white"), with or without extra chashu. You can add your own freshly grated garlic.
Minami-Aoyama 3-8-37, Dai-ni Miyachu Bldg B1F. Open 11am-midnight (Fri, Sat -1am; Sun -10pm) daily.
Authentic Hong Kong-style desserts straight from the source, plus plenty of good dim sum, noodle dishes and other a la carte items at this very popular shop.
Kita-Aoyama 3-5-14. Open 11am-10pm daily.
Full-course lunches are Y1500-1800. In the evenings you can have anything from a clubhouse sandwich to a full-course meal. Dinner main courses are in the Y2000-2500 range.
Kita-Aoyama 3-5-15. Open 11:30am-10:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays, some Sun.
Live music, dancing, and a good deal of drinking. Open Mon-Tue 6:30-midnight (no music); Wed-Thu 6:30-1am; Fri-Sat 6:30-2am.
Kita-Aoyama 3-5-2. Open 7pm-1am. Closed Sundays, Mondays.
Brazilian-style all-you-can-eat churrasco grilled beef and other meats, along with one of Tokyo's best salad bars. Dinner is Y4500, weekday lunch Y3000.
Jingumae 4-3-2, Tokyu Reit Omotesando Square B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
Sweet and savory Breton-style crepes, with hard cider to wash them down, in a pleasantly decorated open-air cafe.
Jingumae 3-5-4. Open 11:30am-11pm (LO, 10pm Sun) daily.
Tokyo's second-most-famous tonkatsu restaurant, located in an unusually decorated former bathhouse. In addition to pork cutlets there's also a full menu of set meals and seasonal a la carte items.
Jingumae 4-8-5. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Far off the beaten path, on a backstreet between Omotesando and Gaienmae, Nalu Cafe packs a little something for everyone into a tiny space. It's a smart cafe/art gallery that serves take-out during lunchtime, located above a groovy hair salon in the basement. You could, theoretically, pop in for a drink or a slice of cake while you're waiting for your perm to set downstairs. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Jingumae 4-9-2. Open 11am-11pm daily.
This stylish little izakaya offers excellent food, a good sake selection, and an entire menu page devoted to different varieties of salt - 12 of them in all. Charcoal-grilled seafood and vegetables are among the food highlights. Budget around Y2500 without drinks.
[Go to branch review]
