The first thing you'll notice at Rock'anDo is the color scheme. Green is everywhere, from the signage to the little green army men on a shelf. This should clue you in - you'll be eating green ramen. Rock'anDo's signature dish uses a "superfood" called Euglenids, a kind of algae-like organism rich in vitamins A, C, and E. The first thing you'll notice at Rock'anDo is the color scheme. Green is everywhere, from the signage to the little green army men on a shelf. This should clue you in - you'll be eating green ramen. Rock'anDo's signature dish uses a "superfood" called Euglenids, a kind of algae-like organism rich in vitamins A, C, and E.
You should go for broke with the yuzu- and mitsuba-topped bowl of green noodles (yuzu mizuba green men ¥850). The mitsuba, known as Japanese parsley, gives even more vibrant green color to the bowl. The fresh zest of Japanese yuzu citrus has a fragrant quality that sits quite well with shio ramen. Wash it all down with a green-bottled Heineken. [Show more] [Show less] Bottled craft beers and Swedish-style calzones are served at this small neighborhood bar; you'll also find wine, steak tacos and quesadillas. Note that on some nights they don't open until 7:30pm or so.
Aona (Takadanobaba - Gyukatsu). 6908-9779
The beef cutlet here has a lovely, extra-crunchy coating, and it's accompanied by a well-constructed vegetable salad and a tasty, peppery soup. Condiments include artisanal rock salt and oil with red pepper, and for an extra ¥100 you can order a knob of fresh wasabi and a grinder. The beef cutlet here has a lovely, extra-crunchy coating, and it's accompanied by a well-constructed vegetable salad and a tasty, peppery soup. Condiments include artisanal rock salt and oil with red pepper, and for an extra ¥100 you can order a knob of fresh wasabi and a grinder.
The meat itself can be chewier than average, although the premium beef options (Angus beef and marbled Angus beef) may be more tender. The menchi katsu (deep-fried minced-beef patty) is another option. Set menus start at ¥1250. [Show more] [Show less] Flattoria (Takadanobaba - Italian). 3205-9182
Part of the Fealteria complex, this casual restaurant offers solid Italian fare, including pizzas, in an unpretentious, smoke-free dining room. Prix-fixe dinners are Y2100-5200. Weekday lunches run Y1000-3000, including several "salad lunches"; weekends are a bit fancier, from Y1500-3500.
Takadanobaba is considered a bit of a ramen battle zone. Through the years, many shops have opened and closed, and to have a successful shop in this part of Tokyo is considered a great feat. Yamaguchi is probably the most famous new shop in the area. Takadanobaba is considered a bit of a ramen battle zone. Through the years, many shops have opened and closed, and to have a successful shop in this part of Tokyo is considered a great feat. Yamaguchi is probably the most famous new shop in the area.
Yamaguchi's ramen is, apart from a single slice of chashu on top, an entirely pork-free bowl of ramen. But this is no ordinary chicken soup. The shoyu flavoring is intense at first, with a smooth aftertaste. Go for the bowl with an egg (¥880), as the shop uses only the finest chickens from Iwate Prefecture. Matched with aged soy sauce and noodles from Kyoto, this is one that has a lot of thought put into it.
For those who want a pork-free bowl, make sure you tell them so. A simple "buta nashi" will suffice, and you'll probably get an extra slice of their amazing chicken chashu instead of the pork. [Show more] [Show less] 
Garni (Wakamatsu-Kawada - Japanese). 6457-4145
Yakiton (charcoal-grilled pork on skewers) is the main dish here, but instead of a smoky izakaya the atmosphere is closer to a stylish wine bar, with a selection of wines by the glass (Y680-1000) to go with your skewers - a great combination.
La Boheme (Shinjuku Gyoen-mae - Italian). 5366-2242
This spacious multi-level branch of the budget Italian chain is open all afternoon, and convenient when you're visiting Shinjuku Gyoen.
Keawjai (Shinjuku - Thai). 3226-9991
Top-quality "Imperial" Thai cuisine, from a newish branch of this long-established Tokyo Thai restaurant. Budget around Y2500 for food at dinnertime.
Stylishly modern and surprisingly spacious, Meal Muji makes a pleasant retreat from the crowds of Shinjuku's shopping district. The decor is bright and cheerful, with ubiquitous sleek blond wood furnishings set off by clay-colored stucco walls and lots of greenery.
One of Tokyo's most reliable kushiage shops, Kushinobo offers creative skewers, a decent sake selection and good value for money. A ten-skewer set menu is ¥3240 at dinnertime, just one of many set-menu and a la carte options. The eight-skewer lunch set with soup and rice (¥1080) is a nice introduction - a recent seasonal selection featured salmon, green pepper stuffed with ground pork, prawn, chicken with celery and other delicacies, all served fresh and piping hot from the fryer. One of Tokyo's most reliable kushiage shops, Kushinobo offers creative skewers, a decent sake selection and good value for money. A ten-skewer set menu is ¥3240 at dinnertime, just one of many set-menu and a la carte options. The eight-skewer lunch set with soup and rice (¥1080) is a nice introduction - a recent seasonal selection featured salmon, green pepper stuffed with ground pork, prawn, chicken with celery and other delicacies, all served fresh and piping hot from the fryer.
This particular branch has all non-smoking seats; there's another branch upstairs on the eighth floor in the same building for smokers.
[Seating is all at the counter, making it comfortable for solo diners.] [Show more] [Show less] 
Original-recipe Kyoto-style okonomiyaki (similar to Osaka-style) is the specialty of the house here, with some offbeat variations built around avocados and tomatoes. Optional toppings like pork, shrimp, cheese, bacon and mushrooms are ready to add to the mix, and the voluminous portions are big enough to share, especially if you've had starters. Original-recipe Kyoto-style okonomiyaki (similar to Osaka-style) is the specialty of the house here, with some offbeat variations built around avocados and tomatoes. Optional toppings like pork, shrimp, cheese, bacon and mushrooms are ready to add to the mix, and the voluminous portions are big enough to share, especially if you've had starters.
Kyochabana's yakisoba is also recommended - real buckwheat noodles, rather than the usual ramen-style wheat noodles, are cooked up on the flat grill along with tomatoes and other vegetables, then livened up with tiny dabs of wasabi for an appealingly different take on this usually mundane dish. The creative side dishes are also impressive - Kyoto-style heirloom vegetables served with a tangy miso dip; sweet-potato vichyssoise; and a nice thick daikon radish steak served with yuzu and leek.
Drinks include budget wines as well as beer, shochu and plum wines. The basement dining room is cozy and unpretentious, service is friendly, and prices are quite reasonable - a nice combination in this often-overpriced neighborhood. Budget around ¥2500-3000 for dinner with a few drinks. [Show more] [Show less] 
Dried baby sardines (niboshi) have been a common ingredient in ramen for many years. It wasn't until recently, though, that ramen chefs began using them in abundance. The tiny fish have a very bitter flavor, and cooking them too long will ruin anything. So when a shop comes along that is able to extract as much smoky, fishy taste from their niboshi as possible, fans rejoice. Dried baby sardines (niboshi) have been a common ingredient in ramen for many years. It wasn't until recently, though, that ramen chefs began using them in abundance. The tiny fish have a very bitter flavor, and cooking them too long will ruin anything. So when a shop comes along that is able to extract as much smoky, fishy taste from their niboshi as possible, fans rejoice.
Golden Gai, in Shinjuku's Kabukicho entertainment district, is a sight to behold. With more bars per square meter than anywhere else in the world, you wouldn't expect an amazing ramen shop. But there it is, up on the second floor. Just look for the ever-present line. Feel free to drink before coming here, niboshi ramen is an amazing hangover preventative measure.
The menu is simple, go for either the niboshi ramen (¥820) or the niboshi ramen with egg (¥920). Squeeze in with the other happy slurpers, and enjoy some of the strongest soup in Tokyo. The noodles are rough as well, curly flat noodles that soak up just the right amount of the soup. [Show more] [Show less] Fantastic, authentic Taiwanese-style dumplings; including the hot-broth-filled shoronpo dumplings for which they're most famous.
[Go to branch review] Delicious Bretagne-style artisanal sweet crepes and savory buckwheat galettes are served along with hard cider and soft drinks imported from the region. When the weather permits, there's nice outdoor terrace seating next to the garden atop the Takashimaya/Times Square shopping complex.
This central Tokyo branch of a popular Kyoto-based tonkatsu shop stands out for both their overall high quality and the breadth of their menu offerings. In addition to regular and premium-pork grades of tonkatsu they offer dishes like deep-fried scallops and prawns, and yuba (tofu-skin) croquettes. This central Tokyo branch of a popular Kyoto-based tonkatsu shop stands out for both their overall high quality and the breadth of their menu offerings. In addition to regular and premium-pork grades of tonkatsu they offer dishes like deep-fried scallops and prawns, and yuba (tofu-skin) croquettes.
You'll find a a wealth of side dishes like chawanmushi, tofu salad, and kakuni stewed pork, and there's a bewildering choice of set meals assembled from various permutations of dishes. The drinks selection is better than average, with a few nice sake brands. The decor is tasteful and modern. All in all, Katsukura is a reliable standby when you're in the mood for tonkatsu. [Show more] [Show less] MOF-award-winning chef Stephane Gaborieau presents a menu of modern French dishes popular at the Michelin-starred Parisian main branch of his restaurant - Basque-style anchovy-stuffed peppers with yogurt-chorizo sorbet; ris de veau with fondant-potato salad, and much more. Six-course dinners are Y11,500, or you can order a la carte.
The Hilton's Marble Lounge offers various special buffets throughout the day, including a breakfast buffet every day from 6:30 to 10:30am (to 11am on weekends).
Sizzler (Nishi-Shinjuku - American). 3342-5814
They have one of Tokyo's best salad bars, but try to avoid the huge crowds and hour-long lines on weekends.
The first restaurant in Japan from Michelin three-star chef Michel Troisgros. Prix-fixe lunches are Y7,900-10,500; dinners are Y14,700-18,900.
Perhaps the best deli counter in town, with a huge selection of cold cuts, pates and salads. Lunches are priced from around Y1000, and breakfast is served on weekdays from 8 to 10:30am. The outdoor terrace seating is pleasant in warmer months.
Fuunji (Nishi-Shinjuku - Ramen). 6413-8480
Tsukemen is everywhere in Tokyo. Expecially tonkotsu gyokai tsukemen. Pork and chicken bones are cooked on high heat for a long time to draw out as much creamy collagen as possible. Thickness is the key here. This soup is usually blended with a fishy soup made from dried Japanese fish. The result is like gravy, and the flavor is like nothing else in the world. Serve cold noodles on the side for dipping, and you have a very popular style of tsukemen. Tsukemen is everywhere in Tokyo. Expecially tonkotsu gyokai tsukemen. Pork and chicken bones are cooked on high heat for a long time to draw out as much creamy collagen as possible. Thickness is the key here. This soup is usually blended with a fishy soup made from dried Japanese fish. The result is like gravy, and the flavor is like nothing else in the world. Serve cold noodles on the side for dipping, and you have a very popular style of tsukemen.
There are many shops like this, and they tend to be universally good. One stands out though, and when you finally make it inside Fuunji, you'll see why it is considered a top spot for tsukemen in Tokyo. The line is always there, stretching out, across the street, and sometimes veering into the nearby park. The line moves fast, so jump in.
Be sure to order the tsukemen here (¥800). The ramen on the menu is good, but the tsukemen is where it's at. You'll be asked what size portion of noodles you want when you hand in your ticket. Nami gets you regular, and dai gets you a large size. Unless you are very hungry, go for the nami. Fuunji uses only chicken in their soup, something that is rarely done. Blended with a thick fish stock, and topped with fish powder, this one really clings to the noodles. The smoky, roasted taste can be enjoyed after the noodles are gone by diluting the soup with some broth, located on the counter. [Show more] [Show less] 
Yoyogi 2-14-3. Open 11am-3, 5-9pm. Closed Sundays.
This is the kind of unpretentious neighborhood trattoria that we love, serving good grilled meats and nice pastas, with some very reasonably priced wines in the Y3000-5000 range. Budget around Y2500-4000 for food at dinnertime.
This bistrot branch of the highly regarded L'Artemis restaurant in Jingumae offers a more casual experience and convenient late-night hours. The extensive wine list starts at around Y3000; budget Y4500-7500 for dinner.
While the decor is fairly ordinary for a neighborhood coffeeshop, the food, drinks and background music are all above average, and the whole room is non-smoking. Located next to Kita-Sando station on the Fukutoshin subway line.
Famous Kyushu ramen; kakuni (Chinese-style stewed pork) is one of their specialties, and helps explain the long lines at lunchtime.
Bills (Harajuku - Australian). 5772-1133
Breakfast is served from 8:30am through the end of lunchtime, with signature dishes like sweetcorn fritters with roast tomato, spinach and bacon (Y1400), and ricotta hotcakes with fresh bananas and honeycomb butter (Y1400). Sitting atop the seven-story Tokyu Plaza shopping complex at the crossroads of Harajuku, the restaurant offers a nice view facing south towards Shibuya, with some outdoor terrace seating.
A very well-stocked sake shop, plus a small stand-up bar where you can try samples in small 50ml tasting sizes. Usually there are around ten sakes open for tasting, priced Y200-400. There's also a small snack menu - prosciutto, cheese, dried mentaiko. The retail side of the shop stocks over 100 premium brands of sake, and unlike many shops that seem to specialize in those humongous isshobin bottles that won't fit in your fridge, most of the sake here is in convenient 720ml bottles or in tiny single-serving mini-bottles.
There's great American-style barbecue and a nice collection of a dozen craft beers to wash it down at this cozy bar-restaurant located halfway along Cat Street. Weekday lunches start at Y1000, and during the evening you can snack on sandwiches (from Y1200) or indulge in mains like their voluminous four-meat platter with two side dishes (Y3800 for two people). In addition to beer, the bar carries well-chosen craft bourbons and other artisanal liquors. The soundtrack leans heavily towards the blues.
There are maps of Portand Oregon on the wall and music from Portland indie bands on the stereo; the bartender sports a lumberjack shirt and a beard. Most important though, they sell Portland's greatest export - a rotating selection of ten craft beers from various Oregon breweries. Prices are Y700 for a half pint and Y1100 for a pint.
Benoit (Omotesando - Mediterranean). 5468-0881
From French celeb chef Alain Ducasse, a Mediterranean restaurant covering the cuisines of Italy, Spain, North Africa and Greece. The dining room is comfortable and attractively laid out, with nice views of Aoyama-dori, Shibuya and Shinjuku. Service is professional without being stiff. The wine list has some nice choices for under Y9000, and wine by the glass is fairly reasonable. Prix-fixe dinners from Y8,000, lunches from Y4500.
Inexpensive bakery and deli items and salads from the famous no-brand design store Mujirushi.
Coutume (Omotesando - Coffee shop). 6418-5325
Coutume Cafe has been an important specialty coffee destination since they first opened in Paris in 2011, where they also train barista staff and roast beans for more than sixty other cafes and restaurants. Now they've started operations in Aoyama, offering a rotating selection of single-origin drip coffees, regular and micro-lot espressos, and an exclusive "Aoyama Special Blend" to Tokyo's coffee afficionados.
Two separate natural-food restaurants: "Hiroba", serving Japanese food, and "Home", with French cuisine. "Hiroba" offers a buffet lunch for Y1,200. (walk down Omotesando towards Harajuku, turn left at the Hanae Mori Building and walk one block)
Pommeke (Gaienmae - Belgian rest/beer bar). 6804-5884
Belgian frites (fried potatoes) - prepared by a former chef at the Belgian embassy - are the specialty at this casual standing bar. Frites are priced at Y550 for a medium-size portion (actually fairly hefty) and Y650 for an even larger ration. They come with a choice of plain mayonnaise or several other dips (although some of the extra-special dips run an extra Y50). If you're very hungry you can add on small side dishes like meatballs in tomato sauce or Flemish carbonade, a delicious beef and onion stew made with brown beer.
Azzurra (Gaienmae - Italian). 3497-1586
Skillfully constructed fish dishes and pastas from an extensive menu that changes daily.
Az Finom (Jingumae 2-chome - Hungarian). 5913-8073
Well-prepared Hungarian food and an excellent selection of around 40-50 Hungarian wines, mostly under Y10,000 and mostly served by the glass. The dining space has an old-fashioned European air about it, with a big wide counter area, three tables and a tiny private room off to one side.
Jingumae 2-19-5, Azuma Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Zest (Shibuya - Tex-Mex). 5489-3332
California-style Mexican food and drinks, served in one of Tokyo's noisiest restaurants.
Reliable pastas and other Italian dishes, with convenient late-night hours.
From the owners of the Zest Mexican chain, a lively, fun place serving Southeast Asian dishes. The food is tasty (but not extremely authentic).
This newest venture from the popular budget Italian chain promises to serve "an Italian mama's home-cooked meals."
BiOcafe (Shibuya - Cafe). 5428-3322
Organic coffee and tea, breads made with 100% natural yeast, and a completely smoke-free environment - Bio Cafe provides body and mind a bit of respite in junk-food-glutted Shibuya. With its soft-spoken staff and walls that fade from fuchsia to pearly pink, this quiet little cafe along Spain-zaka attracts a stylish, almost exclusively female crowd.
Aldgate (Shibuya - Beer bar). 3462-2983
One of Shibuya's more serious microbrew bars, The Aldgate offers 21 very nice craft beers on tap, mostly from Japan, Britain and the US. The food is English pub fare - Toad in the Hole, Cornish pasties, Daal Masala, Fish and Chips.
Gompachi (Shibuya - Japanese). 5784-2011
Japanese cuisine and a late-night sushi bar.
Tharros (Shibuya - Italian). 3464-8511
Very good Sardinian cuisine and wines; budget around Y7000-8000 for dinner.
Dogenzaka 1-5-2, Sede Bldg 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6pm-midnight (LO). Closed Sundays.
Fancy French food with a skyscraper view; prix-fixe dinners from Y8000, with lots of good wines in the Y10,000-15,000 range.
Occupying the second floor of a newish office building, Nakamura is a very tastefully appointed modern izakaya, with sophisticated lighting and sleek furnishings. A full crew of chefs work in the open kitchen area behind the massive central counter, which is the most entertaining place to sit. There's also a big shared table off to one side and several private dining rooms. The food is the sort of original seasonal cuisine that's popular in upscale dining bars, and there's a good sake list to match.
A mid-sized cafe located very close to Ebisu station, Melange has a living-room-themed decor, with bookcases, sofas, and numerous custom-made shelves and tiny stools for the 22 resident cats to perch on. Coffee and tea are served, and WiFi is free. Entry is a very reasonable Y600 for the first thirty minutes (Y700 on weekends).
Deluxe-level cooking and service in an elaborate castle-like setting. At dinnertime there's a rather extravagant 18-course tasting menu for Y35,000 per person (plus 12% service charge). The wine list covers some 1200 different varieties.
Located on the first floor of the Robuchon castle in Ebisu, this is a much more casual version of the main dining room upstairs, with inventive modern cuisine and a very reasonable wine list; prix-fixe lunch from Y2950 and dinner from Y7800.
One of the most highly rated teppanyaki restaurants in town, Yebisu also boasts a nice 22nd-floor view and convenient English menus. Full-course dinners with premium domestic beef, seasonal seafood and vegetables run Y15,000-25,000 and lunch is Y4,000-10,000. The menu often includes seafood-only dinners as well as beef-centered ones.
If you like both craft beer and craft sake, this new (February 2014) branch of Otsuka's legendary Bakushuan beer bar is the place for you. Ten mainly Japanese craft beers are served on tap, and there's a fairly impressive sake list and delicate seasonal cuisine to accompany it.
Tableaux (Daikanyama - International). 5489-2201
Under the same management as Zest and La Boheme, this is one of their two high-ticket California-style restaurants (along with Stellato). There's also a separate bar and cigar-smoking room (with a very effective ventilation system, fortunately).
Ivy Place (Daikanyama - International). 6415-3232
Breakfast at Ivy Place is served from 7-11am in the cafe at the front of the restaurant. Choices include classic buttermilk pancakes; scrambled eggs with herbs and mascarpone; smoked salmon on rye bread with baby greens; and fried eggs with Jambon de Bayonne, romesco and rucula. There are also "make your own breakfast" add-ons such as avocado, bacon, tomato and smoked salmon.
A branch of the Nishi-Azabu and Shibuya Monsoon Cafes, with eclectic Asian cuisine.
A convenient late-night Italian standby.
Taku (Nishi-Azabu - Sushi). 5774-4372
It's unusual to find high-quality sushi like this outside Ginza, but here it's presented in a modern dining room with late-night hours. They also serve French wines as an alternative to sake; wines from Y1000/ glass or Y10,000-Y150,000/ bottle. Budget around Y18,000 for dinner.
Zest (Nishi-Azabu - Tex-Mex). 3400-2235
Well-prepared, casual California-Mexican dishes and a variety of ever-popular frozen margaritas.
Gompachi (Nishi-Azabu - Japanese). 5771-0170
Good sushi and other straight-ahead Japanese fare from the late-night Global Dining group (La Boheme, Zest, etc.). The massive, multi-story space is always buzzing with activity, and sometimes seems to be the center of an international social scene in Tokyo.
Homework's (Hiroo - Sandwiches/ burgers). 3444-4560
Some of the best burgers in town, along with terrific salads and sandwiches.
La Boheme (Shirokanedai - Italian). 3442-4060
One of the few late-night spots in the neighborhood; pizzas and pastas in a multi-level, palatial setting.
Stellato (Shirokanedai - International). 3442-5588
Upscale California dining in a fun, thirties-movie-palace setting, from the owners of the Zest-La Boheme chain. Dinner with wine generally runs in the Y7,000-Y10,000 range. Bar open to 2am.
Although they're not our favorite oyster bar in Tokyo, Grand Central does offer an impressively big selection of oysters from all over. There's also a large, varied wine list (heavy on the whites, naturally), with lots of choices by the glass, in case you feel like just dropping in for a drink at the bar.
"Since 1930 Ginza" claims the sign, and they still offer the same nostalgic faux-Western yoshoku specialties like hamburg steaks, cabbage rolls and hayashi rice, for an inexpensive trip down memory lane. Lunch is served 11am-4pm.
This small but stylish bar specializes in koshu (vintage sake), and they offer several different tasting sets to guide your explorations. The Y1260 set features three different types of koshu, and changes weekly. There's also a set comparing three different mature koshu (Y1890), and a set comparing 5-, 10-, and 32-year-old vintages from the same brewery (Y3150). The food menu is very simple - assorted cheeses and smoked dishes. There's a Y450 cover charge; budget around Y4000.
The eagerly anticipated second branch of one of Tokyo's best craft beer bars, DevilCraft Hamamatsucho serves thirsty visitors from a nicely chosen roster of over twenty brews on tap, from both Japanese and American breweries. They're also known for their overstuffed deep-dish Chicago-style pizzas, and the Buffalo chicken wings and spinach-artichoke dip with tortilla chips make excellent starters.
Superb, inventive American cuisine from noted Tokyo chef Ian Tozer, built around a deceptively casual menu. The dining room is pleasantly smoke-free, and there's outdoor patio seating when the weather permits.
Ryugin (Roppongi - Kaiseki). 3423-8006
Chef Seiji Yamamoto does a very impressive take on experimental cuisine from a Japanese perspective, with eye-openers like edamame foam with pulverized ice cream and foie gras with figs. Eleven-course prix-fixe menus run Y15,750, Y21,000 and Y26,250, and there's a seven-sake selection paired with the food for an extra Y5000.
Suzunami (Roppongi - Japanese). 5413-0335
This small Nagoya-based shop served excellent broiled fish that has been marinated in sake lees. Set meals are priced around Y1000-2000.
LB6 (Roppongi - Grill). 3478-0222
A reasonably priced, very casual wine bar and grill. The eclectic wine list starts from Y2500/bottle, with 11 wines by the glass or decanter. There are also microbrew beers from Baird Brewery and artisanal cocktails. The food menu features dishes like grilled loin of pork and lamb chops, assorted hams, and shellfish steamed in wine.
"New-style French dining" in a very stylish dining room. The food is first-rate and the ambience is casual, with all counter seating. The focus of attention is the open kitchen space on the other side of the counter - a performance space really - where the chefs go about their work.
Il Mulino (Roppongi Hills - Italian). 5786-0337
This popular international chain restaurant serves New York-style Italian fare, with a focus on Roman cuisine. The menu features ten veal dishes (ranging Y5000-8000), scampi, and a good selection of daily specials.
Spicy regional Chinese dishes from Guizhou and Yunnan provinces (just north of Laos and Vietnam). Budget around Y6-7000 at night, Y1000 at lunchtime.
Homework's (Azabu-Juban - Sandwiches/ burgers). 3405-9884
They grill up some of the best burgers in town, and also assemble great sandwiches (including an inspirational shrimp and avocado combination) and voluminous baskets of French fries.
Filling a gap in the Tokyo dining scene, The Chef's Table offers upscale Latin American cuisine paired with good, affordable wines. Owner Sohan Ahluwalia brings the same imagination and flair to the cuisines of South America as he did to Cajun cooking at the popular Bourbon Street in Nogizaka.
Frijoles (Azabu-Juban - Tex-Mex). 6459-4095
Decent fast-food-style burritos, tacos, and fajitas, all made from premium organic ingredients. Choose from grilled chicken, carnitas (braised pork), steak or vegetarian filling; prices range from Y800-1100. There's a small but tastefully appointed dining area, or you can take out.
Inexpensive pastas and Italian wines by the glass, with convenient late-night hours.
Wakanui (Azabu-Juban - Steak house). 3568-3466
Run by a New Zealand meat company, Wakanui was set up to introduce Tokyo gourmets to premium beef, lamb and wines from New Zealand, and they succeed quite admirably at that mission. The dining room is attractive but not overly fussy, with an open kitchen and a glass-enclosed aging room at one end to literally showcase the beef. The off-the-beaten-track location was chosen for its proximity to Nissin, an international market where patrons can pick up the same meats and wines that are served here and bring them home.
Nirvanam (Kamiyacho - Indian). 3433-1217
The cooking here is a level above the usual Tokyo Indian restaurant - sophisticated dishes with distinctive flavors and top-quality ingredients. The emphasis is on southern Indian specialties (the owner is from Kerala), with lots of curries of mutton, fish and chicken and some great starters. The popular lunchtime buffet is bigger than average, with fifteen different dishes. Budget around Y3000-4500 at dinnertime.
Toranomon 3-19-7. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
This stunning venture from the Hiramatsu group and the famous French chef Paul Bocuse occupies one of the most spectacular public spaces in Tokyo, inside the new national art gallery. Three-course prix-fixe lunch is Y1800; in the evening a la carte mains average around Y2700.
This cozy backstreet diner serves a menu of American-style gourmet burgers and sandwiches, to stay or to go. The unusual broccoli cheeseburger (Y1270) is one of our favorites - the slightly crunchy broccoli florets slathered with melted Monterey Jack cheese sitting atop the burger yield a pleasing combination of textures and flavors. Another novel offering is the peach burger (Y1200), made with yellow cling peaches in syrup.
Kikunoi (Akasaka - Kaiseki). 3568-6055
Third-generation kaiseki chef (and sometime TV celeb) Yoshihiro Murata is known for his innovative approach to kaiseki cuisine, drawing on French cooking techniques and ingredients. He has two branches in Kyoto, but this is his first Tokyo venture. Full-blown kaiseki service starts at Y15,750, with lunch priced at Y10,500. No lunch on Mondays.
Akasaka 6-13-8. Open noon-1, 5-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Rakutei (Akasaka - Tempura). 3585-3743
The decor is austere and the mood is subdued at this exclusive twelve-seat tempura counter. All the energy is focused on the tempura, which is world class. The chef and his assistant stick to basics, with top-quality seasonal ingredients lightly fried and served with either lemon, plain salt or a simple dipping sauce. Prix-fixe menus are Y10,500 or Y12,600, with optional sashimi starter course for Y4,200. The drinks list offers a choice of several good sakes (Kubota Manju is Y2000/1-go) or French wines. Some English spoken.
Decent fast-food-style burritos, tacos, and fajitas, all made from premium organic ingredients. Choose from grilled chicken, carnitas (braised pork), steak or vegetarian filling; prices range from Y800-1100. Outdoor seating is available.
Akasaka 2-11-13, Common Akasaka 1F. Open 11am-8pm. Closed weekends.
Alluring Basque-style bocadillo baguette sandwiches are served at lunchtime here, and the namesake Fermintxo Boca sandwich (grilled Iberico pork loin, mozzarella and pimento) is especially recommended, as is the Iberico-pork sausage variety. Alluring Basque-style bocadillo baguette sandwiches are served at lunchtime here, and the namesake Fermintxo Boca sandwich (grilled Iberico pork loin, mozzarella and pimento) is especially recommended, as is the Iberico-pork sausage variety.
In the evenings the menu expands to include an array of tapas and drinks. Budget around ¥6000 at night, ¥1000-1500 during the day. [Show more] [Show less] Roppongi 1-4-5, Ark Hills South Tower 1F. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO; Sat -9pm). Closed Sundays, holidays.
Anpuku (Toranomon - Udon). 6257-3850
Novel, fusion-style udon is the specialty here, with intriguing choices such as udon carbonara and beef-tendon curry udon. Recommendations include a very refined, Chinese-inspired tantanmen udon with a satisfyingly spicy sesame sauce, and a compelling Italian-style four-cheese udon that had me scooping up the very last of the sauce from the bowl. Novel, fusion-style udon is the specialty here, with intriguing choices such as udon carbonara and beef-tendon curry udon. Recommendations include a very refined, Chinese-inspired tantanmen udon with a satisfyingly spicy sesame sauce, and a compelling Italian-style four-cheese udon that had me scooping up the very last of the sauce from the bowl.
A serving of udon here is filling enough to make a complete meal, but if you're in the mood for starters you'll find a good selection of charcoal-grilled meats, fish and vegetables. There are also original dishes like "caprese tempura" - mozzarella, cherry tomatoes and basil, tempura-fried with a light, delicate coating.
Another uniquely appealing feature at Anpuku is the small sake bar at the front of the shop. A couple dozen well-chosen craft sakes from around the country are served in taster-size 60ml or full 120ml portions, in your choice of standard sake cups or proper wine glasses (the latter is recommended). Of course you can order sake in the restaurant proper, or noodles at the sake bar as you wish. Most udon bowls are in the ¥1000-1200 range, and sake tastings are quite reasonable as well. [Show more] [Show less] Serious coffee fans in the Toranomon area were happy to hear about the opening of this office-building branch of the cult-favorite Omotesando Koffee in Aoyama. The polished-wood decor is quite minimal, the better to focus attention on the laboratory-like coffee-brewing area.
In addition to drip coffee and sandwiches, this tiny cafe also offers seven wines by the glass, priced at Y350-600. There's even a bit of terrace seating.
Craft Beer Market offers thirty different brews on draft, including a good number of seasonal specials. Prices are noticeably less expensive than the average Tokyo microbrew bar, with pints priced at just Y780 and glasses at Y480. (There's also a Y300 table charge.)
Nishi-Shimbashi 1-23-3, SA Grace 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11:30pm. Closed weekends.
Mu-hung (Uchisaiwaicho - Singaporean). 3591-6558
Singapore-style chicken rice is the well-prepared specialty at this tiny eight-seat counter, with your choice of either steamed or deep-fried chicken. (We prefer the deep-fried.) Other dishes include nice Malaysian curries with excellent fried roti (bread), and other Malaysian/Singaporean specialties.
Nishi-Shimbashi 2-15-12, Eastern Bldg B1F. Open 11am-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Coffee from Dutch artisanal roaster JH and San Francisco's Zaranda roasters is served in this pleasantly modern coffee bar located near Toranomon Hills.
Ishii (Shimbashi - Izakaya). 3593-0141
If you're a sake afficianado you'll be delighted by the stellar selection at this unpretentious little izakaya. Chances are you'll make some interesting discoveries, and perhaps even meet a brewer who's dropped in for a drink while visiting Tokyo. The sake list changes weekly, and features many limited-edition, seasonal bottles from small craft breweries - the kind of selections that are seldom sold in retail stores.
Shimbashi 2-15-10, Ishibashi Bldg 1F. Open 6-11pm (LO). Closed weekends.
Kuri (Shimbashi - Bar). 3438-3375
Run by the Moto-Azabu liquor shop Kurihara, this is a larger branch of the original Kuri in Ginza, specializing in sake and shochu. For your tasting cnovenience, sake comes in small (60ml) glasses as an option. Their list of posted rules includes a prohibition on strong perfumes and smoking.
[Go to branch review] Shinbashi 3-19-4, Sakurai Bldg 2F. Open 4-11:30pm (drink LO). Closed Sundays.
People don't come to Shinshu Osake Mura for the atmosphere, or the music (there isn't any). There aren't even any chairs. The reason to visit this hole-in-the-wall, standing-only sake bar, located on the ground floor of one of Shimbashi's most ancient office buildings, is the great sake list. People don't come to Shinshu Osake Mura for the atmosphere, or the music (there isn't any). There aren't even any chairs. The reason to visit this hole-in-the-wall, standing-only sake bar, located on the ground floor of one of Shimbashi's most ancient office buildings, is the great sake list.
Thirty or forty varieties are poured at any given time, including plenty of seasonal, limited-edition specials. Most are priced at either Y300 or Y500 for a decent 110ml pour - a major Tokyo sake bargain. It helps a lot if you can converse with the enthusiastic bartender in Japanese - he's eager to offer suggestions based on your tastes, and he hasn't steered us wrong.
Sake-friendly snacks - heavily tilted towards the salty end of the flavor spectrum (smoked tofu, spicy beef tongue), are Y300 each. If you want a break from nihonshu, the bar also serves over a dozen Japanese craft beers in bottles and cans, plus one or two on draft, starting at around Y240. [Show more] [Show less] Shimbashi 2-20-15, Shimbashi Ekimae Bldg #1 1F. Open 11am-9:30pm (LO). Closed weekends.
Dry Dock (Shimbashi - Beer bar). 5777-4755
Perhaps this isn't the narrowest bar in Tokyo, but it's certainly the narrowest bar offering such an impressive class of craft beers, both domestic and imported. Cleverly, the tiny space is fashioned to resemble a yacht, with porthole windows and nautical decor throughout. Three small tables fill the upper deck, while the lower deck is standing-room only, with space for maybe seven or eight along the port-side bar.
Shimbashi 3-25-10. Open 5pm-12:30am. Closed Sundays.
Modern French cuisine from chef Tateru Yoshino, formerly of the Michelin-starred Stella Maris in Paris. The menu includes dishes like risotto of watercress with frogs legs; carpaccio of Canadian shrimp with corn ice cream; duck foie gras with crystalized eggplant in cacao sauce; and roast lamb with pumpkin puree. The attached wine bar offers cheaper a la carte options and very late hours for this office neighborhood.
The Imperial's French restaurant is a prime spot for business-meeting breakfasts in Ginza, and the food is traditional but top-notch. Breakfast is served from 7-10am, starting from Y3780.
Peter (Hibiya - International). 6270-2763
The flashy main dining room of the Peninsula Hotel offers gorgeous views and an entertaining menu of modern international cuisine. Have fun putting together your own meal of three, four, or five courses (from Y8500, or Y4800 at lunchtime), with down-to-earth dishes like their "Roasted Duck Foie Gras, Ginger Bread-Citrus Marmalade Mille Feuille, Foie Gras Ice Cream, Balsamic Yogurt". The wine cellar is made up mostly of half-bottles, starting at around Y3700; wine by the glass from Y1600.
Five famous Japanese curry shops have gotten together to create this tiny 15-seat counter. Try them all - for Y2500 you can get a set of curries from all five shops, or you can order individual curries for around Y1000 each. (The collaborating shops are Ethiopia, Delhi, Topca, Dom Pierre, and Hongo Petit Feu.)
Simple, well-prepared Japanese standards, including grilled chicken, in a lively atmosphere.
Zest (Ginza - Tex-Mex). 5524-3621
Reasonably priced fare from the Tex side of the Tex-Mex border, with colorful frozen and non-frozen margaritas.
Sanshou (Ginza - Okonomiyaki). 050-3774-4402
If you've got a hearty appetite, the Special Sansho Okonomiyaki (¥1660) is the way to go - it's packed with plenty of shrimp and squid, pork, vegetables and ramen noodles, and topped with two juicy fried oysters. Sitting at the counter, you can watch the rather complicated assembly process step by step - it's quite impressive. If you've got a hearty appetite, the Special Sansho Okonomiyaki (¥1660) is the way to go - it's packed with plenty of shrimp and squid, pork, vegetables and ramen noodles, and topped with two juicy fried oysters. Sitting at the counter, you can watch the rather complicated assembly process step by step - it's quite impressive.
The finished product is nicely balanced in flavor and texture, from the thin layer of fried egg on top to the lightly charred bits of squid and the partially crunchy noodles. You can fine-tune your experience with tangy sauce, spicy mayonnaise, red pepper, black pepper and garlic powder, or order toasted garlic chips as an optional topping.
As is typical for an okonomiyaki shop, there's also a selection of other items from the teppan grill - in this case bacon-asparagus stir-fry, pork-kimchee, squid tentacles, moyashi (bean sprouts), steaks and several oyster dishes. You can choose from a selection of premium Hiroshima sake and shochu to wash it down. English menus are available.
Sanshou is located on the second floor of the Hiroshima Prefecture "antenna shop," which also carries fresh produce, prepared foods, sake, wine and handicrafts from Hiroshima. Also on the second floor is a standing bar where you can sample Hiroshima sake and wine by the glass. [Show more] [Show less] The third Tokyo restaurant from Lyon-based celeb-chef Paul Bocuse offers prix-fixe dinners from Y5500-9500. Wines are Y5000-250,000, with less scarily priced options by the glass or carafe. The impressively large dining room has a curved wall of windows overlooking Ginza to the south.
This outpost of the popular Miravile restaurant in Komaba specializes in desserts - with an Y1890 three-course menu (starter dessert with tea, main platter of two desserts with tea, final dessert plus tea or coffee) and a Y2980 version that includes drinks. The decor is elegant and casual - boldly colored graphics on the walls, burnt-orange stools at a wide counter plus a few small tables along the wall.
Refined Vietnamese classics from the chef behind the upscale Queen Alice restaurants. Try the desserts recommended by their "vegetable sommelier"! Budget around Y4000 for dinner.
Bincho (Ginza - Unagi). 5159-0231
This first Tokyo branch of a famous Nagoya shop prepares eel that's grilled over binchotan charcoal and served with their own special Nagoya-style tamari sauce. Lunch and dinner sets are Y2380-5900; there are also other eel and side dish options and a better-than-average sake selection.
Top-notch, creative Italian fare, beautifullly presented, from the very talented chef Luca Fantin. The main dining room is modern and stylish; there's also a popular bar-lounge area one level up (open noon-midnight), and a rooftop lounge with a great Tokyo view. Prix-fixed lunches are priced Y5,000-10,000; dinners are Y13,000-22,000. On Sundays they're open only for lunch.
Ginza 2-7-12, Ginza Tower 8F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Dazzle (Ginza - International). 5159-0991
The immodestly named Dazzle is one of Tokyo's flashiest restaurants, with futuristic lighting and a theatrical entrance - the elevator deposits you in the middle of the kitchen, after which you take a second ride to the glitzy dining room. The food is entertainingly fusionesque, and is accompanied by wines from France, Italy, Spain, Australia, America and Japan, starting in the Y5000 range. Budget around Y6,000-9,000 per person before drinks.
Beige (Ginza - French). 5159-5500
Master chef Alain Ducasse's joint venture with Chanel provides excellent modern French cuisine in a lovely setting. The food isn't quite as spectacular as the prices though - mains average Y8000-9000, with prix-fixe dinner menus from Y17,000. Lunches start at Y6000 (for a three-course vegetarian menu), and there are a few wines under Y10,000. There's also a popular afternoon tea set (Y2600) served from 2:30-4pm.
With 450 varieties of world teas from 32 countries, Mariage Freres in Ginza offers the tea aficionado a rare combination of elegance, atmosphere and quality. Only the "finest harvests" are offered to complement an excellent selection of light meals and sinful desserts. Non-smoking.
Ginza 5-6-6. Open noon-8pm.
Anago eel and warm sake are the specialties at this popular spot. Budget around Y6000-8000 for food and drink. No lunch on Saturdays.
Inexpensive pastas and Italian wines by the glass, with convenient late-night service.
Kyubei (Ginza - Sushi). 3571-6523
Yes you can pay a lot more for sushi at Michelin multi-starred counters if you want to, but Kyubei offers excellent quality fish at somewhat more affordable prices, especially at lunchtime, in a much more relaxed setting. (Some of the chefs even speak a bit of English.) Kyubei were the inventors of gunkan-maki (the wrap-around technique for fish roe and similar sushi). Lunches start at Y4000 for a nigiri set menu, or Y8000 for omakase. Dinners from Y10,000, with a Y30,000 kaiseki sushi course that's quite a spectacle.
Ginza 8-7-6. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Popular with Indian customers, Dharmasagara serves great South Indian cuisine, with especially good dosa and other breads and plenty of interesting vegetable-centered options. Lunch from Y1200, prix-fixe dinner from Y3150 or a la carte.
Mother Leaf brews aromatic teas from five varieties of Sri Lankan tea leaves in a peaceful, smoke-free atmosphere.
This first Tokyo branch of one of Kyoto's best Italian restaurants occupies a small, minimal but elegant dining room facing the street. Dinner is either Y7500 or Y10,000 - chef's omakase menu only - with reasonably priced bottles and half-bottles of Italian wines. Lunch from Y2000.
Tokyo Karaage Bar does more than just serve great fried chicken - they've turned it into a fun evening out. The menu is much more elaborate than other karaage shops: first of all, you get to choose your favorite parts of the bird - wings, breast, thigh, fatty bonjiri (tail), gizzards, liver. Each order is around ¥378, so you can mix and match without worrying too much about the evening's budget. Tokyo Karaage Bar does more than just serve great fried chicken - they've turned it into a fun evening out. The menu is much more elaborate than other karaage shops: first of all, you get to choose your favorite parts of the bird - wings, breast, thigh, fatty bonjiri (tail), gizzards, liver. Each order is around ¥378, so you can mix and match without worrying too much about the evening's budget.
You can also customize your chicken with a dozen different dips (or "toppings" as they're called here). These come in flavors like shallot tartar sauce, classic yuzu kosho, and an ultra-spicy "death salsa." The freshly fried chicken is impressively crisp on the outside, with a satisfying crunch and juicy, tender meat.
Drinks include wine and cocktails as well as beer, and starters like smoked duck and pork rillettes can round out your meal if you want to get fancy. The setting is very casual and lively - a counter surrounding the kitchen, plus a few barrel-tables up front with stools. [Show more] [Show less] Kua 'Aina (Marunouchi - Sandwiches/ burgers). 5220-2400
Hawaiian-style burgers and sandwiches. The atrium deck is very airy and pleasant, but seating there is limited.
Michelin-starred traditional French dining overlooking Tokyo Station. Prix-fixe lunches are Y3,500-6,000, dinners Y7,000-12,000.
This relatively quiet branch of the popular Hasegawa sake retail specialist is furnished with a small counter area where you can try out a tasting set of three sake of the month, along with a tiny snack, for Y1260.
Mostly an all-day cafe/restaurant, although they also have a small deli counter and grocery section with coffees and teas, spices, baked goods, cold cuts, four kinds of smoked salmon, and real dill pickles. Groceries cover the luxury end of the spectrum, with Y1800 jars of pasta sauce and exotic pates.
Lou (Yaesu - Dim sum). 6256-0377
Chinese dumplings - to eat in or take out - are the specialty of this Kamakura-based shop inside the new Gran Roof complex next to Tokyo Station. The take-out menu includes three types of gyoza (shrimp, shrimp-shiso and pork-shrimp), three types of shumai, pork buns and a few rice dishes. Dumplings start at around Y100 per dumpling, and there's a Y1500 deluxe bento if you want to splurge.
Yabaton (Yaesu - Tonkatsu). 3212-8810
One of Nagoya's most famous tonkatsu shops, Yabaton is known for their tasty miso-slathered cutlets and their cute pig-sumo wrestler mascot. The teppan tonkatsu (¥1365) is their best-selling dish - a hefty portion of fatty pork cutlet covered in a sweetish miso sauce, laid over a bed of cabbage and served on a metal platter that steams and sizzles at it arrives in front of you. The large and very meaty pork soup is highly recommended as a side dish.
Towers (Kyobashi - Beer bar). 3272-8488
This tiny standup bar always has a number of good Japanese microbrews and international beers on tap. Food is limited to snacks.
Yaesu 2-8-10. Open 5:30-11pm. Closed weekends.
Frijoles (Otemachi - Tex-Mex). 6256-0388
Decent fast-food-style burritos, tacos, and fajitas, all made from premium organic ingredients. Choose from grilled chicken, carnitas (braised pork), steak or vegetarian filling; prices range from Y800-1100.
Otemachi 1-5-1, Otemachi First Square East 1F. Open 11am-10pm (Sat -6pm). Closed Sundays.
Camp (Otemachi - Curry). 6273-4635
The healthy and quite tasty Japanese curries here are heavy on the vegetables - in fact the special of the house promises a full day's ration of vegetables. The shop itself is decorated in a whimsical camping-equipment theme - portable lanterns, backpacks, thermos bottles - and most dishes are served on miniature iron skillets.
Gent (Otemachi - Belgian rest/beer bar). 6273-4662
The seventh (and smallest) Tokyo venue from the Belgian Beer Cafe group, Gent (with a hard "g") is located in the basement of a new Otemachi office complex called Ootemori. They offer the the usual selection of several dozen Belgian beers, with four or five on tap, and unusually for this neighborhood, they are open on Sundays (at least for now). Note that there is a Y500 table charge.
Ventaglio (Mitsukoshimae - Italian). 3270-8188
Lunch and dinner buffets of modern Italian cuisine in a beautiful open-atrium dining space. The weekday lunch buffet is Y2900; weekend lunch is Y4200, dinner is Y5000, and the weekend dessert buffet (3-5pm) is Y2700. They also offer a wine buffet to go with dinner.
K'Shiki (Mitsukoshimae - International). 3270-8188
The Mandarin Oriental's casual-dining spot offers creative contemporary cuisine with an Asian twist, plus a great view of Ginza and Marunouchi. In the morning you'll find good Japanese and international breakfasts (Y2800-3800).
Sense (Mitsukoshimae - Chinese). 3270-8188
The Mandarin Oriental's Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant offers an excellent weekend dim sum lunch from 11:30am-4pm. Choose from twenty varieties, all you can eat, for Y5000 (+10%). Weekday lunches start at Y3800, dinners from Y14,000.
Here inside the Mandarin Hotel's 38th-floor lounge, the eight-seat Tapas Molecular Bar serves cutting-edge modern cuisine. Twenty-one plates of highly inventive, deconstructivist, very tasty morsels are presented over the course of two hours (Y14,000+13%sc).
Zakuro (Mitsukoshimae - Japanese). 3241-4841
Shabu-shabu, sukiyaki and other Japanese beef dishes; they also offer pork shabu-shabu. Prix-fixe dinners are priced Y5,000-15,000; lunch from around Y2000.
CBM offers thirty beers on tap - mostly Japanese craft beers - priced at a very budget-friendly Y480/glass or Y780/pint. The food menu is also fairly impressive, with dishes like roast duck a l'orange.
Dandan (Kayabacho - Izakaya). 3551-4920
This very old-fashioned izakaya has a genuine shitamachi (tradional Tokyo) feel to it - sumo paraphernalia on the walls, colorful kites on the ceiling, a TV set going in the corner, and three big communal tables for customers. The shop is especially known for their beef motsu nikomi, a salty, intensely flavored miso-based stew featuring a variety of organ meats. This very old-fashioned izakaya has a genuine shitamachi (tradional Tokyo) feel to it - sumo paraphernalia on the walls, colorful kites on the ceiling, a TV set going in the corner, and three big communal tables for customers. The shop is especially known for their beef motsu nikomi, a salty, intensely flavored miso-based stew featuring a variety of organ meats.
I'd recommend the tofu nikomi (¥350), which is the same stew but with several chunks of tofu to soak up the rich flavors. The rest of the menu tends towards snacks for drinking, such as roast duck. Bring your own napkins.
The drinks list includes seven or eight different sake, priced from ¥450 and served either room temperature or heated to one of three different levels; there are also one or two sake served cold. [Show more] [Show less] Shinkawa 1-8-20. Open 5-10pm. Closed weekends.
Excellent traditional French cooking in a comfortable, smoke-free dining space reminiscent of a provincial French inn.
Wakaba 2-7, Video Focus Bldg 1F. Open noon-2, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Ebiden (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 3353-2990
Good tempura at reasonable prices at this unpretentious neighborhood shop. The tempura teishoku is Y1890, full-course dinners are Y2940, and fancy kaiseki menus start at Y5250. Lunch starts at Y680, with a deluxe tempura teishoku going for Y1260.
Sakamachi 15. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Shoji (Akebonobashi - Tempura). 5379-3557
One of the specialties of the house at this first-rate tempura counter is anago, served with a tasty golden-brown coating that's thicker than average and satisfyingly crunchy. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5,000, Y7,000 and Y10,000, with reasonably priced sake and wines to accompany your meal. Voluminous deluxe donburi lunches are a bargain at Y1700-2000.
Sumiyoshicho 2-18, Win Yotsuya 2F. Open 11:30am-1, 6-8:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Gachi (Akebonobashi - Ramen). 6380-4874
There's no better way to enjoy amazing, housemade ramen noodles than in a bowl of abura soba. Literally meaning oil-noodles, abura soba leaves the soup out, with only some tare seasoning, oils, and toppings. Gachi, part of the Mensho ramen group, has a noodle factory in the back. Depending on the time you go, you might see someone back there feeding sheets of dough through the noodle machine, prepping for the next day. There's no better way to enjoy amazing, housemade ramen noodles than in a bowl of abura soba. Literally meaning oil-noodles, abura soba leaves the soup out, with only some tare seasoning, oils, and toppings. Gachi, part of the Mensho ramen group, has a noodle factory in the back. Depending on the time you go, you might see someone back there feeding sheets of dough through the noodle machine, prepping for the next day.
Go for the regular abura soba (¥690), or if you love chashu go for the chashu abura soba (¥890). An important note with abura soba, you need to mix it vigorously. Mix, mix, mix, then mix some more. All this mixing activates some of the gluten in the noodles, and will make it taste even better. Eat a bite or two, then add in a few squirts of hot oil and vinegar. Have a couple more bites, and then add in any of the shop's other free toppings. Crispy noodle bits, herb garlic, spicy mayo, and more. This is a fun, messy bowl that really satisfies. [Show more] [Show less] Sumiyoshicho 7-10. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
The sake selection at this Michelin-starred izakaya is pretty impressive, and the food is above average, but not quite good enough to justify the prices. Prix-fixe menus are the only option, and they start at Y5000. Seating is cramped, but service is friendly and the non-smoking policy improves things a bit.
Yotsuya 2-10, Matsumotokan B1F. Open 6-10:15pm (LO). Closed Sundays, Mondays.
Healthy Kan (Ichigaya - Japanese/health food). 3263-4023
A tasty assortment of healthy Japanese dishes and excellent Belgian beer.
Rokubancho 4, Asahi Rokubancho Mansion 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 4:30-9pm. Closed Sundays.
No 4 (Ichigaya - Bakery). 3234-4440
A casual bakery and all-day cafe, No 4 (named after its Yonbancho location) offers local diners everything from fresh-baked sourdough bread, pastries and fantastic coffee (from the excellent Nozy coffee roastery) in the mornings to craft beers (from TY Harbor), natural wines and pizzas at dinnertime. Reservations are not accepted.
Excellent-quality modern French cuisine at this elegant bistrot-restaurant. Chef Olivier was a veteran of La Tour d'Argent in Paris and the Cordon Bleu cooking school in Tokyo before opening his namesake restaurant. Prix-fixe dinners are Y5800 and Y8000 (or order a la carte), and the wine list offers some reasonably priced options under Y6000. Budget around Y10,000-12,000 with drinks. Lunches start at Y1575; no lunch on Saturday.
Kudan-Minami 4-1-10. Open 11:30am-2, 6:30-10pm. Closed Sundays.
A very pleasant combination art-gallery and cafe space, La Chimica looks like a place you'd find in the backstreets of Daikanyama rather than the Ichigaya business district. The barristas here are very serious about their coffee, serving, among other drinks, a special iced coffee that's steeped over the course of eight hours.
Kudan-kita 4-3-6. Open 11am-6pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
An artsy little neighborhood cafe serving espresso beverages, drip coffee of the day, and matcha. Lunches run Y500-1000, and they also roast their own beans, on sale from Y450/100g.
A New Zealand coffee specialist, Mojo roasts their beans onsite and serves espresso drinks in down-under variations like Flat White and Long Black. The small neighborhood shop has a minimalist modern decor and a soundtrack veering towards alt-rock.
Paul (Kagurazaka - Bakery). 6280-7723
Good pastries and sandwiches, to eat in or take out, at this French-based bakery-cafe.
Kagurazaka 5-1-4, Kagurazaka Terrace 1F. Open 10am-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Tucked away in the rather institutional-looking basement of the Athenee Francaise, this branch of the French-based cafe serves a range of good, made-to-order French-style sandwiches.
Kanda Surugadai 2-11, Athenee Francais B1F. Open 11am-7:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Katchan (Jimbocho - Gyukatsu). 5577-6050
Katchan serves a unique, very tasty dipping sauce for their gyukatsu - it's both spicy and sweet, and it really brings out the flavor of the meat. The recommended dish here is the double-size portion of gyukatsu (beef cutlet) with menchi katsu (deep-fried minced-meat patty) on the side, a bargain at just ¥1180. The beef is tender and served rare in the middle, and the menchi katsu is the perfect counterpoint - very juicy with lots of onion bits adding texture and flavor, wrapped in a crunchy fried shell. Katchan serves a unique, very tasty dipping sauce for their gyukatsu - it's both spicy and sweet, and it really brings out the flavor of the meat. The recommended dish here is the double-size portion of gyukatsu (beef cutlet) with menchi katsu (deep-fried minced-meat patty) on the side, a bargain at just ¥1180. The beef is tender and served rare in the middle, and the menchi katsu is the perfect counterpoint - very juicy with lots of onion bits adding texture and flavor, wrapped in a crunchy fried shell.
Gyukatsu is available in single, double and triple servings, with optional grated yam (tororo) or grated daikon radish (oroshi) toppings for an extra ¥100 or so. Purchase a ticket for your meal from the ticket machine at the door when you arrive. No dinner on Saturdays. [Show more] [Show less] Kanda Jimbocho 1-8. Open 11am-3:30, 5-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Somewhat less expensive than the average Tokyo microbrew bar, US pints here are priced at just Y780 and glasses at Y480. (There's also a Y300 table charge.) You can choose from thirty different mostly local brews on draft, including an exclusive beer from Baird Brewery. The food is also quite good, with well-prepared dishes like rotisserie chicken and roast duck a l'orange.
Kanda Jimbocho 2-11-15. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5-11pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Located a few minutes from CBM's first Jimbocho outlet, this branch offers a spacious open-air seating area for when weather permits. Beers are the same budget-friendly prices as at other branches (Y480 for small glasses and Y780 for pints), and the thirty taps dispense both Japanese and imported craft beers. The kitchen specializes in Italian and smoked dishes. No lunch on Saturdays.
Kanda Nishikicho 3-22, Terrace Square 1F. Open 11:30am-1:30, 5-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
The original Japanese curries here incorporate umami-rich coconut milk, ripe tomatoes and cheese as well as fresh seasonal vegetables. Some popular options (from Y730) are oysters and spinach with baked cheese; ripe tomato, eggplant and chicken; and pork-cabbage, while extra toppings (mostly Y100) include corn, bamboo shoots, coriander, garlic shoots and tofu.
Tantanmen is a direct descendant of Chinese dandanmein. This dish of Sichuan origin is spicy, and a traditional bowl will have plenty of chili oil, Sichuan peppercorn, and minced pork. You can find tantanmen at many Chinese restaurants in Japan, but for the best bowls, you have to go to shops that specialize in the dish. Tantanmen is a direct descendant of Chinese dandanmein. This dish of Sichuan origin is spicy, and a traditional bowl will have plenty of chili oil, Sichuan peppercorn, and minced pork. You can find tantanmen at many Chinese restaurants in Japan, but for the best bowls, you have to go to shops that specialize in the dish.
Lashohan is one of those shops. They serve nothing but tantanmen, though they have a few varieties. The Masamune Tantanmen (¥850) is a classic soupless style, but for fans of the bitter-hot Sichuan peppercorn, go for the Premium Masamune Tantanmen (¥1000). It is full of spice, peppers, and flavored oils, though a bit of an overload for the uninitiated.
If you want tantanmen with soup, they offer a few varieties. The menu is easy to understand, with plenty of photos of the bowls. [Show more] [Show less] Kanda Nishikicho 1-4-8. Open 11am-3pm (Sat -2pm), 5:30-8pm. Closed Sundays.
Wiz (Awajicho - Beer bar). 6206-8805
Thirty-one taps of craft beer are ready to pour here - both top-grade Japanese brews and solid US and European imports. The food menu ranges from simple tapas-style dishes like salmon carpaccio to original versions of Tex-Mex fare like tacos and nachos.
Carp (Kanda - Okonomiyaki). 5296-0080
Named after Hiroshima's baseball team, this brightly lit, old-fashioned shop serves Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki all day long. You can choose from ramen ("soba") or udon noodles, with a few optional toppings like garlic cloves, squid, shrimp, cheese and corn, all displayed on hand-written menus on the wall. Named after Hiroshima's baseball team, this brightly lit, old-fashioned shop serves Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki all day long. You can choose from ramen ("soba") or udon noodles, with a few optional toppings like garlic cloves, squid, shrimp, cheese and corn, all displayed on hand-written menus on the wall.
The okonomiyaki here is constructed with precision, with distinct layers of egg (a bit thicker than average), noodles, bacon and other fillings, then a good volume of shredded cabbage on top of a sturdy, chewy base. Budget around ¥1000-1500 for food. [Show more] [Show less] Kanda Kajicho 3-5. Open 11am-9:30pm (LO; Sat -8pm). Closed Sundays, Mondays.
The second taproom from Nagano Prefecture's Yo-Ho Brewing, this Kanda branch offers a more ambitious food menu as well as a dozen of the brewery's beers on draft, including a few hand-pumped real ales. Excellent roast Date chicken, an heirloom breed from Fukushima Prefecture, is the specialty of the house and it's well worth a try. With beautifully crisp skin and moist meat, it comes in whole, half and quarter bird sizes.
You'll find spicy ramen on many shop's menus. This usually means they take their normal bowl, throw in some chili peppers, and call it a day. Many of these bowls are just hot, with very little in terms of complexity. Only a few shops really focus on balancing spice with other flavors to create an amazing bowl of ramen. Kikanbo goes beyond the call of duty with their spicy miso ramen. You'll find spicy ramen on many shop's menus. This usually means they take their normal bowl, throw in some chili peppers, and call it a day. Many of these bowls are just hot, with very little in terms of complexity. Only a few shops really focus on balancing spice with other flavors to create an amazing bowl of ramen. Kikanbo goes beyond the call of duty with their spicy miso ramen.
The bowl of karashibi ramen (¥800) comes with two choices: how much hot spice, and how much numbing spice. The shop's hot spice should be approached with caution. Made with a blend of spices from around the world, the regular level is probably the best to start with. Higher levels should only be attempted by true spice fans. Kikanbo is heavy on the sansho, Chinese numbing peppercorn. This second spice blend is bitter and numbing. For first timers, when asked about the spice intensity they prefer, a simple futsu futsu - regular for both - is a good idea.
All that spice sits atop a miso soup, blended with house-made sansho oil and a heavy soup. Fans of stewed pork might consider getting the extra pork topping (¥200) for a large slab of stewed pork belly that melts into the bowl. [Show more] [Show less] Kajicho 2-10-10. Open 11am-4, 5:30-9pm. Closed Sundays.
The off-the shelf snack-bar decor here is perked up by a cozy counter bar with five seats and twelve taps dispensing some of Japan's best microbrew beers. The small menu includes a few good chicken dishes, including raw chicken with pungent wasabi, plus the usual sausages, potatoes, etc. One of the oldest Japanese microbrew bars, Kura Kura was located in Shimo-Kitazawa for ten years before their move to Kanda. No smoking.
Kajicho 1-4-6, Tokyo Kanda Bldg. 3F. Open 5-11:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Excellent Chicago-style deep-dish pizza is served here, and the fifteen taps in the cozy ground-floor bar area dispense a good selection of craft beers from Japan and the US.
Tucano's (Akihabara - Brazilian). 5295-2611
This very informal counter bar is billed as a galetteria - a Brazilian-style charcoal-grilled chicken specialist - but the one-pound beef rump steak and the 600g "gigasteak" seem to be just as popular with the seriously carnivorous customer base here.
This tiny counter shop inside Akihabara Atre has assembled five famous Japanese curry shops from this curry-strong neighborhood - mini-branches of Kyoeido, Ethiopia, Delhi, Topca and Hongo Petit Feu. For Y2500 you can try a sampling of curries from all five shops, or you can order individual curries for around Y1000 each; other combination sets are also available.
Yumeya (Asakusa - Curry). 3841-1681
This rather unpretentious shop may not win any awards for their decor, but they serve up very good Indo-style Japanese curries and credible naans. A curry set with rice or naan (and Japanese curry-shop pickles) will run around Y1100; Y200 extra to super-size your curry portion.
This tiny, nine-seat counter shop just may serve the best gyukatsu in Tokyo. The meat is beautifully marbled, encased in a thin, softly crunchy coating and quite tasty with just a bit of grated rock salt. Do try the onion sauce though - this is also one of the best in town, assertively pungent with a bit of kick to it. This tiny, nine-seat counter shop just may serve the best gyukatsu in Tokyo. The meat is beautifully marbled, encased in a thin, softly crunchy coating and quite tasty with just a bit of grated rock salt. Do try the onion sauce though - this is also one of the best in town, assertively pungent with a bit of kick to it.
The spicy pickles are outstanding; my only complaint was that there weren't more of them. The teishoku set with a double order of meat (260g; ¥1900) is recommended, although they also sell triple and quadruple meat options. Grated yam is an extra ¥100 if you like that sort of thing. Menus are in English and Korean, and there's a detailed instruction sheet on how to eat. [Show more] [Show less] Zanmai (Asakusa - Sushi). 5826-1375
Good value for money and a wide selection of fish at this convenient 24-hour branch of the famous Tsukiji-based sushi shop.
Five British-style ales on tap, all brewed on premises at this small brewpub. Prices are Y800 for pints and Y500 for half-pints. Food includes shepherd's pie, meat pies and beef stew. Open from noon on weekends.
Run by a large and diverse Asian-cuisine restaurant group, Tiger is devoted solely to gyoza dumplings, both fried and boiled. The signature dish is the extra-large Banana Gyoza, so named for its elongated shape. These have a voluminous pork filling that's wrapped in a thick, chewy, lightly charred casing. Run by a large and diverse Asian-cuisine restaurant group, Tiger is devoted solely to gyoza dumplings, both fried and boiled. The signature dish is the extra-large Banana Gyoza, so named for its elongated shape. These have a voluminous pork filling that's wrapped in a thick, chewy, lightly charred casing.
Also worth checking out are the boiled dumplings (sui-gyoza), filled with an interesting mix of pork and chopped greens and wrapped in a green-colored hand-made casing. Dumpings are served a la carte or as part of a set meal with rice, soup and pickles; budget around ¥1000 for a meal. [Show more] [Show less] Five of the most popular Japanese curry shops in Tokyo's Kanda area have gotten together to create this casual shop where you can try their curries individually or in various combinations. A set of all five curries is priced at Y2600.
This gorgeous cafe, created by Tokyo design studio Wonderwall, has an open kitchen where you can watch chocolates being made. Hot chocolates are served in the cafe section, and the take-out counter serves up chocolate pastries to go.
This very popular shop is known for their tsukemen, served with a thick, richly flavored dipping sauce made with pork, seafood and vegetables. Prepare to wait on line during busy times.
A tourist-friendly outlet of the popular upscale French wine-bar chain. Prix-fixe lunches are priced Y2,800-Y9,800, dinners Y6,500-Y11,000.
Although it looks like an old-fashioned izakaya inside, Bakushuan serves a modern selection of ten Japanese and US craft beers on tap in addition to its very respectable sake list. The food menu is well above average for a beer bar, featuring sake-friendly nibbles and oysters prepared in various ways.
The master at Tanaka commutes in to this shop every day from the far side of Chiba, about two hours away. He is a surfer, and that part of Japan has some nice waves in the morning. That part of Japan is also famous for seafood, and the bowl at Tanaka reflects this. The master at Tanaka commutes in to this shop every day from the far side of Chiba, about two hours away. He is a surfer, and that part of Japan has some nice waves in the morning. That part of Japan is also famous for seafood, and the bowl at Tanaka reflects this.
Go for the Aji Nibo Soba (¥750). Aji, horse mackerel, and niboshi (dried sardines) are combined with plenty of Japanese konbu seaweed to make a thick, umami-rich bowl that has garnered a lot of attention since the shop opened in 2013.
Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fridays have special menu items that are worth checking out. A spicy bowl on Tuesday, a wine-steamed clam bowl on Wednesday, and a meatier version of their normal bowl on Friday. [Show more] [Show less] Higashi-Ikebukuro 2-19-2. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (Sat 11-3). Closed Sundays.
Donaiya (Otsuka - Takoyaki). 3984-5115
The takoyaki here embodies a dramatic contrast of textures - a firm and slightly chewy outer shell surrounding an interior that's squishy and gooey, ready to come gushing out when prodded with chopsticks. The octopus, when you can find a piece, is remarkably soft and tender. Mentaiko (codfish roe) mayonnaise sauce is an appealingly spicy topping, and worth the ¥50 extra; other options include tart ponzu sauce, dashi, soy sauce and plain salt. The takoyaki here embodies a dramatic contrast of textures - a firm and slightly chewy outer shell surrounding an interior that's squishy and gooey, ready to come gushing out when prodded with chopsticks. The octopus, when you can find a piece, is remarkably soft and tender. Mentaiko (codfish roe) mayonnaise sauce is an appealingly spicy topping, and worth the ¥50 extra; other options include tart ponzu sauce, dashi, soy sauce and plain salt.
There are eight takoyaki variations in all, starting at ¥450 for a plate of six, or you can spring for the ¥980 twelve-piece platter which lets you try four different toppings. The shop also serves yakisoba and several types of udon noodles as well as beer and cheap cocktails (from ¥320).
Located inside the ground-floor food hall of the Atre mall in Otsuka station, Donaiya has twelve seats and also does take-out service. As usual for Tokyo takoyaki shops, the main branch is located in Osaka. [Show more] [Show less] 
Souten stands out from the crowd thanks to the high quality of their birds, the creativity of their side dishes and their excellent selection of craft sake. Ordering one of the seasonal set menus is a good strategy here - they change every month, and feature game birds when available. During one mid-autumn visit I enjoyed a delicious confit of tiny quail legs, tender guinea fowl, and skewers of fatty wild duck over the course of the evening. Souten stands out from the crowd thanks to the high quality of their birds, the creativity of their side dishes and their excellent selection of craft sake. Ordering one of the seasonal set menus is a good strategy here - they change every month, and feature game birds when available. During one mid-autumn visit I enjoyed a delicious confit of tiny quail legs, tender guinea fowl, and skewers of fatty wild duck over the course of the evening.
Richly flavored appetizers like blue cheese and chicken-liver pate with raisin bread and smoked chicken will start a meal off in high gear. From the regular, year-round menu, recommendations include the moist and beautifully seasoned tsukune (chicken meatballs), which are crunchier than average thanks to an ample helping of ground cartilage in the recipe. Chicken wings are grilled perfectly, passing the crispness test without a hint of dryness.
Almost everything here is served shio-style (salted) rather than with sauce, but one exception is the liver - it's prepared semi-raw, and is extremely tender, with a sweetish sauce that complements the flavor. (There's also raw chicken sashimi on the menu.) Chicken courses are broken up by some nice side dishes, such as a very original chawan mushi that incorporates mozzarella and tiny tomatoes alongside the more traditional chicken, shiitake mushrooms and gingko nuts, to suprisingly good effect.
The sake selection includes several varieties of Souten's own custom-label Kozaemon sake from Gifu, plus another two dozen well-selected brands from small breweries around the country. Budget around ¥6000-7000 for dinner with drinks, and bring cash; they don't take credit cards. [Show more] [Show less] 
Tsuta (Sugamo - Ramen). 3943-1007
Tsuta, near Sugamo Station on the northern side of the Yamanote train line, can be a bit of a hassle to get to. They are only open for lunch, and often have a huge line. Expect a wait of twenty or thirty minutes. But if you were going to choose just one line to wait in, Tsuta wouldn't be a bad decision. Tsuta, near Sugamo Station on the northern side of the Yamanote train line, can be a bit of a hassle to get to. They are only open for lunch, and often have a huge line. Expect a wait of twenty or thirty minutes. But if you were going to choose just one line to wait in, Tsuta wouldn't be a bad decision.
The shop serves up probably the most refined bowl of ramen in Japan. Choice ingredients, like free range chickens from Akita and a blend of different small-batch soy sauces, are topped with a touch of truffle oil, a truly luxurious combination. Go for the shoyu bowl with the egg (Ajitama shoyu soba ¥950), and drink every last drop of the soup. [Show more] [Show less] 
This tiny ramen shop down a small shopping street was a hand-me-down to the current owner. Kubokawa-san, whose nickname is Kabo-chan, was a well repected ramen hunter before he took over this ramen and kakigori shop. Yes, this is one of those ramen shops that serves Japanese-style shaved ice. This tiny ramen shop down a small shopping street was a hand-me-down to the current owner. Kubokawa-san, whose nickname is Kabo-chan, was a well repected ramen hunter before he took over this ramen and kakigori shop. Yes, this is one of those ramen shops that serves Japanese-style shaved ice.
The Shimofuri chukasoba (¥750), named after the small shopping street, is a simple, hearty bowl of shoyu ramen. The previous shop's master was also known for his shoyu ramen, and the training and influence are shown. But in recent years, Kabochan has become quite famous for his spiced miso ramen (R15 Otona no Spicy Miso Chuka Soba ¥850). Spices that seem at home in Indian cooking are blended with a rich miso base. [Show more] [Show less] Beer++ (Kita-ku - Brewpub). 5948-5657
This small local brewpub serves a few types of ale on tap and a guest cider, while the food menu features organic vegetables grown on the rooftop. There's a standing bar on the ground floor and tables in the spacious second-floor dining room.
Kita-ku, Kamijujo 2-7-13. Open 5-10:30pm (LO; Sat 3-9:30). Closed Sun, Mon.
Juhachiban set themselves apart from the other shops in Daiba's takoyaki theme park with their pleasantly crunchy shell, made by using harder-than-average tenkasu (bits of tempura-fried batter) in the takoyaki batter. Among the variations here is a simple salt and toasted nori version that really brings out the flavor of the octopus filling. Juhachiban set themselves apart from the other shops in Daiba's takoyaki theme park with their pleasantly crunchy shell, made by using harder-than-average tenkasu (bits of tempura-fried batter) in the takoyaki batter. Among the variations here is a simple salt and toasted nori version that really brings out the flavor of the octopus filling.
The regular version is also quite nice, with a slightly tart sauce. Sampler sets of two, three and four types of takoyaki are available; a three-part assortment is ¥840. English menus are provided. [Show more] [Show less] Kukuru (Daiba - Takoyaki). 3599-6017
My favorite of the shops inside the Takoyaki Museum mini-theme park, Kukuru offers three takoyaki variations - regular, cheese, and akashiyaki. The regular version has nicely balanced flavors and tasty octopus bits, while the omelette base of the akashiyaki is pleasantly runny and soft. A set of four regular and four akashiyaki is ¥630, and a sampler of all three types is ¥980. An English menu is available.
Inside Glien Passage, the theme-park-extravaganza restaurant complex in Aquacity, Gompachi offers a straight-ahead robatayaki menu - yakitori, grilled fish, assorted side dishes and a handful of soba variations to round things out.
Late-night pastas and Italian wines.
Assorted southeast Asian dishes and a large bar.
Zest (Daiba - Tex-Mex). 3599-4803
Dependable late-night Tex-Mex food and fun decor.
Sizzler (Daiba - American). 3599-4534
The all-you-can-eat salad bar is surprisingly varied, and still one of the better ones in town.
This popular Osaka-based shop lets you cook your own kushiage skewers in a deep-fryer right at your table. It's all you can eat, including various side dishes, and a big variety of skewered tidbits. The dessert section features a chocolate fountain. Y2500 per person, with a 90-minute limit, or Y1500 at lunchtime (served until 3:30pm).
Charcoal-grilled heirloom-breed chicken and game birds are the specialty here, along with oyako-donburi and chicken-based ramen. There's also a good selection of sake and shochu to wash it down. Lunch is served until 4pm.
The pizza makers here trained in Naples, and they use a wood-burning pizza oven. Some thirty varieties of fantastic thin-crusted pizzas are ready to eat in or take out.
The very artsy cafe includes a gallery space in back where you can catch the latest exhibit while enjoying coffee or cocktails; there's also window seating up front, a few outdoor tables, and a movie theater in the basement. Drinks include Chinese teas, hot cocktails (rum and apple, coffee and cointreau), and eight Belgian beers by the bottle. The food menu is limited to curry rice and a smattering of small deli items.
Saikoro (Nakano - Ramen). 6304-8902
The north side of Nakano is famed for Nakano Broadway, a center of otaku culture and interesting traditional restaurants. But on the often ignored south side, there is a wonderful ramen shop worth a visit. Saikoro is part of the Jiraigen Syndicate, a noodle group that makes simple, honest Tokyo ramen in cool, stylish shops. Look for the shop with a DJ booth and hanging saikoro (dice) in the window. The north side of Nakano is famed for Nakano Broadway, a center of otaku culture and interesting traditional restaurants. But on the often ignored south side, there is a wonderful ramen shop worth a visit. Saikoro is part of the Jiraigen Syndicate, a noodle group that makes simple, honest Tokyo ramen in cool, stylish shops. Look for the shop with a DJ booth and hanging saikoro (dice) in the window.
The ticket machine here is huge, but head to the upper row and look for the one with the niku (¥730). Niku means meat, and you'll get a bowl topped with slices of perfectly roasted chashu pork. The soup is a lighter shoyu base hit with a bit of dried fish. Add to that handmade noodles (the noodle factory is upstairs), and you have one of the best simple bowls in Tokyo. [Show more] [Show less] Known for their good food, lively atmosphere and reasonably priced craft brews, the Craft Beer Market chain has been growing quickly, and this fifth branch is their first foray into a residential neighborhood rather than an after-work business district. Similar to the downtown branches, CBM Koenji pours a well-chosen lineup of mostly Japanese craft brews from its thirty taps, along with a few ordinary lagers and wine by the glass for those who don't yet fully enjoy the pleasures of craft beer.
First-class soba -- they also had a very popular branch in New York City's Soho neighborhood.
Mu-hung (Nishi-Ogikubo - Singaporean). 3394-9191
A comfortable smoke-free cafe that serves good Singapore-style chicken rice, although unfortunately they only serve it with fragrant jasmine rice on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month; you get regular rice the rest of the time. Other dishes include very good Malaysian curries with excellent fried roti (bread), and other Malaysian/Singaporean specialties.
At first, pineapple ramen sounds strange, maybe even downright awful. But imagine some other things that have been matched with pineapples. Pineapple and a sweet terriyaki sauce make a great burger topping. Pineapple glaze is amazing on ham and pork chops. And thousands of Hawaiian-style pizzas are ordered every day. Does it work with ramen? You bet. At first, pineapple ramen sounds strange, maybe even downright awful. But imagine some other things that have been matched with pineapples. Pineapple and a sweet terriyaki sauce make a great burger topping. Pineapple glaze is amazing on ham and pork chops. And thousands of Hawaiian-style pizzas are ordered every day. Does it work with ramen? You bet.
Papapapapine's interior is decorated from top to bottom with pineapples. Go for the shoyu with all the toppings (¥920). You'll get extra pork, extra chopped pineapple, and an egg that has been marinated in, you guessed it, pineapple juice. The soup isn't too sweet, just enough to match the saltiness of the soy sauce.
Papapapa Pine also has occasional limited bowls that use other fruit. Figs, bananas, and strawberries have all made their was into bowls at Papapapa Pine. [Show more] [Show less] Good breads, cakes and vegetable salads at this cute, plant-filled bakery-cafe inside the Atre shopping mall. Lunch options include a "plate of vegetables" and vegetable tarts with salad as well as burgers. They also have branches in London and Paris. Open from 9am on weekends.
Thick tonkotsu ramen is nothing new. You'll find many shops all over the country serving bowls of it. But if you want the thickest, most intense bowl there is, Muteppo is the place to go. The soup is 100% pork bones, boiled for many, many hours. Just watching them stir the giant vats of soup is reason enough to come to this shop. Thick tonkotsu ramen is nothing new. You'll find many shops all over the country serving bowls of it. But if you want the thickest, most intense bowl there is, Muteppo is the place to go. The soup is 100% pork bones, boiled for many, many hours. Just watching them stir the giant vats of soup is reason enough to come to this shop.
The tonkotsu ramen (¥780) is good, but do yourself a favor and get the chashumen (¥1030). It's covered with thinly sliced, tender pieces of pork that seem to melt into the soup. In typical tonkotsu fashion, you can specify the level of a few things in your bowl. If asked, just say futsu, it will get you noodles cooked the regular way, the regular thickness of the soup, and a regular serving of green onions on top. If you finish your noodles and want some more, an order of kaedama (¥150) will get you what you want.
Located a bit north of Numabukuro station on the Seibu Shinjuku line. [Show more] [Show less] Lodi (Nakano-Sakaue - Bar). 050-1141-6227
Located above Nakano-Sakaue subway station, Lodi serves both domestic microbrew beers (with a rotating selection of five on tap), and American wines (with six by the glass). At lunchtime (weekdays only) they serve gourmet coffee.
Nakano-ku, Chuo 1-38-1. Open 11:45am-2:30, 6pm-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Hangover (Nakano-Sakaue - Beer bar). 090-3721-6982
"Craft beer, craft food" is the raison d'etre of this ambitious beer bar, and they do an excellent job on both counts. There's a well-chosen selection of craft beers from the US and Japan on tap, and they also stock a good number of bottles from breweries like Lagunitas, Coronado and Southern Tier.
Minatoya (Sasazuka - Takoyaki). 6383-3120
This charming neighborhood shop serves takoyaki, akashiyaki, octopus-filled okonomiyaki pancakes, and kakigori shaved-ice desserts. The takoyaki is a fairly orthodox version, studded with big, tasty chunks of octopus in a gooey filling. It's served on its own or in a snack called takosen, which is two takoyaki balls in a crunchy shrimp-cracker sandwich. This charming neighborhood shop serves takoyaki, akashiyaki, octopus-filled okonomiyaki pancakes, and kakigori shaved-ice desserts. The takoyaki is a fairly orthodox version, studded with big, tasty chunks of octopus in a gooey filling. It's served on its own or in a snack called takosen, which is two takoyaki balls in a crunchy shrimp-cracker sandwich.
The egg-based akashiyaki dumplings come plain or in a version that incorporates fresh-tasting leek alongside the octopus. During the day, plump kakigori shaved-ice balls seem to be the biggest draw here. These come in interesting variations like avocado-milk and strawberry-pistachio, with an ever-changing roster of flavors.
Akashiyaki with leek is ¥690 for eight pieces, okonomiyaki with cabbage is ¥450, and a takosen snack is ¥180. [Show more] [Show less] 
Hototogisu is a little hard to find. It's located in a suburb a few stations west of Shinjuku, down a local shopping street, and in a nondescript alleyway. They usually have a line, which is the only indication of anything existing there. But therein lies the beauty of ramen. Hototogisu could make a killing with a bigger shop in a busier part of town, but they choose to stay, despite the countless awards and accolades. Hototogisu is a little hard to find. It's located in a suburb a few stations west of Shinjuku, down a local shopping street, and in a nondescript alleyway. They usually have a line, which is the only indication of anything existing there. But therein lies the beauty of ramen. Hototogisu could make a killing with a bigger shop in a busier part of town, but they choose to stay, despite the countless awards and accolades.
Hototogisu blends a clear, meaty soup with a soup made from Japanese clams. The flavors are full of umami, and very refreshing. But what gives them their edge is the excellent flavoring of the toppings. The shoyu ramen (¥800) and the shio ramen (¥850) are both excellent and quite different. Though they use the same base soup, the shoyu is accented with homemade porcini mushroom flakes and oil, while the shio ramen is paired with truffle oil. Both of these bowls have a deep earthy taste that has most patrons drinking every last drop.
On Sundays they're open only at lunchtime. [Show more] [Show less] Hatagaya 2-47-12. Open 11:30am-3, 6:30-10pm. Closed Thu; Fri; Sun eve.
Hashiya (Yoyogi-Koen - Yoshoku). 3466-1576
This Japanese-spaghetti pioneer has been offering their unique take on pasta since the 1950s, with over sixty varieties on the menu. One of the more popular options features sea urchin, squid and cod roe, served in a sweet, buttery sauce flavored with soy sauce and topped with strips of nori seaweed. This Japanese-spaghetti pioneer has been offering their unique take on pasta since the 1950s, with over sixty varieties on the menu. One of the more popular options features sea urchin, squid and cod roe, served in a sweet, buttery sauce flavored with soy sauce and topped with strips of nori seaweed.
Another crowd favorite is the shrimp and kinoko mushroom spaghetti, with big, flavorful shrimp in a sweet-tasting buttery sauce. They also offer a big selection of asari clam pastas served with an optional garlic sauce, and a dozen or so cod-roe variations. The noodles are pleasantly firm and chewy, and overall the flavors are well-balanced without being overpowering.
The old-fashioned dining room consists of a few tables plus a big counter area wrapping around the open kitchen. Budget around ¥1200-1500 for most pastas. On Wednesdays they serve lunch only, and close at 3pm. [Show more] [Show less] A tiny cafe with a limited menu of four Bhutanese stews with rice, including a fiery version of ema datshi, a cheese and chili stew that's Bhutan's national dish. The other stews (pork and daikon, chicken, potato-cheese) are milder, and you can opt for a two-stew combo plate for Y900. There are also a few salads, fried tofu, and a tasty "Indian snack mix" with chopped vegetables and Masala spice. The drinks menu offers Edelpils beer on tap, German and Chilean wines, and Bhutanese rum, whisky, and teas. Classical music plays in the background, and the cafe is entirely non-smoking, just like Bhutan itself.
Moroccan cuisine.
Kitazawa 3-1-15, Coop Inage. Open 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Senrigan (Higashi-Kitazawa - Ramen). 3481-5773
There is a ramen shop in Japan called Jiro (not to be confused with the famous sushi shop of a similar name). Jiro features thick, wheaty noodles in a mega-porky soup. Add to that copious amounts of garlic, top with a mountain of bean sprouts, drizzle the whole thing with pork back fat, and you have the base of a bowl of Jiro ramen. There are other factors, but essentially this is a bowl that is tough to finish, and you'll smell like it for the next twelve hours. There is a ramen shop in Japan called Jiro (not to be confused with the famous sushi shop of a similar name). Jiro features thick, wheaty noodles in a mega-porky soup. Add to that copious amounts of garlic, top with a mountain of bean sprouts, drizzle the whole thing with pork back fat, and you have the base of a bowl of Jiro ramen. There are other factors, but essentially this is a bowl that is tough to finish, and you'll smell like it for the next twelve hours.
Jiro has spawned many Jiro-style shops. One of the best is Senrigan. The soup is intense, but drinkable. The chashu is thick-cut, but tender. The toppings are plentiful, with raw garlic, back fat, spicy crisped rice, and the standard bean sprout pile all coming into play. Don't go for anything more than the normal ramen (¥730) here. Larger sizes of noodles or bowls with more pork are on the menu, but should only be attempted by a seasoned Jiro fan.
It should be noted that at any Jiro-style shop, you will be asked "Ninniku hairimasu ka?" Basically, "You want garlic in that?" This is code for you to tell them how much of each topping you want. Many shops will get upset if you don't have an answer, so just remember to say "futsu." This will get you regular amounts of all the toppings, the best choice for a first timer. [Show more] [Show less] La Boheme (Ikejiri-Ohashi - Italian). 5486-3700
Inexpensive, competently prepared pastas and other dishes that are very popular with a young, local crowd.
Giang's (Futago-tamagawa - Vietnamese). 3700-2475
A gem of a restaurant, run by a Vietnamese family, with authentic food and reasonable prices. There's also a good stock of Vietnamese beer and French wines.
N_1155 (Naka-Meguro - Mediterranean). 3760-1001
Fresh organic produce is the pride of this casual, stylish dining bar. The simple menu complements the nice selection of organic and biodynamic wines. Bruschetta, baby shrimp and tomatoes sauteed in garlic oil, and other tapas-style dishes are available on the first floor, while more substantial fare such as Australian lamb and veal can be ordered upstairs, with full-course dinners from Y2800. The smoke-free environment is a plus.
While its office-building setting and generic wood-paneled-den decor aren't especially inviting, this branch of the Taproom attracts an audience of foreign and Japanese beer lovers with its excellent microbrews. There are usually around twenty varieties on tap from parent company's Baird Brewery in Shizuoka, along with two or three guest beers from US breweries. The food menu features "New Haven-style pizzas" and salads. Open from noon on weekends.
Ra.a.g.f (Jiyugaoka - Rabbit cafe). 3725-2240
The larger of the two branches of this popular rabbit cafe, Ra.a.g.f Jiyugaoka has around two dozen rabbits of various breeds for visitors to play with and feed. Seating is on cushions on the floor, at tiny tables in two separate play areas. Usually two to four rabbits are running around loose at any given time, and you can choose the rabbits you want to play with, although some might be "on a break" and therefore not available.
An interesting assortment of Asian dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and China are served all day and night (until 5am) at this branch of the casual "ethnic-style" izakaya chain.
Located a bit off the beaten track, this intimate 28-seat restaurant is a serious gourmet destination, serving high-level cuisine at down-to-earth prices. Owner-chef George Sumura is a veteran of the Raffles Hotel in Singapore and a two-star restaurant in Brussels, and his menu is especially strong in game dishes.
Monsoon Cafe (Minami-Funabashi - Misc. Southeast Asian). 047-421-7311
This ethnic-style izakaya chain serves Asian-inspired dishes from Thailand, China, Vietnam and Indonesia.
Katsukura (Kawasaki - Tonkatsu). 044-874-8413
Besides the usual tonkatsu, Katsukura offers variations like deep-fried shrimp and scallops, yuba (tofu skin) croquettes), and nice side dishes like chawanmushi, tofu salad and kakuni stewed pork. The original shop is in Kyoto. Budget around Y1600 for food.
Oyama (Kawasaki - Ramen). 044-230-1139
This well-regarded shop in the Ramen Symphony complex is known for their shrimp ramen.
The prix-fixe menus here (Y4000, Y5800) let you mix and match from a big list of pastas, starters and main dishes while you enjoy the impressive nighttime view. Set lunches are Y2500 to Y7000.
Yet another cafe where you can bring your pet; this one also carries a full line of canine fashion and grooming items. The dog menu includes items like pate, pork and beans, and bean risotto.
Kissho (Yokohama Minato-mirai - Shabu-shabu). 045-222-5522
Shabu-shabu and kaiseki (from Y8000 at night).
An ever-changing selection of American craft beers - all from top-class breweries like Southern Tier, Coronado and Anderson Valley - is on tap at this tasting room run by beer importing company Nagano Trading. They also carry more than a hundred bottled beers, and they're all sold at retail prices.
Full Monty (Yokohama Kannai - British pub). 045-334-8787
Serving seventeen different ciders, this rather authentic British pub must have the best selection in town, if not in all of Japan. They also serve beer of course - on a recent visit the pub's eight taps included such varied fare as Caldera Vanilla Wheat and Rogue Yellow Snow IPA (both from Oregon); Brimmer Porter (from Kawasaki); Greene King Abbot Ale and Fuller's London Pride, with pints averaging Y1000.
Sparta (Yokohama Kannai - Greek). 045-253-1645
This Greek landmark has been serving hearty, home-style food since 1953 (although they moved to a new location in 2010). The bright, spacious dining area includes lots of counter seating as well as tables.
Lizards, tortoises, snakes and other reptiles - plus the odd amphibian - are the main attraction at this charming animal cafe. There's no cover charge per se, but you're expected to order a beverage or food. We tried the shop's "meat cakes," which turned out to be scones filled with Chinese-style BBQ pork (like what you'd get in a pork bun), and served with whipped cream.
Authentic American-style barbecue is the ambitious specialty at Bashamichi Taproom, along with a great selection of craft beers. Taproom's BBQ menu features spareribs, "Fat-boy" ribs, chicken, brisket and pork shoulder, prepared using Australian grass-fed beef, American pork, and domestic pork and chicken. We enjoyed them all, but the ribs were by far our favorites, especially the Fat-boy ribs. They're sold by weight, and we were given a choice of a few different sizes with various levels of marbling. The end product was just fantastic - smoky, juicy and very richly flavored.
Formerly known as Lina's, this pleasant cafe serves good French-inspired, made-to-order sandwiches, including vegetable options. Lunch specials are served until 2pm.
La Boheme (Yokohama Yamashitacho - Italian). 045-227-7123
Inexpensive pastas and Italian wines by the glass, with convenient late-night hours.
Slow Cafe (Yokohama Motomachi - Cafe). 045-651-5381
A pleasant place to grab a coffee or a late lunch or evening snack if you're exploring the Motomachi neighborhood - options include a deli platter and a nice bean-tomato curry with brown rice. There's some outdoor seating, and an inexpensive drinks menu.
Eclectic Asian cuisine, a lively atmosphere and late-night hours, from the Global Dining Group (Zest, La Boheme).
