Non Smoking Restaurants
LO : "last order"
late : Open late
S: Open Sundays
decor: Notable decor
Riedel: Wine served in Riedel glasses


Non Smoking Restaurants
Because restaurant "no smoking" sections vary in terms of effectiveness and seat availability, this directory covers only restaurants that are fully no-smoking. (Note that some of these no-smoking restaurants may allow smoking in a separate bar area.)
Flattoria (Takadanobaba - Italian). 3205-9182
Part of the Fealteria complex, this casual restaurant offers solid Italian fare, including pizzas, in an unpretentious, smoke-free dining room. Prix-fixe dinners are Y2100-5200. Weekday lunches run Y1000-3000, including several "salad lunches"; weekends are a bit fancier, from Y1500-3500.
SunTakadanobaba 1-25-30. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-9:30pm (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Shinjuku Gyoen-mae - Italian). 5366-2242
A big, spacious branch of this late-night budget Italian restaurant, open all afternoon and convenient to visitors to Shinjuku Gyoen.
SunlateShinjuku 1-1-7. (along the park, near the northeast (Okido) entrance) Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Marble Lounge (Nishi-Shinjuku - International). 3344-5111
The sumptuous Sunday brunch buffet in the Hilton Hotel lobby includes plenty of breakfast dishes, Japanese breakfast items, a special children's menu and roving clowns. Y3500 for adults, Y1750 for children. There's also a breakfast buffet every day from 6:30 to 10:30am (to 11am on weekends), and a "night owl" menu late at night.
SunlateNishi-Shinjuku 6-6-2, Hilton Hotel. Open 24 hours a day.
Twenty-one (Nishi-Shinjuku - French). 3344-5111
One of Tokyo's better hotel kitchens; there are often special degustation menus as well as a serious wine list.
SunNishi-Shinjuku 6-6-2, Hilton Hotel. Open 5:30-10pm. Closed Mondays.
Sizzler (Nishi-Shinjuku - American). 3342-5814
Still one of Tokyo's best salad bars, with plenty of options for vegetarians.
SunNishi-Shinjuku 2-1-1, Mitsui Bldg. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
!Michel Troisgros (Nishi-Shinjuku - Expensive French). 3348-1234
The first restaurant in Japan from Michelin three-star chef Michel Troisgros. Prix-fixe lunches are Y7,900-10,500; dinners are Y14,700-18,900.
SunNishi-Shinjuku 2-7-2, Hyatt Regency Tokyo 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9:30pm daily.
!Park Hyatt Delicatessen (Nishi-Shinjuku - Sandwiches/deli). 5323-3635
Perhaps the best deli counter in town, with a huge selection of cold cuts, pates, salads and ready-to-go gourmet picnic baskets. Lunches are priced from around Y1000, and breakfast is served on weekdays from 8 to 10:30am. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunNishi-Shinjuku 3-7-15, Shinjuku Park Tower 1F. Open 8am-8pm (weekends from 11am) daily.
!Bistrot d'Artemis (Yoyogi - French). 5770-7155
This bistrot branch of the highly regarded L'Artemis restaurant in Jingumae offers a more casual experience and convenient late-night hours. The kitchen covers the standards very well - excellent grilled lamb and pork confit - but they also turn out dishes we don't often see at the typical bistrot - blood sausage served with chunks of baked apple, avocado-shrimp salad, and an eye-opening red pimento creme brulee. The extensive wine list starts at around Y3000; budget Y4500-7500 for dinner. Tables are a bit snug, but there's no smoking, except in the tiny garden area out front. The restaurant is very popular with a young local crowd, so advance reservations are recommended. [See branch review]
SunlateSendagaya 4-5-11, Victoria Plaza 1F. Open 5pm-1am (LO). Closed Tuesdays.
Better Days (Harajuku north - Sandwiches/deli). 3403-7809
Good panini and other Italian-style sandwiches, desserts, coffee, tea, and wine by the glass. There's a small counter area, but business is mostly take-out. No smoking.
Sendagaya 3-15-12. Open 8:30am-midnight. Closed Sundays.
Hasegawa (Harajuku - Liquor shop). 5785-0833
A very well-stocked sake shop, plus a small stand-up bar where you can try samples in small 50ml tasting sizes. Usually there are around ten sakes open for tasting, priced Y200-400. There's also a small snack menu - prosciutto, cheese, dried mentaiko. The retail side of the shop stocks over 100 premium brands of sake, and unlike many shops that seem to specialize in those humongous isshobin bottles that won't fit in your fridge, most of the sake here is in convenient 720ml bottles or in tiny single-serving mini-bottles.
SunJingumae 4-12-4, Omotesando Hills 3F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Mist (Harajuku - Ramen). 5410-1368
In addition to their standard ramen (Y1200), Mist also offers a Y2800 prix-fixe ramen dinner (with salad, grilled pork and other dishes), and a Y5500 ramen "concept menu."
SunJingumae 4-12-4, Omotesando Hills 3F. Open 11am-11pm (LO) daily.
Poivrier (Harajuku - Retail). 5785-0341
The tiny cafe area attached to this spice shop serves spice-oriented dishes like lamb tajine and yogurt blanc mange with cardamom and lemongrass; at lunchtime there are curries and a bread and deli platter. The take-out counter handles standard and special-blend spices, cheeses, small deli items, Indian biryanis, olive oil, pasta and other assorted goods.
SunJingumae 4-12-4, Omotesando Hills 3F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Bisty's (Harajuku - Wine bar). 5771-4466
This unusual wine bar and retail shop offers more than 80 wines by the glass - mostly French, but with a good selection from elsewhere around the world. Wines come in three different tasting sizes (20ml, 50ml, 90ml), with prices averaging Y300-700 for the 50ml size. A new-fangled nitrogen dispenser system keeps the wines fresh, and automatically dispenses your selected wine when you insert a prepaid card. (Cards are sold in various denominations.) The chef here trained in France and New York, and his food menu ranges from simple small-plate dishes (in the Y500-1000 range) to full meals; at lunchtime you'll find mostly sandwiches.
SunJingumae 4-12-4, Omotesando Hills B3F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
!Kakiya Sushi (Harajuku - Sushi). 3423-1400
High-grade conveyor-belt sushi, Y120-300 per plate.
SunJingumae 1-14-27. (across from Harajuku station) Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Harajuku - Italian). 5467-5666
Inexpensive pastas.
SunlateJingumae 5-8-5. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
!Benoit (Omotesando - Mediterranean). 5468-0881
From French celeb chef Alain Ducasse, a Mediterranean restaurant covering the cuisines of Italy, Spain, North Africa and Greece. The dining room is comfortable and attractively laid out, with nice views of Aoyama-dori, Shibuya and Shinjuku. Service is professional without being stiff. The wine list has some nice choices for under Y9000, and wine by the glass is fairly reasonable. Prix-fixe dinners from Y8,000, lunches from Y4500.
SunJingumae 5-51-8, La Porte Aoyama 10F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
!!Pierre Gagnaire a Tokyo (Omotesando - Expensive French). 5466-6800
Spectacular, creative, fun French haute cuisine from the famous Michelin three-starred chef. Dinner starts at Y17,450, and the market lunch is Y7,350 (+12% service); wines cover the full range, starting around Y5000.
SunMinami-Aoyama 5-3-2, Aoyama Square Bldg 4F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm. Closed Sundays.
La Boheme (Omotesando - Italian). 5766-1666
Late-night pastas at budget prices.
SunlateKita-Aoyama 3-6-25. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Crayon House (Omotesando - Japanese/health food). 3406-6409
The basement of Crayon House has an organic vegetable shop and two separate natural-food restaurants: "Hiroba", serving Japanese food, and "Home", with French cuisine. "Hiroba" offers an interesting buffet lunch for Y1,200.
SunKita-Aoyama 3-8-15. (walk down Omotesando towards Harajuku, turn left at the Hanae Mori Building and walk one block) Open 11am-9pm (LO) daily.
Azzurra (Gaienmae - Italian). 3497-1586
Skillfully constructed fish dishes and pastas from an extensive menu that changes daily.
SunJingumae 3-38-12, Puzzle Aoyama Bldg. B1F. Open 6-11pm. Closed Tuesdays.
!Kurkku Kitchen (Jingumae 2-chome - Grill). 5414-0944
Kurkku's attractive and spacious dining room is tucked into the back of a trendy-looking design shop, and the main focus is on the wood-burning grill at the heart of the open kitchen. The menu is built around premium grilled meats but also includes hefty portions of vegetables and greens. Prix-fixe dinners of ample size start at Y5500, and they include a vegetable-centered chef's menu. A few decent wines can be found for under Y6000, but it's easy to spend more if you want to splurge. The Y2800 three-course lunch is an especially good deal.
SundecorJingumae 2-18-21, Koti Bldg 1F. Open 11:30-2, 5-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
!L'Artemis (Jingumae 2-chome - French). 5786-0220
Excellent French cooking and a substantial wine list (around 180 varieties), starting in the Y3000 range but covering all the bases. They also have an extensive and unusual selection of eaux-de-vie. Lunch starts at Y1000; three-course dinners from Y4000. [See FULL REVIEW.]
Riedel glassesJingumae 2-31-7, Villa Gloria 101. Open noon-2:30, 6-9:30pm (LO). Closed Wednesdays.
Zest (Shibuya - Tex-Mex). 5489-3332
California-style Mexican food and drinks, served in one of Tokyo's noisiest restaurants.
SunlateJinnan 1-6-8, Campari Bldg. 2F. Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Shibuya - Italian). 3477-0481
Reliable pastas and other Italian dishes, with convenient late-night hours.
SunlateJinnan 1-6-8, Campari Bldg. 3F. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Shibuya - World cuisine). 5489-1611
From the owners of the Zest Mexican chain, a lively, fun place serving Southeast Asian dishes. The food is tasty (although not extremely authentic), there's a big bar, and service is friendly and competent.
SunlateJinnan 1-6-8, Campari Bldg. 4F. Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
La Boheme Qualita (Shibuya - Italian). 5728-6388
This newest venture from the popular budget Italian chain promises to serve "an Italian mama's home-cooked meals."
SunlateUdagawacho 20-11, Shibuya Mitsuba Bldg B1/B2F. (across from HMV, between Seibu A and B) Open 11:30am-2am daily.
Gompachi (Shibuya - Japanese). 5784-2011
Japanese cuisine and a late-night sushi bar.
SunlateMaruyamacho 3-6, E Space Tower 14F. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Coucagno (Shibuya - Expensive French). 3476-3000
Fancy French food with a skyscraper view; prix-fixe dinners from Y8000, with lots of good wines in the Y10,000-15,000 range. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunSakuragaokacho 26-1, Cerulean Tower Hotel 40F. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10pm (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Ebisu - Italian). 5475-5800
Late-night pastas.
SunlateHiroo 1-3-1. (on the left side of Meiji-dori going towards Hiroo) Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Zest (Ebisu - Tex-Mex). 5475-6291
A huge, bustling branch of this popular Tex-Mex chain. The open-air rooftop seating can be very pleasant when the weather is warm.
SunlateEbisu 1-22-1. Open 11:30-5am daily.
Joel Robuchon, Restaurant (Ebisu - Expensive French). 5424-1347
Deluxe-level cooking and service in an elaborate castle-like setting. At dinnertime there's a rather extravagant 18-course tasting menu for Y35,000 per person (plus 12% service charge). Downstairs you'll find "La Table de Joel Robuchon" (03-5424-1338) - a more casual, convivial restaurant with inventive cuisine and a very reasonable wine list; prix-fixe lunch from Y2800 and dinner from Y5000.
SunRiedel glassesMeguro-ku, Mita 1-13-1, Yebisu Garden Place. Open 11:30am-1:30, 6-8:30pm (LO) daily.
Yebisu (Westin Hotel) (Ebisu - Teppanyaki). 5423-7790
One of the most highly rated teppanyaki restaurants in town, Yebisu also boasts a nice 22nd-floor view and convenient English menus. Full-course dinners with premium domestic beef, seasonal seafood and vegetables run Y15,000-25,000 and lunch is Y4,000-10,000. The menu often includes seafood-only dinners as well as beef-centered ones.
SunMeguro-ku, Mita 1-4-1, Westin Hotel 22F. Open 11:30am-3, 5:30-10pm daily.
!!Cardenas Charcoal Grill (Ebisu - Grill). 5428-0779
Smart, cutting-edge California-influenced cuisine, with an emphasis on grilled items and sashimi. The mostly California wine list is well assembled and comfortably priced. Tables are adequately separated, and the large two-story space, which is reached by crossing the entrance moat, is unusually luxurious for Tokyo. Dinner with drinks will probably start at around Y6000 per person. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunlatedecorRiedel glassesEbisu-Nishi 1-12-14. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30pm-2am (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Daikanyama - Italian). 3476-4799
Budget-priced pastas and other Italian fare.
SunlateDaikanyamacho 16-2. Open 11:30-5am daily.
Tableaux (Daikanyama - International). 5489-2201
Under the same management as Zest and La Boheme, this is one of their two high-ticket California-style restaurants (along with Stellato). There's also a separate bar and cigar-smoking room (with a very effective ventilation system, fortunately).
SunRiedel glassesSarugakucho 11-6, Sunroser Daikanyama Bldg, B1F. Open 5:30-11pm (LO) daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Daikanyama - World cuisine). 5489-3789
A branch of the Nishi-Azabu and Shibuya Monsoon Cafes, with eclectic Asian cuisine.
SunlateHachiyamacho 15-4. Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Nishi-Azabu - World cuisine). 3400-7200
Amusing "ethnic" dishes from Southeast Asia and a lively, fun atmosphere.
SunlateMinami-Aoyama 7-3-1. (on Roppongi-dori and Komazawa-dori) Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Nisseki-dori) (Nishi-Azabu - Italian). 3499-3377
A very small branch of this Tokyo chain; a good place to stop for late-night drinks and inexpensive pastas.
SunlateMinami-Aoyama 7-11-4. (on Nisseki-dori, just off Roppongi-dori and next to Nishi-Azabu Park Towers) Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Nishi-Azabu - Italian). 3407-1363
A convenient late-night Italian standby.
SunlateNishi-Azabu 2-25-18. Open 11:30-5am daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Nishi-Azabu - World cuisine). 5467-5221
Various Asian dishes and a casual atmosphere.
SunlateNishi-Azabu 2-10-1. Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Taku (Nishi-Azabu - Sushi). 5774-4372
It's unusual to find high-quality sushi like this outside Ginza, but here it's presented in a modern dining room with late-night hours. They also serve French wines as an alternative to sake; wines from Y1000/ glass or Y10,000-Y150,000/ bottle. Budget around Y18,000 for dinner.
lateRiedel glassesNishi-Azabu 2-11-5. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sundays.
Zest (Nishi-Azabu - Tex-Mex). 3400-2235
Well-prepared, casual California-Mexican dishes and a variety of ever-popular frozen margaritas.
SunlateNishi-Azabu 2-13-15. Open 11:30-5am daily.
Gompachi (Nishi-Azabu - Japanese). 5771-0170
Good sushi and other straight-ahead Japanese fare from the late-night Global Dining group (La Boheme, Zest, etc.). The massive, multi-story space is always buzzing with activity, and sometimes seems to be the center of an international social scene in Tokyo.
SunlatedecorNishi-Azabu 1-13-11. Open 11:30am-5am (sushi bar to 1am) daily.
La Jolla (Hiroo - Tex-Mex). 3442-1865
Run-of-the-mill "Mexican"-flavored American food. Often crowded, and popular with American families. No smoking.
SunHiroo 5-16-3, Koyasu Bldg. 2F. Open 11:30am-2, 5-11pm (LO 10pm) daily.
La Boheme (Shiroganedai - Italian). 3442-4488
One of the few late-night spots in the neighborhood; pizzas and pastas in a multi-level, palatial setting.
SunlateShiroganedai 4-19-17. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Stellato (Shiroganedai - International). 3442-5588
Upscale California dining in a fun, thirties-movie-palace setting, from the owners of the Zest-La Boheme chain. The mainly New World wine list is well assembled, and dinner with wine generally runs in the Y7,000-Y10,000 range.
SundecorRiedel glassesShiroganedai 4-19-17. Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Grand Central Oyster Bar (Shinagawa - American). 6717-0932
Although they're not our favorite oyster bar in Tokyo, Grand Central does offer an impressively big selection of oysters from all over. There's also a large, varied wine list (heavy on the whites, naturally), with lots of choices by the glass, in case you feel like just dropping in for a drink at the bar.
SunKonan 2-18-1, Atre Shinagawa 4F. Open 11am-11pm (LO) daily.
Shusaron (Shinagawa - Bar). 5449-4455
This small but stylish bar specializes in koshu (vintage sake), and they offer several different tasting sets to guide your explorations. The Y1260 set features three different types of koshu, and changes weekly. There's also a set comparing three different mature koshu (Y1890), and a set comparing 5-, 10-, and 32-year-old vintages from the same brewery (Y3150). The food menu is very simple - assorted cheeses and smoked dishes. There's a Y450 cover charge; budget around Y4000.
SunTakanawa 4-10-18, Wing Takanawa West 2F. Open 5-11:30pm (3-11:30pm Sat/Sun) daily.
!!Ryugin (Roppongi - Kaiseki). 3423-8006
Chef Seiji Yamamoto does a very impressive take on experimental cuisine from a Japanese perspective, with eye-openers like edamame foam with pulverized ice cream and foie gras with figs. Eleven-course prix-fixe menus run Y15,750, Y21,000 and Y26,250, and there's a seven-sake selection paired with the food for an extra Y5000.
lateRoppongi 7-17-24, Site Roppongi Bldg 1F. Open 6pm-2am. Closed Sunday.
!L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (Roppongi - French). 5772-7500
"New-style French dining" in a very stylish dining room. The food is first-rate and the ambience is casual, with all counter seating. The focus of attention is the open kitchen space on the other side of the counter - a performance space really - where the chefs go about their work. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SundecorRiedel glassesRoppongi Hills, Hillside 220. Open 11:30am-2:30, 6-10pm (LO) daily.
!Roti (Roppongi - International). 5785-3671
Superb, inventive American cuisine from noted Tokyo chef Ian Tozer, built around a deceptively casual menu. The dining room is pleasantly smoke-free, and there's outdoor patio seating when the weather permits. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunRoppongi 6-6-9, Piramide Bldg. 1F. Open 11am-2, 6-10:30pm (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Roppongi - Italian). 3478-0222
Inexpensive pastas and late-night hours.
SunlateRoppongi 4-11-13. Open 11:30-5am daily.
R Burger (Roppongi - Sandwiches/burgers). 6805-3119
This upscale fast-food shops offers unusual burgers like maguro with wasabi dressing and chicken with ume and shiso. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunRoppongi 4-9-8. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Zest (Roppongi - Tex-Mex). 5570-6999
Crowd-pleasing California-style Mexican in a casual atmosphere.
SunlateRoppongi 5-18-19. Open 11:30-5am daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Azabu-Juban - World cuisine). 5775-6900
Eclectic Asian cuisine and a lively atmosphere.
SunlatedecorAzabu-Juban 1-7-5, Festa Azabu 6F. Open 11:30-5am daily.
La Boheme (Azabu-Juban - Italian). 6400-3060
Inexpensive pastas and Italian wines by the glass, with convenient late-night hours.
SunlateAzabu-Juban 2-3-7. Open 11:30am-5am daily.
Ricos Azabu (Akabanebashi - International). 3588-8777
Confident American cuisine and an excellent California wine list.
SunHigashi-Azabu 1-20-3. Open 11:30am-2, 6-10pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Nirvanam (Kamiyacho - Indian). 3433-1217
Nirvanam specializes in southern Indian food (the owner is from Kerala), with a lot of fish dishes.
Toranomon 3-19-7. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-10:30pm. Closed Sundays.
Brasserie Paul Bocuse Musee (Nogizaka - French). 5770-8161
This stunning venture from the Hiramatsu group and the famous French chef Paul Bocuse occupies one of the most spectacular public spaces in Tokyo, inside the new national art gallery. Three-course prix-fixe lunch is Y1800; in the evening a la carte mains average around Y2700.
SunRoppongi 7-22-2, Kokuritsu Shin-Bijutsukan 3F. Open 11am-9pm (LO; lunch -2pm). Closed Tuesdays.
Jangara Ramen (Akasaka - Ramen). 3595-2130
Famous Kyushu ramen; kakuni (Chinese-style stewed pork) is one of their specialties, and helps explain the long lines at lunchtime.
Nagatacho 2-12-8, 1F. (on the east side of Sotobori-dori) Open 11-1am (Fri. to 3am). Closed weekends.
Kikunoi (Akasaka - Kaiseki). 3568-6055
Third-generation kaiseki chef (and sometime TV celeb) Yoshihiro Murata is known for his innovative approach to kaiseki cuisine, drawing on French cooking techniques and ingredients. He has two branches in Kyoto, but this is his first Tokyo venture. Full-blown kaiseki service starts at Y15,750.
Akasaka 6-13-8. Open 5-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
E-street Bagels (Toranomon - Sandwiches/deli). 5521-1361
An unassuming little sandwich shop in the middle of the Toranomon office district. The menu includes bagel sandwiches, salads, quiche and frozen yogurt, and everything is available to go. Bagels are Y150, and sandwiches start at Y520. No smoking.
Nishi-Shimbashi 1-23-9. (on Karasumori-dori five minutes south of Toranomon, or ten minutes west of JR Shimbashi station.) Open 8am-7pm. Closed Sundays.
!Tateru Yoshino (Shiodome - French). 6252-1155
Modern French cuisine from chef Tateru Yoshino, formerly of the Michelin-starred Stella Maris in Paris. The menu includes dishes like risotto of watercress with frogs legs; carpaccio of Canadian shrimp with corn ice cream; duck foie gras with crystalized eggplant in cacao sauce; and roast lamb with pumpkin puree. The attached wine bar offers cheaper a la carte options and very late hours for this office neighborhood. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunHigashi-Shimbashi 1-7-1, Park Hotel Tokyo 25F. Open 7-10:30am, 11:30-2pm, 6-9pm (LO) daily.
Les Saisons (Yurakucho - French). 3539-8087
Lavish contemporary and traditional French fare in a luxurious setting here in the Imperial Hotel's flagship French restaurant. Chef Thierry Voisin, formerly of Michelin two-star Les Crayeres in Rheims, mans the kitchen. Breakfast starts at Y3465, lunch at Y5775, and dinner at Y12,600.
SunUchisaiwaicho 1-1-1, Imperial Hotel Mezzanine. Open 7-10am, 11:30am-2:30, 5:30-10pm daily.
Club of Famous Curry Diners (Yurakucho - Curry). 3211-0616
Five famous Japanese curry shops have gotten together to create this tiny 15-seat counter. Try them all - for Y2500 you can get a set of curries from all five shops, or you can order individual curries for around Y1000 each. (The collaborating shops are Ethiopia, Delhi, Topca, Dom Pierre, and Hongou Petit Feu.)
SunYurakucho 2-7-1, Yurakucho Itocia Plaza B1F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Gompachi (Ginza - Japanese). 5524-3641
Simple, well-prepared Japanese standards, including grilled chicken, in a lively atmosphere.
SunGinza 1-2-3. (under the highway, across from Seiyo Hotel) Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
La Boheme (G-Zone) (Ginza - Italian). 5524-3616
Inexpensive pastas, cheap Italian wines, late-night hours.
SunlateGinza 1-2-3. (under the highway, across from Seiyo Hotel) Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Zest (Ginza - Tex-Mex). 5524-3621
Good solid food from the Tex side of the Tex-Mex border, with colorful frozen and non-frozen margaritas.
SunlateGinza 1-2-3. (under the highway, across from Seiyo Hotel) Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Brasserie Paul Bocuse Ginza (Ginza - French). 5159-0321
The third Tokyo restaurant from Lyon-based celeb-chef Paul Bocuse offers prix-fixe dinners from Y5500-9500. Wines are Y5000-250,000, with less scarily priced options by the glass or carafe. The impressively large dining room has a curved wall of windows overlooking Ginza to the south.
SunGinza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 10F. Open 11am-2:30, 5:30-9pm (LO) daily.
Miravile Impakt (Ginza - Cafe). 5524-0417
This outpost of the popular Miravile restaurant in Komaba specializes in desserts - with an Y1890 three-course menu (starter dessert with tea, main platter of two desserts with tea, final dessert plus tea or coffee) and a Y2980 version that includes drinks. The decor is elegant and casual - boldly colored graphics on the walls, burnt-orange stools at a wide counter plus a few small tables along the wall.
SunGinza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 10F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Raffles Terrace (Ginza - Singaporean). 3563-0151
Raffles is a good place to sample some of Singapore's favorite national dishes - Hainan chicken rice, laksa noodle soup, fish head curry, chili crab, fried carrot cake, roti prata, rojak and many more. The decor is cafe-style Colonial-era retro - white marble tables, dark brown wooden chairs, and a two-meter-high white lion guarding the entrance. Prix-fixe dinners are Y3800-6500 (plus many a la carte options); lunch is Y1200-1400.
SunGinza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 11F. Open 11am-2:30, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
Vietnam Alice (Ginza - Vietnamese). 5250-0801
Refined Vietnamese classics from the chef behind the upscale Queen Alice restaurants. Try the desserts recommended by their "vegetable sommelier"! Budget around Y4000 for dinner.
SunGinza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 11F. Open 11am-10pm (LO) daily.
Hitsumabushi Nagoya Bincho (Ginza - Unagi). 5159-0231
This first Tokyo branch of a famous Nagoya shop prepares eel that's grilled over bincho charcoal and served with their own special Nagoya-style tamari sauce. Lunch and dinner sets are Y1900-3800; there are also other eel and side dish options and a better-than-average sake selection.
SunGinza 2-2-14, Marronnier Gate 12F. Open 11am-3, 5-10pm (LO) daily.
Dazzle (Ginza - International). 5159-0991
The immodestly named Dazzle is one of Tokyo's flashiest restaurants, with futuristic lighting and a theatrical entrance - the elevator deposits you in the middle of the kitchen, after which you take a second ride to the glitzy dining room. The food is entertainingly fusionesque, and is accompanied by wines from France, Italy, Spain, Australia, America and Japan, starting in the Y5000 range. Budget around Y6,000-9,000 per person before drinks.
SundecorGinza 2-4-12, Mikimoto Ginza 2, 8/9F. Open 5:30-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Beige (Ginza - Expensive French). 5159-5500
Master chef Alain Ducasse's joint venture with Chanel provides excellent modern French cuisine in a lovely setting. The food isn't quite as spectacular as the prices though - mains average Y8000-9000, with prix-fixe dinner menus from Y17,000. Lunches start at Y6000 (for a three-course vegetarian menu), and there are a few wines under Y10,000. There's also a popular afternoon tea set (Y2600) served from 2:30-4pm.
SundecorGinza 3-5-3, Chanel Building 10F. Open 11:30-2:30, 2:30-4 (tea), 6-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Mariage Freres (Ginza - Tea shop). 3572-1854
With 450 varieties of world teas from 32 countries, Mariage Freres in Ginza offers the tea aficionado a rare combination of elegance, atmosphere and quality. Only the "finest harvests" are offered to complement an excellent selection of light meals and sinful desserts. Non-smoking.
Ginza 5-6-6. Open noon-8pm.
La Boheme (Ginza - Italian). 3572-5005
Inexpensive pastas and Italian wines by the glass, with convenient late-night service.
SunlateGinza 6-4-1, Tokaido Ginza Bldg B1F. Open 11:30am-5am daily.
Jangara Ramen (Ginza - Ramen). 3289-2307
A famous Kyushu ramen shop where people often line up to get in.
SunlateGinza 7-11-10, New Ginza Bldg. Open 10:45am-1:30am daily.
L'Osier (Ginza - Expensive French). 3571-6050
World-class French cuisine from MOF master chef Jacques Borie in an elegant modern dining room. Highlights include the roast suckling lamb and the enormous cheese selection. Prix-fixe lunch from Y6200, dinner from Y16,000; a la carte mains Y6200-9800. Reserve well in advance.
Ginza 7-5-5. Open noon-2:30, 6-9:30pm. Closed Sundays.
!!Kyubei (Ginza - Sushi). 3571-6523
Some of the finest sushi in the land, from the inventors of gunkan-maki (the wrap-around technique for fish roe and similar sushi). Lunches start at Y4000 for a nigiri set menu, or Y8000 for omakase. Dinners from Y10,000, with a Y30,000 kaiseki sushi course that's quite a spectacle.
Ginza 8-7-6. Open 11:30am-2, 5-10pm. Closed Sundays.
Hachinoya (Higashi-Ginza - Curry). 3547-0810
The first branch of a legendary Japanese curry shop in Sasebo, Nagasaki, that's been going strong since 1951. Beef, chicken and vegetable curries and "hayashi rice" are Y700 each. The small, counter-only shop is no smoking.
SunGinza 4-12-7, B1F. Open 11am-8:30pm (LO) daily.
Mother Leaf (Higashi-Ginza - Tea shop). 3545-1631
Mother Leaf brews aromatic teas from five varieties of Sri Lankan tea leaves in a peaceful, smoke-free atmosphere.
SunGinza 5-14-5. Open 11am-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Aroyna Tabeta (Marunouchi - Thai). 5219-6099
All their set menus are Y600, and the atmosphere is just like dropping into some night stall in Bangkok - loud pop music, fantastic cooking aromas, and minimal decor.
SunMarunouchi 3-7-11. (under the Yamanote-sen tracks next to Tokyo International Forum) Open 11am-11pm daily.
Il Ghiottone (Marunouchi - Italian). 5220-2006
This first Tokyo branch of one of Kyoto's best Italian restaurants occupies a small, minimal but elegant dining room facing the street. Dinner is either Y7500 or Y10,000 - chef's omakase menu only - with reasonably priced bottles and half-bottles of Italian wines. Lunch from Y2000.
SunMarunouchi 2-7-3, Tokyo Bldg Tokia 1F. Open 11am-2, 6-9pm (LO) daily.
Kua 'Aina (Marunouchi - Sandwiches/burgers). 5220-2400
Hawaiian-style burgers and sandwiches. The atrium deck is very airy and pleasant, but seating there is limited.
SunMarunouchi 2-4-1, Marunouchi Bldg. 5F. Open 11am-10:30pm (LO) daily.
Au Gout du Jour Nouvelle Ere (Marunouchi - French). 5224-8070
Michelin-starred traditional French dining overlooking Tokyo Station. Prix-fixe lunches are Y3,500-6,000, dinners Y7,000-12,000.
SunMarunouchi 1-5-1, Shin-Marunouchi Bldg 5F. Open 11am-1:30, 6-9:30pm (LO) daily.
Dean & Deluca (Marunouchi - American). 3284-7071
Mostly an all-day cafe/restaurant, although they also have a small deli counter and grocery section with coffees and teas, spices, baked goods, cold cuts, four kinds of smoked salmon, and real dill pickles. Groceries cover the luxury end of the spectrum, with Y1800 jars of pasta sauce and exotic pates.
SunMarunouchi 1-4-5, Mitsubishi Trust Building 1F. Open 7am-11pm daily.
Towers (Kyobashi - Beer bar). 3272-8488
This tiny standup bar always has a number of good Japanese microbrews and international beers on tap. Food is limited to snacks.
Yaesu 2-8-10. Open 5:30-11pm. Closed weekends.
Chez Inno (Kyobashi - Expensive French). 3274-2020
Excellent food, fabulous wines, impressively high prices. Often cited as one of Tokyo's best French restaurants.
Riedel glassesKyobashi 3-2-11, Dai-hyaku Seimei Bldg. 1F. Open 11:30am-2, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
!!Tapas Molecular Bar (Nihonbashi - Experimental). 3270-8188, 0120-806-823
Here inside the Mandarin Hotel's 38th-floor Oriental Lounge, the seven-seat "Tapas Molecular Bar" serves cutting-edge modern cuisine. 21 plates of highly inventive, deconstructivist bite-size morsels are presented over the course of two hours (Y12,000+10%sc). Seatings are at 6 and 8:30pm, and reservations are required.
SunNihonbashi Muromachi 2-1-1, Mandarin Oriental Tokyo 38F. Open 6, 8:30pm daily.
!Maison Cache-Cache (Yotsuya 3-chome - French). 5363-5263
Excellent traditional French cooking in a comfortable, smoke-free dining space reminiscent of a provincial French inn. [See FULL REVIEW.]
Wakaba 2-7, Video Focus Bldg 1F. Open noon-2, 6-10:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Tour d'Argent (Kioicho - Expensive French). 3239-3111
Very good duck from the famous Parisian restaurant. Around Y20,000 per person.
SunRiedel glassesKioicho 4-1, Hotel New Otani 2F. Open 5:30-8pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Healthy Kan (Ichigaya - Japanese/health food). 3263-4023
A tasty assortment of healthy Japanese dishes and excellent Belgian beer.
Rokubancho 4, Asahi Rokubancho Mansion 2F. Open 11:30am-2:30, 4:30-9pm. Closed Sundays.
Le Mange-Tout (Ushigome - French). 3268-5911
A tiny neighborhood hideaway with well-prepared but very conservative and predictable French food. Dinner is Y3,900 or Y5,900, and the wine list starts at Y5,000, with some half-bottles available. Ask them for directions -- it's rather hard to find the first time.
Nandocho 22. (around the corner from Carmine, just off Chuo-dori) Open noon-1:30, 6-9pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Kushi Garden Deli and Cafe (Takebashi - Japanese/health food). 3215-9455
A casual vegetarian/macrobiotic menu.
Hitotsubashi 1-1-1, Palaceside Bldg. 1F. (Above Takebashi station, in the Mainichi Shimbun building.) Open 11am-9:30pm (LO). Closed Sundays.
Kayu Santin (Ueno - Chinese). 5826-5871
Who would have guessed there were so many kinds of rice gruel! Prices start at Y550 a bowl, with toppings of the month a bit extra. Take-out is available.
SunUeno 7-1-1, Atre 1F. Open 11am-11:30pm daily.
!Gompachi (Daiba - Izakaya). 3599-4807
Inside Glien Passage, the theme-park-extravaganza restaurant complex in Aquacity, Gompachi offers a straight-ahead robatayaki menu - yakitori, grilled fish, assorted side dishes and a handful of soba variations to round things out. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SundecorDaiba 1-7-1, Mediage 4F (Aquacity Odaiba). Open 5:30pm-1am (LO) daily.
La Boheme (Daiba - Italian). 3599-4801
Late-night pastas and Italian wines.
SunlateDaiba 1-7-1, Mediage 4F (Aquacity Odaiba). Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
Monsoon Cafe (Daiba - World cuisine). 3599-4805
Assorted southeast Asian dishes and a large bar.
SunlateDaiba 1-7-1, Mediage 4F (Aquacity Odaiba). Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Zest (Daiba - Tex-Mex). 3599-4803
Dependable late-night Tex-Mex food and fun decor.
SunlatedecorDaiba 1-7-1, Mediage 4F (Aquacity Odaiba). Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Honmura-an (Ogikubo - Soba/Udon). 3390-0325
First-class soba -- they also had a very popular branch in New York City's Soho neighborhood.
SunKami-Ogi 2-7-11. Open 11am-8:30pm. Closed Tuesdays, 3rd Monday.
Guruppe (Ogikubo - Japanese/health food). 3393-1224
Various Japanese-style vegetarian and health-food-oriented dishes. There's a fairly large organic fruit and vegetable shop downstairs. No smoking.
Ogikubo 5-27-5. Open 11:30am-2, 5:30-9:30pm. Closed Sundays.
!Mu-hung (Nishi-Ogikubo - Singaporean). 3394-9191
A comfortable smoke-free cafe that serves good Singapore-style chicken rice, although unfortunately they only serve it with fragrant jasmine rice on the 10th, 20th and 30th of each month; you get regular rice the rest of the time. Other dishes include very good Malaysian curries with excellent fried roti (bread), and other Malaysian/Singaporean specialties. There's a tiny art gallery located right next door.
SunNishi-Ogi-Kita 3-21-2. Open 11am-9:30pm. Closed Tuesdays.
!Leroux (Yoyogi-Koen - French). 3467-1247
French biologique wines and gorgeous seasonal vegetables are the highlights here, with prix-fixe dinners starting at Y3500. Both all-vegetable and meat and fish options are available. [See FULL REVIEW.]
SunTomigaya 1-16-3. Open 11:30am-2, 6-11pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Gatemo Tabum (Yoyogi-Uehara - Bhutanese). 3466-9590
A tiny cafe with a limited menu of four Bhutanese stews with rice, including a fiery version of ema datshi, a cheese and chili stew that's Bhutan's national dish. The other stews (pork and daikon, chicken, potato-cheese) are milder, and you can opt for a two-stew combo plate for Y900. There are also a few salads, fried tofu, and a tasty "Indian snack mix" with chopped vegetables and Masala spice. The drinks menu offers Edelpils beer on tap, German and Chilean wines, and Bhutanese rum, whisky, and teas. Classical music plays in the background, and the cafe is entirely non-smoking, just like Bhutan itself.
SunUehara 1-22-5. (on Uehara-Ginza shopping street between Inokashira-dori and the post office) Open 6pm-midnight daily.
!Zest (Ikejiri-Ohashi - Tex-Mex). 5486-0321
California-style Mexican in a fun setting.
SunlatedecorIkejiri 3-29-4. Open 11:30-5am daily.
La Boheme (Ikejiri-Ohashi - Italian). 5486-1021
Inexpensive, competently prepared pastas and other dishes that are very popular with a young, local crowd.
SunlateIkejiri 1-9-11. Open 11:30am-3am (LO) daily.
!Giang's (Futago-tamagawa - Vietnamese). 3700-2475
A gem of a restaurant, with authentic food and good prices. There's also a good stock of Vietnamese beer and French wines. The shop is run by a Vietnamese family, and the chef used to teach Vietnamese cooking in Tokyo.
SunTamagawa 3-5-7, Kurokawa Bldg. 3F. Open 5-10:30pm. Closed Mondays.
Monsoon Cafe (Jiyugaoka - World cuisine). 5726-1366
An interesting assortment of Asian dishes from Thailand, Vietnam, Indonesia and China are served all day and night (until 5am) at this branch of the casual "ethnic-style" izakaya chain.
SunlateJiyugaoka 1-26-4, Stella Jiyugaoka B1F. (3 min. from Jiyugaoka station) Open 11:30-3am (LO) daily.
Aoi Papaiya (Du Du Xahn) (Jujo (Saikyo-sen) - Vietnamese). 3905-8838
Authentic Vietnamese fare prepared by Ms. Tran Thi Ha, the owner/chef. Green papaya salad is their specialty and namesake.
SunKita-ku, Jujonakahara 1-1-7, No. 3 Hokusei Building. Open 5-9:30pm (LO). Closed Mondays.
Il Pinolo Levita (Yokohama Sta. - Italian). 045-465-5984
The prix-fixe menus here (Y4000, Y5800) let you mix and match from a big list of pastas, starters and main dishes while you enjoy the impressive nighttime view. Set lunches are Y2500 to Y7000.
SunTakashima 2-18-1, Yokohama Sogo 10F. Open 11am-11pm daily.
Dog Garden Cafe (Yokohama Minato-mirai - Cafe). 045-222-5199
Yet another cafe where you can bring your pet; this one also carries a full line of canine fashion and grooming items. The dog menu includes items like pate, pork and beans, and bean risotto.
SunMinato-mirai 2-2-1, Landmark Plaza 1F. Open 11am-8pm daily.
See no-smoking restaurant map.
Updated 2008/04/28