Ichigaya / Ushigome-Kagurazaka
Tasty, sometimes unusual pizzas and well-constructed pastas at this budget Italian cafe chain. Open all afternoon.
Gobancho 2. Open 7am-11:30pm (Sat, Sun 11am-) daily.
Healthy Kan (Ichigaya - Japanese/health food). 3263-4023
A tasty assortment of healthy Japanese dishes and excellent Belgian beer.
Rokubancho 4, Asahi Rokubancho Mansion 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 4:30-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Pauke (Ichigaya - German). 3264-7890
Traditional, meaty German fare along with live music.
Yonbancho 4-8, B1F. Open 5pm-2am (LO 1:30). Closed Sundays and holidays.
Excellent-quality modern French cuisine at this elegant bistrot-restaurant. Chef Olivier was a veteran of La Tour d'Argent in Paris and the Cordon Bleu cooking school in Tokyo before opening his namesake restaurant. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5800 and Y8000 (or order a la carte), and the wine list offers some reasonably priced options under Y6000. Budget around Y10,000-12,000 with drinks. Lunches start at Y1575; no lunch on Saturday.
Kudan-Minami 4-1-10. Open 11:30am-2, 6:30-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Miyarabi (Ichigaya - Okinawan). 3261-3453
A branch of the excellent Miyarabi in Ikebukuro.
Kudan-Minami 3-4-3. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO). Closed weekends.
This long-established izakaya mini-chain serves excellent Kyushu cuisine and a good assortment of sake and shochu from the southern island. Budget around Y4000-5000 for dinner with drinks. No lunch on weekends. Open until 1:30am on Friday nights.
[Go to branch review] Ichigaya Hachimancho 1, Shintaka Bldg B1F. Open 11am-2, 5-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Cassine (Ichigaya - French). 3268-3708
The food is rather mainstream French Japanese, but the friendly service sets them apart. Prix-fixe dinner menus are Y3500 and Y5000.
Ichigaya Sanaicho 21, Ichigaya Sanaizaka Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9pm (LO). Closed weekends.
Kururi (Ichigaya - Ramen). 3269-0801
Kururi's top-level miso ramen relies on a secret combination of different miso pastes for a strong impact.
Ichigaya Tamachi 3-2. Open 11am-9pm daily.
A tiny neighborhood hideaway with well-prepared but very conservative and predictable French food. Dinner is Y3,900 or Y5,900, and the wine list starts at Y5,000, with some half-bottles available. Ask them for directions -- it's rather hard to find the first time.
Nandocho 22. (around the corner from Carmine, just off Chuo-dori) Open noon-1:30, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Amoroso (Ushigome-Kagurazaka - Italian). 5261-2550
Excellent Italian cuisine in an intimate counter setting - the chef will plan a menu for you, matching each course with wines by the glass. Budget around Y10,000 for dinner, Y1500-3000 for prix-fixe lunch.
Nakamichi 22. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm. Closed Tuesdays.
Bave (Ushigome-Kagurazaka - French). 3269-2231
Nandocho 15-9. (around the corner from Carmine, just off Chuo-dori) Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Carmine (Ushigome-Kagurazaka - Italian). 3260-5066
The home base and launching pad of one of Tokyo's most famous Italian chefs.
Saikumachi 1-19. (on Ushigome Chuo-dori, just south of Okubo-dori) Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Gus (Ushigome-Kagurazaka - French). 3268-7157
Satisfying home-style French cooking at terrific prices. The menu sticks to hearty classics such as buttery pork rillets with corchicons pickles, escargots sizzling in garlic butter and roast lamb in red wine sauce. Satisfying home-style French cooking at terrific prices. The menu sticks to hearty classics such as buttery pork rillets with corchicons pickles, escargots sizzling in garlic butter and roast lamb in red wine sauce.
You can't go wrong with the confit de canard, a perennial favorite in Tokyo bistros. Here, it's expertly prepared, with crispy skin and tender, juicy meat. There's also a nice selection of reasonable wines by the bottle. A full-course dinner with drinks will only set you back around Y4500-5000. [Show more] [Show less] Yaraicho 82. Open 11:30am-1:30, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Kagurazaka-dori (north to south)
This casual neighborhood spot serves up gourmet burgers, upscale diner fare and assorted vodka cocktails. They bill themselves a New York-style bar-restaurant, and accordingly the menu features tasty Brooklyn Lager on tap, the ubiquitous NY cheesecake, and a credible rendition of a chocolate egg cream - a soda-fountain favorite at New York diners. This casual neighborhood spot serves up gourmet burgers, upscale diner fare and assorted vodka cocktails. They bill themselves a New York-style bar-restaurant, and accordingly the menu features tasty Brooklyn Lager on tap, the ubiquitous NY cheesecake, and a credible rendition of a chocolate egg cream - a soda-fountain favorite at New York diners.
At lunchtime Y1000 will get you a Martiniburger with one side dish. The burger is a thick, juicy 200-gram all-beef patty, grilled to a nice medium rare. It's served on an English muffin with just a simple tomato slice and choice of fancy dressings like blue cheese or mustard aoli. (Extra toppings like bacon and guacamole can also be added on.) Among the options for side orders are herb-roasted potatoes; a tangy macaroni and cheese bowl; or a substantial portion of rather creamy creamed spinach.
At night the menu expands to offer daily specials from the grill ("meat and poultry prepared in American regional styles") and comfort food like chili or meatloaf in mushroom gravy. Vodka cocktails are Y700 each; among them are Cosmopolitans and exotic creations like chocolate- and lemon-lime-flavored martinis. The dining room is simple but stylish - and bright and cheerful at lunchtime - with a six-stool bar area in back and a good selection of blues and jazz on the speakers.
On Saturdays and Sundays lunch service runs until 3pm (LO). Take-out is available every day. [Show more] [Show less] Nakazatocho 31. Open 11am-10pm (LO; 9pm Sun). Closed Mondays.
Ringer Hut (Kagurazaka - Japanese regional). 3260-2978
This budget chain serves two kinds of Nagasaki-style noodles - sara-udon (crisp fried ramen noodles topped with vegetables, pork and seafood in a thick sauce), and Nagasaki champon (similar to the above but in a pork-based soup). Side dishes include gyoza dumplings (regular, cheese, and mentaiko-cheese) and fried rice.
Artdish (Kagurazaka - Cafe). 3269-7289
Artistic food and tasty paintings at this combination art gallery and cafe.
Yaraicho 107. Open noon-10pm. Closed Mondays.
Brussels (Kagurazaka - Belgian rest/beer bar). 3235-1890
A relaxed after-work place serving lots of Belgian beers and good light food, including tasty pita sandwiches.
Yaraicho 75. Open 5:30-2am, Sat. 5:30-11pm. Closed Sundays.
Stefano (Kagurazaka - Italian). 5228-7515
Creative Italian cooking from talented young chef Stefano Fastro, a veteran of the Carmine restaurant group. The menu focuses on the food of the Veneto region, inland from Venice. The five-course prix-fixe dinner is Y6000, but a la carte offers a wider choice; lunch starts at Y1200.
Kagurazaka 6-47, Terui Bldg. 1F. (on Kagurazaka-dori, about 1 min. from Kagurazaka station) Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-11pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Seigetsu (Kagurazaka - Izakaya). 3269-4320
Unlike many sake-connoisseur pubs, the food here stands on its own, and would make Seigetsu worth a visit even if they only served tea. The charcoal-grilled chicken is especially outstanding, and the various Korean-influenced dishes are worth a try. The staff is friendly and knowledgeable, with specially designated shochu consultants available should you need their services. The atmosphere is relaxed and cozy. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Kagurazaka 6-77-1. Open 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Kado (Kagurazaka - Japanese). 3268-2410
The hostess at Kado greets customers with a polite, "Douzo, agate kudasai." As when visiting any Japanese home, guests are requested to leave their shoes in the genkan. Located in a Showa-era house built in 1950 near Kagurazaka's Akagi Shrine, this quaint cafe and restaurant offers a glimpse of what life was like in pre-high rise Tokyo. The hostess at Kado greets customers with a polite, "Douzo, agate kudasai." As when visiting any Japanese home, guests are requested to leave their shoes in the genkan. Located in a Showa-era house built in 1950 near Kagurazaka's Akagi Shrine, this quaint cafe and restaurant offers a glimpse of what life was like in pre-high rise Tokyo.
The main dining area is a tatami room that opens onto a narrow veranda with just enough space to accommodate four very slim people. Table seating with sofas and chairs can be found in the small back room.
The food, with its emphasis on fresh ingredients, is simple but not without little surprises. Densely satisfying taro root croquettes open to reveal a single golden ginko nut nestled in the center. Wooden ear mushrooms peek out of the fluffy omu-rice. The lunch sets are available from 11:30-2:30 for about Y1000. Go for an early lunch to beat the crowds, or stop in during cafe time (from 2:30-5pm) for a coffee or a nice cup of Chinese or Japanese tea. Dinner is served from 5-11pm. [Show more] [Show less] Akagi-Motomachi 1-32. Open 11:30am-11pm daily.
The specialties here are charcoal-grilled fish and seafood on skewers, plus deep-fried fish and vegetables on skewers. There's a big open kitchen and counter area, plus high tables with stools. Budget around Y2800 for food and some drinks.
This tiny wine bar (with just fifteen seats) offers inexpensive food and a good selection of wines, from Y490 per glass or Y2400 per bottle. Cash only.
[Go to branch review] Iwatocho 19. Open 5:30pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Delicious Breton-style crepes, both sweet and savory, along with hard cider make this a welcome addition to Tokyo's culinary landscape.
Kagurazaka 4-2. Open 11:30am-10:30pm. Closed Mondays.
Convivial bonhomie beams from the second-story window of this lively tapas bar in Kagurazaka. Inside, ceramic plates painted in sunny Andalucian colors hang above the brick-lined counter. Bottles of wine, conveniently marked with prices and descriptions, line the tall wooden shelves at the far end of the room. Floor-to-ceiling windows make the space seem bigger than it is - the bar seats a scant twenty-four - and create an atmosphere that feels both intimate and open. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Gojuban (Kagurazaka - Retail). 3260-0066
Famous throughout Japan for their manju (Chinese steamed buns), available in 15 varieties. Take-out service available 10am-11pm.
Kagurazaka 3-2. Open 9:30am-11pm (LO) daily.
Paul (Kagurazaka - Bakery). 6280-7723
Good pastries and sandwiches, to eat in or take out, at this French-based bakery-cafe.
Kagurazaka 5-1-4, Kagurazaka Terrace 1F. Open 10am-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Tribes (Kagurazaka - African). 3235-9966
An African-themed restaurant with Afro-French fusion dishes and a selection of exotic meats. The wines are mostly from South Africa, and a full-course dinner for two plus a bottle of wine runs about Y10,000. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
El Pulpo (Kagurazaka - Spanish). 3269-6088
Tapas bars and restaurants are over Tokyo, but El Pulpo may be the only place that bills itself as a "marisqueria" - a Spanish restaurant specializing in seafood. The food here is fantastic, using fresh seafood that's delivered directly from Odawara in Kanagawa Prefecture. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Kagurazaka 4-3, Miyazaki Bldg 1F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
The charming, ramshackle old building is a refurbished merchant's shop filled with artwork, random bric-a-brac and a couple of resident cats. They serve tea and home-made manju (sweet bean-jam buns) in various flavors; manju are also available to take away (Y140 each).
Kagurazaka 5-20. Open noon-9pm. Closed Wednesdays.
Saryo (Kagurazaka - Cafe). 3266-0880
Occupying an old, traditional-style house, this cute cafe serves home-made pastries, soy-milk desserts and many kinds of tea - Chinese, Japanese and herbal. There's outdoor seating on the big terrace in front as well as a very spacious interior. Lunch is served 11:30am-1:30pm.
Kagurazaka 5-9. Open 11:30am-11pm daily.
Bitter (Kagurazaka - Belgian rest/beer bar). 5261-3087
Often hidden backstreet bars like this - quiet, sophisticated, with tasteful but understated decor - specialize in expensive Scotch whisky or cocktails, so it's nice to find a place like this with a serious Belgian beer menu. Food includes freshly shaved Parmesan, pork rillettes and shepherd's pie, and prices are a bit higher than average (around Y1200-1500 for a typical bottle of Belgian). Located upstairs in a residential-looking building, the bar can be very hard to find, but that's part of its charm.
Tsukudocho 1-14, Sun Heights Sakatabashi 203. (walk up Kagurazaka-dori and turn right at Gojuban Chinese steamed bun shop, it's on the right side after about 4 min.) Open 5pm-2am. Closed weekends.
A tapas bar with Spanish wines.
Kagurazaka 3-1. Open 5:30pm-4am. Closed Sundays.
A nice bistro-style French place with a pleasant atmosphere.
Kagurazaka 3-1. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Sorriso (Iidabashi - Italian). 3235-4477
Consistently high-quality Italian food (starting with their excellent bread) in a bright, airy setting.
Kagurazaka 3-1-15. Open 11:30am-2pm, 6-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Tenko (Iidabashi - Tempura). 3269-1414
Occupying a former geisha house in a Kagurazaka back street, Tenko has a beautiful traditional setting and a serene atmosphere. The tempura is exquisite - succulent morsels of seasonal seafood and vegetables covered in a light, almost greaseless coating and paired with plain sea salt for dipping. Prix-fixe menus are Y17,000-21,000 for dinner and Y2500-5000 for lunch.
Kagurazaka 3-1. Open 11:30am-2, 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
A wine bar in the evening, a soba restaurant in the daytime. They have over 70 very affordable wines by the bottle or glass, plus decent food. Counter seating only - the restaurant is only two meters wide, so it's best for groups of 1-3 people. Cash only.
Kagurazaka 1-14. (right from exit B4a Iidabashi sta.) Open 6:30pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Iidabashi
Cafes with scenic settings are a rarity in Tokyo, so this lovely spot looking out over the rowboats on the moat is worth a stop if you're in the neighborhood. After 5pm it's a proper restaurant, with surprisingly good upper-level Italian fare, including a nice assortment of small appetizers and lots of good-value wines. Budget around Y6000-9000 for dinner. There's also a separate self-service section of the cafe next to the boat docks; they're open for coffee a little later in the evening.
Kagurazaka 1-9. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Shima (Iidabashi - Okinawan). 3261-0206
A small, down-to-earth place with authentic food and cheap prices. The menu features nice, ungreasy stir-fried champuru dishes, several varieties of Okinawan soba and assorted snacks to go with your awamori. Seating is on rickety stools at tiny tables.
Fujimi 2-4-7. (To get there, exit Iidabashi station's west exit and turn left, walk past the police box and Denny's, turn left on the corner just past Denny's, and walk 50 meters, just past the next side street.) Open 11:30am-1:40, 5-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Grain (Iidabashi - French). 5275-9494
(Formerly Vent d'Afric) The young owner/chef here has created an original menu that includes such variations on old standards as a chicken-wing-and-escargot coq au vin and an excellent Calvados-flavored creme brulee. The results are consistently impressive. Dinners are Y2500 and Y4000, or you can have three appetizers plus dessert for Y1500.
Fujimi 2-6-9, Yuzankaku Bldg. 1F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10pm. Closed weekends.
The owner's mission is life is to bring affordable French country-style cooking to the Tokyo public, and the quality-to-price ratio here is fairly high, if you don't mind sitting at tiny coffeeshop tables.
Fujimi 2-3-1. Open 11:30-2, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Kudanshita
Bistro-style food from Petit Bedon chef Philippe Batton (including perfect duck confit and world-class roast potatoes), plus an eye-opening selection of wines from southern France, with many choices available by the glass. [See
FULL REVIEW.]
Kudan-Kita 1-10-2. Open 11:30am-3, 6-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Ikaruga (Kudanshita - Ramen). 3239-2622
One of the creamiest tonkotsu ramens in Tokyo.
Kudan-kita 1-9-12. Open 11am-4, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Suidobashi
Barco (Suidobashi - Mediterranean). 5805-3167
Produced by the Tokyo Dome Hotel, this inexpensive Spanish-Italian restaurant offers typical tapas dishes like shrimp in garlic oil, stewed tripe and chickpeas, plus paella, pastas, and heirloom pork dishes. Wines start at Y2625/bottle.
Koraku 1-3-61, Tokyo Dome City Meets Port 2F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
We certainly can't complain about a conveniently located indoor-outdoor cafe-bar that's open all afternoon and serves great food and drink. The menu offers simple but tasty dishes like duck confit and mussels steamed in white wine, along with freshly baked pizzas and wines by the glass, all at very reasonable prices. Our only worry is that they'll be too popular to get into.
Koraku 1-3-61, Tokyo Dome City Meets Port 3F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
En (Suidobashi - Japanese). 5842-3835
Calling En an izakaya doesn't quite do them justice - the food and drink are both top-notch, the decor elegant and modern. Most of the dining spaces take full advantage of the wrap-around glass walls, looking out over the Tokyo Dome complex and Korakuen. The food is original seasonal small-plate dishes using only the best ingredients; budget around Y7000 for dinner with drinks.
[Go to branch review] Sizzler (Suidobashi - American). 5840-7331
The well-stocked salad bar is the main draw here.
Koraku 1-3-61, Tokyo Dome Hotel 2F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Perched high above Tokyo Dome, the Artist's Bar offers great views of the Imperial Palace and northern Tokyo from the bar area. Drinks start at Y700, and there's live music every night (quiet jazz, acoustic bossa) at the adjacent Artist's Cafe.
Bodaiju (Suidobashi - Tonkatsu). 3818-1020
OK tonkatsu, fried shrimp, and "Western-style" beef dishes in an eccentric, oddly appealing junk-shop atmosphere.
Hongo 1-14-3. Open 11:30am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Tucked away in the rather institutional-looking basement of the Athenee Francaise, this branch of the French-based cafe serves a range of good, made-to-order French-style sandwiches.
Kanda Surugadai 2-11, Athenee Francais B1F. Open 11am-7:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Manten (Suidobashi - Curry). 3291-3274
This famous Japanese curry joint is known for their dirt-cheap prices and extremely unpretentious setting. The flagship tonkatsu curry is Y550, while wiener and croquette curries are Y500 each. If you're brave there's also a massive "everything" option that includes all of the above plus fried dumplings.
Kanda Jimbocho 1-54. Open 11am-8pm. Closed Sundays.
Frigo Est (Suidobashi - Belgian rest/beer bar). 3262-1138
A comfortable and spacious Belgian specialty bar with nearly 100 beers by the bottle that you can select and serve yourself from the big glass refrigerators. They also have unusual beers on draft (Witkap Pater) and a modest food menu.
A branch of Tokyo's best budget Taiwanese chain.
Nishi-Kanda 2-1-13 2F. (on Hakusan-dori, south of Suidobashi sta. east exit) Open 11:45am-2:30, 5-11pm (LO) daily.
Korakuen / Hongo
Yes, this is a theme restaurant based on a Tom Hanks movie, but the food's kind of interesting, and there's grilled fish and baby-back ribs in case you're not in the mood for shrimp. There's also an unusual cocktail list.
Kasuga 1-1-1, Tokyo Dome LaQua 1F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
A Finnish cartoon-themed bakery and cafe, with some Finnish beers and Scandinavian-style pastries on the menu.
Kasuga 1-1-1, Tokyo Dome LaQua 1F. Open 10am-11pm daily.
A very large branch of Seijo, with a full grocery selection, meats, fish and produce as well as the import goods they've become known for. Free delivery with orders over Y3000.
Kasuga 1-1-1, Tokyo Dome LaQua 1F. Open 10am-10pm daily.
News Deli (Korakuen - Sandwiches/deli). 5842-5577
Moderately priced deli-style items, both Japanese and Western, in a lively setting.
Kasuga 1-1-1, Tokyo Dome LaQua 2F. Open 10am-10pm (LO) daily.
Myun (Hongo - Vietnamese). 3815-1195
(Called "My Dung" in English). Popular, reasonably priced Vietnamese standards; budget around Y2500 at dinnertime.
Hongo 4-2-8, Flora Bldg 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
They really do serve some of the best gourmet burgers in Tokyo at this rustic little shop. The mozzarella mushroom burger (Y1200) is one of our faves. Sandwiches are no longer on the menu, but can be found across the street at sister shop Qino's (03-6231-5527).
Hongo 4-5-10. Open 11am-10pm (LO; Sun. 7pm) daily.
Kasuga / Hakusan
Nagano-style ramen is the specialty here, served in a triple-barreled soup flavored with pork, chicken and various fish.
Nishikata 1-15-6. Open 11am-1:30am. Closed Mondays.
Perched above an exit to Hakusan metro station, this charming neighborhood cafe seems to cultivate a deliberately bohemian atmosphere. Hey, is that a box of sweet potatoes plunked down right in the middle of the seating area? The food menu is surprisingly wide-ranging - pastas, pizzas, teppan-grilled meats and lots of vegetable dishes. Drinks include coffee, juices, cocktails, five kinds of shochu and Sankt Gallen beer.
Hakusan 5-33-1 2F. Open 11:30am-midnight daily.
Eigakan (Hakusan - Jazz kissaten). 3811-8932
This cozy cafe bar is furnished with European and Japanese antiques and heavy-duty lights used for shooting movies; the ambience seems almost like that of a private detective's office in a Raymond Chandler novel. The cafe's resident cat grooms himself to the rhythms of Thelonious Monk. This cozy cafe bar is furnished with European and Japanese antiques and heavy-duty lights used for shooting movies; the ambience seems almost like that of a private detective's office in a Raymond Chandler novel. The cafe's manager is also a director who makes documentary films. A big Eric Dolphy fan, he uses the sleeve from Dolphy's "Last Date" album as his menu cover. The cafe's resident cat grooms himself to the rhythms of Thelonious Monk.
Eigakan's coffee (Y500), which is carefully prepared using a siphon system, is quite extraordinary. They also serve premium shochu and malt whiskies (Y600-), and you can enjoy original-recipe pastas and stir-fried vegetables. One minute walk from exit A3 of Hakusan station. [Show more] [Show less] Hakusan 5-33-19. Open 3-11:30pm. Closed Sundays.
This fourth shop of celebrity ramen chef Takeda Keisuke serves a rather unique take on noodles - lobster tsukemen. Thick, flat, pan-fried noodles are accompanied by a thick, pork-based and lobster-enhanced dipping broth.
Hon-Komagome 1-1-14. Open 11am-3, 6-10pm daily.
Goenmon (Hakusan - Tofu). 3811-2015
Excellent tofu cuisine in a beautiful garden setting. They have a private teahouse which can be reserved if you call far enough in advance. Reservations absolutely necessary. Full-course lunch menu from Y2700, dinner from Y5500.
Hon-Komagome 1-1-26. Open noon-2, 5-10pm (8pm Sundays). Closed Sundays.
